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About taperk600

  • Birthday 02/10/1968

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Lake George, NY
  • Interests
    Scuba, Snowmobiling, Travel & now boating.....

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  1. Thanks again for the replies and pics everyone I do understand the assembly, it's parts, etc and I have ordered to "kit" to cut into the cavity to see / work on the tiller arm to confirm what exactly is worn inside the concealed housing without having to pull the whole thing apart. Looking at it the other day, I'm pretty sure it's either a worn pin (worn in the tiller arm) or worn tiller arm, etc. The pin itself clearly moves in unison with the gimbal ring. Time is my enemy more so than ability .... we run a commercial swimming pool business and I rarely have any free time in the summer. But I'm going to make the time to cut the hole and see what's going on inside there and decide which direction to go then. As far as corrosion, there isn't much on the lower unit itself. Not saying it's perfectly clean, the boat is a 2005 after all, and does sit (usually) in the water from May to November. My anodes are looking pretty bad, so I'm going to replace them also. I will post pics and updates once I start
  2. Went and looked at it today and the play seems to be in the steering arm and the upper pin. It was pouring today, so I didn't spend a lot of time in the rain, or get pics. But moving the drive side to side, the pin appears to move with the gimbal housing and not have play there. But the steering arm doesn't move until the "slop" is taken up, then it moves. There is about 6" of movement side to side in the outdrive before it moves the steering arm. I'm going to stop back tomorrow when it isn't raining and will grab pics and video. Thanks for all the replies !
  3. I'm guessing it's the pivot pin in the gimbal ring. I'm going to go today and grab some pics of the unit to see where the play is and how bad the corrosion is. I think they were planning to replace the whole assembly, which is the $6k figure. I'm finding out there is a less expensive repair kit out there , like you have said, depending on the degree of corrosion.
  4. Actual transom assembly. Nothing to do with the power steering system. There is play in the transom itself
  5. So, I haven't been on here in awhile, mostly because the times we've been able to use our boat in past couple of years have been few and far between.And the boat has been wonderful, so we enjoyed those few times we were able to be on the water. However, at the end of last season I noticed the wheel was needing to be rotated more and more to keep the boat going straight under power. It always needed it a little since we bought it, but I was told it was normal. Well, about 1/2 a turn made me concerned..... So I mentioned it to the shop who services our boat and they said they would look at it in the spring. Fast forward to today.... we knew we were going to launch late in the season because we have been extremely busy the past few springs and the boat has ended up just sitting in the water for months getting dirty and not being used. We wanted to be in by July, so the shop brought the boat out of storage over the weekend and began summerizing it. And looking into my steering concern..... Well, I'm being told the transom assembly is shot with about 6" of play in it. So... my questions are : How do we prevent this from happening again ? Is it a common issue ? What might have caused it ? We bought the boat used and it "supposedly" had been serviced by the Chaparral dealer we bought it from. We had asked for the gimbal assembly, bellows, and boots to be done before we purchased the boat... and were told / shown on paper / that they were. I'm not sure if this is something that should have been discovered at that time or not. Doesn't matter now since we've had the boat for 5+ years. My concern is preventing it from happening again..... Also, is $6grand about right for this work ??? I simply do not have time to even consider doing it even with the ability to do so.... Just simply too busy at work and would rather pay for it to be done VS the boat not being used this season waiting for me to do it......... Thanks in advance everyone !!
  6. taperk600


    I've been using it in the boat, the sleds, the lawn mower, etc. Pretty much anything that could be effected by ethanol. The marina where I fill up is "supposed" to be ethanol free...... and I've been buying ethanol free "recreational" fuel for everything else since the local gas stations started carrying it. But I still run Starton just in case I guess.
  7. Wonder if it has to do with fresh water VS brackish .... salt content make a difference ?
  8. Thanks for all the feedback. Just for clarification on a few things......... Asking about which option not for top speed, but which option will give the best overall driveability / general overall best performance -- getting on plane, low speed cruising, etc. The single big block (8.1 Mag 375 hp) does very well in our 260 ... but the extra width, extra length, and EXTRA weight going to the 280 (for example) is why I'm wondering. I am luck enough that our slip is an end slip where we dock. SO 99% of the time, it's simple in that regards. We live on a lake that is just over 32 miles long and varies between 1 and 3 miles wide. So even at 28 feet, it would be a relatively small boat compared to most on the lake. We are also BoatUS members... for the "just in case" peace of mind. But have yet to have any need for the towing aspect of it. But the discount on fuel at a couple of the marinas is a welcome PLUS !! The 280s are a 9-3 beam... so maybe the twin big blocks wouldn't fit and that's why they were never offered. But the 6.2s would be a great option in my opinion ! The Formula I mentioned is a 31 footer with 9-6 beam... those extra 3 inches might be a world of difference in the engine bay..... But we are really happy with the 2 Chaparrals we've had and I think going to the 280 is the right move once I find the "right" one.
  9. Agree..... but adding joystick gets into much newer boats than I am expecting to be looking at. DTS might be the best level I can get to.....or at least justify at this time. Ideally, if I could find a end of model (2005 or 2006) 280 SSi with either the twin 6.2s or twin 8.1s (which I don't think was even an option), I would be extremely interested..... of course it would need the other "must haves" too.....
  10. So, as much as we love our 260SSi, and we honestly do.... I have a strong desire for a wider beam. Not necessarily longer, I'm happy with the length of our boat. But that will come with the territory I guess. I just think a little wider would make moving around the cockpit so much easier for all on board. So, since it looks like my options only start with boats like the 280 SSi , 276 SSi/SSx, 287 SSx or the similar...... I'd like to know what people think of looking at models with twin engines VS models with single. The 280 can be had either way, where the more "modern" 276 & 287 (I believe) are single engine only. And, yes, we are looking for bowrider boats as we are day-boaters and don't stay out overnight where a cuddy, etc would be useful. Of course, there are other makes/models too.... recently came across a Formula 310 BR with twin 496/B3-X Seacore powertrain..... But the basis of my question remains on twin VS single.....
  11. My wife is one of them..... you will never go hungry or thirsty that's for sure !! But at least she's ready to go when we set a time....... can't say the same for the other people most of the time.....
  12. Sorry, I didn't see this until now. Crashed about 830/9PM lastnight and out working at 530AM to be done early. And never got on until now..... We got out late waiting for everyone to get their "stuff" together.... And by "stuff" I do mean SH*T since I guess everyone wants to waste 1/2 of a beautiful day ...... ANYWAY.......We left south basin about 2. Southern LG was crazy busy as always on a nice Saturday, but so were the Narrows. Ended up anchored in the bay on the south side of Sabbath Day Point and were there until almost 7. Water was 81* there and it was a great day to just float......
  13. We'll be out tomorrow.... not sure where yet but probably southern part of the narrows.... If you are on tonight, drop a reply if you know where you are planning to be and we'll see if we can meet up.
  14. Started with a 17 ft'r as we were "only" getting a boat to get to dive sites..... That boat was bought in the fall of a season and it only lasted 2 trips before I was looking for something larger. Landed a killer deal on a 233 Sunesta partway through the next summer and the 17 ft'r became a lawn ornament until it found a new owner. Life was so much better with the 23 ft'r in all ways. Obviously with the extra length, but also the wider beam was huge. Took a few times out to adjust to the size increase, but not much. Storage for scuba tanks and other water sports equipment was never an issue on the 233, where on the 17 simply having 4 adults was tights not including anything else. And such a better ride all around. Anyway, tubing and wake boarding started happening more than diving off the boat, so I looked at "upgrades" to the 233 in order to fit what we were doing more of with the boat. I quickly determined that investing the money into the 233 to get a tower, larger swim platform, etc just wasn't worth it. Moved up to a 260 SSi. Not as drastic of a change going to the 26 from the 233 as going from the 17 to the 23 was, that's for sure. Same beam width, so nothing changed there. And the different cockpit layout of the 260 hid the extra length well so it wasn't noticeable when operating the boat. I feel the 260 is tons better then the 233 for tubing and wake boarding, not only because of the tower for wake boarding, but because of the 8.1 litre motor. As Cyclops said above, torque. But I also feel the 260 SSi hull is just a better hull design over the 233 Sunesta hull for water sports / "active" driving .... regardless of the extra length and weight. Long story to get to my point.... I (personally) wouldn't invest money in your current boat KNOWING you are going larger. If you are giving a larger boat some serious thought already, it's going to happen, so just put that money towards the new purchase. And I wouldn't be concerned with the move to the larger boat from an operational stand point either. The basics are the same, just be patient the 1st few times out with the new boat to get accustomed to it. It will feel like "home" in no time.
  15. Just a FYI... Lake George water surface temp is 81 degrees as measured off my swim platform with a pool thermometer today. In August it generally hovers right around the low 80s depending on where on the lake you are...... And the thermocline is deep right now... ruffly 30 ft.
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