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About Matthew

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  1. I want to install a Bimini for the "aft" portion of my boat that is from the Radar Arch back however I am having a hard time finding any that are pre-made or how to go about getting on made. Any suggestions?
  2. At the boat show I noticed a number of the newer boats are now coming with Propane stove and I would really love to swap mine out. We've got the Chaparral standard single burner Kenyon Alcohol/Electric model and does anyone know of an easy make/model to swap that is propane and fits in the placement space? Here is the Kenyon burner for reference:
  3. Before I ask the question let me state upfront that while I don't generally make a habit of breaking the law, I don't believe in ignorance of one's rights..... There doesn't seem to be a clear answer if Maritime & Admiralty authority extends to local (non-federal) law enforcement. I understand it does apply to federal law enforcement such as coast guard, etc. My main question is around the right to board a vessel without cause by police say on a Lake or River. While a person could fight a violation of the fourth amendment after the fact, does anyone know if they actually have the right, without cause to board?
  4. I have a 2005 240 Signature and need a boat cover for the winter that doesn't require tie-downs since this will be in the drystack and sometimes for a couple of weeks for morrage in spring/fall. Lots of choices for trailerable covers but I need something that doesn't have tie-downs since the drystack bay is well above where I could get to it. Anyone have any suggestions?
  5. My Starter Battery is aging and doesn't hold a charge very well anymore and I am needing to replace it. Before I do a like swap of what is in place, is there a method to determine the minimum size requirement for my 5.0 GXI-E Volvo Penta engine? Also any thoughts on if I use purely a Starter Battery or go with a Dual Purpose to compliment my existing house battery would be appreciated.
  6. I have to replace my Volt Meter and your gauges are the same as mine and I was wondering if you knew the Style or "Artwork" number, etc so I can figure out what replacement I need to get?
  7. It will probably have to wait until next Friday when I am back in town and just to be clear: Set Battery switch to #1, Remove Battery #1 ground and test resistance from what point to what point? Most everything up at the helm is powered off the fuse box under the helm and not the engine. I do recall back in July when I installed my Auto Trim Retractor when I first got the boat a number of wires came off the ignition switch itself. The ATR does to sense off/on to know when to pull up the trim tabs, the fireboy is in part wired via the ignition and I am not sure what else. I suppose maybe I could pull all that stuff too and see if it makes a difference.
  8. 70A Alternator checked fine, Battery Isolator replaced and my reading don't seem to bad and just reading Battery 1 (starter) to make this simpler: Alternator = 14.4v, Isolator... A=13.9v, B1=13.1v, Post Battery Switch = 13.1v, Battery=13.0v, Under Helm Fuse Panel = 12.96v All actually seems fairly good to my eyes however my volt mater at the helm is reading 11.7 which I verified with a meter. As I understand it this wiring comes directly from the engine off the fuse box I think. I was able to pull the F1 fuse and get a 13.0 reading from the block however when I pulled the F2 fuse, the engine died.... Any thought on a process or why I would be getting the drop to the helm?
  9. That was my thinking as well and I'll update this after the weekend and I've got a Newmar 120A Isolator on the way
  10. Well I pulled the alternator and took it to an alternator repair shop and it got a perfect bill of health in output and under load. So my next path is to replace the Isolator. The Volvo Penta shop at my marina thinks the problem is the wiring because of a service bulletin Volvo put out for my model. And if anything other thinner than 6 AWG wiring could cause the voltage drops. Mine looks to be 8 AWG and to replace would be a major project due to how/where the wire is run along the back of the engine. My thought is the proportional voltage drop would point to something else and the wire issue would cause a consistent/steady drop. Anyway, Figured I would post the progress and I'll be getting a 120A Isolator even though the my alternator is rated for 75A and under test output 90A.
  11. So I went down and took some measurements and it wasn't exactly what I expected. The resistance on the cable from the Alternator to the Isolator was 000.1 which I assume means no issue there. The drop of the voltage from the A1 terminal on the isolator to either B1 or B2 was about 0.7 to 0.8 which also seems to be expected. What surprised me was as I drained the batteries by running my inverter the voltage DROPPED at ALL points all the back to the Alternator. This confuses me and I expected the voltage output at the Alternator and at the A1 terminal on the isolator to remain constant at the ~14.2 however it did not. I happen to mention this to the local auto parts store guy who said it sounded like a Voltage Regulator issue and on the since it was a single wire Alternator, it was probably built into the Alternator and hence was why I was seeing the drop end to end. Any perspectives?
  12. I am a bit confused on the wiring between isolator and battery switch and how they interact. To which device does the Alternator actually get directly wired to? My assumption is the Isolator and then the #1 and #2 batteries cables from the isolator go to the battery switch. Is that correct?
  13. Just to clarify when you say "each of those terminals" which are you referring to? Also if you could clarify which the positive versus negative goes to if it isn't clear :-)
  14. Of course thought of checking that AFTER I left the marina so I'll pop back down tonight and a couple of questions. 1) The are three wires on the isolator which I don't see marked or a diagram for and which are which. Bottom = ? Middle = ? Top = ? 2) Any idea what brand or model the thing is?
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