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    South East New York, Hudson Valley

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  1. Pops


    Breakers are re-settable, fuses, not so much. Once a fuse shows / test open the fuse must be replaced.
  2. Heli Coils are stronger than the original threads
  3. ^^^1 All marine engines should have brass "freeze plugs". Steel is for an automotive engine and if you have steel ones, chances are someone tossed an automotive long / short block in there. If you have closed cooling (antifreeze with heat exchanger), the steel will work, but seems not so in your case.
  4. Roady68 posted yesterday that he had the same problem and I thought maybe, just maybe, he could use the info. My bad
  5. Just found this: http://www.fixya.com/support/t6487582-older_style_odc325_in_motorhome " Raise the entire unit a half-inch or so by lifting from the bottom, then slide the whole thing forward. It drops into slots in the side brackets when you slide it into them."
  6. What seems concerning on the "turn the distributor one way or the other to see if it goes away" would indicate it jumped timing, but if you hadn't touched the distributor and this "just all of a sudden happened", then there are other forces at work, not just "turn the dist". Quite a few of things would allow that. 1. The dist / cam gear moved on the dist shaft. 2. The cam jumped timing on the cam chain. 3.The crank or cam position sensor is not right. 4. Throttle position sensor, MAP sensor, MAF sensor, temp sensor, as Jeffk said, harness???? If Cam, crank and dist are all timed correctly, the ECU is getting wrong info from something, since you have eliminated the fuel system. Maybe something as simple as the position sensor in the dist loosened up and moved a tad (if there is one in there) or the dist shaft has too much play / worn shaft bearings in it. Have seen aftermarket dist caps and rotors cause weird things to happen too, where the OEM was spot on. Just because it's new, doesn't mean it's good. The computer should be able to show where the timing is in relationship to the crankshaft, but if the cam is out of time (timing chain), then those readings will be skewed. It would also show exactly what is going on with the sensors. Physical position / timing can be readily checked, but one needs to put a timing wheel on the crank end and check the cam timing vs: the crank position using a dial indicator on the cam at #1 Cyl TDC. to do it right. As an eye ball, can be checked by turning crank to TDC (#1 compression stroke w/ plugs out) w/ the crank damper TDC mark and dist pointing toward #1 plug plug wire. Checking the distributor gear is easy, once the distributor is out. These computerized engines are hard to troubleshoot without a computer / anylizer but are easy with them and help stop swapping parts till it runs right (or Easter Egging to repair). Hope you figure it out soon. Hang in there and it'll probably turn out to be something simple, but not obvious..
  7. You are 100% correct. They are good for what they are in a stock engine. But add free flow exhaust, a cam, intake and or bigger carb and they will choke off the potential gains.
  8. I "think" they were installed on some of the later 7.4's. But, considering the std 7.4 configuration, the didn't hurt performance.
  9. I have the service manual for that year BBC and looking through the manual, the obvious difference, looking at the engine, the Magnum had an aluminum intake (per the manual). Also, the serial number of a 7.4 was an "XY" code and the magnum was a "XZ" code. And rreale is correct, the 7.4 is 4600 RPM where as the Magnum is 5000 RPM.
  10. Old rule of thumb is to run trailer tires at the sidewall pressure. Keeps them more stable, especially when doing tight turning and prevents sidewall rolling in and scuffing, which it looks like your tires have seen, from the pic. But if the load (weight of load) on the tires is light, center of tread will wear faster and ride will be harsh with full pressure in them.. They may not look low, but also can heat up at highway speeds, due to the lower than advertised pressure. BUT, some tires are more forgiving that others. Are the outside tread areas wearing faster than the center? Load on the tires (boat trailer weight) have a lot to do with the pressures too.
  11. Did they forget to put decimal points in there? That is about a 6-8 hour job, TOTAL. They must have done the estimate wrong. 12 hours to replace injectors????? 6 hours for fuel line????? Are they high? I would get back on the hook with Merc and question that estimate, or get another one.
  12. Found these drawings. Don't know if they will help
  13. ^^^ #1 Did the calculations, based on BTU output, some time ago and the conclusions were that: Ethanol based E90 actually provided zero (0) improvement in tailpipe emissions, due to the lower BTU rating, during a 1000 mile drive. This was caused by: 1. Lowered MPG from lower BTU ratings, resulting in higher fuel consumption to maintain equal speeds. (I personally saw this when my truck increased MPG by 3.9 mpg (21.7% increase) on non-Ethanol fuel, purchased down South, compared to E90 in NY). 2. To make up for the lower MPG, more fuel is used to complete the 1000 mile drive. 3. The increased fuel use actually consumed equal, or more, petroleum based fuel to drive the same distance. In all, it proved the Ethanol fuel actually cost more per mile than straight petroleum based fuels with no real world emissions benefit. I do suppose some clever researcher can "prove" it is better, but that is hypothetical, not a "Real World" application. Just like the crazy hockey stick AGW argument. When the baseline is upped to E15, it gets a lot bleaker, plus does the fuel systems / engines damage, if not specifically designed for the E85. Only winners are the Ethanol sellers.
  14. Oh.... The haters will always hate. LOL Remember when Dallas was on top for so many years and everyone hated them for it at the time? Then all of Dallas hated Jessica Simpson after she and Romo got together, and the rest of the world loved her for it..... Football fans can be an odd lot
  15. Pops

    Time to say goodby

    I'm kinda in the same "boat" as Brick. Talking about retiring and moving south to coastal NC / VA area. Really starting to hate the cold up here in NY (along with a host of other things, but not sure if this is the appropriate place for that discussion ). Don't think my old Chap was the right fit for down there. If I get another boat, it'll be with a pair of outboards on it, due to the constant salt, and probably a center console for fishing. Seems more practical than what I just sold.
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