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JPW

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About JPW

  • Birthday 07/27/1965

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    North East - Ohio
  • Interests
    Camping, boating, fishing, wakeboarding, computers

    and all things Family

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  1. JPW

    Can a TACO pull my 244 Sunesta?

    I also like the fact Toyota trucks are made in Texas. Ram's are mostly made in Mexico. But Rams are good, biggest complaint I have is they seem to rust much easier than many other brands. As an owner of a Nissan Armada, I have to laugh at the statement they are hot garbage. I agree. I will never buy another Nissan care or truck. They are not designed well. Like on my Armada, it's the V8 Titan frame, but most everything is UNDERBUILT. Small drive chain, weak transfer boxes, undersized brakes - the oil filter is the SAME oil filter used in my Honda CRV. (You want OVERSIZED, in a work truck. I've replaced and upgraded suspension, brakes, exhaust and such and I do like the tracdtion control system. I keep my Armada running and it gets the job done, but it really is a Soccer mom SUV, not for anybody that does much work with it. Nissan IMHO is the last brand of anything to own. Did I mention PARTS are really expensive in comparison?
  2. JPW

    Can a TACO pull my 244 Sunesta?

    Ya I did like the big truck, just it's hard to use the big truck as the daily driver fro me. Heck, I used to use my 40' Gulfstream DP -350HP Cat engine, freighliner chasis on 1000+ mile trips. Except for the remote camera I could not tell there was a 24 foot boat attached. One trip I had issues with the surge brake and it locked on. Did not noticed but lucky I got flagged down and stopped before serious damage. To finish the trip I took out one of the bleed screws and went without brakes. I know that sounds dangerous but had no issues with braking in that RV even without trailer brakes, I could not even tell the difference without them. Like I said going to keep the Armada for now. I've upgraded the suspension and brakes, had it detailed out and it's really all I need for now. I can't say I'd buy another one, but the v8 titan frame is fine for what I'm doing. Nissan is just to hard to get parts, most have to come from the dealer. I do my own work (have a garage and lift) and like afterfactory mods / upgrades. There are not a lot of (reasonably priced) upgrades for Armadas.
  3. If doing the light bulb trick Don't use a LED or CFL bulb - they throw very little heat. You need old fashioned incandescent bulbs. Also get you a ThermoPro Indoor Outdoor Thermometer (less than fifteen bucks on amazon) put the remote in the compartment and see how low you go!!
  4. Thinking out loud but up here in the North many folks put coolant line heaters on diesel engines. Most of these work on thermosiphon principle (passive heat exchange) and don't actually pump water. Generally sold as "Hotstart" systems. Perhaps there is a way to plumb one into your cooling lines. Much better than trying to trickle water thru them (and as noted won't get past thermostat) They sell these things on amazon - perhaps talk to the manufactures of a few and see. These things are usually not expensive - like $150 for a 1500watt system. From what you are saying you really don't get all that cold. You most likely would be just fine with any type of heat source down in the engine compartment. Light bulb, or simple magnetic block heater. Put in a remote thermostat in your engine compartment so you can easy monitor. Most of them also capture min/max so you can see what was going on. I don't know your boat but if your drain plugs are easy access then just pull them also. Off topic but related: Years ago when I lived outside of Minneapolis , (like 1991) I had my boat still in the water when a freak winter storm hit. Froze the lake and my dock. Dozens of others on Lake Minnetonka lost their boats to this storm. I put a simple small space heater in my engine compartment and ran it for the week or so. Put a few bags of salt around the hull to keep it from crushing. Temps went well below zero. When we went to pull the boat the ice was 6" thick. Took chainsaws, cut a small path. I don't remember the boat manufacture 22' cutty of somekind or another with a small block chevy engine / mercruiser. When ready it fired right up. Was able to manuaver the boat to the breakwall and pull it out onto the trailer. I got some great pictures of people standing on ice with chainsaws as we pulled the boat. Years later when I moved more south, I used to show it to people and say - here I am icefishing in Minnesota, it took forever to cut a hole big enough for the boat.
  5. JPW

    Can a TACO pull my 244 Sunesta?

    Thanks for the help guys. I've decided to keep the Armada for another year. Then will figure out more later. Agreed that a taco is not enough of a truck for safety. I need a bigger truck or a smaller boat. Now that the kids are off to school, a smaller boat may be better.
  6. I presently use an Armada to tow, but the old gal is getting long in the tooth, and its time to get something new. I know a Toyota Tundra for sure can haul my Senesta, but I'll be honest I like the smaller Tacoma (aka Taco) a bit better for my daily driver. My2008 244 Sunesta xtream book tells me dryweight is 4400lbs. I figure the trailer is another 1,000 - then another 1000 for fuel/gear. That's 6400 Book on a new Tacoma (with tow package) is 6400lbs 640 tongue weight and it comes with a ATF cooler. Thus I'm right at the limit using gorilla math. I don't haul the boat a lot and not long distances. What you guys think - am I cutting it too close with a TACO?
  7. Ha - ONLY 218H on my girl. She mostly is a mobile on-the water cooler / stereo. I motor about 20 feet offshore and we all stand around her in the water off the beach.
  8. Sweet - and thanks. it was hidden in the smartcraft gauge. OUtstanding. many thanks
  9. I've got a Chap 2008 244 SUNESTA EXTREME It has the perfect pass ski system I've never been able to find engine hours meter - is there something hidden. I've never been able to find one on any of the gauges or looking in the manual.
  10. Selling my 2008 SUNESTA 224 XTREME, need to take a year off, but then upgrading. I've put on craigslist here in Ohio but where else should I list it?
  11. 2008 Chap 244 Xtream. My wake tower has a Bimini top on it. It's getting pretty beat up and looking to get new canvas. I do not have a Chap dealer anywhere near me. Anyone recommend on-line location to get a replacement canvas made?
  12. JPW

    Pulling 244 behind my RV issues

    i know e-trailer sells a few of those E over H kits. Around 700 deer for parts. Install looks pretty easy, but then need to put electric controls in everything I own that tows. Also no way to get rid of the old actuator without some welding. I don't have a lot of hillls where I tow. That seems to be the biggest issue for surge. Without that surge is actually pretty reliable. Right now after doing my research thinking that my Actuator is getting old. It's one of those A-84 UFP Trailer Buddy. Looks like a quality actuator, but I did get this boat/trailer used and the guy I bought it from did tell me that while he took great care of the boat, he clearly neglected the trailer as it was only used for winter storage. I may just replace the actuator. That would be a :30min job.
  13. JPW

    Pulling 244 behind my RV issues

    Yes I think electric over hydraulic is the way I need to go. Surge brakes are fine for local but for any distance I can't rely on them anymore. I was so concerned about overheat it make me too stress and the drive was no fun. Had these darn breaks lock up on my 400miles into this trip - going UP A HILL. New pads on this trip and you swear they had 20K miles on them already. Tons of brake dust. I think that behind the RV for some reason the surge piston gets confused, or the fact that the RV does not rock or move like a truck does. The surge gets stuck on. I feel lucky I make it this time. Any recommendations on trailers?
  14. JPW

    Pulling 244 behind my RV issues

    Just going to add that I put new calipers on last year.
  15. We take the 244 chap sunsesta (xtreme) with us camping. I have a class a diesel RV built on a freightliner chassis. Been doing this for 4 years now. The long annual trip we take about 1k miles with the boat. I am a stickler for trailer maintenance and replace and/or repack bearings ever year. I never had any issues towing with my Nissan armada but always seem to have issues with brakes when towing behind the RV. I don't tow with the Nissan very far but the issues I have with the RV on longer trips is overheating causes by excessive braking. This SST trailer has a surge brake and dual axel disk brakes. When attached to the RV I am true level. The emergency brake lock wire has plenty of play. I just can't figure out why the brakes overheat. This last trip after 100 miles I stopped and using thermal temp hubs were over250 deg. Then later in the trip after stopping and checking again the brakes went on again and I had a nasty overheat with the grease blowing off the brake buddy caps and I had to stop again. Brake dust everywhere. This time I took out the bleeder screws on the caliper and finished the trip with no brakes. No further heat issues. My RV did not notice the braking difference for normal driving but of course I want brakes on my trailer. I know it is something with the surge piston but just wondering if these surge brakes just don't work well behind a large RV. Thinking I may have to switch to electric brakes. Any thoughts?
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