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Diverman

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About Diverman

  • Birthday January 3

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    eforslund

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    San Diego, CA

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  1. Search this site for ALL of the prior posts over the last 4-5 years (including ALL of mine) about the XDP drives and what a lot of us did to get rid of them. I was one of the earlier ones to have issues and have them chanced out. And from prior experience, good luck on trying legal action against Volvo unless you are Warren Buffet and have a bunch of lawyers on retainer! I am a second owner of my boat and Volvo would not consider replacing them at no charge. Tried begging and pleading after the hardball and that finally got me somewhere. I signed an agreement to keep the amount confidential but it was FAR below the regular price. I had the U-joint disintegrate in one of the XDPs while underway which the Volvo certified mechanics said should have sunk the boat. Fortunately (and unfortunately) we were able to limp back to the boatyard where two days before they finished completely rebuilding both XDPs due to water ingress which was NOT in any way caused by any lack of servicing or maintenance on our part! That is par for the course for XDPs! Even new bellows will crack without warning and allow sea water into the drives and corrode the internals. Of course Volvo wouldn't pay for any of the $16k that cost us on the rebuild so when everything was said and done, it was still close to the full cost of buying the drives at list price! Ohhhhh... This brings back HORRIBLE memories!!!! GOOD LUCK!!!
  2. Diverman

    Radio Ideas?

    Fusion is coming out with a 750 series (already shown on their web site) which should be shipping in the April/May time frame. Expensive but should be really nice! They also have wired remotes that connect to a NEMA2000 network. In addition to displaying and controlling the stereo functions, the remotes will also display NEMA2000 sensor information. I have never seen another system with these capabilities.
  3. I bought a new steering wheel for my dinghy and removed the old one with one 3/4" nut. All was good until I tried to remove the hub. No luck. I tried two large screwdrivers under on both sides of it prying up at the same time. It didn't even budge. Is there some other way to get it off I don't see or is it just stuck on by corrosion? Either way, any ideas to remove it without breaking anything? My first choice would be to just leave it on but my new wheel (pictured) has a keyed hub on it. The existing hub looks to be keyed on the inside and splined on the outside so not sure what to call it. If I could find a splined adapter to a six bolt pattern attachment to the wheel I could just remove the hub from the new wheel and bolt on the adapter. But does this even exist? This is the first time I have ever replaced a wheel and I am so darn confused! ANY help would be most appreciated with either option!!!
  4. I have stayed a couple times at the Speakeasy Inn (speakeasyinn.com) on upper Duval Street. Close enough to the action down Duval but far enough to enjoy some relative quiet and relax a bit. It is a pretty small but quite nice place to stay. Not sure what pricing and availability are like as it has been 4-5 years since I have stayed there.
  5. I have checked most of the connections and replaced the windlass solenoid with no change to its operation. The breaker seems to work fine. Trips every time I use the up button but as mentioned, everything runs fin when running down the anchor. I would have though the wiring would be the culprit because the windlass acts like it is not getting juice but that makes no sense as it works fine the other direction and uses the same wires (solenoid reverses the positive and negative lines to control direction of the motor) for both directions. As Cyclops2 said, it sounds like the windlass is just wearing out. The windlass is about 10 years old and looks like a fairly cheap one though not undersized. I am also very careful to not use the windlass improperly- just think maybe it's old age and poor quality? I don't remember even seeing the manufacturer on the unit when I took it out about 4 years ago to weld a piece back onto it that broke off the housing. I figured if the weld held for a year I was doing well but got 4 years out of it instead. So I think the question comes down to Lewmar, Maxwell or ???. Want to stay south of 1,200 and pretty sure I have 5/16" chain (need to verify again- has been a few years) and it needs to be a horizontal model (unfortunately the opposite of Denny's). I am thinking seriously about the Maxwell HRC-8 but need suggestions on recommended makes-models!
  6. Sorry for the double-post guys! When I posted the windlass question yesterday it errored out when I hit post. Just assumed it didn't actually post and that I lost all of my typing. So I posted this tonight and it errored out again. Much to my surprise, it actually went through- twice! And thanks for all the responses to either of my posts!
  7. A few weeks ago, we anchored out for the night. I put the anchor down without any issues at all but when I hit the switch to pull it up, the windlass just whined, moved sluggishly, stopped and tripped the breaker. I tried it with not chain/rope (no load) on the unit and it still worked fine going down and did the same going up. Still hardly ran and stopped. Would then just click when I would hit the switch and would finally trip the breaker again. Sometimes I could get it to run a little bit, hit the down button and then the up again and it would briefly run slowly a little bit more. At first I had though it must be in the wiring but checked most of the connections with no improvement. I then replaced the windlass solenoid and that made absolutely no difference as well. Why would it run fine going down then have so many problems when running up? Though I have a few more things to check in the windlass circuit, I am highly suspecting the windlass itself. One of my boat neighbors said he had a similar problem with his, so pulled it out an had it opened and greased/oiled and it work fine thereafter. Considering it doesn't look like that good of a windlass (looks like an old and cheap model Lewmar) and is almost 10 years old, I am considering replacing it but don't want to unless I really need to. So... Has anyone had any similar issues with their windlass and what have you done to fix it? I have also checked into the Lewmar Pro Fish series but have read some REALLY bad reviews. Has anyone had any experience with that or similar horizontal Lewmar windlass units? I have also looked into a Maxwell HRC-8 that looks pretty nice with some nice features and I found for a lower price than the Lewmar Pro Fish. Any thoughts on the Maxwell or any other brands in the 1k to 1,300 range that you would recommend? Thanks for the help!
  8. My windlass has no problem letting out rope/chain but when I try to pull it up, it barely turns, stops and the circuit breaker pops. It sounds like a corroded connection as it just has a slow whine as it barely moves but I have replaced the windlass solenoid and checked most of the connections in the circuit. Also, it goes down as I mentioned without a problem. Has anyone had a similar issue with their windlass and was it the unit itself? Also, I was looking into the Lewmar Pro Fish series and found quite a few pretty bad reviews so I am pretty wary going that route. I have now been looking into Maxwell HRC-8 and was wondering if anyone has had experience with it? Any other horizontal windlasses you guys recommend?
  9. I got down to the boat tonight around 8pm for a relaxing weekend on the water. I have the full bimini and glass on for the winter. As I step into the cockpit I smell the overwhelming smell of stale urine and think to myself that maybe the waste tank was getting fairly full (thought it was about 2/3 or so when I looked last weekend) and made a mental note to go pump out at the dock tomorrow. I get in the cabin and the smell is even stronger and I am getting concerned. It never smelled this bad even when my tank was quite full. I walked into the head and looked around and everything looked ok... Then I looked at the holding tank gauge and it read... empty... Oh SH%T!!! My stomach sunk. I got my flashlight and fearfully opened the floor hatch in the cabin that goes to the fore/mid bilge area and sure enough it was filled will nasty dark liquid up to the pump level. I go back and open the engine hatch enough to squeeze in (can't go higher with the glass panels on the back) and sure enough my engine bilge area is up to pump level with the same foul liquid. I am thinking the worst at this point; is my waste tank leaking or the hoses connecting to it???? After a little more inspection, I spotted the liquid running down from the front-most part of the starboard side of the engine compartment all the way back to the transom. Some of it had dried up so it looks like this may have been going on since I left last weekend. I trace the wetness to the area near the waste vacuum system and that looks ok. Then to the waste hoses and notice some wetness at the base of the macerator pump. I am HOPING it is that stupid #%^$&%$ pump! I had a friend have two of them fail so I know that isn't unheard of. Going to check it out tomorrow and figure how I drain 15-20 gallons of waste (I am pretty careful to make sure no-one goes #2 on the boat and very thankful for that) out of my boat and get that smell out! Ohhhh happy Friday!
  10. This is absolutely ridiculous and is offensive to those of us who have had real and reoccurring problems with XDP drives! Have you ever had XDP drives? Are you a Volvo certified mechanic? Have you even read the plethora of information available from owners, mechanics (even certified Volvo mechanics) and even from Boat U.S? You are hitting a very sore nerve for those of us who have had MANY issues with these drives though we have ALWAYS done ALL of the required maintenance and only used our drives in the manner they were designed for- yet still we have had repeated failures! At least do your research before you venture your opinion! I now relinquish my soapbox...
  11. Wow! That is terrible to hear! As I am an owner of a 2004, 330 it also is a little disconcerting to me as well. Several times I have wondered what would need to be done to remove my gas tank if there was ever a problem and I'd try to put it out of my mind thinking I should never have a problem with a metal tank anyway... Um. Guess I was wrong... Please keep us apprised of what has to be done and if it isn't too painful for you, some pictures would be very interesting and informative for us if you can.
  12. Actually, my boat is WAY less constrained than my car is for power! I have a 400Ah house battery bank and 00 (2/0) gauge wires running to three high power JL amplifiers with a total of about 2300 real watts (divided into multiple channels into the cabin and out to the cockpit of course). I know this is not the norm but I don't see why you can't run any speakers of your preference. DO NOT throw away your JLs as they are quality speakers and 3db difference in output is not going to be an issue. The important part is providing any speaker not only with ample power but ample CLEAN power. This starts with a reasonable power source (aka battery), proper gauge cabling and quality amplifiers not to mention a good head unit. Your JLs will sound fantastic if you have done all of this and so will Polks and other quality brands!
  13. I just wanted to bring this topic back once more as I have not been able to find any info on these sensors anywhere else, especially as a Ocean X retrofit. Thank you very much to anyone who can help!
  14. I am pretty sure the XDP props will fit the Ocean X. When Volvo finally "took care" of me and replaced the XDPs they refused to give me new props and said either I would have to purchase them or have my boat yard put on my old props. I opted for the latter due to the amount of deer I was already out because of my dear friends at Volvo and have been running the XDP props since then. I REALLY do wish they would not have worked and I could have gotten a new set "thrown in".
  15. I had the Ocean X retrofit done two years ago to replace my XDP drives and I was told there were gear lubricant and water intrusion sensors built in but Volvo had no alarm system except on new/original installations. Does anyone know if there is an OEM or aftermarket alarm system that connects to the sensors? If not, does anyone know where the connectors are located and what type of sensors they (on-off, resistive, etc.) are so I can build one? It is killing me those sensors are in there and not being used especially with all the issues I had with water ingress (and then some) on the XDP drives!
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