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  1. There is a splined coupling between the upper gear stack/cone clutch and the vertical input shaft to the lower. This splined coupling 88243a3 would be the next thing to check if the engine coupler checks out good. You have to remove the lower unit to access it. A decent amount of time the coupling cracks before damaging the vertical shaft, but not always! Maybe you will get lucky!
  2. You can contact chaparral for a transport data sheet for your hull. It will show where the lifting strakes are and how the boat should be properly supported. Only a few trailer manufacturers do it this way. Which is the correct way!
  3. My bet is the cone clutch for sure. That is the classic symptom. The one thing is, once it does finally get into gear it won't slip out. When you take it apart i'll guarantee you will find pitting on the upper gear set as well. The thrust washer on the double roller bearing will also probably be worn causing loose preload on the bearings...Pretty typical... If you want it perfect prepare for a can of worms! If you want a quick fix you can flip the cone so the worn side is on the reverse gear and also rough it up with sandpaper or lapping compound. Polish up the mating surface in the gear. But
  4. New Trailer is in! Ended up going with a Tennessee trailer with torsion axles. 9990 gvwr and i like the bunk setup. On the other hand...there is a c channel trailmaster 256 ssi trailer now for sale. Pm me for any details!!! https://photos.app.goo.gl/p34TKDqZ8kNJfsybA
  5. I just keep the seals on board and use higher rated skf 6203 bearings with polyurea grease. They seem to be lasting much longer than the oem set so i ordered a spare set!
  6. I use the plates supranut uses after i was experiencing low water pressure and a grooved brass housing years ago. They work fantastic and after 500 hours they started to get grooved a tiny so i just filled them with silver brasing rod. I have over 700 hours on the plates and i replace the impeller every other year.
  7. i use cquartz uk 3.0. There is better stuff but the manufacturers sell exclusive to their installers to eliminate the average guy applying it incorrectly then blaming their product. The newest trend is a silica coating. But it's not universal, there is a special figerglass product vs automotive paint product for silica coatings but they are superior to even ceramic for duration. Where the ceramic is very universal and can be applied to the pourous gelcoat and your car! I even put it on my glass shower doors...counters...kitchen sink haha! Trust me, you will never wax again. The hydrophobic pro
  8. Cyclops, i even put it on the dash and vinyl seats! Works unreal on the non skid floor!
  9. Trust me my dad owns a bod shop...Presta products for fiberglass. Use ultra cutting creme and chroma polish. You need that surface as smooth as possible. Wetsand if you want as well. Any valleys catch the sun and start the oxidation faster. Ceramic spray isnt as strong as true ceramic or silica coatings. Cant beat cquartz for diy application at this point. Silica coatings are just starting to hit the market for pourous fiberglass. Ive used cquartz for years on my boat inside and out. Far far superior to any carnauba or polymer. Only polymer worth a look is rejex.
  10. Ceramic coat the windshield and all you will ever need is a tiny damp rag with water to clean it up in seconds. Nothing sticks, no water spots. Lasts all season!
  11. This was my prestige 220...wasn't a big fan of this trailer. Do you have a pic of your bunk setup brick? Leaf or torsion on yours? https://photos.app.goo.gl/W3so42RGh2bgEzAi9
  12. Just had a long conversation with the owner/designer of tennessee trailers. He says the 6 bunk setup is not necessary and the close center bunks manufacturers used mainly to prevent the hull from hitting the crossmembers. He talked about lifting strake areas on the hull and the two inner bunks on the tennessee setup are tapered 4 inches inward over the length of the 14 ft center bunks. This would help center the boat obviously. They design the trailers so that they are positioned correctly in most ramps when the front of the outer bunks are just protruding above the water line. They have built
  13. dan - i thought the same thing! They called me yesterday asking my status on ordering a trailer. I said i'm questioning that bunk setup with the keel bunks being too close. They said it's super easy but can widen them if i sign off. They advised to get side rails. Told them those are for rookies like bumper bowling, not happening! I do understand it probably gives great support going down the road...but that has to be hard to load! I can't add any more pictures but my prestige 220 ssi trailer had two center bunks that were #%^$&%$ near that close together. And it wasn
  14. here is a link referencing the yellow flag breaker...it's on the engine. Take a peek if you have that or the red button style. You want the red button...
  15. https://tntrailer.com/photos/runabout Can't post any more pics...here is a link to tn trailers photos. There is a good picture of the winch/bow stop post setup. Thanks again for your time and expertise!!!
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