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Toby from MO

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About Toby from MO

  • Birthday 01/11/1974

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Imperial, MO
  • Interests
    Hunting, Fishing, Boating, Baseball Coach, Hockey Coach
  1. Toby from MO

    Stainless Prop Question

    I'm recalling most all this from memory so I apologize for not being exact. When we got our "new to us" 1930 (Merc 5.0, 220HP, Alpha 1, 1.62) it had a 21P, 3 blade, aluminum. If I remember correctly it ran about 44-45mph WOT (GPS) @ 4400RPM. I then tried a friends 19P Mirage Plus. It was way to much for our boat...the prop has a HUGE diameter, aggressive rake and a ton of cup in the blades. Prop slip % went way down but the boat only ran 41mph @ 4100 RPM. I then tried Merc's 4 blade aluminum...18P. This prop performed well out of the hole but wouldn't allow me to fully utilize my trim...it would start cavitating. If I remember correctly it ran about 42MPH @ 4600RPM. This prop is now my spare. A friend then allowed me to borrow his 17P, 3 blade, aluminum. This prop ran approximately the same speed as the 4 blade (42MPH) @ approx. 5000RPM. I ended up finding and settling on a 17P Enertia. Found it new/used on EBAY for 1/2 price of new. They guy had bought it to try and didn't work for him. The boat now runs about 44-45MPH (average load) @ 4700RPM. I believe prop slip is around 8%. Definately try before you buy and remember your RPM's will rise/fall with the seasonal weather changes. The numbers I gave are typical of summer in Missouri...hot and very humid. For example, this past fall I was taking our boat out of the slip to trailer it for winterizing and storage. The temp was about 60F with low humidity. I did have a slightly lighter load than normal but I spun the same 17P Enertia up about 48MPH @ 5200RPM. Good luck
  2. Toby from MO

    Do it yourself: Do-It-Yourself Winterizing Kit

    Ideally the answer would be no. However, you could drain the block first then pull antifreeze into the motor with muffs. This way you know all the water is out and only antifreeze is going in. The biggest complaint I've heard with the bucket method is you merely create an antifreeze/water dilution in the motor...hence the reason most will tell you to use -100 grade. My local shop showed me the results of a recent test they performed using the bucket method...don't recall exactly but I believe it was something like 15 - 16 gal of antifreeze before their sampling showed no dilution of water.
  3. Toby from MO

    Engine running rough

    Dieseling is the continued detonation of the gas/air mixuture in the combustion chamber after ignition fire has been removed...due too excessive heat. Letting the engine cool before shutdown will help. Higher octane will also help due to its higher flashpoint...its more stable. As someone else stated, it may very well be excessive carbon buildup. Carbon will hold enough heat long after ignition fire is removed to continue detonation. As to your carb floats...not sure this would directly result in this issue but could possibly be contributing to a "fat" fuel mixture and building of carbon in the combustion chamber. A "fat" running motor will also run hotter than a "lean" motor. If left ingnored for a period of time it would eventually lead to the situation described above. Advnaced ignition timing will also add running temperature...not to mention a "fatter" fuel mixture will require more advanced timing to burn it.
  4. Toby from MO

    Do it yourself: Do-It-Yourself Winterizing Kit

    No...just removed the hoses from thermo housing and poured antifreeze directly down the hoses. I thought this method to be a bit safer. Having drained the block I am less concern with water diluting my antifreeze nor do I have to concern myself with the thermostat being open ensuring water is circulating through both block and manifolds...as with the bucket method. I poured the block nearly full...until water began to back up in the hose. The manifolds and water intake tubes will take antifreeze until it runs from the exhaust and/or water intake.
  5. Toby from MO

    Do it yourself: Do-It-Yourself Winterizing Kit

    I took an even cheaper route...antifreeze poured directly into the block, manifolds and water intake via hose/thermostat connection. ...of course after the block was drained
  6. Toby from MO

    Another Winterization Thread 276SSX

    Though batteries will self disharge and always a good idea to keep them on a trickle there is no ill effect of setting a modern day battery on a concrete floor. These thoughtd were handed down to us from the days of wooden and/or hard rubber cases.
  7. Toby from MO

    Fogging 5.7EFI

    I bought my first EFI, 4-stroke, outboard in late 2007. Since then I've been using this same fogging mixture per the direction of my local Merc service tech. We call it the "cocktail". BTW...my Merc tech told me to NEVER spray fogging oil into the air inlet of my EFI. Good for carburated motors...bad for EFI motors. Referred to something about screwing up fuel injectors...don't know all the details here. Since my outboard is a jet I have no lower unit gear lube to mess with. Hit all the grease zirc's, change oil and run the "cocktail" through the motor until it starts to smoke. Shut it off...done for the winter. Talk about easy. One thing to recognize...since that TSB was issued fuel treatments have changed quite a bit. I actually picked up all my winterizing fluids today and now the fuel treatment is only 1 oz per 5 gals due to higher concentration treatments. Toby
  8. Toby from MO


    Goods news. Called my local Mercruiser shop and made a deal with them. I agreed to buy my supplies from them (oil, oil filter, fuel/water separator, antifreeze, fuel treatment, fogging spray & oil extractor pump) and do all the engine related winterizing steps myself. They agreed to provide complete removal, inspection & service of my outdrive within the “packaged” price structure. Basically breaks down this way...quoted me 148 deer for everything I need to complete my tasks and quoted me 147 deer for complete stern drive service. As an added incentive my trailering the boat back home from the lake home means I’m storing it on their property for a couple months at my cost. Very happy it worked out this way. It’s a win – win. I don’t trust many when it comes to my toys but I do trust these guys. They make a little money, I save a little money, while becoming a little more self sufficient in the process. Thanks for the help guys.
  9. Toby from MO


    Ok guys...dilemma time. After reading the Professor's list of "to do's" I called my local service shop to discuss in further detail. I asked about the need for full inspection/servicing (i.e. removal) of the stern drive as Professor alluded to. We discussed every detail of the service/inspection, including the typical results of not inspecting and should problems occur during operation. He quoted me 480 deer for the whole ball of wax, including …labor, parts & tax...out the door. Basically, it includes every detail, then some, that the Professor listed. Now the dilemma...I am absolutely comfortable doing everything myself except the removal/inspection of stern drive, gimble bearings, bellows, etc... Though by the time I invest in all the necessities to do most of the work myself, I am also breaking up the dealer's "package deal" thus I don't save a whole heck of a lot by not letting him do it all. Furthermore...this boat is 12yrs old though only having 130hrs on it. The previous owner was my father-n-law, whom I know took good care of it. However, I also know this level of inspection/service has never been done since it was new. Results from this past season leave no concerns on my mind, i.e. no mysterious sounds, no mysterious vibrations, never a single drop of water in the bilge...nothing. However, I'm now wondering if I should have this "full" service/inspection done because it has never been done. Maybe for nothing else than piece of mind. What do you guys think?
  10. Toby from MO


    OK...been watching You Tube. Everything seems to be fairly simple and straight forward. I certainly need to make a list of all the crap I need before leaving town for the lake. One question...is there any risk in changing the gear lube at the beginning season? Leaving the existing lube in the lower unit over the winter months? The lube in the lower unit is new this season...about 40 hours on it...though I do understand the change is also inspection for moisture. The reason I ask is because I was planning to do my winterizing on the lift...leaving it on the lift for the winter season. The only way I can change the lower unit lube is to sit in a small jon boat, behind the lift, and do my work from there. It's possible but a huge pain in the rear. I could run it over to the boat ramp and do the work there but time is very short and hoped to not completely uncover and launch the boat. What do you guys think? I guess if I must do it...then I must do it because I won't risk it if there is risk. I'm still not sure if I should follow the West Marine method for purging the block or simply drain and dump antifreeze directly into the block through the thermostat. Toby
  11. Toby from MO


    Holy crap. I was quoted 240 deer just to drain/antifreeze the block, fog cylinders and check for water in gear lube. 600 deer sounds cheap for all your doing? Also...with my outboards...I've always been told to change the oil at the begining of each season not at the end...so to remove any condensation that forms over the winter months. BTW...can someone tell me exactly how the oil is changed on an I/O. Obviously this is my first I/O...I think I heard once that the oil is extracted vs. being dumped...is this correct? Pulling the outdrive...do you do this every season? Seams like a lot. Around here I have never heard of anyone removing the outdrive for the winter season. Thanks again, Toby
  12. Toby from MO


    Can some post and/or direct me to a thread explaining a prefered method for winterizing an I/O? I have a carbureted, 5.0L, Mercruiser...Alpha One. Looking to winterize the block and manifolds. I was going to pull the boat off the lift, trailer it home and let my local shop winterize and store it. Considering the relative costs I’ve decided to winterize myself and leave it on the lift for the winter season. Albeit my slip is covered (I still use my boat cover) and the marina has exceptional security...at least better than most around here. I’ve been given two basic methods. 1st...draw antifreeze from a bucket using muffs. Once antifreeze is running from exhaust spray fogging fluid into carburetor. Shut it off...done. 2nd...my local service shop suggested spraying fogging fluid into carburetor first. Drain block and manifolds. Poor antifreeze directly into block/manifolds/lower unit via hoses (4) connected at thermostat. Both seam to accomplish the same result but wondering if anyone had any input as to which is better/easier or any other tips/concerns/no no’s/must do’s. Thanks, Toby
  13. Toby from MO

    Prop suggestions from prior post

    That is awesome...your continued effort paid off. Sounds like you have the best of all worlds...great hole shot, good top end and rpm right where they need to be. Good work.
  14. Toby from MO

    Wiring a new amp

    I ran all new. I disconnected the plug on the rear of the JBL and left the existing speaker wires in the boat. If you want to reuse the existing wires call JBL and ask them to send you the wiring diagram for the unit you have...i.e. for the radio. I believe the wiring diagrams supplied by Chaparral will indicate the wire colors they used to run the speakers.
  15. Toby from MO

    Prop suggestions

    My 2 cents... First...regarding the Vengeance. I have heard of, I personally know of 2, people who have switched from an aluminum 3 blade prop to a Vengeance of the same pitch and have gained rpms. In one specific case a buddy of mine gained 200rpm after swapping his 19" aluminum for a 19" Vengeance. Just throwing this out there because in most instances a switch from aluminum to stainless of the same pitch will result in lower rpms. That said, the Vengeance is considered a straight replacement for the aluminum blade...lighter weight compared to performance props and having no cup in the blades. Sometimes this makes it difficult to compare against. High 5 - Just as roman suggests...try the 19". Shepard has schooled all of us on the differences between the 17" and 19". Considering your results with the 17" the 19" should drop your rpms into the 4500-4600 range and gain you back a few mph...that is if you satisfied with 4500-4600 WOT. Your hole shot will still be much better than the 19" Vengeance. Again, considering your test with the 17"...I believe if you're able to test this same blade in a 19" your search may be over....middle to upper 40's with a rocket like hole shot...game over. Rev 4 - Tough call on this one. Since your boat only turned 4500 with the 19" Vengeance I'm not sure you would see much, if any, rpm gain if you chose the 17" Rev 4. The Rev 4 is very agressive...lots of rake, lots of cup in the blades and lots of weight to turn. Understanding less pitch would be moving you in the right direction, i.e. up in rpm, the forth blade will reduce the rpm some as will the cup in the blade. Cup in the blade really helps the prop hook up but also sucks the rpms out of the engine at WOT. The Rev 4 is large blade, probably weighs approximately 8lbs more than the Vengeance. Just I ended up with...the Enertia is another consideration. I would think an 18p would be a good place to start. Good luck and keep us posted with your results. Toby