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JPW

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Everything posted by JPW

  1. EWK 6L they are like $50 on the amazon. I've had one for years. Use it for boat lawn mowers etc.
  2. I just put my boat in storage, so I don't have easy access to it. One of my twin blowers died this year. I think they are 3" but not sure does this boat use 3 or 4 inch blowers? Ordering a replacement.
  3. stalling at idle and rough running are for sure symptoms of a bad crank sensor. However,WOT loss of power is generally not a bad crank sensor., that's fuel/filter - perhaps distributor cap ignition wires, etc. Yet your boat is 2016 - those sensors are pretty simple things perhaps its wiring/plug from the sensor. Check to make sure no issues with the sensor wire or breaks in the wire.. Don't worry about pulling the belt -its super easy, only takes two wrenches (16mm & 8MM on the tensor pulley) - mercruiser belts are not tightened very tight - just take a picture to remember
  4. I don't get the 2007 244 Sunesta out that much anymore. Yet still love it and use it a few times a year, but only getting like 30H on the engine each year. In the past every winter I'd drop it off at a local mech and they would do yearly maintenance and winterize. Then I caught them cheating me and not doing work they charged me for. Thus for the past 4 years or so I've just done everything myself. My boat has the 300HP Mercuriser 350 mpi Every year I do an oil/filter change and a new thermostat (just easy as I remove it to winterize.) Then I also change the cool fuel filte
  5. This year my boat is not doing as well on the holeshot. My top end WOT is still the same at ~4400, but it's just the initial power start (when pulling a skier up or tuber start.) Feels like I've got a lot more weight in my boat (but I don't.) Got the Mercurcisuer Max 350 (300HP) and the bravo 3 drive. What things should I be looking at?
  6. I also like the fact Toyota trucks are made in Texas. Ram's are mostly made in Mexico. But Rams are good, biggest complaint I have is they seem to rust much easier than many other brands. As an owner of a Nissan Armada, I have to laugh at the statement they are hot garbage. I agree. I will never buy another Nissan care or truck. They are not designed well. Like on my Armada, it's the V8 Titan frame, but most everything is UNDERBUILT. Small drive chain, weak transfer boxes, undersized brakes - the oil filter is the SAME oil filter used in my Honda CRV. (You want OVERSIZED, in a w
  7. Ya I did like the big truck, just it's hard to use the big truck as the daily driver fro me. Heck, I used to use my 40' Gulfstream DP -350HP Cat engine, freighliner chasis on 1000+ mile trips. Except for the remote camera I could not tell there was a 24 foot boat attached. One trip I had issues with the surge brake and it locked on. Did not noticed but lucky I got flagged down and stopped before serious damage. To finish the trip I took out one of the bleed screws and went without brakes. I know that sounds dangerous but had no issues with braking in that RV even with
  8. If doing the light bulb trick Don't use a LED or CFL bulb - they throw very little heat. You need old fashioned incandescent bulbs. Also get you a ThermoPro Indoor Outdoor Thermometer (less than fifteen bucks on amazon) put the remote in the compartment and see how low you go!!
  9. Thinking out loud but up here in the North many folks put coolant line heaters on diesel engines. Most of these work on thermosiphon principle (passive heat exchange) and don't actually pump water. Generally sold as "Hotstart" systems. Perhaps there is a way to plumb one into your cooling lines. Much better than trying to trickle water thru them (and as noted won't get past thermostat) They sell these things on amazon - perhaps talk to the manufactures of a few and see. These things are usually not expensive - like $150 for a 1500watt system. From what you are saying you
  10. Thanks for the help guys. I've decided to keep the Armada for another year. Then will figure out more later. Agreed that a taco is not enough of a truck for safety. I need a bigger truck or a smaller boat. Now that the kids are off to school, a smaller boat may be better.
  11. I presently use an Armada to tow, but the old gal is getting long in the tooth, and its time to get something new. I know a Toyota Tundra for sure can haul my Senesta, but I'll be honest I like the smaller Tacoma (aka Taco) a bit better for my daily driver. My2008 244 Sunesta xtream book tells me dryweight is 4400lbs. I figure the trailer is another 1,000 - then another 1000 for fuel/gear. That's 6400 Book on a new Tacoma (with tow package) is 6400lbs 640 tongue weight and it comes with a ATF cooler. Thus I'm right at the limit using gorilla math. I don't haul the boat
  12. Ha - ONLY 218H on my girl. She mostly is a mobile on-the water cooler / stereo. I motor about 20 feet offshore and we all stand around her in the water off the beach.
  13. Sweet - and thanks. it was hidden in the smartcraft gauge. OUtstanding. many thanks
  14. I've got a Chap 2008 244 SUNESTA EXTREME It has the perfect pass ski system I've never been able to find engine hours meter - is there something hidden. I've never been able to find one on any of the gauges or looking in the manual.
  15. Selling my 2008 SUNESTA 224 XTREME, need to take a year off, but then upgrading. I've put on craigslist here in Ohio but where else should I list it?
  16. 2008 Chap 244 Xtream. My wake tower has a Bimini top on it. It's getting pretty beat up and looking to get new canvas. I do not have a Chap dealer anywhere near me. Anyone recommend on-line location to get a replacement canvas made?
  17. i know e-trailer sells a few of those E over H kits. Around 700 deer for parts. Install looks pretty easy, but then need to put electric controls in everything I own that tows. Also no way to get rid of the old actuator without some welding. I don't have a lot of hillls where I tow. That seems to be the biggest issue for surge. Without that surge is actually pretty reliable. Right now after doing my research thinking that my Actuator is getting old. It's one of those A-84 UFP Trailer Buddy. Looks like a quality actuator, but I did get this boat/trailer used and the guy I bought it fro
  18. Yes I think electric over hydraulic is the way I need to go. Surge brakes are fine for local but for any distance I can't rely on them anymore. I was so concerned about overheat it make me too stress and the drive was no fun. Had these darn breaks lock up on my 400miles into this trip - going UP A HILL. New pads on this trip and you swear they had 20K miles on them already. Tons of brake dust. I think that behind the RV for some reason the surge piston gets confused, or the fact that the RV does not rock or move like a truck does. The surge gets stuck on. I feel lucky I make it this tim
  19. Just going to add that I put new calipers on last year.
  20. We take the 244 chap sunsesta (xtreme) with us camping. I have a class a diesel RV built on a freightliner chassis. Been doing this for 4 years now. The long annual trip we take about 1k miles with the boat. I am a stickler for trailer maintenance and replace and/or repack bearings ever year. I never had any issues towing with my Nissan armada but always seem to have issues with brakes when towing behind the RV. I don't tow with the Nissan very far but the issues I have with the RV on longer trips is overheating causes by excessive braking. This SST trailer has a surge brake and dual
  21. mertzerHey Mertzer, I ended up going with the Lowrance Elite 4 HDI - For under 300 deer, it has both downscan and sounder, GPS, maps, water temp and is a small color screen. These 244 do not have a lot of room to mount, so small screen. I went ahead and just used the factory included 83/200 transducer. Drilled a 1" hole right where the transom connects to the swim platform on the starboard side. On the port side there is a drain hole, so I just went opposite of that hole. To refill the 1" hole I saved the fiberglass plug, and after running the wire, chipped it out to make room for the cord
  22. Lowarance told me downscan is impaired and generally does not work with shoot-thru hull method, for their transducers. My 244 xtreame came with two thru hull sensors, one is a transducer for depth and the 2nd is a paddle-wheel for speed. I was going to perhaps replace the depth for a HDI transducer, but did not finish the research on if this possible.
  23. I also have a 244 xtreme and putting in a Lowrance hybrid dual imaging (downscan and sounder). As an aside my boat has a factory installed thru hull transducer, and I think yours should also. There are two thru hull sensors one for depth and the other speed. Look in your engine area right behind the gas tank. I was thinking of replacing that with a full HD thru hull sounder for my lowrance. Talking to Lowrance they make one that would work for ~400 deer. You may be able to directly replace the OE with a better one for use via your fish finder. Others have reported better performance with t
  24. I'm not an expert on drilling fiberglass. I think a bi-metal will be fine, but suspect carbide tipped would be better but 1" is not a size I can find in carbide. Run the drill backwards a bit to get the groves going, painters tape. Good suggestions.
  25. I've spliced extensions before for other applications, the trick is you have to fully shield the wire again after solder, and then heat shrink wrap the wire. However, I found that Eagle brand extensions match Lowrance, and got one, also ordered some 4200 fast cure Looks just easier to drill the 1" hole and clam shell like some of you guys did. Also I don't have any 5 wire shielded cable handy. Need to hit the hardware store for some p-clips, stainless steel screws and a 1" drill bi-metal hole saw many thanks -jp
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