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Found 4 results

  1. Hi All, new owner of a 2003 183SS. Our boat stays in the water at our dock for the season and currently the bilge float switch is wired through the master; no power to the pump or float switch w/ the battery master off. The pump will operate automatically via the float w/ the master on as well as with the helm switch. I want an automatic bilge pump powered at all times. What are the experts' thoughts and experiences on the two options: 1) Add a second automatic pump tee'd into the existing hose w/ backflow valve (w/ appropriate fuse, etc.). Plusses are redundancy, not cutting into the existing harness, etc. Concerns here are the added complexity of the tee and valves as well as mounting the second pump. 2) Wire the existing float switch to the battery (add fuse, etc.). Plusses are no backflow valve, tee, not mounting second pump. Concerns are cutting into the existing harness. I will be using a larger group 27 AGM battery either way. I have a lot of classic auto and airplane experience and understand good wiring practices, etc., but am new to the boat environment. One other question; Can I mount a second pump by carefully drilling and screwing (stainless fastener, proper sealant) the mount to the stringers under the engine? Thanks all, Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays. w
  2. Hey guys im new to this forum. I have a 2002 183ss and this summer we were out on the lake and the anchor door latch handle broke and the door was stuck in the closes position. After looking at it for hours trying to pry it open, i was forced to break the latch handle. During this, I chipped the fiberglass and it looks like garbage. I know i can get a fiberglass repair kit but does anyone know where i can get a new door. I attatched pictures off the chaparralboats.com "PARTS IDENTIFICATION GUIDE INDEX" http://forum.chaparr...at/2002/183.pdf It looks like i need #1 (183SS Anchor Lid) Part# 3-1143 Any help would be appreciated mike
  3. I have a 2002 183ss with a Merc 4.3 Yesterday i has spring fever and went out and installed a new radio in my boat. After installing it was dark out but i needed to try it out. Like i said it was dark out and i was rushing, I threw the battery in proceeded to connect the battery cables. I put the negative wire on what i thought was the negative terminal but was really the positive terminal. Still not realizing what i did, i went to attach the positive cable and one it touched the negative battery terminal it sparked almost the same as if you tapped 2 jumper cables together. I saw what i did and fixed it. Now i went to turn the ignition and nothing happens. The horn,bilge,lights and everything work but the ignition wont turn on or attempt to start. Do you guys think i fried the computer or just popped a fuse or breaker. I looked under the dash and i can only find the breakers for the horn and accessories. Is there a main fuse or breaker for the boat ignition or motor? Do you guys think i fried the computer? Please HELP!!! Any info is appreciated. I learned my lesson to call it quits once the sun goes down Patiently Waiting, Mike
  4. Hey guys im new to this forum and this is my first post. I have a 2002 183ss and this summer we were out on the lake and the anchor door latch handle broke and the door was stuck in the closes position. After looking at it for hours trying to pry it open, i was forced to break the latch handle. During this, I chipped the fiberglass and it looks like garbage. I know i can get a fiberglass repair kit but does anyone know where i can get a new door. I attatched pictures off the chaparralboats.com "PARTS IDENTIFICATION GUIDE INDEX" http://forum.chaparralboats.com/publications/PartsGuides/Sportboat/2002/183.pdf It looks like i need #1 (183SS Anchor Lid) Part# 3-1143 Any help would be appreciated mike
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