JPW

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Everything posted by JPW

  1. Ha - ONLY 218H on my girl. She mostly is a mobile on-the water cooler / stereo. I motor about 20 feet offshore and we all stand around her in the water off the beach.
  2. I've got a Chap 2008 244 SUNESTA EXTREME It has the perfect pass ski system I've never been able to find engine hours meter - is there something hidden. I've never been able to find one on any of the gauges or looking in the manual.
  3. Sweet - and thanks. it was hidden in the smartcraft gauge. OUtstanding. many thanks
  4. Selling my 2008 SUNESTA 224 XTREME, need to take a year off, but then upgrading. I've put on craigslist here in Ohio but where else should I list it?
  5. Mounting a Lowrance HDI 83/200 transducer on my 24 Chap Sunesta Getting a lot of conflicting information on the net as well as talking to Lowrance directly. The issue is I do NOT want to drill a 1” hole in the back of my boat. They require a 1” hole as that is the size of the plug. My boat has a swim platform on the back and there is no easy place to put this hole above the water line. I want a much smaller hole. I want to cut the cable and then re-splice it. Lots of folks are telling me I can’t do that, that cutting the cable will cause bad voodoo or something. I also want to extend the cable. A cable extension kit is like $50, for 12’ of wire. While it’s not the money it’s just that since I am going to cut the wire I should be able to splice in some extra wire. I assume that this cable has shielded wire. Can’t I just splice in some 18/4 Awg Shielded Speaker Wire? On the splices I need to be sure to solder correctly and put some foil back as shielding. Anybody has any issues? ALSO - or separate question, for the wire that is running on the outside of the boat, any suggestions on how to secure that wire down to the outside of the hull?
  6. 2008 Chap 244 Xtream. My wake tower has a Bimini top on it. It's getting pretty beat up and looking to get new canvas. I do not have a Chap dealer anywhere near me. Anyone recommend on-line location to get a replacement canvas made?
  7. We take the 244 chap sunsesta (xtreme) with us camping. I have a class a diesel RV built on a freightliner chassis. Been doing this for 4 years now. The long annual trip we take about 1k miles with the boat. I am a stickler for trailer maintenance and replace and/or repack bearings ever year. I never had any issues towing with my Nissan armada but always seem to have issues with brakes when towing behind the RV. I don't tow with the Nissan very far but the issues I have with the RV on longer trips is overheating causes by excessive braking. This SST trailer has a surge brake and dual axel disk brakes. When attached to the RV I am true level. The emergency brake lock wire has plenty of play. I just can't figure out why the brakes overheat. This last trip after 100 miles I stopped and using thermal temp hubs were over250 deg. Then later in the trip after stopping and checking again the brakes went on again and I had a nasty overheat with the grease blowing off the brake buddy caps and I had to stop again. Brake dust everywhere. This time I took out the bleeder screws on the caliper and finished the trip with no brakes. No further heat issues. My RV did not notice the braking difference for normal driving but of course I want brakes on my trailer. I know it is something with the surge piston but just wondering if these surge brakes just don't work well behind a large RV. Thinking I may have to switch to electric brakes. Any thoughts?
  8. i know e-trailer sells a few of those E over H kits. Around 700 deer for parts. Install looks pretty easy, but then need to put electric controls in everything I own that tows. Also no way to get rid of the old actuator without some welding. I don't have a lot of hillls where I tow. That seems to be the biggest issue for surge. Without that surge is actually pretty reliable. Right now after doing my research thinking that my Actuator is getting old. It's one of those A-84 UFP Trailer Buddy. Looks like a quality actuator, but I did get this boat/trailer used and the guy I bought it from did tell me that while he took great care of the boat, he clearly neglected the trailer as it was only used for winter storage. I may just replace the actuator. That would be a :30min job.
  9. Yes I think electric over hydraulic is the way I need to go. Surge brakes are fine for local but for any distance I can't rely on them anymore. I was so concerned about overheat it make me too stress and the drive was no fun. Had these darn breaks lock up on my 400miles into this trip - going UP A HILL. New pads on this trip and you swear they had 20K miles on them already. Tons of brake dust. I think that behind the RV for some reason the surge piston gets confused, or the fact that the RV does not rock or move like a truck does. The surge gets stuck on. I feel lucky I make it this time. Any recommendations on trailers?
  10. Just going to add that I put new calipers on last year.
  11. mertzerHey Mertzer, I ended up going with the Lowrance Elite 4 HDI - For under 300 deer, it has both downscan and sounder, GPS, maps, water temp and is a small color screen. These 244 do not have a lot of room to mount, so small screen. I went ahead and just used the factory included 83/200 transducer. Drilled a 1" hole right where the transom connects to the swim platform on the starboard side. On the port side there is a drain hole, so I just went opposite of that hole. To refill the 1" hole I saved the fiberglass plug, and after running the wire, chipped it out to make room for the cord, then stuck the plug back in. Coated everything up with some 4200 quick bond. I was going to put a claim shell cover over the hole, but all of this is in a location nobody can see so not going to worry about it. After doing this, I'm still not happy about drilling a 1" hole in my boat, but it's not so bad. I'm short deer right now or perhaps I would have seen about replacing the thru hull OE transducer with the one from Lowarance. If that one would fit in the same mount as the OE one, then that would be a better way to go.
  12. Lowarance told me downscan is impaired and generally does not work with shoot-thru hull method, for their transducers. My 244 xtreame came with two thru hull sensors, one is a transducer for depth and the 2nd is a paddle-wheel for speed. I was going to perhaps replace the depth for a HDI transducer, but did not finish the research on if this possible.
  13. I also have a 244 xtreme and putting in a Lowrance hybrid dual imaging (downscan and sounder). As an aside my boat has a factory installed thru hull transducer, and I think yours should also. There are two thru hull sensors one for depth and the other speed. Look in your engine area right behind the gas tank. I was thinking of replacing that with a full HD thru hull sounder for my lowrance. Talking to Lowrance they make one that would work for ~400 deer. You may be able to directly replace the OE with a better one for use via your fish finder. Others have reported better performance with transom mounted than thru-hull, but for me I suspect it's personal preference. An IN-hull will not allow downscan imaging or water temp. When the boat is in the water there is nobody to see this sensor, and it seems easy enough to install, so going to just go with transom mounted. There is some pics of what others have done in the thread I started last week: http://forum.chaparralboats.com/index.php?showtopic=25684
  14. I'm not an expert on drilling fiberglass. I think a bi-metal will be fine, but suspect carbide tipped would be better but 1" is not a size I can find in carbide. Run the drill backwards a bit to get the groves going, painters tape. Good suggestions.
  15. I've spliced extensions before for other applications, the trick is you have to fully shield the wire again after solder, and then heat shrink wrap the wire. However, I found that Eagle brand extensions match Lowrance, and got one, also ordered some 4200 fast cure Looks just easier to drill the 1" hole and clam shell like some of you guys did. Also I don't have any 5 wire shielded cable handy. Need to hit the hardware store for some p-clips, stainless steel screws and a 1" drill bi-metal hole saw many thanks -jp
  16. You an run on muffs. As long as you have good pressure. The Seloc manual recommends flushing after boating to clean or if in sea water. If you are not sure how to wintertize perhaps pay your marina this year but ask them to tell you how as part of the deal. If this is new boat is there any warranty service from the dealer? Good time to get winterized as we'll Ask them what they are doing
  17. This is on my 2008 244 Sunesta bravo drive. I will do annual maintenance (oil, lube, etc) at a later date. Right now just want to make sure I get freeze protection in the engine. I removed the thermostat, put the muffs on, fired up the engine and gravity feed (from a big bucket) ~5 galls of RV antifreeze. Antifreeze was clearly flowing out the exhaust. I think there is a fuel and power searing coolers. I can’t really see if there is drain plugs on them, design is difficult to get near the engine down there. Do I need to do anything else for protection or am I covered for freeze? many thanks in advance
  18. I did a fresh water system years ago, on an old 20' cutty I had. I did it with a 12v RV pump under an old cooler with a 2nd hand shower head - the key for the shower head is it shut off with just a press of a button. A RV type shower head needs off/on valves.. The hose from the pump to shower head is nothing more than plastic tubing (think home depo. The tank can be many different things - just mostly something that fits neatly in the space you have allocated for it. An old cooler, or 5gal gas can- whatever.
  19. I debated as you did and ended up going with the 244. I am very glad I did. For us we don't use the head as much as a toilet but it comes in nice as a little changing area, not to mention it is dry storage for rain. Yes in emergencies a toilet is really important. I changed from the vac-flush toilet to a stand-along camper one (it was like $140 at the camping store) - as a stand alone is just much easier for me. Switching was really a 5 min job. IF you have kids and/or women then a toilet really helps the day go easier without runs to the marina. Sink is really nice. Rinse off hands from so many sticky things kids have - not to mention worm dirt and 100's of other things. I did not think how useful it is, but also it gives a nice storage space and trash compartment. On a boat there is never 'too much' room (unless it is out of the water). Having the extra space means everybody can go. For me once I sat in a 244, there was no way I was going to go smaller. Bottom line is if you can afford it, its worth it to go bigger.
  20. My analog speed is showing correct but my perfectpass shows a mph that is about 30% below actual Feels like a setting issue on the perfectpass but I can't seem to find one. Any suggestions? Tks JP
  21. Just a bit of follow up as I found out how to do this. My perfectpass was displaying 30% less than the boats own speedometer. I know boat analog gagues are incorrect but not 30% off and the Perfectpass should be showing the same speed as the boat's gauge. I also use a GARMIN GPS for real speed. I found out: This perfectpass gets an input from the paddlewheel and there is a paddlwwheel FActor (shows up as PW on screen) to calibrate.. There is a "Speedo Cal" Screen accessed by pressing the DOWN key with the > highlighted on the main wakeboard screen. Then press UP/down to adjust. It needs to be reset after a system RESET has been preformed.
  22. First time out this year. End of season last year, local marina did a winterization service. They also recommend and preformed a change of waterpump impeller. I’m a bit newbie as to how this cooling system works. Issue is today is the first day I;ve had a change to get the boat out. I drop it and then head out into the lake. After about 2min notice a ‘raddle’ from the engine. Then the heat sensor overload goes off. Engine shuts down. I open the engine compartment and see that there is water coming in from a red hose on the lower starboard side of the engine. It’s some type of union joint, that is not sealed properly. I Push it together but it does not seem to be the best joint in the world, especially for a fitting that is below the water line. Water leak stops. Engine is totally overheated, wont restart. Taking the blue plug up by the thermostat off, and we get a big gush of steam. We got towed it in and letting it cool down overnight. The boat is in the lake and I’m in a bit of a remote location but right now. I think now that that red hose did not allow water to come in, and now the block is dry. I’ll need to take some of the hoses off and prime them with water. Then try again. Am I doing the right things? I’m worried that my dealer did not do a proper winterization, or impeller change. In the least they did not reattach this red hose properly and wondering if there was even anti-freeze in there. Should I leave that blue plug out or even take the thermostat out? Many thanks for your suggestions Tks - jp 2006 244 Senesta – Mercruiser 350
  23. I found a full water pump assembly. Issue now is that nobody has a pulley. Have to have one brought in for Monday. Looks like the pump seized and then busted the pully. I was at a local autozone trying to parts match the pully to a car power steering pully but can't find a shaft that matches. If anybody knows a parts match please let me know Not sure about exhaust tubes and flappers. I'm in a remote area of Michigan near Mackanaw and just need to get this running again. What would be issues if these parts are bad due to overheat? Generally I like to do my own work but with new job and other things have not had time to do is boat myself. Really upset that a pro dealer (near Akron, OH) would do this to me. I can see exactualy what they did. When replacing the impeller they took off the seawall hose which has a quick fitting. When putting the fitting back on they did not put it in 100%, but still pushed the u pin in place. This allowed some water to flow especially when at low RPM. Thus no warrings or issues when i did my low speed testing. But when I throttled up the first time allowed air in and things fell apart.
  24. Yes I know now the impeller is in that water pump. It is seized. Now looking around for a new water pump housing. I csnt take this back to the dealer (that is over 300mils). Going to get it out of the water and find a part. No dealer in this area has a full housing. Have to ship one in. Going to replace the housing and find a pulley to press on I don't Think just a new impeller is going to fix this as it is seized