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  1. I know i'll hear backlash but to my ears the jl and wetsounds coaxials sound like absolute crap compared to the same price range non marine speaker. Years ago i tried the first version of wetsounds 6.5 coaxials vs a pair of massive audio ck6 speakers. All ran off a new arc audio high quality amp. It made me yank out the wetsounds and they are still somewhere in the attic! They sounded so bad i even sent them back for warranty thinking something was blown! In a larger bow rider i have ran non marine in boat speakers for years and not one issue. My boat now the previous owner had a set of 4 jl audio 6.5 speakers in there so i decided to leave them in. I added 4 more hybrid audio technology imagine series 6.5's. It exposed the crap sound of the jl's that i had to replace them as well! What they lack greatly is the efficiency of the tweeter. They sound so muffled. I run a 14 band parametric equalizer and i couldn't get them to come alive! But unless you have a high quality speaker right next to it you would probably never know what you are missing! If you want to stay with marine speakers i don't blame you at all because it's definitely the safer choice. I just don't think you are getting much better sound quality for the $ than your typical marine mid grade kicker, polk, jbl etc if setup right. Spend the money on the amp and eq! I do have a set of rev 10's as i think wetsounds has the best hlcd speaker out there. I built brackets so they hang off the railing. I keep them stored under the seat and only set them up as needed. I do not crank them like an idiot. I have them on a separate volume control. I love the fact that the baby can be sleeping in the bow and inside the boat is silent but perfect volume behind the boat! With a sub i do the same thing, I run a non marine single sundown audio sa10 dual 2 ohm in parallel at 1k watts at 1 ohm stable. It's in a ported box tuned to 32 hertz.
  2. You can also cut the engine oil filter open. Cut a section of the media inside and squeeze out the oil. But keep in mind if a fresh rebuild then some metal is expected. This is a normal practice in the heavy equipment industry every time a filter is changed.
  3. Kerpit

    256 ssi/ssx

    i was wondering about the volvo...i'm a heavy equipment mechanic and have rebuilt many alpha and bravo drives. I have never touched a volvo! I'm assuming most of these would be equipped with the volvo dp-a? The bravo impeller is definitely a pain in the butt but i've done it so many times i'm used to it! The worst part is the stupid brass housing the impeller is in that wears! I have heard that the volvo dp is very reliable. Either way i am crazy when it comes to maintenance and pro active repairs! And i'd be a bit nervous diving into a volvo.
  4. Kerpit

    256 ssi/ssx

    Ok great info! So what are the capabilities of the smart craft gauges?
  5. Kerpit

    256 ssi/ssx

    Hi there I am seeking some help with trying to narrow down my next boat. I want to get an 07-09 or so 256. While i am having a hard time deciding on the ssi vs ssx can someone explain exactly the head options. What exactly is the vacu flush toilet and what is the alternate option? Also, i see some have the glass faria round gauges like my current 06 220 ssi and some have the more square multi function gauges. Was this an option or a specific year change? I am being pretty particular that i won't settle for less than a 496 mag. This really narrows down my options but do you think i should stick to that? I have a 350 mag/bravo 1 in my 220 and i can't believe it would be enough for the 256 even with a bravo 3 but i have no experience to validate. Any advise on ssi vs ssx for storage/space besides the obvious seating and wet bar differences. For those of you who have the 256 what options would you recommend i definitely look for? Also, if you know of anyone selling a 256 with a 496 in the midwest please pass it on!!! Thank you for your time! Brian
  6. I had a terrible go around with alignment on my 06 220 ssi 350/bravo. I stripped a coupler in the first 50 hours. Upgraded to a steel coupler and then it vibrated because the steel was much less forgiving vs an aluminum. I ended up getting a plate that fits over the alignment bar and goes up against the bellhousing. As long as the bellhousing hinge pins do not have slop this tool saves a ton of time because it shows you where to move eng vs reading grease marks. Even with a heavy spline grease on the bar its so easy to not pull out the bar perfectly straight. This tool showed me i needed to lift the rear of the engine. I ended up adding shims and replacing the rear mounts while i had eng out. Mercruiser designs the engine to be 13 degrees different from the hulls transom angle. So use a digital protractor as well. My coupler issue was from the u joints not being "in plane" at normal trim. Causing vibration and wearing alum splines. Also remember to turn engine over in 45 degree increments and make sure bar slides in and out with 2 fingers. Tap bar to center gimbal bearing each time too. I had to remove front mounts and egg out the mount holes to allow movement toward starboard. I will post adapter plate tool part number later. The ITS alignment bar is slick too with a slider that goes into the gimbal bearing. Easy to tell if you are spot on!
  7. I cut the access hole larger to the storage compartment in front of port seat. Then just installed new edge trim. Put a sundown sa10 sub in a ported box tuned to 32 hz. I run 1200 watts rms to it at 1 ohm stable and use an audio control epicenter for bass reproduction. I use 3m dual lock to keep the gate folded then dual lock again to keep it open towards the bow. An o ring over the latch stops any rattling. Its crazy loud.
  8. Not sure if you are asking me or 287...but no, you can't move the drive at all side to side. I can see the the center shaft of the rotary helm from the backside and move the wheel. The play is very obvious it is in the rotary helm planetary and not the cable, actuator or linkage at the gimbal ring. The play is before there is any resistance/movement of the cable at the helm end.
  9. Hi There I have an 06 220 ssi and i was noticing some up/down slop in the tilt mechanism late last year. I took it apart this season and found the plastic bearings/bushings were worn and replaced them. That is all good. Curious me i also noticed a decent amount of slop turning the wheel. With a 14" wheel i have about 4.5" of play before the cable starts to move. Doing some research online i have found that any play over 2" it's time to replace the helm? It is a teleflex qcii rotary helm. The play has never bothered me while driving the boat but now that i know it's there i have to fix it haha! Can anyone measure their steering play with a 14" wheel to verify mine has excessive play in the rotary helm gears? I know it's not the coupling between the helm and tilt mechanism. I just had that apart rebuilding the tilt mechanism and made sure the coupling and bolts were tight to the helm post. I fully understand the qcii helm even new has some slop, i just thought 4 inches was excessive but maybe not!? I'd rather not change the helm and cable to the upgraded hps. Hoping for a quick helm replacement to remove most of the slop and go! Thanks for your time! Brian
  10. Pual...looking for a rev 4 not an enertia. Looking on the merc site now i see a 17,18,19 for the rev 4! Wonder what in the #$^% i was looking at? I do see bblades only offers a 17/19, maybe i was looking at that. They recommeded the 19p per my enertia results. I'm going to see if i can find an 18 used. Thanks for the help!
  11. Non eco enertia. If they only made an 18! Lol Only 17 or 19 per merc. Theres two used in my area, a 17 and 19. Dont feel like buying both haha. If i were to buy new i would just rent to own from bblades, but these are a bit cheaper so i was going to get one of them. Little too cold here for a test run anytime soon in the midwest. Still have one more snowmobile trip planned!
  12. Does anyone have any feedback running a rev 4 prop? If so, what is the norm for pitch vs a 3 blade stainless? I currently run a labbed 20p enertia that reaches peak rpm perfectly and runs 10% slip with light loads. The slip percentage just gets a tad higher than i like (16%-18%) when i have a group of people out and a full tank of gas. So i want to have a 4 blade to throw on for those situations. I'm wondering what pitch would be comparable with a rev 4. 2006 220 ssi 350 mag/bravo 1 1.65 Thanks for your time!
  13. Yes, that's what i was asking is if i should mount the strut top higher to achieve 25 degrees. Which is what i ended up doing. I've had several sets of smart tabs over the years and i just remember the original stainless set specifically showed to set it 25 degrees from the bottom of the hull. With the sx set the instructions just state to let it rest and then attach the top strut bracket. I've had the current set on my 220 for 5 years and i had to replace the 60 lb struts this morning and the angle just seemed crazy and it caught my attention. The strut actually had to #%^$&%$ near be fully compressed in order for the plate to be level or higher than the bottom of the hull. Since the angle is #%^$&%$ near cut in half i'm sure there should be a difference? Gotta water test now i guess! thanks for the help Brian
  14. If i set them to 25 i would be pulling them up about an inch.
  15. I have a question about a smart tab sx installation on a 220 ssi. I am questioning the 25 degree angle in reference to the bottom of the hull that they are supposed to be set to.. The sx plates rest at 25 degrees in reference to the hinge. But the back of the stern is not square to the bottom of the hull. So this results in a 55 degree angle of the smart tab plate to the bottom of the hull. Do i set the top hinge like that or do i set the hull to plate angle at 25 degrees? Thanks for the help Brian
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