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CKBREW

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  1. 1998 sig 260. I want to replace the black water sewage line that runs from the head to the holding tank and also the pump out line due to age and odor problems . The line from the head passes through the fire wall and is sealed around the fire wall bulkhead with what looks like "touch n foam". Replacing the line will require tearing out this sealant. After the line is replaced, what do I use to replace this sealant to isolate the engine room from the berth area? Is there a requirement for a particular material or can I just use touch n foam like would be used to seal weather gaps in a residential land building? Recommendations on what type of line to use? A quick look at the local marine store shows different types of line, and all are expensive.
  2. Umm, thank you. I could say the same thing about the entire boat... I don't have a problem replacing the pump. Can anyone explain what is happening to the pump? Just for my own education. Ty.
  3. 1998 sig 260. Recently when the grey water sump fills and the float switch closes the circuit to start the grey water pump, the pump does not run. I believe that it is trying to start, but fails to pump. At the same time I can see the battery voltage drop from 12.5 to about 4. This condition lasts about 1 second, then the circuit breaker for the sump pops, shutting off the circuit. The voltage immediately returns to 12.5. Sometimes if I switch both batteries on (house and engine ) the pump will run and drain the sump. Sometimes the pump runs normally. I don't want to over tax the circuits. This same thing happened about 5 years ago. Then I pulled the pump, took it apart looking for burned brushes etc. I found nothing obviously wrong. I separated the motor from the pump, and energized the motor with a car battery and it ran fine. I put it all back together, reinstalled it, and it has been working fine since then. Now the problem is back. I wrote it off to the pump wanting to be taken apart. Pulling the pump was a PITA, so I would like to know what else to look for. What causes this condition? Should I just say the heck with it and put in a new pump, or can the old pump be repaired? Thanks for any help with this.
  4. The spring loaded tension pulley is what I am used to in cars and trucks. It would have been easy for Merc to add this to the set up...
  5. I replaced the engine alarm. All is working normally.
  6. 1998 5.7 L Mercruiser with Bravo drive. Doing spring recommissioning. Started the engine, all ran fine. 10 minutes later, restart. The serpentine belt started squealing. It was slipping on the drive pulley on the front of the crank shaft and not turning anything else. I immediately shut off the engine. The belt was tension was set according to spec (0.5 inch deflection between the tension pulley and the power steering pulley. The belt was replaced last year, the raw water impeller was replaced 2 years ago, the alternator was replaced last year, the circ pump replaced 2 years ago. I removed the belt, and turned the tension pulley, power steering pulley, alternator pulley, circ pump pulley, and raw water pump pulley. All turned freely except for the raw water pump pulley. I know from experience that this is the pulley that takes the most torque to turn. I was able to turn it by hand with not a lot of effort. I increased the tension on the drive belt and the problem went away. Thing is, compared to my experience in automotive, it appears that there is excessive tension on the belt (0.25 inch deflection between the tension pulley and power steering pump pulley. Is this just pre-season start up bumps, or is there a problem in the raw water pump? How much tension do other people put on their serpentine belt? Is there an acceptable torque specification range to turn the ray water impeller? Last time I changed the impeller, I did not notice a change in the amount of torque it took to turn the pump between the old impeller and the new one, and the pump turned easily with out an impeller installed. Could it be the pump shaft bogging down and not the impeller itself? I could test the amount of torque to turn the pump with and with out an impeller installed, but if I am going to take it apart, I might as well put a new impeller in it. Is there a quick test, or torque spec to see if the raw eater pump is requiring excessive torque to turn it? Thank you in advance for any help.
  7. Don't know about the rest, but as far as the trim tabs go, I have a 1998 Sig 260. They have an automatic switch built into them that is supposed to raise the tabs when the key is turned off. This switch went bad and was way to expensive to replace. All I had to do was disconnect the harness before the switch and after the switch. Then bypass the switch in question. The connectors were a perfect match. Now all works well. Just have to remember to raise the trim tabs before loading on the trailer. I keep my boat in a slip so I only load and unload once a year. But I have found that trying to back the boat into the slip, or anywhere else, with the trim tabs down causes maneuvering problems. I make it a habit of making sure the trim tabs are raised before attempting any maneuver that involves backing up the boat. Just remembered, my first boat was a Bayliner. The drive trim and trailer function was always on even if the batteries were turned off. One day I could not raise the drive to put the boat on the trailer. I was able to hot wire the trim pump to raise the drive. After further inspection, I found that the electrical connector at the battery had some corrosion in it. The connection was perfectly tight, but the resistance was so high that there was not sufficient current to run the drive trim pump. Cut off the terminal, cut back the insulation and reattach an new terminal. Problem solved. Sometimes it is the simplest and least obvious things that cause problems.
  8. Amusing stuff... Anyway, back to batteries. I buy all my batteries from an independent dealer with an outstanding reputation. They will test for free any battery or charging system. If the battery is still good they will tell you. If it is marginal, they will tell you. Up to you, but you could most likely get another year out of it. This year, I topped up my batteries to the level I thought was correct, electrolyte just touching the bottom of the tube. Then I want to charge them. I found that my neighbor had borrowed my good battery charger. I used my old one that is 4 amp but does not have an automatic shut off. Low and behold, the next morning I found acid bubbling away out of the top of the battery. I thought that I had cooked it. Took the battery to trusty dealer and had him test it. I told him what I had done and what happened and was concerned that I may have ruined the battery. He tested the battery and told me all was good. He also told me that filling the cells to the the bottom of the tube was not correct. You should leave about 1/8 inch of space between the electrolyte and the bottom of the tube. Filling higher can cause the acid to overflow when charging the battery, just as had happened to me. He checked the electrolyte level and said that it was right where it should be, the battery is in good working order and all is fine. He could have easily tole me that I cooked the battery and sold me a new one, but did not do that. When I do eventually need a new battery, that is the only place I will go for a replacement. Honesty is the best customer service I can think of.
  9. My Sig 260, 1998 5.7L EFI TBI engine alarm must like to aggravate me. Last year I could not get the thing to stop sounding. After much diagnostics, I concluded that the problem was in the MEFI-1 ECM which was being triggered by a bad IAC motor in combination with a small crack in the distributor cap which eventually burned a gap in the insulating collar near the rotor, causing an errant spark, which was causing the ECM to believe there was a no spark situation, and attempting to shut down the injectors. Then the inertia of the engine fired the next spark correctly, thus confusing the ECM profoundly. By this time the RPM had started to fall, then when the spark was detected it told the injectors to pour on the fuel, causing a run rich situation which the ECM tried to correct for by throwing the IAC open wide. Normally this alarm indicates low oil pressure, engine overheat, or low drive oil. After disconnecting these alarm sources, through investigation and diagnostics, I determined that there is also something in the ECM circuitry that will cause this alarm to sound when it gets confused (not surprising since the MEFI-1 system is loaded with faults and bugs to start with). Any way, due to the fact that there are no schematics available for the inside functioning for the ECM, it is by deduction and diagnostics, that I reached this conclusion. This year when I did re-commissioning, the alarm sounded normally when the key was turned, then went off when the engine started as is normal function. After blowing out all the fogging oil, I did a tune up. After the tune up, when I turn the key, no alarm test. I can hear the fuel pump running up, I can see the oil pressure coming up when the engine starts, the drive oil is full, and the engine is not overheated just after start up. The diagnostics indicate if the alarm does not sound the test when the key is turned, then disconnect the tan wire with blue stripe, turn on the key, and touch the wire to a known good ground. If the alarm sounds, the problem is in the sending wiring (purple wire). If the alarm does not sound (it did not sound), the alarm horn is bad. Sounds simple enough. What is bugging me, is the alarm horn functioned normally before the tune up, and then after the tune up it quit. All I did was change out the plugs, rotor, and distributor cap. Then the alarm quit. Coincidence, or can anyone think of something else that would cause this condition? I ran a diagnostic with the engine analyzer and did not find any faults in the system, unnless it is in the ECM which is "black boxed" out of the system schematics. PS. When I went to buy the distributor cap, I closely inspected the insulating collar near where the rotor rides. Do you know what I found? A small crack in the insulating collar exactly where the problem was last year. To all, beware. It seems like there is a bad batch of distributor caps out there. When I pointed this out the the parts person, he didn't flinch, or question, he promptly got a different cap with out question that did not have this crack in the collar. I got the feeling that they knew about this defect and were trying to get rid of the bad stock on unsuspecting buyers.
  10. I have a 19 foot cuddy with a 3L, 4 banger Mercruiser. It has been laid up for 5 years. When I laid it up, I did engine oil change, drive oil change, tune up, through fogging and added stabilizer to the fuel tank. The fuel tank is 23 gallon capacity. I siphoned out all the old fuel and recovered 14.5 gallons, removed the fuel sender and suctioned out the last remaining 4 oz or so. I seem to remember having more fuel in it than that, but it could just be fading memory. I disconnected the fuel feed hose from the tank to the fuel pump (mechanical) at the pump, and found the line to be bone dry. My plan is to add 5 gallons of fresh fuel and a healthy dose of Sea Foam, and change the fuel filters. One is on the bottom of the fuel pump, and the other is where the fuel line connects to the carburetor. Usually when I do spring re-commissioning I shut of the lanyard kill switch, crank the engine for 10 seconds, wait 30 seconds, then repeat cycle 4 times to get the oil primed, then go for an engine start. There is no sign of water in the engine oil or drive oil. Batteries are charged up and holding the charge. Any other suggestions for priming the engine, further PM, or anything to look for? Plan is to sell the boat. I want to get it running and cleaned up before hand. PS. My cat found this place to be a nice home and there are several places on the engine cover and seats where there is what appears to be dried smeared blood. He is a good critter catcher. Any suggestions for removing this? Thanks in advance guys. This board has always been a big help.
  11. I have never done automotive restoration. From your pix your work came out extremely fine. Could you elaborate on your waxing and detailing technique? Did you use a rubbing compound, or is that too aggressive for fiberglass?
  12. I am re-commissioning my 260 Sig. I guess my last pump out last fall was not as through as it usually is. When I tested the head and grey water sump, I got an extremely RIPE blast of hydrogen sulfide out of the tank vent. I only get the smell when material is added to the tank, so I am confident it is coming from the vent. I haven't launched yet, planning for later this week. Any recommendations for cleaning out the tank? All I want to do now is try and clean out & remove whatever has taken "residence" in the tank, let it slosh around, then pump it out again. There really is not much in there to try and pump out now, so I don't want to drop $10.00 for a pump out when nothing will come out. I have heard of dish soap and fabric softener which sounds good. I have heard of using bleach which I have heard is bad for the tank and can disrupt the beneficial bacteria that break down the sewage. Other ideas? Thanks.
  13. I am re-commissioning my 260 Sig. I guess my last pump out last fall was not as through as it usually is. When I tested the head and grey water sump, I got an extremely RIPE blast of hydrogen sulfide out of the tank vent. I only get the smell when material is added to the tank, so I am confident it is coming from the vent. I haven't launched yet, planning for later this week. Any recommendations for cleaning out the tank? All I want to do now is try and clean out & remove whatever has taken "residence" in the tank, let it slosh around, then pump it out again. There really is not much in there to try and pump out now, so I don't want to drop $10.00 for a pump out when nothing will come out. I have heard of dish soap and fabric softener which sounds good. I have heard of using bleach which I have heard is bad for the tank and can disrupt the beneficial bacteria that break down the sewage. Other ideas? Thanks.
  14. Is this a TBI or carb fuel system? What ECM do you have? If is is MEFI-1 this unit is crude, has built in faults, and is subject to electrical interruptions (we are talking milliseconds here) and noise. This will cause the ECM to reset itself and cause all kinds of engine run problems. Rule out electrical problems, and if you can get a scanner to look for trouble codes, or just see if the scanner keeps cutting out, or the engine run time on scanner keeps resetting to 0 (not the total engine time, just scanner time) this is an indication that your ECM is resetting itself.
  15. CKBREW

    Engine Trouble!

    Imagine what the marina would have charged me to figure this out. I also know a local mechanic who knows marine mechanics out on the islands off the coast of Maine. He said that when those mechanics see a TBI come in with problems, they do not even bother trying to trouble shoot it. They just change out the intake manifold, and add a 4 barrel carb. Less money in the long run if you are paying someone else to do the work.
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