SterndriveEd

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Everything posted by SterndriveEd

  1. I would stay away from any tech that says a "short with a ground". There is no such animal. He may be charging you by the hour to chase down a non-existent wiring issue. There can be "open" wires- a broken connection. There can be "grounded" wires-a bare wire touches metal. There can be "shorted" wires-two systems or wires touch each other that are supposed to be separate. Finally a poor connection, due to corrosion, or a loose connection can cause trouble too.
  2. I change oil and filter just before winter lay up. After shutting off the warmed up engine, I use a vacuum pump and a 1/4 inch dia. plastic tube that is longer than the dipstick. I place it down the dipstick tube until it just bottoms out inside of the oil pan. The tubing connections are fitted to a glass jar that holds about a quart. As it nearly fills, I switch to another jar. Repeat until no more oil is being drawn out. Once I pulled the drain plug -after doing this- just to see what was left, and found about a cup of oil. Not too bad when compared to 4 qts. that my 4.3 holds.
  3. Try disconnecting the IAC before you start up. If doing this keeps the engine from revving up to 3000 rpms, then you are getting close to the issue. Since the computer controls the IAC based on sensor inputs, a scan device will help pinpoint the root cause.
  4. Remember to measure the float travel up and down before you install it. It should match the tank depth. Also, hook it up electrically -both wires- before dropping it into the tank. You can easily move the float up and down as you watch the dash gauge respond.
  5. Great. 9 inches is the top of tank to bottom of tank distance. So the new sending unit should be 9 inches or so from the bottom of it's mounting plate to the low point of the float travel. Then when you hook it up to the wiring and move the float by hand, top to bottom with the key on, the gauge on the dash should move in sync with the float position. I would hope for an accurate reading at the mid position of the float - making the gauge read 1/2 tank.
  6. Cazzy, why don't you measure the tank depth? The distance from top to bottom. If you measure the old sender without considering the tank measurement, you may not get the most accurate replacement sender.
  7. Could it be that the waterproof rubber caps were removed from the switches, exposing the actual brass push buttons?
  8. What about a fuel filter partially clogged? Is there one for each engine?
  9. Why not just take your suspect sender out? You can easily measure the empty to full distance with a ruler from bottom to top of the inside of the tank. You need to remove the sender anyway. Remember to try your new sender out while it is electrically hooked up, but before you install it into the fuel tank. It should make the dash gauge read close to empty, mid way, and full when you move the float to those approximate positions.
  10. You were so close to figuring this out. With the sending unit out and all wires still hooked up try this. Cover the fuel tank hole to keep fumes in there. Next turn the key to the ON position. Not running the engine. Now just slide the float up and down while you watch the helm gauge. The needle should move and be close to empty, mid, and full positions as you slide to each position.
  11. I watched your second video. Thanks for moving the winch post forward. What about a heavy duty ratchet strap right across the whole boat left to right? It really works to pull the boat and trailer together. The U.S. Fish and Wildlife dept. in my area trailer their boats that way. It's the 3 inch wide style strap.
  12. Yes get the VHF radio. Learn to use it. Our daughter boats regularly on the Chesapeake with a husband and two young children aboard. Safety is the reason to have one. I think of it like having a fire extinguisher on board. It's ready to use in an emergency. Be prepared. It can save lives.
  13. I would move the winch post forward 3 inches. Repeat the test drive with your video camera watching the same roller. This will improve the roller contact as well as put more weight forward on the tongue. Maybe even measure the distance from the hitch to the ground while hooked up before and after the reposition. This will indicate more tongue weight being placed on your vehicle.
  14. Check with an RV Dealer service department. I remember some sort of widespread recall on those refrigerators. You'll probably need to have info like the model and serial numbers. Good Luck.
  15. Sounds like a fuel delivery issue. Has the fuel filter been replaced? It may be clogged up. This can prevent full flow of fuel. I replace mine every 3 seasons.
  16. Probably should have replaced the thermostat with a brand new one while you had the suspect out. That way you would know if your issue was caused by a weak thermostat that was opening too soon.
  17. Remove the wire at the sending unit. Turn key on. Fuel gauge should read empty. Now ground the wire to a good clean metal surface. Fuel gauge should read full. If this works as stated, you have a sending unit problem. This test proves that the gauge and wire to the sending unit are good.
  18. It really helps to take a cell phone pic of things like battery connections before disconnecting them. Hope the radio isn't blown.
  19. Try one of those long soft brushes that are used to clean under a refrigerator. I dip it in simple green and water mixture. Then to dry it I wrap a couple of paper towels around the brush and slide it through. Hope this helps.
  20. Never operate an alternator without a battery installed. The charging system needs to "see" a battery. Otherwise bad things can happen in the electrical system. It acts like a shock absorber to control excessive voltage in the entire system. The old days of unhooking a battery cable to see if the alternator was working are past.
  21. I acquired my Chaparrel from a PO after it sat for a few seasons. I drained the fuel out through the transom drain plug hole, while it was on the trailer. I used a long piece of 3/8 fuel hose to extend the tank hose that normally feeds the fuel pump to the outside of the boat. I connected a 12 volt fuel pump outside the boat and drained about 30 gallons of stale fuel. Be very carefull. Sparks while connecting electric fuel pump should be away from everything.
  22. I agree. Change the oil and oil filter before you put any more hours on it. Examine the drain oil for any sign of contamination. Milky color for instance. If that's the case, then a repeat oil and filter change is a pretty good idea to help get the contamination out.
  23. Glad to hear the battery issue is resolved. Keep a close watch on each battery's voltage for the next few outings. Before you start up the engine, and then after it's been running for 10 minutes for instance. Typical readings might be 12.5 and then 14.0 for instance. This will show good batteries as well as prove the charging system is working. One question for you. Why are there life jackets in the engine compartment?
  24. Not a good idea. The Great Lakes are a freshwater sea. Open bow vessels not safe there.
  25. I agree with Bt Doc. Anchor system is critical. Once in a previous boat we had to leave her at anchor off shore overnight. It was in about 4 feet of water and we waded in to shore then hiked about 1.5 miles back home. All this due to an inaccurate fuel gauge. Next day carried in 5 gallons, fueled up and ran back to our home on Lake Huron. Anchor can save you and your vessel as well.