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Found 12 results

  1. Hello guys! I am now the proud owner of a PRISTINE Chaparral 1995 2130ss in the teal and gold color scheme. It is a gorgeous color combo and this boat is especially beautiful! I am the second owner and the boat has sat in indoor storage for the past 11 years. The boat only has 180 original hours and has no blemsihes, dings, fading, etc. The upholstery looks factory as does the gelcoat. The motor is a 5.7l GM block with a yamaha outdrive. All the electrical works (lights, blower, bilge, trim, etc.), the throttle shifts smooth as butter, and the steering is silky smooth as well. The motor does have a crack in the riser and may have other damage as well. This is no big deal as I have a 5.7l Mercruiser and alpha one outdrive that are in great, working condition with only 400 hours. The Mercruiser came off of a 1996 Regal donor junk boat. I will try to get the Yamaha working if I can, but if not, I will just swap the Merc in. If I do get it working, then I will have a decision to make as I have seen some Yamaha sterndrive parts for sale around the internet, and also I have read about people having sucess using Mercruiser parts (gimble bearing, exhaust manifolds, bellows, etc.) Apparently Yamaha got sued for being too similar to either Volvo or Merc, but they still make their outdrives overseas. Anyways, this will be my first real boat once I get everything squared away. I am a 20 y/o college kid who works and uses extra scholarship money to fund his passion! I've always loved Chaparral's because my dad a 1989 2100sx when I was a kid, so that led me to wanting a Chap. I got a great deal on this boat. Unfortunately the previous owner had health issues and recently passed away. That is why the boat sat for 11 years in dry storage. The boat even came with the Yamaha service manual, Chaparral manual, and maintenance/ cruise logs. I will post pictures once the boat is delivered to South Florida from Fort Walton Beach. A few questions: 1) If I swap the yamaha motor and drive with the Merc, I want to use the throttle currently on the 2130ss because the Mercruiser one is stiff and faded. This should work fine, except the Yamaha has the trailer trim button on the outdrive, where as the Merc has the button on the throttle. So my options are: 1) bypass the trim limit? 2) Use the boat without trailer trim. I have a dual axle trailer, so I really need trailer trim anyways? 3) Install another switch somewhere near the transom? Thanks, Drew
  2. New boat I haven't even put in the water yet. 1999 2130SS LE. I have all winter to mess with it. Before it goes in water it's going to get a ESP, smart tabs, new stereo, new speakers, and a amp/sub. She's getting spoiled! 2 questions as I am buying the cheaper parts now (ESP orders with Christmas bonus). #1 I read the smart tabs 60lbs is the ones I want because of the extended V plane hull. Part #SX9510-60BL?? The BL is for black I assume. Looking to order thru Cabela's as I have lots of gift cards to there. #2 is for the prop removal tool. Boat has the 5.7GSi with Volvo Penta DP. Need a special tool. It says DP-SM on the lower unit... Is part #3855516 the right one? https://www.amazon.com/Volvo-Penta-Prop-Tool-3855516/dp/B00XNC4WHE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1538778845&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=volvo+penta+prop+removal+tool&dpPl=1&dpID=41TXn9b42cL&ref=plSrch i have read these tools are $100.... So doesn't seem right but thought I would ask the experts! Thanks! I would post a few pics but out camping befor a hunt and bored.... And for some reason Photobucket isn't working. Thanks again!
  3. I only have two speakers currently and am going to redo my (original) sound system. Underneath the dash there are wires labeled front right, front left, rear left, and rear right. This is odd considering I only have two speakers wired in. Is my boat prewired for two more speakers in the rear?
  4. Hey guys, So today after we got back, the admiral and I noticed a chunk of gelcoat and fiberglass missing from our boat. Not sure when or how this happened. It is loacted on the starboard, stern of the boat and is on the bottom. Does this look like it could be from slamming in rough water, hitting some floating debris, forklift damage, or rack damage? Also, how should I go about repairing this? Thanks, Drew
  5. Hey guys! If you haven't seen my thread, I'm basically having a lot of issues with my gorgeous, but mechanically neglected 2130ss. While on the water the first two times I've been having shifting problems. The first time out seemed to be better than this time. At least the first time I could turn the boat on and put it in either forward or reverse before attempting to put it back in neutral and have it cut off. This time however, it would only go into forward if I did it fast, and I couldn't get it into reverse once. The throttle felt like it was sticking when shifting from forward to neutral, so I tried loosening up the screw near the throttle and that didn't seem to do much. One time I did successfully go from forward to neutral, but that was after I sped up my idle a bit. It was still well under 1,000 rpms. I've been in contact with Captain Ken and he thinks I may need a new lower shift cable, but my questions are: 1) Could it be the idle? In the water my rpms are lower than on muffs, so could that be the issue? 2) Could it be the shift interrupter? 3) Shifting works fine on muffs, but not under load? 4) Could my cable assembly in the boat need adjustment? If so, what is the procedure for doing this? I'd love to adjust the cable/throttle before paying for a new one. 5) I try to shift firmly in and out of gear, but like I said above I can't really because my throttle gets tense near the neutral lock position. Thanks, Drew
  6. Hey guys, If you haven't read through my thread I'll just give you the rundown. So, I've done A LOT of engine work in the past month. I changed all fluids, all filters, plugs, manifolds/risers, thermostat and thermostat housing, I had the carb rebuilt, impeller, and I'm replacing the mechanical fuel pump tomorrow. So, after changing my thermostat housing from the Yamaha set up to a Mercruiser set up (I had to do this to use Merc manifolds/risers), my temperature gauge isn't registering. The connection point for the temp sender for the Merc consists of two two points on the housing itself, while the Yamaha has one wire that is attached to the block right by the thermostat housing. I don't see why the housing would make a difference as water should still get to the area where the Yammie sender is. The only thing I can think of is that when I painted the block, the pain that I got all over the sender is somehow preventing the sender from conducting electricity. Can paint do that? I will clean the connection up tomorrow to see if it changes, but any other suggestions? I'm kindof at a loss. I'm not worried about overheating (yet because of my repairs) and I've been feeling the engine to make sure it is staying cool, but I need to get this resolved! Here are a few pictures of the differences: Merc (Note the two wires and two attachment points) Yamaha (Look closely at the block, that one wire is all that I found. I don't see why that wouldn't work with the Merc housing. It is basically the same thing. Could it be the paint?
  7. Hey guys I'm going to be adding trim tabs to my boat. I am a salt water guy and want smart tabs or self leveling tabs that I don't have to run wires for. What do you guys recommend for my hull in terms of trim tab size and actuator resistance? Also, I'm looking to put a rubber non-skid pad on my swim platform. Sea Dek is okay, but seems to be overpriced. I want a beige/tan color to match the tan trim on my boat. Any other brands that you guys recommend I look into? I'd love something with a Chap logo! Thanks, Drew
  8. drewm3i

    Trim not getting power

    Hey guys, I'm still working out my gremlins. Last week, my trim that was previously working well, stopped working completely. When I click the button (both up and down) I get nothing. No clicks, no fizzling, nada. This all happened out of the blue as it worked earlier on the day that it broke. I have checked both fuses and they seem okay, but I may just replace them to be certain. I've also cleaned all visible electrical connections. All other electrical works except for the backlights on a few of my gauges. Not sure what to check out from here, but if I can't solve it, I'll take it to my buddy. Thoughts? Edit: Fixed- scroll to bottom for the fix.
  9. If you want to get up to date, catch up on my thread in my signature. But anyways, last week the 5.7l Chevy (Yamaha) ran after sitting for over 5 years. It fired right up and we ran it for 10 minutes. The engine was in bad shape (see pictures) so I changed manifolds/risers, spark plugs, fuel/water separator, oil change, oil filter, thermostat (and housing), and fuel lines. I also added fresh fuel and sea foam. And a treatment to the oil. So, my mechanic buddy and I tried to run the motor for an hour or so yesterday. It would fire up if he poured gas in the carb, but would not stay running for more than 10 seconds. We have verified that fuel is getting to the carb because we disconnected the fuel line at the carb and turned the key. As expected, fuel gushed out so it can't be the fuel pump. We also tested for vacuum leaks and the rpms didn't change. At this point he says it can't be a compression problem because he said it was "firing on all cylinders" last week and it didn't misfire when it ran yesterday (briefly). He also said there has to be spark because it did fire up a couple of times for a few seconds. At this point he says it has to be the carburetor which is a 4 bbl Rochester Quadrajet. His boss will rebuild it for me for just the price of the kit, but is this necessary? Is this a carb issue? What do you guys think? It should also be noted that the carb did backfire multiple times yesterday.
  10. I am about ready to hit the water. If all goes as planned, I will be taking a test ride Friday and/or Saturday. My question is should I pull the lag bolts that are holding the motor mounts to the stringer system to recaulk/ seal them? The boat is almost 20 years old, but it sat most of it's life unused, dry stacked, indoors at a marina. The boat is solid as a rock, but I want to keep it that way. I try to keep the bilge as clean as possible and boat in salt water (salt acts as a preservative for wood and keeps it from rotting to a certain degree). Is this something I should do? Or am I just creating unnecessary work that could strip the wood? Thoughts from some of you guys with older boats would be great! As a side note, all of the through transom fittings look great and are packed with sealant ala drain plug and depth finder.
  11. Hey guys I just picked up a 1995 Chaparral 2130ss. See this thread for details: http://forum.chaparralboats.com/index.php?showtopic=26634 I was wondering about how I could convert my Manifolds/risers to a mercruiser set up. I have a Mercruiser thermostat housing that I can use if needed. I would like to know if anyone has done this since it is the same gm block? If anyone has, pictures would be super helpful. I don't want to scrap an engine and drive if they are in good shape, but I need new manifolds and risers since I'm a saltwater boater. Thanks, Drew
  12. LambChop

    Tachometer Adjustment ? - 2130 SS

    Do most boat tachometers have a calibration/adjustment knob on the back? I'm not sure what brand of gauges are in my boat. I haven't pulled the dash apart to check yet, but I have a suspicion that my tachometer might be off as much as 500-600 RPM. Why? I was out on Thursday night and noticed my tachometer was showing a bit over 5,200 RPM @ WOT. The boat is a 2130 SS with a 5.0 EFI putting power to the water through an Alpha 1 drive. I had 3 adults and one toddler in the boat (including myself) - so around 700 lbs worth of adults (my parents aren't very fit...) and a full tank of gas. The speedometer doesn't work, so I can't tell you the top speed. I'm sure the next question is what pitch is my prop... It's a 21 pitch 3 blade aluminum propeller. That seems like a steep pitch to be turning over 5,200 RPM to me... The drive ratio is 1.47:1. I've got an RPM indicator that I'm going to hook up to the motor tomorrow to see the actual revs that it is turning. If the read is different from what the tach says, any tips on solving the tach inaccuracy would be helpful. - Adam
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