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Found 7 results

  1. JOHNCARP

    277 Overheating Issues

    I have a 2015 277 that I have been having a number of overheating issues. First the dealer thought it was an impeller, so we replaced it. Then it continued. They thought that maybe the impeller broke apart and some of the pieces clogged the cooling system, so they took the entire cooling system apart. My boat worked fine for 2 months, then last night it overheated again. It is extremely frustrating to have paid over $100,000 for a boat that constantly has to be towed in. Worse than that, our dealer does not offer any towing service to the dealership, so we have to get Seatow to tow us to the dealership. It is about a 2-3 hour tow ride to the dealership and they require someone to be on the boat. Anyone else have these problems or did I just get a lemon? Also, what kind of idiot designs these engines with an impeller that has to be replaced so often? My last Chaparral didn't have one and we never had problems. I feel like I made a huge mistake buying this boat.
  2. GoofNuggets

    2 new engines, overheat alarm

    I'll try to summarize. I have a 2003, 285 ssi with twin Volvo Penta 350's and DP outdrives. Didn't get them properly winterized. Cracked both blocks. ordered 2 new remanufactured engines with new manifolds and circulating pumps. Had new engines professionally installed. Took boat out, and starboard engine alarmed out after about 8 minutes of cruising (idled out fine). Returned to mechanic who went out for ride with me and used temp gun on both engines. Thermostat housing on starboard was 20 degrees hotter than port and engine alarmed again. Mechanic changed out thermostat. Still alarmed after about 8 minutes cruising. Returned boat to mechanic. Both outdrives have been removed and inspected. No issues there. Clear hoses have been put on to inspect for correct flow. Flow is correct. Old circulation pumps have been put onto new engines with a 5 degree temp improvement. New impellers have been put in and raw water pumps inspected. Service department at the marina informed me the boat now cruises without alarming, but temp now climbs at 800rpm or less while idling out of marina. Service department is convinced it is a flow restriction somewhere. I'm not certain it is. Any suggestions?
  3. My engine was overheating at WOT. Then it would start running warm while just running hard. Installed new thermostat, new impeller, and backflushed the system. Still doing it. Installed new manifolds & riser. The old ones didn't look bad enough to be causing the problem. While the engine was accessible, decided to replace all the hoses as a precaution. Problem # 1 was found, the honeycomb engine oiler cooler was partially clogged even after backflushing the system. I took it off & used a straight piece of wire to poke out all the organic debris. Problem # 2 was found by the mechanic, the fresh water hose coming from the outdrive was crushed by salt build up and restricting flow! Problem # 1 didn't cost anything to fix. Problem # 2 cost a bit, but still a heck of alot more then overheating the engine. Just a few things to look for outside the ordinary.
  4. Our boat - 2004 220ssi with VP 5.7 Gi, SX outdrive. ~160 hours total time since new. 1 time in salt water 3 years ago (flushed afterwards). The rest all fresh water. I've read several dozen posts here and on other sites, so my apologies for another thread on the topic. Put the boat in the water this weekend for the first time this year and "thought" everything was good to go. Let it idle in the slip for 15 minutes - solid temp of ~170. Smooth throttle. Rev'd in neutral to 3000 rpm for a couple minutes. Steady temp. After taxiing out of the marina and slow speed area (5-7 minutes underway) and then going WOT to get up to cruise (25 mph), we settled in. About 5 minutes later, temps rise to ~200 -210. I shut the engine down immediately and call the lake patrol for a tow back to the marina. At that moment, water pump housing was cold, no leaks, riser/elbows warm, but could easily hold hands on them for as long as I cared to. Back at the marina, I start to trouble shoot. First thing is a new impeller. Old one going on 3rd season. Not "bad", no missing fins, some minor cracking at the base of a few fins. After install, idle for 10 minutes - solid temp (170), cold pump housing, cold hose to thermo housing, risers are easy to touch. Rev to 3000 rpm and temp begins to rise - shut down. Second - ensure temp sensor connections are firm (I believe that's what they are) on back of both risers, both sides of the block at the drains, and at the thermo housing. Go through same test routine. Same results. I notice that the port riser cools a bit under high rpm (more water flushing through?) and that it is definitely cooler to the touch than the starboard riser - though both are easily touchable (for as long as I care to touch) as I see the temp rise. Are the two risers typically the same temp? Seems like they should be. I don't have an IR thermometer, but there was definitely a difference. 2 questions: Does this sound like clogged manifolds/risers (or perhaps just the starboard)?How does the temp gauge work? Are all 5 of those sensors I described actually temp sensors? Or is the temp sensor somewhere else? Do they feed a common circuit that then takes the "highest" reading and that's what shows on the temp gauge? Or?I don't think it's the thermo - the engine idles no problem for extended periods and maintains 170-175 degrees - though I could easily replace it (which I didn't do yet). Clogged PS cooler maybe - read a post about that, but symptoms aren't an exact match? Our boat is 2.5 hours away, so I'm not really able to do any more trouble shooting. But from what I've read, 10 years is a fairly predictable replacement range for fresh water operation. I'm considering purchasing manifolds/risers and just "throwing parts at the problem" DIY - seems doable except for potentially rusted mounting bolts. The boat is up a 8000 foot mountain, so pulling it down to a VP mechanic and back up isn't trivial (or free), which adds to my thought of just replacing the risers/manifolds and seeing if the problem is solved. What would you do? Appreciate any thoughts.
  5. Our boat - 2004 220ssi with VP 5.7 Gi, SX outdrive. ~160 hours total time since new. 1 time in salt water 3 years ago (flushed afterwards). The rest all fresh water. I've read several dozen posts here and on other sites, so my apologies for another thread on the topic. Put the boat in the water this weekend for the first time this year and "thought" everything was good to go. Let it idle in the slip for 15 minutes - solid temp of ~170. Smooth throttle. Rev'd in neutral to 3000 rpm for a couple minutes. Steady temp. After taxiing out of the marina and slow speed area (5-7 minutes underway) and then going WOT to get up to cruise (25 mph), we settled in. About 5 minutes later, temps rise to ~200 -210. I shut the engine down immediately and call the lake patrol for a tow back to the marina. At that moment, water pump housing was cold, no leaks, riser/elbows warm, but could easily hold hands on them for as long as I cared to. Back at the marina, I start to trouble shoot. First thing is a new impeller. Old one going on 3rd season. Not "bad", no missing fins, some minor cracking at the base of a few fins. After install, idle for 10 minutes - solid temp (170), cold pump housing, cold hose to thermo housing, risers are easy to touch. Rev to 3000 rpm and temp begins to rise - shut down. Second - ensure temp sensor connections are firm (I believe that's what they are) on back of both risers, both sides of the block at the drains, and at the thermo housing. Go through same test routine. Same results. I notice that the port riser cools a bit under high rpm (more water flushing through?) and that it is definitely cooler to the touch than the starboard riser - though both are easily touchable (for as long as I care to touch) as I see the temp rise. Are the two risers typically the same temp? Seems like they should be. I don't have an IR thermometer, but there was definitely a difference. 2 questions: Does this sound like clogged manifolds/risers (or perhaps just the starboard)?How does the temp gauge work? Are all 5 of those sensors I described actually temp sensors? Or is the temp sensor somewhere else? Do they feed a common circuit that then takes the "highest" reading and that's what shows on the temp gauge? Or?I don't think it's the thermo - the engine idles no problem for extended periods and maintains 170-175 degrees - though I could easily replace it (which I didn't do yet). Clogged PS cooler maybe - read a post about that, but symptoms aren't an exact match? Our boat is 2.5 hours away, so I'm not really able to do any more trouble shooting. But from what I've read, 10 years is a fairly predictable replacement range for fresh water operation. I'm considering purchasing manifolds/risers and just "throwing parts at the problem" DIY - seems doable except for potentially rusted mounting bolts. The boat is up a 8000 foot mountain, so pulling it down to a VP mechanic and back up isn't trivial (or free), which adds to my thought of just replacing the risers/manifolds and seeing if the problem is solved. What would you do? Appreciate any thoughts.
  6. Spanning Time

    New to big boating and need some help

    Guys, new to this sight, and a new chaparral owner. I was out this morning on Texoma cruising at about 25mph and heard an alarm. One solid beep, and then it stopped. I looked at the gauges and didnt see anything out of order. Then a short time later a second beep, then the port engine died, and i notice the temp was up (190-200). I didnt notice any loss of power prior to the engine stalling. I limped back to the marina on the remaining engine and when I returned, 2hrs later, I tried to start the motor. It would not start. Boat was serviced less than 25 hours ago (oil, impellars, ect). Manifolds replaced by last owner. Also, my generator quit working as well. It would start, then after a few minutes sputter and quit. Water was sporatically spraying out of the port side when the generator was on. This happened at the same time and I dont know if it is related. Prior to today, everything ran perfectly. Does the engine have a self protection program that shuts it down? Any thoughts? Thanks! 2005 330 Signature Twin 350 Mag Brovo 3 Spanning Time Texoma
  7. Help! 2006 signature with 5.0 mercruiser bravo III with 500 hours. Overheats above 3000 rpm, I have new risers and manifolds, new impeller. I swapped thermostat housings left to right which included thermostat, temperature sensor and temp switch. Externally inspected transom hose and it looks ok. Please, any ideas??? Thanks Jonathan
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