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canuck1

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About canuck1

  • Birthday 07/30/1965

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Victoria BC, CANADA
  • Interests
    family, old cars, hockey, skiing

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  1. canuck1

    2001 196 SSi

    When you say "leaking out of the bilge", is it oil sheen on the water that you are noticing or can you see fluid in the bilge that is actually finding its way into the water? I have experience with the seals on my trim cylinders failing which showed up as an oily sheen on the surface of the water behind the boat. I replaced them rather than rebuild but there are people who've taken on the job of rebuilding them using kits available online. Sean
  2. canuck1

    replace serpentine belt on the water?

    Thanks, I didn't have far to go, idled it in all the way and didn't see any overheat indications. It's been running well since, in any case. I was just curious, since I didn't feel eminently qualified to answer Makolab's question about possible engine damage associated with losing the serpentine belt while underway. Judging by your answer, I guess it's fair to say it's not an instantly catastrophic situation but one that needs to be remedied ASAP, before running the engine under load again. Sean
  3. canuck1

    replace serpentine belt on the water?

    Hey Texaspilot71, No worries! Thanks for chiming in Wingnut. I made an assumption about the raw water pump on my engine. I looked at how it worked and surmised that it doesn't rely on the belt to drive it. Is that correct? I know the circulating pump requires the belt. What's the prognosis for someone continuing to run their boat when the circulating pump quits due to a belt failing? Sean
  4. canuck1

    replace serpentine belt on the water?

    Hi Texaspilot71, I am happy to defer to someone with more experience but I just looked in my Volvo engine service manual. I'm confusing terms by calling it an engine water pump, Volvo alternately refers to it as either the circulating pump or simply, the water pump. As far as where it's located, if you can see the belt routing diagram above I posted earlier in this thread (2013), then you can see the raw water pump (the assembly mounted on the front of the crank pulley with a pair of coolant fittings coming out) as number 20 in the diagram. Above it is the pulley that drives the circulating pump, number 19 in the diagram. I believe all engines of this type (unless closed cooling system) require both a raw water pump AND a circulating pump. Sean
  5. canuck1

    replace serpentine belt on the water?

    I'm NO expert and I can only relate my own experience, so your mileage may vary, but I think the "raw water pump" is crank driven (doesn't require the belt). The engine water pump is responsible for circulating water through the engine's coolant passages and does depend on the belt being in place to do its job. I did run my boat beltless for 1/2 a mile or so (at basically idle speed) without any significant increase in water temp showing on my gauges. I'm sure its not recommended but the Captain gets to make that call and I did it! I doubt the raw water pump does much more than supply cooling water as far as the engine water pump intake though, so I would think if you raised engine RPM or even ran it for more than a brief period of time at idle, you will likely overheat the engine. There were a few recalls related to a specific part # of tensioners for some Volvo engines. Turned out mine wasn't one of them but tensioners are a wear item and, (along with the low quality OEM belt Volvo installs at the factory) one of the biggest causes of serpentine belt related failures. Tensioners, as well as belts should be examined as part of annual maintenance and replaced as required. A Goodyear Gatorback or even the newer generation Volvo brand belts are better than what the factory used when my boat was new. Sean
  6. canuck1

    190ssi hole shot

    Boggy, thank you for updating with your (successful) changes. Too many of these threads just disappear without any form of resolution. I appreciate the data your experience adds. Sean
  7. canuck1

    Oxidation

    What do you guys do about accessing those hard to get into areas like under the corner of the extended swim platform at the back of the hull? My stern points toward the sun when docked and I have one corner of the boat (just under one corner of the ESP) that oxidizes/discolors more than anywhere else due to the sun. Is rubbing compound (hand-applied) likely to be sufficient in that area and/or will it be noticeably different if I use a buffer on the remainder of the colored hull section? Polish and wax still seem to do the job for most of the hull but one corner needs a little something more. I just wasn't sure if I could do it with hand-applied rubbing compound, since I can't get my buffer in under the ESP corner where it needs it most: Sean
  8. canuck1

    Hull years?

    I'm not sure. Is it this one? Sean
  9. canuck1

    Dual Battery Upgrade for a 215 SSi Cuddy

    That does help, thanks! I get that you want maximum flexibility in the event of a serious battery failure beyond simply running it flat. I have struggled to understand the function of the ACR and how they work and thought I'd figured it out. When I read this post I was convinced I had missed something. Now I see that you are simply ensuring you have a third option if wearing belts and suspenders isn't enough! Seems simple enough to do but does insert an added level of complexity for electrically challenged people like me. Sean
  10. canuck1

    Dual Battery Upgrade for a 215 SSi Cuddy

    I can't view the pics on Photobucket for some reason... Can you explain your reasoning for keeping the original single battery switch after adding the 2 battery switch? I have added a battery using Blue Sea's Add a battery kit (includes ACR) but I'm not following why you might want to further isolate the primary (?) battery with an additional switch. In what circumstance would it be desirable to be able to choose to "start your engine from a single battery alone"? I'm an electrical novice, thus the beginner questions! Hopefully someone can explain so my simple mind comprehends!? Sean
  11. Just to confirm, what is your current final drive ratio (tag is on the back of the drive unit)? If it is much lower than 1.6 something, you may not be able to get to 5000 rpm without a very long, flat run, perfect trim etc.. I know its a crazy long shot but you do run in a place where the locals believe in a mythical sea monster!!! Och aye the noo!! Sean
  12. canuck1

    Ski Mirror Recommendations?

    I installed the Cipa Comp 7 x 14 mirror this year. I had a Monster, tower mounted mirror before that but removed my tower since my kids and I seem to enjoy skiiing more and don't use the tower anymore. The Cipa replacement is nearly as good as the tower mounted model, just have to get used to it being mounted over the passenger side of the windshield instead of driver's side (higher up). Sean
  13. canuck1

    SX-A trim pump

    I don't know what gear oil looks like in the water but I know that when my trim cylinder first showed signs of leaking, I thought it might be FUEL/petrol too. See here: http://forum.chaparralboats.com/index.php?showtopic=17035&hl=%2Bfuel+%2Btrim+%2Bleak#entry206844 Sean
  14. canuck1

    SX-A trim pump

    If it is the original equipment pump assembly, I would replace it with the newer style unit to avoid hassles in the future (it WILL fail). I went through this with mine. Replaced a leaking trim cylinder one year, pump the next. The original pump assembly design is poor and the hardware is inadequate. Replacing the pump assembly with the newer version will eliminate many of the possible o-ring/hose end leaks as well as the suspect plastic components that inevitably leak. In my mind it's a poor location for something that might need service on the water. Unfortunately, I don't think you can fix that!! Sean
  15. canuck1

    waketower decisions

    I had the dealer put a Monster MT1 tower on my 2008 190SSi. It's available, relatively inexpensive, functional, service and available accessories are all good but not nearly as pretty or versatile as a factory or higher end aftermarket brand. Here is a picture: I asked the dealer who mounted it to place it so I can still put the bimini top up. I can fully deploy the bimini but it covers the tower's tow point so they are an either/or thing depending on your need for shade vs. wakeboarding in my case. I think(?) factory towers let you do both. On the plus side, it does the job fine, (did I say it's relatively inexpensive?), it folds down and is also easily removable if you store your boat under a standard cover and don't want to adapt it to fit the tower supports. I've never really liked the look of it but I had it installed when I bought it as my first boat and didn't really understand some of the advantages that go along with the higher price of factory and/or higher end towers. Live and learn! Sean
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