Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'Mercruiser'.

More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • Contests!!
    • Contests!!
    • Polls!!
  • Chaparral Boats Forum
    • Boat Talk
    • Dock Talk
    • Newbies
    • Info Center
  • Regional Forums
    • Midwest U.S.
    • Northeast U.S.
    • South Central U.S.
    • Southeastern U.S.
    • West Coast U.S.
    • Northwest U.S.
    • Rocky Mountain Region U.S.
    • Eastern Canada
    • Western Canada
    • International Boating
  • Suggestions & Comments
    • Site Suggestions & Comments
  • Gulf Coast

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start





Website URL







Found 28 results

  1. my mercruiser twin is equipped with an Audio warning System. The buzzer sounds when the key is turned on and is supposed to stop when the engine starts. The mercruiser manual says it indicates l.1. low oil pressure. 2. high tempeture 3. low drive lubricant. All three are ok. where is the alarm located and what else should i be considering. Everything else runs good except for the high screeching buzzer. Thanks in advance.
  2. Hello guys! I am now the proud owner of a PRISTINE Chaparral 1995 2130ss in the teal and gold color scheme. It is a gorgeous color combo and this boat is especially beautiful! I am the second owner and the boat has sat in indoor storage for the past 11 years. The boat only has 180 original hours and has no blemsihes, dings, fading, etc. The upholstery looks factory as does the gelcoat. The motor is a 5.7l GM block with a yamaha outdrive. All the electrical works (lights, blower, bilge, trim, etc.), the throttle shifts smooth as butter, and the steering is silky smooth as well. The motor does have a crack in the riser and may have other damage as well. This is no big deal as I have a 5.7l Mercruiser and alpha one outdrive that are in great, working condition with only 400 hours. The Mercruiser came off of a 1996 Regal donor junk boat. I will try to get the Yamaha working if I can, but if not, I will just swap the Merc in. If I do get it working, then I will have a decision to make as I have seen some Yamaha sterndrive parts for sale around the internet, and also I have read about people having sucess using Mercruiser parts (gimble bearing, exhaust manifolds, bellows, etc.) Apparently Yamaha got sued for being too similar to either Volvo or Merc, but they still make their outdrives overseas. Anyways, this will be my first real boat once I get everything squared away. I am a 20 y/o college kid who works and uses extra scholarship money to fund his passion! I've always loved Chaparral's because my dad a 1989 2100sx when I was a kid, so that led me to wanting a Chap. I got a great deal on this boat. Unfortunately the previous owner had health issues and recently passed away. That is why the boat sat for 11 years in dry storage. The boat even came with the Yamaha service manual, Chaparral manual, and maintenance/ cruise logs. I will post pictures once the boat is delivered to South Florida from Fort Walton Beach. A few questions: 1) If I swap the yamaha motor and drive with the Merc, I want to use the throttle currently on the 2130ss because the Mercruiser one is stiff and faded. This should work fine, except the Yamaha has the trailer trim button on the outdrive, where as the Merc has the button on the throttle. So my options are: 1) bypass the trim limit? 2) Use the boat without trailer trim. I have a dual axle trailer, so I really need trailer trim anyways? 3) Install another switch somewhere near the transom? Thanks, Drew
  3. rcman

    limp mode

    I have a unique problem that the dealer I bought the boat from cannot identify or fix. I have a 2016 Bryant boat powered by a Mercruiser v8 engine. My problem occurs when the boat is is a tight turn at 3500 plus rpms. The engine goes into limp mode. The rpms drop significantly., and the engine runs rough. After the engine is pulled back to idle the problem goes away and the boat performs normal. The condition only occurs during a sharp turn. The boat runs great on a straight path. Any Ideas?? The dealer is clueless. I need some help thanks kenny

    cranks but no start

    Sorry if this has been answered before but searching the site I could not find anything. I have a 1997 signature 310 (I am second owner) with 5.7litre mercs with Alpha Gen 2 sterndrives. I have just replaced all the cooling systems, fuel filters, rebuilt carbies etc etc and motors ran great . Now one wont start. It cranks but does not fire. I did adjust the shift cables etc. the motor does not crank when not in neutral. Thats sounds right. There is spark at the plugs, fuel at the carby and I have sprayed with Aero Start (ether) It will not fire. My guess is some sort of sensor switch stopping it. What can I do to solve my problem. HOPE THERE IS SOMEONE TO PUT ME IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION
  5. Toddler

    Vessel Veiw App

    Just saw this for engines 2003 and newer. Anybody got one, or planning on getting one. Seems to be a great upgrade for us guys with older EFI engines. https://www.boatingmag.com/new-mercury-vesselview-mobile-app https://mercury.vesselviewmobile.com/#/ .
  6. Well guys it's getting to be that time of year again. My season is coming to a close with fall activities looming it's time to get the boat winterized and put into storage. I've been doing a lot of reading on winterizing and am a little confused. Last year I stabilized the fuel, changed the oil/filter, fuel filter and lower unit oil as well as opened the blue drain valves and ran antifreeze through the engine. This is my first I/O boat as I have winterized outboards before and always fogged the carbs. With the Merc 5.0L MPI engines i'm seeing people mixing up a "Cocktail" and putting it in the fuel filter and letting that "fog" the engine. Is the correct procedure? Does anyone have a good mixture for a "Cocktail" i've never done that in the past and am a little worried I maybe hurting my boat by not doing this step in the winterizing process. Thanks in advance!!!
  7. Mikehop52

    Classic 1980s service and parts

    I'm looking for parts and service for a classic 1981 model Chaparral with mer cruiser in line 6. It's 17' Stern drive Any good sources out there?
  8. MI Chappy

    6.2 L Bravo III 600 Plus Hours

    I'm looking at a 2006 Chaparral 255 SSi. It has approximately 615 hours on it. The seller indicates it was well maintained each season and a freshwater only boat. I spoke to the mechanic I use and he told me that model engine and drive, properly maintained is good for at least 2000 hours. He also said they often have charter boats with Mercs that they don't even consider tired until 4000 hours. What do all of you think? Just trying to avoid shelling out some deer on a boat that the engine is on it's way out. Thanks in advance.
  9. Hoping somebody has a good direct contact to get a brand new complete bravo 3 lower gear housing. Need to try and source as quickly as possible. Cost not so much an issue as will be paid for by the insurer. Any help would be fantastic!
  10. I have a 2009 Sunista with a 350 Mercruiser (5.7L) 300 hp with 150 hours. Month ago the serpentine belt came off and dealer diagnosed that the seawater pump was failing so he replaced and new belt. Took it out yesterday and after 15 minutes, running rough and noticed seawater hose leaking. Shut down to idle and then engine horn sounded continuously. Immediately shut down the engine. After a tow back, mechanic replaced a failed hose clamp and leak fixed. But motoring away from the dock, at about 1200 rpm, horn sounded. So I limped back and mechanic took it for a hard ride with me. Engine performed flawlessly at all rpm and at WOT. Horn never sounded. So I motored back to my dock about a mile away at about 3000 rpm and tied up. Again no issues. 30 minutes later I started it up and was just leaving the slip (at about 1000 rpm) when horn sounded continuously again just after I put it in gear. Pulled boat back into the slip and after idling in the slip the horn went silent. I checked the temp and oil pressure and all was well. Idled the engine for at least 10 minutes without any issues. I need to figure out why the horn sounds continuously within 2-5 minutes after getting underway at low rpm. I have to think it is related to the seawater pump replacement. I believe it will sound for low seawater pressure but that should not be an issue with a new pump.
  11. Chillin209

    1930ss Merc Alpha One Issue

    Hello, I'm new to the site and looking for support with an issue I'm having on a Mercruiser 5.0L Alpha One, We recently purchased a used Chaparral Model 1930SS Boat. Visual inspection of the hull was good, interior was good, the engine started and ran okay, we bought it and took it out on the Lake last weekend and all was going well until about an hour later; we were cruising about 2500 rpm pulling one of the kids on a tube and all of a sudden I heard this binding noise on the out-drive and then the engine suddenly stopped. I let it rest for a few minutes, restarted the engine and we took off again, 3 minutes later it happened again. This time I let it set for 25 minutes, restarted the boat and basically idled it back to the boat ramp which was about 4 miles away. I've owned other boats with OMC Cobra Out-drives that had Cable issues......I thought the Mercruiser I/O's were trouble free? Has anyone ever heard of OR experienced this issue?
  12. Mpl

    Chaparral 255 SSI

    Hi Folks, Picking our first boat on the 9th of June and can't wait our summer to begin..........it's been a little cold and grey here in Atlantic Canada but we're hoping for a warm summer. We decided on a 2006 Chaparral 255 ssi with 496 (140 hours) and I'm very happy with our choice. I joined the forum last night but was reading comments and getting pictures from the many owners on it. Just wanted to say hi and let you all know you have a new Chaparral family! Pics to follow....... Marc
  13. Slapshot

    Mercruiser Parts Online?

    I am currently having the impeller, bellows, and gimble bearings checked/replaced by my local marina. I understand this will cost me a significant amount of money so I am looking at ways to save money on other maintenance operations. I would like to replace the distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs, and fuel filter on my own. However, I have not located a website that sells Mercruiser parts for a decent price. I'd also like a site that has a search feature based on year, manufacturer, and engine size. I'd like to get some input from our forum members concerning what sites you have used in the past (good or bad). Please let me know which sites you recommend, and which sites I should stay clear of. Thank you. Jake
  14. I have original bellows on my 1997 Mercruiser Alpha One Gen 2. There are no leaks or other problems so far, but there are visible cracks. I mostly worry about U-joint bellows, and least about Exhaust one. How often do you replace them? Here are pics: Exhaust 18654A 1 Exhaust 18654A 1 Universal Joint 816431A 1 Exhaust 18654A 1 Shift Cable 74639 Exhaust 18654A 1 Shift Cable 74639 Universal Joint 816431A 1
  15. Hello, I am a new owner of a 2008 350 Signature with mercruisers. I went to use the boat this weekend and none of the mercruiser gauges were working. The gauges worked during the sea trial and during the 5+ hours I have put on the boat since I picked it up. Any suggestions on troubleshooting the problem would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
  16. Hello all, I have a 2013 246 SSi with a Mercruiser 350 Mag in it. I have an issue that has baffled both me and my mechanic. I'll be cruising along about 3k RPM, on plane when I get a solid BEEEP and the error display reads Engine Power Limited. I throttle back the error clears. I can throttle up cruise along for 10 -15 minutes 2k - 3k RPM's then BEEEEP Engine Power Limited again. I check the alarm logs nothing is listed. My boat mechanic tested the boat, experienced the alarm and told me it was the temperature sensor. He replaced the sensor, took the boat out for about 2 hours all seems good. I took the boat out this weekend, get out of the channel, throttle up to about 3k and BEEEEP Engine Power Limited Error. I called the mechanic we did a reset on the system by turning off the battery power and unplugging the main wiring harness. That worked for about 20 minutes, then I received the BEEEEP and Engine Power Limited error. Mechanic seems to think it's a sensor issue...anyone have previous experience or provide any guidance, it would be greatly appreciated. I also noticed that the speedometer is somewhat unresponsive. I can be cruising along and the needle hasn't moved off of zero. I'll kick it up to 2k - 3k RMP's and the needle will slowly rise to match the speed listed on the GPS. Thanks!
  17. TexasPilot71

    Dead in the water today! (IAC Valve)

    Wife and I took advantage of the 80 degree day today and decided to check out the other side of the lake. Went to our favorite marina, topped off the fuel tank (40 gallons) and headed out for about a 20 mile run out and back. Made it about 5 miles when I got a hard alarm and this: Immediately throttled back, but the engine idled very rough. So I then went to neutral where it died completely. Restart....no dice. So there we are, sitting adrift in a light wind. I have no idea what this valve is, so I pull out the cell phone and "Google" it while the wife keeps watch. Okay, so now I have an idea, but no spare IAC valve. Just about to call Tow Boats US when I thought "let's place a call to my mechanic who is off on Mondays, but recently went to work at another marina (Highport) where I happened to be sitting about 1000 yards from at the time. He answers! "Yes, I'm off today, but I JUST HAPPEN to be at the shop and I JUST HAPPEN to have an IAC in stock. I can meet you at the fuel dock and install the part for you right away." Great! But how do I get there without calling a Tow Boat? He asked me to press the idle button on the throttle lever and advance the throttle slightly while trying to start to verify it's the IAC. She starts right up and idles. When I pull it back to neutral, she dies. Great! Problem verified! (About that time a tow boat motors by on the way to Highport...the irony!) Anyway, I didn't flag him down, instead tricked the motor with that technique the mechanic showed me. Got to the dock (that was "fun" docking without being able to idle or shift through idle to reverse) and had it installed in about 15 minutes. But you should have seen the old IAC!! The round plastic end housing the stepper motor had melted and was dripping molten plastic. When it cooled, it was a solid two inch "drip" just hanging from the IAC. Gnarly! We were wondering why there was a burning plastic smell. Back on our way spent the rest of the afternoon completing our trip without issues. Learned a little today. One lesson was to have a spare IAC with me if/when we ever do that Bahamas trip!
  18. Hi, The boating season is right around the corner here in Norway, and I have to get my boat ready for changing the turbo. Has anyone changed the turbo on a Mercruiser 1,7 diesel before? The boat is a 2007 model, and I would like some help/information before I start. Thx.
  19. AquaTherapy

    Mag 496 Down on Power Intermittantly

    I've had a rough year with my mag 496; going weeks performing well (5-6 seconds on plane and 54 GPS MPH) and other weekends it's a dog that take 20+ seconds to get on plane and tops out at 43 GPS MPH. It has been running well recently as I filled up the 80 gallon tank with fresh gas (always 10% Ethanol) (about 41 gallons). I took it to the marina that has certified Merc techs and had performed all of the maintenance and winterization for me since 2012. They took it out on Lake Michigan and did not see any issues during ~30 minutes of testing. With 150 hours, they checked the plugs and did not recommend a tune up at this time. Their diagnosis is water in the gas even though I have been using StaBil. They are changing the fuel/water separator filter for good measure,. I will have it back this weekend for two days on the lake. This winter they do want to install a pre-fuel/water separator that I can check visually and drain this winter. Has anyone else seen issues with bad gas and it affecting performance?
  20. So I just got my boat and I had a small drip leak during the sea trial so last night I was running the engine on muffs to determine if the leak was coming from the engine or an outside source. Sure enough, I have a steady trickle of water coming from the sea water pump assembly. This water seems oily/greasy, so I'm thinking one of the seals protecting the bearings may be leaking. Maybe it's just the impeller housing, but it seemed to be close to the pulley. The bearings are spinning true and the impeller is working as of now, but I don't know how long it's been leaking, so I'm going to pull it off and look at everything. I think I'm going to need to rebuild it with new bearings and seals or just order a new one. Any tips or comments? Can the housing be cracked and cause a small leak? What special tools do I need to pull the bearings out and is it even worth it? Thanks in advance for all the assistance!
  21. drittle

    Epic V23 - Mercruiser 8.1 HELP!

    My name is Daisy, I am hoping you can help me. We own an Epic V23 boat that has a mercruiser 8.1 motor. Apparently no one can help me .. Ive called multiple people in multiple locations. I found this forum doing research. When I hook up the computer the error codes I get are the following Fuel LVL2 CKT H 5VDC pwr 2 L We have been trying to get this boat to work for 3 months!!!!!!!!!! and Ive had it, i need to figure it out. Can you pleaseeee help me??! The boat starts fine, when we take it out as soon as we go over 3300 RPMs the alarm stays on until we go back to neutral. The message on the screen says "Sensor power supply voltage is low" when I select more I get . STBD system failure 217. Is it possible for you to guide me ? Thanks in advance
  22. My engine was overheating at WOT. Then it would start running warm while just running hard. Installed new thermostat, new impeller, and backflushed the system. Still doing it. Installed new manifolds & riser. The old ones didn't look bad enough to be causing the problem. While the engine was accessible, decided to replace all the hoses as a precaution. Problem # 1 was found, the honeycomb engine oiler cooler was partially clogged even after backflushing the system. I took it off & used a straight piece of wire to poke out all the organic debris. Problem # 2 was found by the mechanic, the fresh water hose coming from the outdrive was crushed by salt build up and restricting flow! Problem # 1 didn't cost anything to fix. Problem # 2 cost a bit, but still a heck of alot more then overheating the engine. Just a few things to look for outside the ordinary.
  23. seawoods

    2008 Sunesta 224

    I recently purchased a 2008 Sunesta with 80 hours on the Mercruiser 5.0 engine. The problem I am having is that it won't plane out if anyone is sitting in the back seat. I was thinking just changing the plugs, wires, filters, and oil might help but I'm not sure. If I put 4 adults up front and two in the captains chairs it will plane out okay but not great. Shouldn't this take off with no trouble only carrying 6 adults (two up front, two in captain's chairs, and to in backseat) with 3 kids tubing?
  24. In my ever continuing effort to get everything working and working properly, I'm tackling the stern drive trim indicator. I know...not a "must have" indicator, but it's a stand-alone indicator on the dash and it should be working, right?? Well, it never has, so I did some experimenting. On key turn, all the needles swing through their range as a test. The trim indicator swings as well. This tells me it's getting power and communicating with the system. There's a calibration menu in the tachometer/multi-function display. Put simply, it has you trim the stern drive all the way up, answer "yes", then trim it all the way down and answer "yes" again. I presume this teaches the system the range of trip and it simply interpolates any percentage of trim and indicates it on the needle. When I answer each question, the needle does in fact swing to the applicable position. Either fully up when I tell it that the drive is all the way up, and it indicates full down when I tell the system that the drive is trimmed down. All the above experimenting makes me think that everything is connected and powered and that maybe the problem is the sender in the drive unit itself. Now for the pics. When I looked behind the panel, there is a wire bundle coming out of the indicator and not connected to anything. There's a "terminator" on the end (I presume this is something used to keep the connectors clean until properly used?). Can anyone tell me if maybe that's supposed to be connected to maybe a wire bundle coming from the drive? Is that my issue or is it probably the sender itself? Thanks as always. Here are the photos:
  25. Hey guys I just picked up a 1995 Chaparral 2130ss. See this thread for details: http://forum.chaparralboats.com/index.php?showtopic=26634 I was wondering about how I could convert my Manifolds/risers to a mercruiser set up. I have a Mercruiser thermostat housing that I can use if needed. I would like to know if anyone has done this since it is the same gm block? If anyone has, pictures would be super helpful. I don't want to scrap an engine and drive if they are in good shape, but I need new manifolds and risers since I'm a saltwater boater. Thanks, Drew