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About canuck1

  • Birthday 07/30/1965

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Victoria BC, CANADA
  • Interests
    family, old cars, hockey, skiing

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  1. Boggy, thank you for updating with your (successful) changes. Too many of these threads just disappear without any form of resolution. I appreciate the data your experience adds. Sean
  2. What do you guys do about accessing those hard to get into areas like under the corner of the extended swim platform at the back of the hull? My stern points toward the sun when docked and I have one corner of the boat (just under one corner of the ESP) that oxidizes/discolors more than anywhere else due to the sun. Is rubbing compound (hand-applied) likely to be sufficient in that area and/or will it be noticeably different if I use a buffer on the remainder of the colored hull section? Polish and wax still seem to do the job for most of the hull but one corner needs a little something more. I just wasn't sure if I could do it with hand-applied rubbing compound, since I can't get my buffer in under the ESP corner where it needs it most: Sean
  3. I'm not sure. Is it this one? Sean
  4. That does help, thanks! I get that you want maximum flexibility in the event of a serious battery failure beyond simply running it flat. I have struggled to understand the function of the ACR and how they work and thought I'd figured it out. When I read this post I was convinced I had missed something. Now I see that you are simply ensuring you have a third option if wearing belts and suspenders isn't enough! Seems simple enough to do but does insert an added level of complexity for electrically challenged people like me. Sean
  5. I can't view the pics on Photobucket for some reason... Can you explain your reasoning for keeping the original single battery switch after adding the 2 battery switch? I have added a battery using Blue Sea's Add a battery kit (includes ACR) but I'm not following why you might want to further isolate the primary (?) battery with an additional switch. In what circumstance would it be desirable to be able to choose to "start your engine from a single battery alone"? I'm an electrical novice, thus the beginner questions! Hopefully someone can explain so my simple mind comprehends!? Sean
  6. Just to confirm, what is your current final drive ratio (tag is on the back of the drive unit)? If it is much lower than 1.6 something, you may not be able to get to 5000 rpm without a very long, flat run, perfect trim etc.. I know its a crazy long shot but you do run in a place where the locals believe in a mythical sea monster!!! Och aye the noo!! Sean
  7. I installed the Cipa Comp 7 x 14 mirror this year. I had a Monster, tower mounted mirror before that but removed my tower since my kids and I seem to enjoy skiiing more and don't use the tower anymore. The Cipa replacement is nearly as good as the tower mounted model, just have to get used to it being mounted over the passenger side of the windshield instead of driver's side (higher up). Sean
  8. I don't know what gear oil looks like in the water but I know that when my trim cylinder first showed signs of leaking, I thought it might be FUEL/petrol too. See here: Sean
  9. If it is the original equipment pump assembly, I would replace it with the newer style unit to avoid hassles in the future (it WILL fail). I went through this with mine. Replaced a leaking trim cylinder one year, pump the next. The original pump assembly design is poor and the hardware is inadequate. Replacing the pump assembly with the newer version will eliminate many of the possible o-ring/hose end leaks as well as the suspect plastic components that inevitably leak. In my mind it's a poor location for something that might need service on the water. Unfortunately, I don't think you can fix that!! Sean
  10. I had the dealer put a Monster MT1 tower on my 2008 190SSi. It's available, relatively inexpensive, functional, service and available accessories are all good but not nearly as pretty or versatile as a factory or higher end aftermarket brand. Here is a picture: I asked the dealer who mounted it to place it so I can still put the bimini top up. I can fully deploy the bimini but it covers the tower's tow point so they are an either/or thing depending on your need for shade vs. wakeboarding in my case. I think(?) factory towers let you do both. On the plus side, it does the job fine, (did I say it's relatively inexpensive?), it folds down and is also easily removable if you store your boat under a standard cover and don't want to adapt it to fit the tower supports. I've never really liked the look of it but I had it installed when I bought it as my first boat and didn't really understand some of the advantages that go along with the higher price of factory and/or higher end towers. Live and learn! Sean
  11. It's mine, but it's only a REPLICA of one! Factory Five Racing 'roadster' Ford 427 V8 power and as much fun as you can imagine! My son at the wheel, road trip last summer: Sean
  12. Thanks for clarifying vonshep. I don't think the original poster was referring to docking lights but someone had mentioned them and I thought maybe I'd misunderstood the original post... wouldn't be the first time! Sean
  13. I thought (?) they were called docking lights because you were supposed to use them when docking as an aid to available/ambient light and to increase your boat's visibility around the dock area? They told me on my boating safety course that they were not meant for on-the-water navigation like a car's headlight... have I got this wrong? I Don't really head out on the lake at night but see plenty of people doing it with external lights mounted up higher than the docking lights on my boat are. Sean
  14. Thanks for all the input. I'm definitely not losing fluid anywhere I can tell. I've had a trim cylinder fail (maybe 2 seasons ago?) and replaced it after I determined the oil spotting I was seeing behind the boat was trim fluid. you could see where the wiper seal on the end of the cylinder had started to bulge outward on the leaking cylinder. The other side is still original but I have maintained a close watch on the trim system since the first cylinder failed. I'm not losing fluid, fluid level and colour is good. it goes to the dealer at the end of every season for winterizing (I'm lazy) and I have them do a pretty thorough check of the boat mechanicals, including trim system. There is no indication of a leak-down problem while on the trailer either. I only trailer twice a year. Once at the beginning of the season and once at the end. The rest of the Spring/Summer my boat spends in the water at our slip on the lake (freshwater only). I don't mind spending the money if it's sure to fix the problem. I'm told however, there is no way to be 100% sure it is fixed testing it on land. They can't apply enough force to mimic the engine thrust that is forcing the drive back down against the hydraulics. So I could end up spending a herd and a half of large deer and still need to haul the boat out to replace a bad trim cylinder! My dealer is using his experience to play the odds, I guess. I just wish there was a method to better troubleshoot the problem! My season is not especially long and I have never minded spending money if it means I'm less likely to interrupt our time on the water. Sean
  15. I have a Volvo Sx-a style drive that seems to function correctly in every respect in terms of control, it just doesn't seem to want to stay where it is put! When underway at cruising speed (30-40 mph), I will trim the drive up a little and can see the trim gauge moving up (I don't trim it up much, according to the gauge). I can defiinitely feel and hear the difference in how the boat performs when it is right but for some reason, after a few minutes, the drive seems to drop back down to it's full down position. The gauge indicates this has happened and the boat speed, sound as well as feel confirm it. I don't think I'm imagining it! My dealer has recommended replacing the trim pump with Volvo's newer style trim pump and manifold (it comes as a kit). It's a little spendy and I just want some reassurance that this will fix my problem? It could also be a trim cylinder issue, although that apparently that generally shows up as a leak of some kind. I am not losing fluid, fluid color is normal, no sign of contamination. I am aware this model trim pump has a few known issues, so upgrading to the newer style isn't entirely unexpected. Anyone willing to offer any guidance? Is my dealer on the right track? I'm a little worried there is no way to know for certain it's fixed until the boat goes back in the water next Spring! Sean