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Everything posted by SterndriveEd

  1. The Thermostatic Spring does all the work. When cold, the spring has enough power to close the choke plate fully. You can easily test this by looking at the choke plate, then while in neutral, push the throttle control forward about 1/2 way while not starting the engine. A good thermostatic spring will pull the choke plate closed on a cold engine. Now the engine can be started up and after a few minutes, the heat from the running engine will cause the thermostatic spring to lose it's tension. The choke plate should now be fully open-vertical. The drill bit measurement is done during carb rebuilds and will measure a gap caused by the choke pull off. This is a device that will open the choke slightly during initial start-up on a cold engine. Hope this helps.
  2. Nice pic. Couldn't help noticing the dock line tied off to the piling. Somebody needs to practice their knot tying!
  3. Okay Guys. I have questions about all this oil pan drain hose discussion. Once you succeed in attaching this device to the drain pan drain hole I see 2 issues. One, every oil change, you must contort your arm to reach the shut off valve that controls the flow from oil pan to drain hose. Two, how do you catch all the oil that is now flowing into your bilge? Remember we are talking about a gallon or so of hot oil. I'm a fan of using a vacuum pump connected to the dipstick tube.
  4. It looks like a NOAA Weather buoy. We have a similar looking bouy here in Thunder Bay - Lake Huron, about 9 miles East of Alpena, Michigan.
  5. Been there before. My skeg was totally gone after striking a submerged object. The bullet section of the lower unit was not even scratched. The prop also was perfect, not even a ding. Paid the insurance deductible and now have a new Mercruiser lower unit. And peace of mind.
  6. I would stay away from any tech that says a "short with a ground". There is no such animal. He may be charging you by the hour to chase down a non-existent wiring issue. There can be "open" wires- a broken connection. There can be "grounded" wires-a bare wire touches metal. There can be "shorted" wires-two systems or wires touch each other that are supposed to be separate. Finally a poor connection, due to corrosion, or a loose connection can cause trouble too.
  7. I change oil and filter just before winter lay up. After shutting off the warmed up engine, I use a vacuum pump and a 1/4 inch dia. plastic tube that is longer than the dipstick. I place it down the dipstick tube until it just bottoms out inside of the oil pan. The tubing connections are fitted to a glass jar that holds about a quart. As it nearly fills, I switch to another jar. Repeat until no more oil is being drawn out. Once I pulled the drain plug -after doing this- just to see what was left, and found about a cup of oil. Not too bad when compared to 4 qts. that my 4.3 holds.
  8. Try disconnecting the IAC before you start up. If doing this keeps the engine from revving up to 3000 rpms, then you are getting close to the issue. Since the computer controls the IAC based on sensor inputs, a scan device will help pinpoint the root cause.
  9. Remember to measure the float travel up and down before you install it. It should match the tank depth. Also, hook it up electrically -both wires- before dropping it into the tank. You can easily move the float up and down as you watch the dash gauge respond.
  10. Great. 9 inches is the top of tank to bottom of tank distance. So the new sending unit should be 9 inches or so from the bottom of it's mounting plate to the low point of the float travel. Then when you hook it up to the wiring and move the float by hand, top to bottom with the key on, the gauge on the dash should move in sync with the float position. I would hope for an accurate reading at the mid position of the float - making the gauge read 1/2 tank.
  11. Cazzy, why don't you measure the tank depth? The distance from top to bottom. If you measure the old sender without considering the tank measurement, you may not get the most accurate replacement sender.
  12. Could it be that the waterproof rubber caps were removed from the switches, exposing the actual brass push buttons?
  13. What about a fuel filter partially clogged? Is there one for each engine?
  14. Why not just take your suspect sender out? You can easily measure the empty to full distance with a ruler from bottom to top of the inside of the tank. You need to remove the sender anyway. Remember to try your new sender out while it is electrically hooked up, but before you install it into the fuel tank. It should make the dash gauge read close to empty, mid way, and full when you move the float to those approximate positions.
  15. You were so close to figuring this out. With the sending unit out and all wires still hooked up try this. Cover the fuel tank hole to keep fumes in there. Next turn the key to the ON position. Not running the engine. Now just slide the float up and down while you watch the helm gauge. The needle should move and be close to empty, mid, and full positions as you slide to each position.
  16. I watched your second video. Thanks for moving the winch post forward. What about a heavy duty ratchet strap right across the whole boat left to right? It really works to pull the boat and trailer together. The U.S. Fish and Wildlife dept. in my area trailer their boats that way. It's the 3 inch wide style strap.
  17. Yes get the VHF radio. Learn to use it. Our daughter boats regularly on the Chesapeake with a husband and two young children aboard. Safety is the reason to have one. I think of it like having a fire extinguisher on board. It's ready to use in an emergency. Be prepared. It can save lives.
  18. I would move the winch post forward 3 inches. Repeat the test drive with your video camera watching the same roller. This will improve the roller contact as well as put more weight forward on the tongue. Maybe even measure the distance from the hitch to the ground while hooked up before and after the reposition. This will indicate more tongue weight being placed on your vehicle.
  19. Check with an RV Dealer service department. I remember some sort of widespread recall on those refrigerators. You'll probably need to have info like the model and serial numbers. Good Luck.
  20. Sounds like a fuel delivery issue. Has the fuel filter been replaced? It may be clogged up. This can prevent full flow of fuel. I replace mine every 3 seasons.
  21. Probably should have replaced the thermostat with a brand new one while you had the suspect out. That way you would know if your issue was caused by a weak thermostat that was opening too soon.
  22. Remove the wire at the sending unit. Turn key on. Fuel gauge should read empty. Now ground the wire to a good clean metal surface. Fuel gauge should read full. If this works as stated, you have a sending unit problem. This test proves that the gauge and wire to the sending unit are good.
  23. It really helps to take a cell phone pic of things like battery connections before disconnecting them. Hope the radio isn't blown.
  24. Try one of those long soft brushes that are used to clean under a refrigerator. I dip it in simple green and water mixture. Then to dry it I wrap a couple of paper towels around the brush and slide it through. Hope this helps.
  25. Never operate an alternator without a battery installed. The charging system needs to "see" a battery. Otherwise bad things can happen in the electrical system. It acts like a shock absorber to control excessive voltage in the entire system. The old days of unhooking a battery cable to see if the alternator was working are past.