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catalanc

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Everything posted by catalanc

  1. Pretty sure you can get these at west marine as well.
  2. May come in Handy one day ... "HELLO, MY NAME IS BOB, HOW CAN I HELP YOU?" CALLER: "HI, BOB, I REALLY NEED YOUR ADVICE ON A SERIOUS PROBLEM. I HAVE SUSPECTED FOR SOME TIME NOW THAT MY WIFE HAS BEEN CHEATING ON ME. THE USUAL SIGNS: IF THE PHONE RINGS AND I ANSWER, THE CALLER HANGS UP. SHE 'GOES OUT WITH THE GIRLS' A LOT. I TRY TO STAY AWAKE TO LOOK OUT FOR HER WHEN SHE COMES HOME, BUT I USUALLY FALL ASLEEP. ANYWAY, LAST NIGHT ABOUT MIDNIGHT, I HID IN THE SHED BEHIND THE BOAT. WHEN SHE CAME HOME, SHE GOT OUT OF SOMEONE'S CAR BUTTONING HER BLOUSE, THEN SHE TOOK HER PANTIES OUT OF HER PURSE AND SLIPPED THEM ON. IT WAS AT THAT MOMENT, CROUCHED BEHIND THE BOAT, THAT I NOTICED A HAIRLINE CRACK IN THE OUTBOARD MOTOR MOUNTING BRACKET. IS THAT SOMETHING I CAN WELD, ... OR DO I NEED TO REPLACE THE WHOLE BRACKET?"
  3. I replaced the impellers on my twins while in the water and it is not too bad. I made plugs out of 3/4" PVC pipe with a cap at one end and a coupling at the other; the coupling fits just inside the hose and works great (see pic appended to this message). A little water flows into the bilge during the plugging process but not bad at all HINT: Mark the PVC plugs top and bottom so that there will be NO confusion as to which hose goes where when re-attaching to the housing. I got confused on the first engine, but fortunately had a second one to compare with. Good luck. cec
  4. My first was a 2008 204 ssi. Really liked the boat a lot, but wanted a cruiser. Went through a 240 signature and now a 300 signature. They tend to be cheaper than Sea Ray's, Formula's, and I really like the styling much better. All have handled rough water well and I just think they are the only way to go in express cruisers (and bow riders too!)
  5. brick ~ i had to laugh at this post. i did the same thing one of the first times i launched my 240 sig. backed her into the water, climbed to the helm, and she simply would not power off the trailer. The bow was lifting and i still didn't get it. then it finally dawned on me. yes, very grateful nobody was around to see it! i now have a 300 sig that i keep in a slip full time. not too hard to single handle, which I do a lot. even back her into a slip and tie up alone. just gotta practice.
  6. catalanc

    204 SSI

    Might also try smart tabs. Worked great on mine.
  7. catalanc

    204 SSI

    I had a 2008 and loved it. Was the Admiral's favorite of our boats.
  8. catalanc

    tachonometers

    I have had luck with spraying WD40 into the plugs and the switches in back and moving the switch back and forth.
  9. Battery power to everything is fine and engines start fine. "Problem" is that I noticed that the voltage reading to my GPS (and thus the port engine) drops to 9-10V when starting the port engine. Don't know about the starboard engine since it does not power the GPS. Occasionally, the low power alarm flashed on the GPS when trimming the port drive underway. I was told that this was OK on a separate post, but given the sensitivity of the volvo engine electronics to low power I am a bit concerned. New information. I checked the voltage on the batteries: 12.5 V alone, 14 V on charger, and 12.5 V on alternators (with engine running). I checked the cells: specific gravity on the cells varies, but is good, 1.275 to over 1.3. This suggests that the batteries themselves are OK, yes?
  10. I have a 3 battery setup with 3-stage charger. All 3 are dual purpose interstate batteries, one for each engine and one house. While at the dock, I leave both battery switches in the off position and the charger on at all times. The batteries are only a year or so old and looks like I am having some issues and am wondering about my protocol. Should the charger be on at all times?
  11. Was useful to me on this day ... http://s1168.photobucket.com/user/witchdoctor2/slideshow/SomeFog
  12. the Xtreme engine room heaters (an all the others, I'm sure) are rated for engine room size. you can measure out the engine compartment and see how big a heater you will need. also depends on how cold the outside air is. doesn't get all that cold here in seattle so not as big a heater is required. check out the website and they have the info there.
  13. There are different sizes. I upgraded all of the cup holders on my 300 sig to stainless. Purchased them at West Marine. Measure yours to be sure. You can always return them if they are the wrong size and get the correct ones.
  14. Pretty soon there will be an app to not only back up the trailer, but launch the boat, cruise for the day, catch a few crabs, and cook them for you ... all served with a nice chianti ...
  15. catalanc

    Winterization

    Saw this on Craigslist. A local boat guy uses it to winterize engines.
  16. Ya, I have found that there is a lot more online DIY information for mercruiser than for volvo engines. Kinda surprising. I did mine for the first time last year and took some pics. Check out the link below and let me know if it helps. cec http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/catalanc/media/VP_Impeller/Impeller1_zpsfb3fabe0.jpg.html?sort=4&o=0
  17. catalanc

    Water

    OH ... the procedure is 2 1/2 cups bleach in 10 gallons water. Add to tank and then fill with fresh water. Run water through all fixtures until you smell bleach. Sit for 3-4 hours. Drain tank and then flush system with fresh water. If you have residual bleach taste (though I don't drink this stuff), mix 1 quart vinegar in 5 gallons water and let stand in tank for several days. Flush and you're good.
  18. catalanc

    Water

    I winterize my water system and then do a sanitization protocol during recommissioning every spring. The protocol is described in the Chaparral Owners Manual. I tried to post it here but the site never lets me post anything. cec
  19. Hi Sandy, I have the same year boat with the same engine and drives (but then you already know that ... ). Whatever the case, I never noticed before but my boat also has those two anodes as well. I have a pic but can't seem to be able to post it here . I will check the inside of transom to see if mine are connected to anything. I agree that unless they are physically connected to something they are not doing anything useful. As is typical, I have anodes that are physically attached to both drives to protect them. I also have the Volvo active corrosion system (four black boxes on the outside of transom; two per drive). They should be connected to boxes on the inside of the transom and there should be blinking lights indicating that they are functional (see link below). Note that this is very different than the galvanic isolator that is behind your fridge. Hope this helps, cec http://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-c45-active-corrosion-protection-system.aspx
  20. +1. It is in an odd location for a fire port; too far from the engine. Plus it is a relatively large access port compared to the much smaller fire ports (image below). I had the same thing on my 240 and it always baffled me as to why it was there. You can get to that space from the engine compartment.
  21. Thanks for the great summary New Beginnings. This all make sense. I would guess that you and I have the same charger, a Xantrex 40+. Thinking about this, I realized that I switched the temperature switch on the charger from "cold" to "warm", which decreases the charger output to the battery. Started getting the low voltage warning on the port battery at about the same time. I will switch back and see if this takes care of the issue. Whatever the case, good to know that this is not that uncommon. cec
  22. I have three batteries in my Sig 300; port engine, starboard engine, and house. All three are the same dual-purpose battery (Interstate) and I think they are a year old, replaced shortly before I purchased the boat. I get low voltage messages on my garmin when I start the port engine from either battery 1 or battery 2 (but not both); starboard engine battery appears to be fine. I am planning on replacing the two engine batteries with starting batteries and putting the good deep cycle on house. Now my question (finally) ... My understanding is that starting batteries should be charged at all times, which is what I do not because my charger is always on when at the dock. In contrast, my understanding is that deep cycle batteries should be "fully" depleted before charging. Otherwise they go bad sooner; I fear that is what is now happening? Anyway, if I have two starting batteries and one deep cycle battery on the same charger then all three will be charged at the same rate; Should I cut off the house battery until it is "depleted" and only then include in the charge? Hope this makes sense. Opinions would be appreciated. carlos
  23. I have three batteries in my Sig 300; port engine, starboard engine, and house. All three are the same dual-purpose battery (Interstate) and I think they are a year old, replaced shortly before I purchased the boat. I get low voltage messages on my garmin when I start the port engine from either battery 1 or battery 2 (but not both); starboard engine battery appears to be fine. I am planning on replacing the two engine batteries with starting batteries and putting the good deep cycle on house. Now my question (finally) ... My understanding is that starting batteries should be charged at all times, which is what I do not because my charger is always on when at the dock. In contrast, my understanding is that deep cycle batteries should be "fully" depleted before charging. Otherwise they go bad sooner; I fear that is what is now happening? Anyway, if I have two starting batteries and one deep cycle battery on the same charger then all three will be charged at the same rate; Should I cut off the house battery until it is "depleted" and only then include in the charge? Hope this makes sense. Opinions would be appreciated. carlos
  24. So has anyone actually ordered from these guys? Prices look pretty good and they have a sale going on now. Apparently they supplied the supplier to Chaparral and have the original patterns for my 2001 300 Sig. cec
  25. I have a rip in my bench seat and need to remove it to get it fixed. There are three SS supports to the bottom of the wrap-around seat. I cannot see any screws/bolts at the back and am hoping that once the front screws are removed the seat will slide out. Anyone have any experience with this? carlos
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