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About canuck1

  • Birthday 07/30/1965

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Victoria BC, CANADA
  • Interests
    family, old cars, hockey, skiing

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  1. After our first lake test: I still have the Chap 190, but it looks like its going to another boater at our marina. Its been a good value, introduction to boating for me. I''m grateful for its useful and dependable service! Sean
  2. I'll start by apologizing for leading everyone down a dead end, but I was definitely better off with your insight. We tried a few v-drive boats (new and used). They are cool, flashy and well-equipped for watersports, but too challenging for my wife to feel comfortable docking at our slip or maneuvering elsewhere at low speed. We did see a better skiing wake, but felt as though we were giving up too much general purpose use enjoyment to get it. We opted for a slightly larger, more powerful i/o combination in a used (45 hrs) Cobalt 220s with 300hp Mercruiser 350 Mag/B3 drive, perfect pass and tower etc. We've had all our kids and friends up behind it now and the general consensus is BIG improvement. The 5.7 has considerably more torque than my little Chap w/5.0 and the Chap's SX drive is no match for the holeshot the B3's two props provide. The hull planes beautifully in just over 4 seconds and speed control via Perfect Pass helps too. Everyone wins when the admiral is happy and my wife ended up getting exactly what she wanted. Anybody surprised? Sean
  3. I’m testing a (used) 2005 Mastercraft X2 (ancient, but with many options, including being the last year of the narrower <8' beam, traditional bow and less than 100hrs on it), a used 2012 Malibu 21 VLX as well as a used 2012 Cobalt 220s (a nod to my wife’s preference). For those that aren't up on the lack of spending power of my Canadian dollar, $100,000 CDN amounts to roughly $72,000 USD! Anybody care to offer their opinion on relative ski wake quality of either of these 3 boats? I’m looking at others, but starting with these three. I guess I'll see, but I wonder if the wake behind a v-drive boat is any better or worse for skiing than a more conventional i/o runabout like the Cobalt 220s? My wife is really pushing for something SHE still feels comfortable operating!! Sean.
  4. Thanks for the recommendations. We've definitely been having a hard look at Mastercraft X2. Seems like a decent enough ski wake and a reasonable compromise for other uses as well. Sean
  5. That's one possibility (driven by my wife's desire to stay with a conventional i/o drive system rather than direct or v drive). We've also looked at some used Cobalt 220's to make sure we keep her interests in mind too. My son and daughter are really pushing for a newer, sexy looking sporty unit, but my wife is drawn to what she knows. I don't really know, but the ski wakes on many of the v-drive units I'm considering are probably not a whole lot better than a (350 Mag, Bravo 3 drive) 22' i/o... yes, or no!? Sean
  6. Narrowing things down a bit by reviewing our needs. My kids aren't tournament skiers, just recreational slalom skiers (like me). My current boat will do the job, but its not Chap's fastest planing hull (short, with V8 in the back), so we generally try to move everybody forward to get slalom skiers up in a reasonable time. I've had the chance to try Mastercraft X14v and X15v as well as Super Air Nautique 210. Mastercraft makes a very nice boat, I'd lean that way if I could find the right one, with the right hours and options etc. Nautique's 210 is a little more common, a little less expensive and in the right configuration, suitable for my needs. These boats are STUPID expensive new (not that you can even get those models anymore). Both the Nautique and the Mastercrafts are v-drive 'do everything' tow boats, mainly oriented towards wakeboarding and surfing, however, with just a little ballast in the bow, the wake is acceptable for skiers at our level. Better than my current boat in any case and considerably more spacious. Thanks to all who've taken the time to respond. Sean
  7. I'm trying to follow your meaning. Are you saying a 24' i/o will produce a comparable wake to a 22' in-board due to the amount of hull surface in the water? Its starting to look like ski-centric boats are gone the way of the dinosaur. Do you have any favorites among the 'do everything' watersport boats that are out there (Mastercraft, Malibu, Nautique, Centurion etc.)? Am I right in thinking a lighter boat with less deadrise will provide a flatter wake at the expense of handling rougher conditions in comfort? Sean
  8. Hmmm? Improved wake from a skiers perspective generally means LESS wake, not more? Cast yer aspersions elsewhere BajaDriver! Sean
  9. I would LOVE to have a conventional i/o option that could provide an improved wake and better skiing platform than what I have, but I also have to be realistic about what I can find on the far west coast of Canada (Vancouver Island) considering parts, service and maintenance. I've never seen a Bryant before, and that leads me to surmise they aren't common enough to have much in the way of local support for me. Some people have even pointed me towards an outboard powered Tahoe deck boat!? Who knew? Thanks for all the ideas so far. Keep 'em coming! Sean
  10. I have enjoyed the flexibility of owning our little 190SSi for almost 10 years of lake fun, but my kids are bigger now (21 and 22) and despite my hand at the helm, have become pretty good water skiers. Its now the main reason we head out on to the water (other than just for a floating picnic), our tube pulling days are behind us. I know Chap offers more 'sport' oriented models, but I'm not sure if they have what I'm looking for. My current little boat has enough power but an irregular and substantial wake that isn't ideal for skiing. My kids always jump at the chance to go out on our friends Ski-Nautique or Malibu ski boats. I'm beginning to research what I need to do to make the transition. I need room for 8 or more (more commonly 6), setup for skiing, NOT wakeboarding or surfing, and I'd like to spend less than $100,000. I'd like to be knowledgeable enough to shop the used market, I'm just not there yet. Thanks for pointing me in an affordable (?) direction! Sean
  11. canuck1

    2001 196 SSi

    When you say "leaking out of the bilge", is it oil sheen on the water that you are noticing or can you see fluid in the bilge that is actually finding its way into the water? I have experience with the seals on my trim cylinders failing which showed up as an oily sheen on the surface of the water behind the boat. I replaced them rather than rebuild but there are people who've taken on the job of rebuilding them using kits available online. Sean
  12. Thanks, I didn't have far to go, idled it in all the way and didn't see any overheat indications. It's been running well since, in any case. I was just curious, since I didn't feel eminently qualified to answer Makolab's question about possible engine damage associated with losing the serpentine belt while underway. Judging by your answer, I guess it's fair to say it's not an instantly catastrophic situation but one that needs to be remedied ASAP, before running the engine under load again. Sean
  13. Hey Texaspilot71, No worries! Thanks for chiming in Wingnut. I made an assumption about the raw water pump on my engine. I looked at how it worked and surmised that it doesn't rely on the belt to drive it. Is that correct? I know the circulating pump requires the belt. What's the prognosis for someone continuing to run their boat when the circulating pump quits due to a belt failing? Sean
  14. Hi Texaspilot71, I am happy to defer to someone with more experience but I just looked in my Volvo engine service manual. I'm confusing terms by calling it an engine water pump, Volvo alternately refers to it as either the circulating pump or simply, the water pump. As far as where it's located, if you can see the belt routing diagram above I posted earlier in this thread (2013), then you can see the raw water pump (the assembly mounted on the front of the crank pulley with a pair of coolant fittings coming out) as number 20 in the diagram. Above it is the pulley that drives the circulating pump, number 19 in the diagram. I believe all engines of this type (unless closed cooling system) require both a raw water pump AND a circulating pump. Sean
  15. I'm NO expert and I can only relate my own experience, so your mileage may vary, but I think the "raw water pump" is crank driven (doesn't require the belt). The engine water pump is responsible for circulating water through the engine's coolant passages and does depend on the belt being in place to do its job. I did run my boat beltless for 1/2 a mile or so (at basically idle speed) without any significant increase in water temp showing on my gauges. I'm sure its not recommended but the Captain gets to make that call and I did it! I doubt the raw water pump does much more than supply cooling water as far as the engine water pump intake though, so I would think if you raised engine RPM or even ran it for more than a brief period of time at idle, you will likely overheat the engine. There were a few recalls related to a specific part # of tensioners for some Volvo engines. Turned out mine wasn't one of them but tensioners are a wear item and, (along with the low quality OEM belt Volvo installs at the factory) one of the biggest causes of serpentine belt related failures. Tensioners, as well as belts should be examined as part of annual maintenance and replaced as required. A Goodyear Gatorback or even the newer generation Volvo brand belts are better than what the factory used when my boat was new. Sean
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