Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About GIORGOS8888

  • Birthday 11/26/1962

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests

Recent Profile Visitors

1,804 profile views
  1. GIORGOS8888

    torque for elbows ,manifolds bolts

    Hello guys ,does anybody knows which is the torque for the elbows and manifolds bolds for a Mercruizer 350 Magnum MPI year model 1998 ?I plan to take them apart to check a leakage and need to know the correct bolt torque for them when will put the new gaskets.
  2. GIORGOS8888

    Sea water leak beside strb elbow salt layer

    Thank you soldier4402 for your answer.I will go with my engineer to check them and will report back.
  3. Hi everybody and a mild winter to all of us . A new story arises for my Lady , as before last summer I deside to make some checks to engine (as engineer insists) that we have to check every 5 years the elbows inside for rust.He took apart them both ,they were like new with a very slight wear (I was also surprissed as boat is now and 5 years in salt water) he put a coat of Mercruiser black paint and put them back in them position with new OEM gaskets.I ask him to screw them bolts as per Mercruizer torque manual,and he told to me that this is 25 ft/lbs each one bolt and crosswise.He screw them at first, at 22 ft/lbs all of them crosswise and finally at 25 crosswise and finish.I thought should be at first ,all of them at 12 ft/lbs and after at 25 ft/lbs but anyway I did not comment then. Also I do not know if the final torque of 25 ft/lbs is correct?? After 265 nautical miles induring one month cruising mid August-September ,the boat return back on her trailer for winter.I flash the engine with fresh water and left her for two months without another inspection.Yesterday I flash one more time and then took out the blue plugs in order to empty the engine from water for winder.At strbd side of engine (aft and at left from the elbow) I saw a layer of salt plus rust towards the engine block and at the right side of the same elbow, the last one spark plug is full rust around it.Rest plugs seems clean and engine is working normal Also I had notice from the first day at sea this last summer , that around the new elbows gaskets (the one milimetre which can be seen when elbow in position) seems light rust,which before that check (took apart elbows) there were not any rust for 5 years,only the last summer start to appear a light rusty color there,and thats because I agreed to take out elbows for check. At first I thought that water came in to engine cylinder through the excaust (as two times I fall at very rough sea for an hour each time,but sea waves were from port side),when I saw the rust around the spark plug.After I took pics and display them at laptop I thought may be is from the elbow .Also thought not easy the water to come out from cylinder through the spark plug as it is airtight in position. As night was coming I did not check the port elbow area (also seems light rust around the visible area of it's gasket). I did not had time to check the engine oil for water through the dipstick -is this correct way? -(and did not thought abt this that time) and I do not know how to check if water on top of pistons.I think have to take out spark plugs and somebody to turn the key as I will look at open spark plug holes.Is this the correct way??All of them (spark plugs) out in one time ? All above are just my thoughts .I do not know from where came the salt water over there.That's because I kindly ask your help here in our forum. Here in the forum Gallery I will try to place some pics of the matter.Picture with blue water plug is just to show the beside spark plug that is without any issue.Any help ,advises ,opinions will be great appreciate as I do not know how to handle the matter? As is first time Ii upload to gallery in forum I am not sure if did correct.They look 10 pics under giorgos8888 title. Before to call the engineer I need to know something from our forum special knowledge ,I think this is a better way. Thank you all in advanse for your always kindly response.George .
  4. GIORGOS8888

    Sea water leak beside strb elbow salt layer

    Rust around the last spark plug
  5. GIORGOS8888

    After T-stat change , temperature gauge on dash fails

    To make the long story sort , I left it as it was and put the boat in the water.I was cruising 525 nautical miles that summer.T-stat was working perfect from the first moment when boat in the sea.Temp gauge on dash steady at 160 degrees.After all these miles, when boat again on trailer on land during engine flashing with fresh water (after summer) happened again the same as described at the beggining of this topic.I was not worrrying any more,I was laughing.It seems as the new t-stat was very sensitive when on trailer.Next summer (last summer) when in the sea again ,everything was working correct ,again!Also no more surprises after the 2nd summer when flashing engine on trailer.I wrote this back in order to close an open case as many people tried to help me in this my issue here in and I owned a final answer to what had happen finally.Thank you everybody of you guys.
  6. GIORGOS8888

    Norcold DE351d 220 volt at 110

    Hi everybody,not yet at sea this summer ,I look forward next week.I own an a/c_d/c as subject.It's 110 ac but from my mistake I put on 220 volts.Now is working only on 12 dc volts.What did happen?,what must I do to return it in the previous good working order?Today at least I had the time to open the power supply cover.Both fuses are from glass and do not seem removable except if with electric soldering.Anyway both fuses seem to be in tact.I rcv beep from multimeter,also looking OK .At attached pics (which I will try to upload,not sure if will succeed) is a green/brown color coil in the unit which seems to be a little toast.But I donot know how to remove it and check. Also there is a bigger one similar coil (triple size) it seems as tansformer ?yellow color on top of powerr unit.Why are two coils?/transformers are both?I do not know also from where had pass at first the 220 volts and reasonable which one has to be burned?Finally where I have to ask for repair?At an electrician ? or at an electronic technisian ?Or is something easy that I can do by myself?Any advises will be a help .Thank you all
  7. GIORGOS8888

    What is this???

    Of course if the existing transduser is not compatible with the new chartplotter which you want it is another story.May be you will close the hole if take out this transduser and no need nothing of what we have discuss above.
  8. GIORGOS8888

    What is this???

  9. GIORGOS8888

    What is this???

    Happy if I made you smile Not able to post pics at the moment as boat is an hour driving fm my home and no time to go there these days.Just keep in mind if follow this process that the piece of wood must be able to survive in the salt/lake water (solid teak wood or what carpenter shop advise),also length of it on mine ,stops before the next forward beam,so bunk to be able to make crossbow.
  10. GIORGOS8888

    What is this???

    I didn't read all the posts,so maybe is written already what I am describing here.I have an MTI trailer 1999 model which has a label on it that has being constructed especially for my boat -260 Signature-and it is a very nice trailer.I also have exactly the same issue as you!.Mine is the plastic protective suction of aircon.As Phiilbo says :<<That portion of the hull does not come in contact with the bunk until you start to pull the trailer out of the water so no risk of ripping it (whatever it is) off when loading. >>anyway I am not happy with this.But the previous owner had screwed a piece of wood abt 25" length on the bunk which starts at 3" approx. in front of the aircon suction.Wide same as the bunk.So when the nose of the boat stops at the forward roller of the hand winch the distance is always safe from the attached wood and the plastic suction.The boat as coming out of the water on the trailer push the wood which push the bunk.Finally the suction never touch on the bunk.Has approx 1" distance the plastic suction from the bunk..I did n't cut the bunk (as I believe that needs to support the heavy aft part of the boat ,as engine room is up there.)It is not the best ,but it seems to work until now.
  11. GIORGOS8888

    Deep holes when took out stabilizer's Flaps

    Thank you both for your answers ,yes I mean the trim tabs.Tell me your opinion pls.
  12. Hi to everybody, as I took out the screws from the flaps in order to paint with antifouling ,I saw that the screws holes of them on hull are very deep.Much more deeper than the screws.That time I had only some toothpicks on board and even the screws have a length of less than half a toothpick length, the toothpick was able to get in the screw holes with her entire length and even then did not find a point to stop.To all screw holes ,7 at each flap nest. Flaps have been constructed on board from chaparral ,when boat ordered as new.They also have (the flaps) them nests at the back down place of the hull.7 screws each ,etc.The flaps are hydraulic.Now my concern is , why has to be so big room down there in? I never had a leakage in the engine room ,but anyway it seems that there is a small void space at each one ,and realy I do not know if there is a special void space for each ,or if they communicate with the inside of the hull construction with bad results of possibly delamination or I do not know what else. Boat is usually in the water one month per year.The rest time of the year is on her trailer in a parking. There was some sealant on each screw threads and I intend to put 3M 4200 when put them back.But is this enough? If anybody has a knowledge about this matter ,also the inside construction of these flaps nests ,please advise.Thanks in advanse for any response.
  13. GIORGOS8888

    After T-stat change , temperature gauge on dash fails

    Denny,to be honest I was thinking very seriously abt this backwards, last night.But no , I put it back as I took it apart and is like this diagram http://www.marineeng...0-thru-0m299999 When you open it , then check the standart cooling diagram.
  14. GIORGOS8888

    Belt's tension

  15. GIORGOS8888

    After T-stat change , temperature gauge on dash fails

    Cyclops2 I did nt write thermostat for laugh,just I am sleeping on my laptop :)it is past 3 am here .I understood what you mean.I am sorry I repeat it mistake written.But its funny anyway,for both of us:) Thank you Mi3sons .Regarding the belt pls we can continue in my other post.