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stephenm27

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  1. stephenm27

    Anybody add an arch to their Chap?

    At one time (2008/2009), Jay & Kay Mfg (http://jaykaymfg.com/) manufactured the aluminum arches for the Signatures. There's a good possibility they made the arch for your boat as well. I talked to them once back when I considering hinging my arch and they were very nice/informative. I'm guessing if you call them with your make/model, they'll be able to tell you (probably quicker than you can get to someone knowledgeable down in Nashville).
  2. I apparently cleared out some of my photobucket account awhile back and thus the dead links in the posts. I'm trying to find them and repost them... In the meantime, yes, all screws were accessible from the inside of the cooler. Do watch out for the rough fiberglass in the area as the lip was rather rough on the underside where the cooler liner was screwed and siliconed. Also, I terminated the drain from the liner by removing the "T" that joins it to the cockpit sink drain line and replaced it with a simple barb coupling (HD or Lowes). This isn't necessary if you're planning on reinstalling the liner, however. And, yes, you can get to the courtesy light easily with the liner out. I changed mine to sealed LED units. As a side benefit, the back light from the courtesy light helps illuminate the storage compartment when you're searching for something in there at night .
  3. Interesting. Our 2008 had the isotherm cockpit fridge hard-wired in an enclosed/sealed junction box. Also, ours did not have the mid-berth receptacle as the factory mid-berth TV was not selected (I later installed a 12VDC model). Generally speaking, receptacles are not allowed in the bilge due to inherent arcing present when inserting/removing the plug. Common sense rules in this area and risk can be mitigated greatly with fume detectors, a reasonable sense of smell, blower use and routine/cautious ER checks. That said, I wouldn't install anything that I know could present an ignition source (even in failure) in a gas bilge...too hard to sleep at night .
  4. You have a (very) different 290...pre-2010 290 is a much different layout than post-2009.
  5. The foot of the mid-berth area will not provide easy access to this area. There are no panels to remove (it is a fixed wall). Your best route is to remove the under-seat cooler liner (silicone + screws) above this area and you will have area access to the route your need. Cables can be run along the port-side hull wall through to the interior of the cabin. Removal of the cockpit fridge won't get you as far forward you want to go. Once I removed the cooler liner, I never replaced it, built a shelf in the area and tripled the cockpit storage. There's a thread on here somewhere w/ pics showing same. Hope this helps...
  6. stephenm27

    Lewis Smith Lake AL anyone?

    Beautiful lake. Parents owned a lake house there until last year. Even on busy holiday weekends, nowhere near as busy/dangerous as Lanier (for a comparison). Very clear water. Lots of undeveloped shoreline off main channel of lake.
  7. stephenm27

    Thoughts on a Chaparral 330 signature.

    I realize this. My comments were strictly referring to the comparison of the the SR 340 and Chap 330 posted in pics by Hatem .
  8. stephenm27

    Electric over Hydraulic Brake Module - Suggestions

    20K lb-rated 2 5/16" ball on mine.
  9. stephenm27

    Thoughts on a Chaparral 330 signature.

    The SR 340 is 37' 6" boat with a 12' beam weighing approx 15K lbs. The Chap 330 is a 33' boat with a 10' beam weighing about 12K lbs. Most probably wouldn't consider them "equals" due to these disparities in size/weight. Regarding design differences, the 340 in that incarnation was introduced in 2003 whereas the Chap 330 was intro'ed in 2010--that's a lifetime in boat design. The SR 340 has since been discontinued (in 2008) and was replaced with the current 330 Sundancer (33' LOA). When deciding to change boats, we seriously evaluated the Chap 310 and 330. Unfortunately, we found they both had effectively less interior space than our 2008 Chap 290 (31' LOA), mostly due to the centerline-oriented front berth. It was also concerning that Chap began to retool to better address the non-sport cruiser market, eliminating all larger cruisers from their lineup (350, 370, 420). So, we began to evaluate other manufacturers' offerings...
  10. stephenm27

    Thoughts on a Chaparral 330 signature.

    For Sea Ray, Axius made it's "widespread availability" in 2009. I'm not sure when it became available in Chaparral models, but it would be after that, probably 2010 given the competitive angle (Sea Ray == Brunswick == Mercruiser).
  11. stephenm27

    Thoughts on a Chaparral 330 signature.

    Chaparral production using v-drives appears to have been minimal. I think I saw one or two during a pretty exhaustive search a year or so ago. Can't say why though...
  12. stephenm27

    Thoughts on a Chaparral 330 signature.

    No--I specifically wanted Axius (joystick) so v-drives weren't a consideration. We boat exclusively in freshwater else Axius would not have been a realistic consideration. The only downside to v-drives that I can offer is the accessibility in the engine rooms--it's extremely cramped due to the reversed engine orientation/transmission location. In the 'dancers, it also results in the generator being put at the transom (vs forward bulkhead with stern drives). If you do your own maintenance, this might matter. Not so much otherwise. If you're in salt water, having just a prop/strut/shaft exposed to the corrosive elements is unbeatable.
  13. stephenm27

    Thoughts on a Chaparral 330 signature.

    Welcome to the forum. Difficult decision you're trying to make... I have owned a (new) 2008 290 Chaparral and now own a (pre-loved) 2009 310 Sundancer. It's difficult to be objective in such a comparison, but I have noted some interesting differences. Overally, the build quality appears somewhat equivalent. The SR has "planned access" to components that aren't easily accessible (e.g. bow stanchion backing plates, etc). My Chaparral appeared, at times, to be built around the installed equipment (e.g. A/C unit) making it difficult/impossible to service/replace items as necessary. I had zero quality issues with my Chaparral. It certainly had minor issues here and there, usually with other manufacturer's equipment (e.g. fresh water pump, etc), but nothing that reflected on how the boat was built. In my limited time with the Sundancer so far, I have noted that wiring organization/design in the boat far exceeds what I encountered in my Chaparral. This matters to some and none to others, but for those who have upgraded a stereo, tried to add a breaker in the panel, etc, on a Chaparral, they know the "wiring nest of #$^%" that I'm referring to. In contrast, on the SR, I found labeled (with a printed label no less) buss bars, neatly loomed wiring installed in a thoughtful/organized manner. I didn't buy the SR because of this but found it later as I combed through the boat's internals. Also, the SR came complete with both printed and pdf schematics of the entire boat (all harnesses) as well as OEM pdf manuals of all onboard equipment. The best I recall from Chaparral was the online parts brochure (ie no electrical schematics, etc). Chaparral includes the (expensive) sound shield as part of the generator option. No such luck on the SR. Chaparral's battery layout/switch design (ie dedicated house circuit, starting batt per eng) is superior to the SR (4 batts, 2 for some stuff, 2 for the rest, shared w/ starting needs). So, all in all, for me, it was a layout-driven decision primarily but now that I have a SR product in hand, I see some differences between the products...each manufacturer excels at different disciplines and targeting different boating demographics. hope this helps/happy to answer any questions...
  14. stephenm27

    Electric over Hydraulic Brake Module - Suggestions

    If you look closely, you can make out the bolt heads through the slide mechanism (partly obscured by the safety chains). You can also see the Dexter unit. (Please excuse the distracting background--that's my storage neighbor )
  15. stephenm27

    Electric over Hydraulic Brake Module - Suggestions

    I converted to EoH using this same Dexter unit. I did not replace my coupler--but pinned it using suitable hardware. Controlled by the integrated brake controller in the F250. We are routinely towing ~16.5K lbs and it's never failed me (and has saved me several times). Easy install if you are at all comfortable with hand tools/trailer wiring.
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