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951Tom

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    Chesapeake Bay, MD

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  1. Yes, there are two senders for each drive. One for the trim limit and one for the gauge. If the gauge sender goes bad your gauge will not work.
  2. It's definitely a diy job. I replaced mine a couple years ago as the reference electrode wears out. I also found green corrosion where the wire insulation had split. The control unit should be mounted on top of the engine. Remove the plastic cover and you should see it. The hardest part is fishing the wires up and thru the transom assembly. The manual has the procedure and the dimensions to bend a coat hanger to assist in routing the wire. The unit should come with the wire harness (#10) pictured in your diagram. I also replaced the control unit with the new style. They now have an LED indicator/status light telling you if the system is working or if a fault exists.
  3. Maryland has prohibited recreational boating til further notice. Really sucks because normally I'd be ready to launch by now. I haven't even started my Spring work.
  4. I replaced mine last year with Shields Series 402 like dan02gt mentioned as it's what Chaparral uses. Mine was original and looked old. Definitely get bilge blower hose as it's fire retardant and ozone resistant. The internal wire is anodized so it doesn't rust. Get the correct hose for the application since safety related.
  5. Looks real nice Hatem and looks to be a perfect fit. It will definitely pay for itself so you made right choice. I broke even after my 2nd winter so no regrets here.
  6. I used Permatex water-pump sealant on the gaskets. Not much, just smeared some on each side. If accessible, a rubber strap wrench can hold the pulley or possibly just the belt tension. When mine went, I was getting an intermittent jingle bell type noise that got worse.
  7. You gonna DIY? A great trick I did was make threaded studs for re-assembly. They’ll hold the heavy manifold in place for you while at same time keeping the gasket correctly aligned. Then replace one stud at a time with the bolt & torque it down. Cut a screwdriver slot on one end of the stud to make it an easy job.
  8. While filling, shouldn't blowers be off as to not pull in any gas fumes? This was always my reasoning. Then I’ll run them while paying the bill. Where I get gas, if your motor won’t start afterwards, you’re not allowed to even go into your bilge. They move you to a slip to await your tow-boat. They had a bad situation awhile back with a gentleman using a can of starter fluid.
  9. I know what you mean about the box lol, doubt I could re-pack it either but I saved it just in case. I'd say definitely add support poles in your bow area (and maybe stern) to prevent it sagging and filling with water. My cover reaches over the rear swim platform so that helps too. I do like to go out & check on things to clear snow build up if we get a blizzard or something bad. But the usual mid-atlantic storms don't require me to go to the boat every time it snows. I imagine areas with significant snowfall might be better with shrink-wrapping if you want 100% maintenance & trouble free all winter and can't get to the boat for months at a time. Any amount of rain is a non-issue. It took me a few visits to get my set-up figured out & effective . Like occasionally one of the bow poles would fall over so I added TaylorMade's large rubber base pad that swivels to better fit the slope of the bow. That fixed the issue.
  10. Hatem snow hasn’t been an issue unless we get like a foot of the wet heavy type. Then I’ll use a roof snow rake to easily clear it. Most of the time the snow is melted by time I arrive at the boat. This will be my 4th winter with the cover & its held up very well & will definitely last more than the 10yr rating. There are tie straps, a draw string & ratcheting cinch so you can make it tight to the hull. I added pole vents - 2 on bow & 2 in cockpit. These prevent the “swimming pool effect” during rains & snow melts & keeps everything taught. The height of an arch will definitely help to maintain a “tent” to shed water/snow. Shrinkwrap does shed the best but I got tired of $400+ a pop only to toss it in spring. The damp-rid container will get an inch or so of water. I like to change the dessicant mid-winter as the refill bags are inexpensive & eliminates the smells.
  11. We basically wanted the same. Nice radio to play music while anchored. I went with a marine Kenwood unit, speakers, and helm mounted remote. If you get their basic helm remote, you can use the existing wiring for the control signal as no special harness required. For the factory JVC radio, my boat had a small harness that then connected to a Molex connector. I just unplugged it and spliced it to the new radio's harness easy. For XM, we stream it with the phone app via Bluetooth, but it has the capability. There's also a Kenwood app that gives good functionality. I felt like most of the radios had the same features, you just go by which one looks the coolest lol. rreale, I believe the 32ft range is only over wide open spaces. Passing thru multiple layers of wood and fiberglass will lessen that range.
  12. I do the same but pull the main fuse for the engine computer. That way you can crank it and watch the oil pressure gauge rise.
  13. I went with a Sunbrella exact fit cover and added multiple pole vents to prevent sagging & allow air-flow. I never have a mold problem and place a damp-rid container in the cabin. I shrink-wrapped my first 3 winters and looking back I wish I had just bought the cover. The cost of those 3 shrink-wraps would have paid for my cover.
  14. Hard to tell from your pic what I'm looking at. Does it have a forward bilge pump under the cabin steps?
  15. Check out www.fpmarine.com under the plastics section. They had the upper & lower slides for my 2000.
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