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watson524

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  1. Yeah but it's not. It's more of a webbed type material I think plus regular flannel I'd be concerned about it holding moisture and mildew
  2. Hi all, Greetings from (AGAIN! STILL??) rainy Northeast PA. I'm having some "leg warmers" made for both my mooring cover and the bow/cockpit cover to seal off the tower legs and hopefully keep water out. I want to line each with that white flannel type fabric that we have in some areas already like where the cover goes over the back seat etc. The bow/cockpit is Sunbrella and I talked to Ameritex to know what the poly/nylon fabric is that they made the full mooring cover from so I can get that material from Sailrite. What I can't find is that flannel type stuff and the person doing the work doesn't have it either. Any guesses? My other thought was buying some white microfiber cloth and using that if need be. thanks!
  3. watson524

    Battery switch in position one very intermittent

    We have rock and not clay/not sand dirt that makes awesome mud here. I'm pretty sure most of the rocks in PA got planted on my 110 acres. For old farm land, it's pretty crazy. I can't complain too much about the grass being too wet to cut and then taking a double or triple pass to get it knocked down since I have farmer friends who can't even get a crop in to support their livelihood
  4. watson524

    Battery switch in position one very intermittent

    Yep, it definitely is. Lake is VERY full even tho they're generating power through it. I have a few friends that are in and they said it's pretty junked up with floating stuff still. Cleaner than 2 weeks ago but you still have to be very careful. I've seen a bunch of sideways trees where trees don't belong.
  5. watson524

    Battery switch in position one very intermittent

    I have no idea what you're talking about with new boat covers (they don't leak, except around the tower which is expected and I'm actually going to post something about that shortly).
  6. watson524

    Battery switch in position one very intermittent

    Yep, warranty work. Right now we're just down to the defects in paint that came with the tower on..... Boat's in the driveway now ready for cleaning and polish and all that, along with the vinyl treatment etc etc. I see sun at this exact moment, but wait 5 minutes, it'll be gone. Rushed last nite to get grass at one house cut, and have to squeeze in the grass at the other house before 2:07 today when it stars raining again. No idea when we'll put the boat in given the rain. Late this year but according to the news, this part of PA is already almost +4" of rain vs this time last year. No good for the farmers, can't even get in the fields to start a crop.
  7. watson524

    Battery switch in position one very intermittent

    Well this one got solved..... the battery switch had to be replaced, contact to battery 1 was bad. If you turned on the blower switch and then went back to the battery switch, blower would come on between 0 and 1 but then when you got to position 1, it shut off so it's like it was making contact ahead of time. Dealer said he's never really seen one do this so he just replaced it. Figures.
  8. watson524

    Factory tour

    I don't think they'd let you just show up and get a tour. To my knowledge, it all has to be scheduled ahead of time.
  9. Was away for a few days (jealous of all you Florida boaters that are in all the time!) so I'm just catching up on this one..... It is, I got a new nut so I'll be putting that on to the proper torque specs so it doesn't take a large gorilla to get it off next time! I'll have to try your method so then I don't have to mess with the cavitation plate. So basically plywood down then a 2x4 on top of that to stop the rotation? I really don't like how the blades are used as the wedge but I guess that's the way it is (tho with Curt's way, I guess they don't since you're using your foot, but there's no way that would have worked with how tight these things were on before). Not the hard plastic sleeve, at least I don't think it is. The big brass looking fitting there that's got the step in it. Which I think is the prop shaft sleeve? That line isn't a crack (I thought so too), but it's just some marine stringy stuff stuck there. It scraps off with my fingernail. I'm going to have to look in the engine area again when we get the boat back but there is definitely not LEDs that catch your eye when you look in there. Makes me wonder why we don't have one. The dealer service guy didn't give me a straight answer, sales guy thought there was one that didn't have a panel, so really, no one knows a darn thing at this point. I DID find out that the default anodes (just based on the prop cone anode number stamped into it) are aluminum which makes sense I suppose since they don't know where the drives will end up but I'll likely change them all out to magnesium since I'm in fresh water. They're holding up ok and wouldn't normally be changed with this little wear off on them but for peach of mind....
  10. watson524

    Cover Leaks Around Tower

    unfortunately, I can't help with solutions, I have the same problem on my 264 and the water gets down into the tower base, in between the outer and inner hull and comes out under the wet bar. Annoying as he$$. I'm having "leg warmers" made for my cockpit and full mooring cover. Velcro around the main cover with a "leg" that'll go up and over with a velcro flap through the first "rung" of the arch.
  11. Oh the nut came off, but the breaker bar (otherwise know as the pipe that keeps the bottom of the barn door closed when wedged in place) had to be used. I'll be making sure the nuts go back on to the correct torque spec. Tighter is not always better.
  12. Couple more things on this. Took the props off today. First time through this process (had the dealer take them off and grease in the fall, no specific reason to take them off, I just wanted to look at things). Now I know what the 3 "dings" are in the paint on the edge of the cavitation plate, it's just whatever they used to brace the props. #%^$&%$. I know the torque specs are 60 rear and 100 forward but holy crap! My husband had the breaker bar on the long wrench and was putting all his effort into it and he's a strong guy. I seriously do NOT like how the blocking goes against the prop blades but I guess that's just the way it's done. Anyway, here's what the shaft looks like with some corrosion starting. Should I try to sand that somehow or just let it go? Also, I noticed the nylon insert (blue ring in the picture) on the forward prop nut is goofed up. I took this picture before we took it off. Seems like that shouldn't be like that. Should I replace it? Plus if you'll notice, there's a crack in the nut, slight vertical line there and it goes over to the right a bit. We looked all over in the engine compartment and I see nothing that looks like a mercathode system. My husband was laying on the engine to look in the back and we're just not seeing anything. On the batteries, it's the big yellow and red wires on each plus battery 1 has a smaller set of wires that I would assume are direct wired to the bilge pump/float switch. Took the boat to the dealer and sales guy (who's more than just sales, does some of the maintenance stuff too) said he thought we should have the mercathode system and maybe it's not wired to the battery but through something else I forget. I really would like to solve this mystery but....
  13. watson524

    Battery switch in position one very intermittent

    Boat goes up tomorrow so we'll see.
  14. I meant the pucks that are part of the mercathode system seen here and in a service manual https://www.wholesalemarine.com/mercathode-kit-mercury-mercruiser-88334a-2.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwkoDmBRCcARIsAG3xzl-OLTDyjZR4xY0w-6PyRIlNjCBydCupNUvojlES1zL-XYvSxWxZcxQaAsXBEALw_wcB
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