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About watson524

  1. If we go new, it will have the 8.2 Merc in it. Have no experience with VP but that single point drain thing Adam mentioned above is sweet, saw that in a video last nite. Tho honestly, we tend to go overboard when winterizing our current OMC that I'd likely pull the blue plugs or whatever anyway. Apparently the bow front gel coat and glass issue is from the marina and a bad fork lift driver. I'd be pissed to levels I can't even begin to describe if that were me.
  2. Luckily, there is a great gel coat guy about 5 miles from me. The nose part actually has me less concerned than the hairline vertical crack in the anchor locker but there's no other signs of impact so my gut tells me it's tied to the nose gel coat issue or a scratch from putting the anchor away. Going to see what he'll do on price regardless I think since it doesn't have a trailer and is not much less than what we've been quoted for brand new, a few extra options (my problem, not the seller's I understand) and a trailer included. That may make this an easier call for us.
  3. The marina guy and the owner said they were done on site. Tho knowledgeable tends to be a relative term lol!
  4. Good to know! I only have experience on anodes on the outdrive, never inside the boat itself.
  5. I had initially asked if he flushed after salt/brackish use and his reesponse was that the motor has its own contained cooling system and so no “external” water runs through motor. I said my understanding was that it did up to the heat exchanger at least and out the manifolds but given his response, I think I know my answer there.
  6. Thanks for the info. I guess I'm surprised that things would be rusting even on your fresh water boat. We have a 30 year old boat and only 1 nut head on the stern tie down point shows any sign of any kind of rusting. They don't make them like they used to lol! I am going to send him a note today and ask him about the gel coat issues up front. With the prop nut and that water coming from the manifolds, should that be a concern about the engine not being flushed after salt water use? There's a blue flush point in the engine compartment which I assume is to be used for salt flushing if a nutra salt system isn't installed and also for winterization and general running since if I recall, you can't run the VP off muffs from the outdrive?
  7. Hi all, The saga of new vs used continues. Went to see a very clean 2015 264 today up in CT. Has everything we'd put on it if we were spec'ing out new except underwater lights, a grill mount and trim tabs - none of which I consider big deals and can be easily added. It has the VP 380 engine in it which I'm not at all familiar with as Mercs are more popular where we are. About 70 hours on it. Overall, we were impressed that finally we found someone that seems to keep their boat as clean as we do in the used market. Since it was used in both salt and fresh water, I asked the marina guy (it's a private sale but the owner told them we were coming and it was on the lower rack accessible) what they do when they haul out and he said they only spray it down on the outside, it's the owners responsibility to flush the engine. If I'm correct, this engine is fresh water cooled from the heat exchanger "in" (i.e. the manifolds and block?) but up to the elbows it's raw water? If you aren't flushing the raw side, how bad is that? Would like some opinions/thoughts on a few things. I took pictures so you could see what I'm talking about related to my questions. Couldn't get them to upload here even when sized down so I put them here: 1.) There were multiple spots that show what I'll call salt damage. On the helm switches, various screws, cleats and even the center of the prop. What's the level of concern you'd have about this? Can the rust stains be cleaned up? In the anchor locked up front, the 4 screws into the black bumpers if you will were totally rusted. Frankly I was a bit surprised given I'd think marine grade SS would be used. I know it's not going to stop rust but I'd think for 2 years for something rack stored, it seemed a lot. 2.) The outdrive appears to have some bubbling of the paint/coating between the upper and lower unit. I assume due to salt but would that be a sand and repaint type of repair? 3.) There was a scratch in the gray of the gelcoat. Into the white but not into the glass. I would assume any good shop can color match or does the gray make it harder because it's not white? 4.) There are a few chips in the white of the arch. If I recall that's not gel coat, but actual paint? How easy of a repair is that? With the metal of the tower, wasn't sure if special treatment was needed. 5.) The boat has board racks on the tower which we wouldn't want (don't use them and they definitely show signs of the salt air). If these are taken off, are there caps that can go in the holes? I've only looked at boats with no racks on the tower and I do not recall seeing holes predrilled and plugged which makes me think the holes are only drilled when the racks are ordered/installed. 6.) My biggest concern.... in the bow there's a sizeable chunk out of the gel coat into the glass (tho oddly the rub rail shows no signs of impact - my guess is dropped anchor tho I've not yet asked the owner). Being as this is into the glass, can it still be repaired and look right (assuming a good shop). Also, back in the bow ladder locker, on the starboard side there is what appears to be a crack in the gel coat. At first I thought it was related to the gel coat issue further forward from impact but I can't see how that kind of impact could happen without damage to the rub rail. The line of dirt initially made the "crack" look bigger but we were able to scrub dirt off tho you can still feel the link with your fingernail. Is this a possible area of stress in the boat? I wouldn't think so but.... bad mold perhaps? https://photos.app.goo.gl/5FAdRPeL2oAuUX4C2 Thanks in advance for any input.
  8. Hey I'm all for a good project but cripes...... We are likely soon selling our 1987 in #%^$&%$ near pristine condition with a 4.3. No offense, and I'm sad as #$^% to see it in that condition, but that just seems like there should be some kind of stupid tax added to the purchase price.
  9. Yeah adding them doesn't appear to be too big of an issue (sans my aversion to drilling holes in my boat), and I've always assumed a boat this size should have them, if but nothing else but to help balance out people load, but I may be looking at a used one that doesn't have them.
  10. What are your thoughts on a 264 with no trim tabs? Required on a boat this size? Nice to have? Can be added after the fact?
  11. Ok so it looks like you basically use the rails that I guess things slide into mounted on the arch. My guess is it's not something I'd use all that often so is it worth the trouble and also having the rails on the arch all the time. #firstworldproblems
  12. Do you by chance have any pictures with it up and what it looks like around the arch? I'm thinking for the new boat if we want to say go up/down the Hudson or possibly stay over somewhere it's a good alternative since we don't have a cruiser.
  13. Thanks for the suggestions! Just something I was thinking about for the next boat. Putting on the bow cover would probably help for the front too
  14. And the only way to attach to the arch are those rail things right? Which I'm not sure how THEY attach to the arch but I don't think I'd want screws in my arch