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Found 9 results

  1. Just replaced my starter. Took me a few hrs. Pulling the old one was fairly easy. Getting the new one back in place was tough tho. I removed 1 battery and he exhaust hose. Took a while but success! Didn't realize how slow the old one was actually cranking until now.
  2. I am having a high pitch whine from the engine compartment between 10 mph and 30 mph. I have been told it's the idler pulley and is a common issue. Anyone else have this issue and if so are there aftermarket replacement parts that can keep this issue from coming up again. Engine is 496. Thanks
  3. I am having a high pitch whine from the engine compartment between 10 mph and 30 mph. I have been told it's the idler pulley and is a common issue. Anyone else have this issue and if so are there aftermarket replacement parts that can keep this issue from coming up again. Engine is 496. Thanks
  4. Steck101


    I just purchased a 2005 256ssi with a Volvo 5.7 liter and a duo prop drive. It has twin stainless steel props on it. and a through hall exhaust. I have a couple of questions as to what my reasonable expectations of speed should be versus what the previous owner said they were for him. A. The previous owner told me that he gets "every bit of 50 mph." Although I was skeptical, when I maxed at 44mph @5000 RPM (gps speed) I was a little shocked given the engine and drive combination. The conditions when I got 44 were smooth water, 3 people (400 pounds) and (lets say) a full tak of fuel (70 gallons). B. The props have some dings and dents. (my background is in single aluminum props in a small shallow lake). I know the effects of a dented or bent aluminum prop, however will dents and nicks in a SS duo prop slow the boat that much? C. What is the max RPM at full throttle for this boat. I was at 5000 RPM with the trip 1/2 up after I got onto plane and still 44mph. D. I have been looking online for information on the duo props with little luck. Are the diameter /pitch calculated the same way as the single aluminum props (14 /19 etc). Should I change the pitch of the prop to get additional top end. Before judging, I completely understand that I am chasing 1-3 MPH. However the reality is that I really dont know what I should expect. With a 5.7 engine and duo prop drive with SS blades, I was hoping for more than 44 mph. I didn't buy this boat to break any records, but for more comfort and cruising, however when I want it to go, I would like it to go a speed that would at least match the very cool sound of the exhaust. Thanks for helping me.
  5. WD

    Engine hatch switch

    While attempting to repair another switch contact I have apparently pulled a connector loose from the engine hatch switch on the dash. I have a 2005 256ssi. There is not enough wire to allow me to pull the dash panel forward enough to get my hand to the back of the switches let alone the ability to pull it out far enough to inspect. Is all of that nest of wiring connected to a harness somewhere under there that would allow me to disconnect it and pull the dash panel completely out? Suggestions?
  6. Well The Toddler is almost awake. Uncovered it yesterday and changed the impeller. Three years ago it took 2 of us 4 hours, this time a little less than 2.5 hours. Hawks Score !!!! Notes: I aways disconnect the hatch and prop it open a little more. I removed the battery trays and CC exhaust tube. Makes it easier to get in there. Take belt off climb in hole Disconnect the red supply hose (pull pin) loosen return hose clamp forward of tee. Remove the tension pulley, 2 - 10mm bolts 2 nuts on pump, 2 bolts on tension pulley bracket remove bracket (two different sizes can't remember) Slide pump forward remove the small(1/8") bypass lines from pump. (pain) fish pump out............(more Pain)(Bandaid) there are 7 bolts .....6 on the pump, 1 on the pulley bracket Pull out old impeller, Dish soap on inside of pump, zip-tie on new impeller, insert back into housing 1/4 inch or so, aline shaft cut tie, rubber mallet to tap in. Fish pump back in line up supply hoses, set pump on studs attach bypass lines, slide on. Lay 3 towels across top of engine, lay across engine so you can reach the water supply hose under engine. attach and tighten the water supply hoses (I've done this twice its the only way to get 2 hands in there)(pain) Climb back in hole slide on tension pulley bracket, tighten pump and bracket Attach tension pulley put belt on Reattach CC exhaust tube, battery trays, take out hatch prop and reconnect hatch to motor. Kings Score This IMO takes 2 people, It takes 2 to lift the hatch higher, and somebody to hand you the tools (Beers). Thanks to all the posts from 3-4 years ago about this on the forum. Great refresher. I thought I'd just bump it up.
  7. Howdy, Just an FYI posting of my experience with my new-to-me Chap. Occasionally I have been getting an alarm at prolonged high speeds although the water temp was not high. So I replaced the impeller in my 2006 256SSI (VP 5.7). It appears to be the first time the impeller has been changed since there was still red paint on the pump bolts. Boat has 215 hours. Anyway, the old impeller was missing two full blades and they were nowhere to be seen in the pump. Ayeeeee! Bad news for an amateur mechanic. I then traced the water output line to the thermostat and removed it (it was much easier than it looked to remove). Happily, I found both blades nestled in the thermostat input. A little prodding and poking and cleaning, replaced the thermo, O-ring and gasket. And she's up and running cool and smooth. VP says to replace the impeller every year or 50hrs (53 deer) - so now that I am an expert, I will tackle the impeller next season as well. I got a lot of good info on this forum before attempting the job - it's a great resource - thanks a million to all you posters! Joe
  8. Sorry for the duplicate posts, not starting off on the right foot here. Hello all, Sorry for the lengthy post. Most is background on our new boat although I do have a head question. Thanks very much for reading and letting me in the club. I have lurked a bit and found some very valuable information here. In December we purchased a 2005 256 ssi with the Volvo 8.1L GXi, captains call exhaust and arch (270hrs) and have naturally been itching to get on the water. We got lucky here in VA and had some good weather to do a sea trial with a surveyor, Capt. Emory Shover based here in northern VA. Highly recommend him. Also had a certified Volvo mech take a look at the engine and drive. Everything major checked out and the survey was money well spent as there was a bad aux breaker and fresh water pump which the PO paid for out of pocket. I am in the process of having my canvas guy look at a few tears in the factory cockpit cover to see if he wants to repair or if I need to just bite the bullet and replace entirely. Thanks to you guys, I checked all of my cup holder drain and other drain hoses (front cooler) and found a number of them were disconnected so will get to those before we splash for the season. the boat will be slipped in fresh water in the Potomac from April 1 thru mid October and after much research we are going to have the bottom barrier coated and painted with a multi-year "hard ablative" like Pettit vivid. Stereo-The boat has an upgraded sound system (but stock HU and remotes which both work). I know the PO installed a JBL amp and MB quart speakers but have not had a chance to fully inventory what all is there, if he wired it correctly and what I will replace, if not this year than next. VHF- The boat does not have a VHF installed. I plan to flush mount under the steering wheel as I think I have seen one other member's install on this forum. Is there enough depth there? I have not had a chance to pull the breaker panel to check. I'm not on the radio that much so not sure if I'll go for a mic with a display as I know it will be difficult to see the main in this install location. Will likely go for a mic with a speaker or mount an external-when the CG up here in D.C. needs to raise you, its a lot better to answer on the radio to avoid the hassle of a stop. As far as the antenna goes, I plan to mount a 4' Shakespeare Centennial antenna 3/4 of the way up the side of the starboard arch. Carpet- Factory grey carpet is in OK shape but I am not in love with the color. I had snapincarpet dot com send me samples and I think we will have them make us a new carpet using the desert sand berber they offer. Open to ideas here if anyone recommends a different outfit or carpet choice. Head- Here comes my main question. I currently have the raw water manual flush Jabsco head and while this is OK I often have female guests on board and I can already see it being a pain to use the manual pump in the rare occasion that the head is even used. #1 only will be the rule, no excuse for anything else-we are always close enough to a marina or other facilities should the need arise. Additionally, as the boat is slipped I would not be 100% comfortable leaving the seacock open and quite frankly it is a bit of a pain to reach down to the bottom of the bilge to open and close, not to mention the horrors I've read about regarding the smell that raw water systems have on the intake side (even with strainers and chlorine tablets). That being said I am seriously considering replacing the head with a unit called the Raritan Sea Era. I would go for the fresh water version and correctly install the appropriate vacuum breaker, solenoid and loop to prevent any fresh water contamination. Note, this head IS designed for fresh water use, so all the info about not converting a raw water to fresh water head is not a concern, as I understand it. I have spoken ad nauseum to many folks about this but am open to hearing any thoughts from those of you that have experience in this area. I am wondering if anyone has tried anything similar? I know Jebsco makes an electronic raw water unit as does Raritan but would love the fresh water pressurized version that I have listed. Quieter, cleaner, easier, and a little less water which is a big deal with the meek 4gal holding tank on this boat. Should I give this a try or is it not worh the effort for the little use the head will see? Chartplotter- The PO made a fiberglass mount to cover the compass mounting location and installed a Garmin 178C which will be fine for now. I have an aux compass and appropriate charts. Oil- What are you guys using in the big block Volvos? Not sure what the PO actually used. I want to go Mobil 1 but know from cars that switching to a full, high viscosity syn later in the game can cause leaks. Thoughts? Bilge- I will likely be adding a manually switched diaphragm pump with the pickup in the low point of the bilge to get any remaining water out. Being slipped I don't have the luxury of pulling the drain plug to get the last inch or so and I hate not having a dry bilge. Lighting- Taking the lead of many here and replacing with LEDs as well as adding surface mount LED rounds to the arch. Trim Tabs- Going to boat this season without them and see how she handles. Likely on the list (no pun intended) for next year. Batteries- PO had installed two brand new group 27 batteries and they are sitting in my carpeted basement on a digital charger. I am going to remove the factory switch (Off, 1, 2, Both) and install the Blue Seas ACR and switch as we had it on our previous boat and it greatly simplified things, especially for my father who occasionally uses the boat. I want to permanently mount solar panels to the top of the arch and connect them to a charge controller and the batteries for maintenance but I am not sure the best way to do this. If anyone has experience with a similar set up it would be helpful to have some insight. I will do my best to document all of my projects and include write-ups here on the forum. Not diving into any until mid-march at the earliest. Thanks very much for reading and any insights. CaptScott
  9. Hey boaters, I purchased a 2006 256ssi with the Volvo 8.1 375hp - f5 duo prop. The boat is a dog out of the hole, plows forever. Top end can hit 45mph (speedo) at 4400rpm. The motor seems to be running strong. Anyone else experience this?
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