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    Lake Huron - Alpena, MI

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  1. So now should the Port and Starboard ECM's be swapped side to side? That would confirm an IAC command from ECM issue.
  2. Question for you SST, are you working on a level boat? When mine is floating in the Lake on a calm day I use a 2 foot level and a small shim to get the level to read in the middle of the bubble, on the floor Then when I'm at home working on it during the off season, I can repeat the process, using the tongue jack, with the level and shim at the same spot on the floor. Now the oil level and everything else is just like on the Lake. Perhaps this is why the oil level is off compared to the oil capacity.
  3. Did the hose fall off from your siphon pump and into the tank? Or are you talking about knocking off a hose already inside the fuel tank? If it's just and extra hose from your siphon pump rolling around inside the fuel tank, I would not be concerned.
  4. Iaceun, you might try U Tube "12 volt test light". There is one 6 minute tutorial that's pretty good and shows basic use of the tool.
  5. Another Great call by Wingnut!
  6. Toddler, are you not boating any longer?
  7. Good time to get a 12 volt test light or a DVOM. By testing for power at the back of the ignition switch you could verify battery power to the switch. Next, as you turn the key to the ON position, you could verify power going to the ignition system. Finally, as you twist the key to the CRANK position you could verify power going to the starter system. This process is sometimes referred to as Test Don't Guess. Avoids throwing parts at a problem. Gets to the Root Cause.
  8. If it's been that long since those components have been changed, you may have actually fixed a problem. Think about a couple of spark plugs that aren't firing or a plug wire that is open and not performing up to par every time. My guess is that if you were to put all the old components back in place, you would see the rpm go back down. I'll bet the engine is running smoother now with the new components.
  9. This is the method I use for tightening wheel bearings after repacking them. Use a wrench or pliers to snug the nut while spinning the hub by hand. How tight? About as tight as you put a spark plug in. This is called seating or preloading the wheel bearings. If you leave the nut in this position the bearings will be too tight and will fail. So the final tightening is to back off from the preload till the nut is just loose. Now use your hand only and turn the nut finger tight. No tools on the nut. If the cotter pin slot and the axle hole line up you're all set. If they don't line up I turn the nut a bit more till they do.
  10. A tip for towing and launching. When I get to the ramp to launch I touch the hub area or use a temp gun. If the temp of the hubs is uncomfortable to touch, say 100 degrees Fahrenheit or more, I let the trailer sit a while to cool down the hubs. Those hot hubs and associated parts don't do well when submerged into the lake. Cool Lake water can be drawn past the seals and into the hubs. Water and grease don't mix.
  11. No trim tabs or anything added to the hull. Due to the age of our Chap, I've never done a WOT test. I just back her down a bit when she reaches 4,000 revs, at just over 30 mph. I'm an automotive guy, and know too much of what goes on inside an engine at that may revs.
  12. My wife and I own a 1993 205 SL Limited. We use it primarily for fishing on Lake Huron, but it does plane out nicely and easily hits 30 mph on the gps before 4000 rpm. The engine is 4.3 with the Weber 4 barrel. 3 blade aluminum 19 pitch 14.5 diameter prop. 1.84 drive ratio. The weight is 3,260lbs. 4,340 less 1,080 trailer weight. We are happy second owners. Hope this helps.
  13. I bought my Weber 4 bbl. carb rebuild kit from a Mercruiser dealer. Pricey, but perfect. 1993 205 SL with a 4.3 L
  14. On the first run of the season I ask for a radio check. Here in the Great Lakes safe boating is a priority. Our Channel 16 is monitored by the US CoastGuardAlpena and local law enforcement as well.
  15. Does this Thermal circuit breaker automatically reset itself if it gets over heated due to an hi current load passing through it - Once the load is reduced that is? Or is this the style that blows once and stays blown? Carry a spare!
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