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Found 32 results

  1. I'm a new owner of an '02 260 SSI. Can anyone tell me if the batteries are installed correctly? Everything seems to be working fine but I want to make sure because they don't hold a charge very well. I had both batteries tested and they said they were good but only had 60% charge. The manual says to start the engine and then put the battery switch to the 1 position while driving to charge both batteries. Any help is appreciated. I have added a pic.
  2. My electric motor (Wireless Motorguide 12V) runs the battery down in about 10 minutes. I have an onboard charger which seems to charge the battery, but I still can't use the motor for very long. I'm stumped! There are alot of wires connected to the battery which I am not sure to what they are attached, including a couple going to the engine (Volvo). The wiring diagrams included in the owners manual don't really show any battery connections. I'm replacing the battery with a larger one and would like to get the wiring figured out!!!
  3. Sorry if this topic has been addressed here before, I actually did try to search!! OK, I need some advice from you electrical experts out here. I have a 2005 SSI 210 with the VP 5.0 GXI-E. A few years ago we added a wakeboard tower which also means tower speakers, stereo upgrade etc, etc. To give an idea of my power usage, the 4 cockpit speakers and 2 tower speakers are being driven by a Rockford Fosgate 800W amp and the 12" sub is in front of a 400W RF amp. With this upgrade also came a dual Optima battery set up with a battery switch (1,2,or 1&2). It is wired so I can use both batteries while running, and then switch to batt 2 when beached, isolating batt 1 so I can make it home. Now here is where my knowledge gets a little foggy. I am concerned the stock alternator is not enough to charge both batteries. I was told by the battery dealer that to properly charge, the alternator needs to be rated between 40-50% of the batteries rated power for AGM batteries. The amp hour rating is 55 per battery, giving me a rating of 110 amp hours. My owners manual says my stock alternator is 75 amp. The numbers add up that I should be where I need to be. I am looking for some opinions before I drop some BIG $$$ on a higher rated marine alternator, and possibly replacing wires with a heavier ones.
  4. my son put in a new battery but hooked it up backwards, it smoked the alternator but I re did the connections ,now motor cracks, all elec works but the alarm stays on when I turn the key, and fuel pump doesn't kick on and no spark
  5. I bought a 246 SSI and it runs great. It has relatively new batteries but I noticed that they drain very quickly (about a day) if I do not turn off the Pergo switch after using the boat. I made sure that all known drains are turned off such as the depth finder. I know that there are constant drains such as the radio memory, possibly CO detector, etc. But is this normal and something I just need to adapt to? My last boat (Four Winns 220 Horizon) didn't have this issue. In fact it only had one battery and could go at least a month before draining the battery. Any opinions from other owners?
  6. I am in the market for a portable and affordable jump starter for my 215 SSi with 5.0 Merc. I do not have a second battery installed; however, I do want a piece of mind if my primary battery does die while on the water. Can anyone recommend a reliable, affordable, and very portable jump starter that will meet my needs? I've seen prices range from $75 to $200. Thank you.
  7. I have a 1999 Signature 25 Cruiser that i bought used a couple of years ago. I've gotten several pieces of conflicting advice on the proper Electrical Panel and Battery Selector switch positions when using the internal battery charger to charge the battery when I have it out of the water for the winter and in its nice, warm, weather-protected garage. My "boat guy" says: Shore Power plugged in to 110 Volt AC Battery Selector Switch to "Both" AC Main to "On" AC Battery Charger to "On" DC Main to "On" That just seems like it's a lot of stuff "On", and I was wondering if my batteries will charge from Shore Power if the only thing I do is AC Main "On" and Battery Charger "On" ... with everything else (Battery Selector and DC Power) in the "Off" position? Anybody out there have an authoritative answer for me? Rusty in Bend (OR)
  8. OK, I need a little advice. I have a 2006 SSI 210. I currently have 2 optima batteries installed. The starting battery is a blue top AGM marine, and a deep cycle for the stereo, with a battery switch so I can isolate the starting battery when beached and have the tunes going. The stereo has 2 amps, a 250w driving a 12" sub, and a 500w for the interior and tower speakers. Both batteries are bad and need replaced. These were originally recommended to me by the stereo installer (I guess since he sells them also). Power is power right? Before I drop over 550 big ones on the same batteries, If I were able to find some wet cells that had the same ratings, everything should work just fine I assume. Does anybody know if the Optima deep cycle/dual purpose battery has longer reserve power? Right now, I can run that stereo for 4-5 hours with no issues. The ratings are starting battery: Optima SC34M MCA1000,, CCA 800, AH 50, RC 100. The deep cycle is Optima SC34DM, MCA 870, CCA 750, AH 55, RC 120.
  9. I'd like to have a new engine battery ready when my boat comes out of storage and I need to know what the dimensions need to be since for a 2000 Sunesta 232 it is a very tight fit.
  10. Purchased 5/2015 - 2006 246 SSI Volvo Penta 5.0 GXi , DP (Dual Batteries) So we purchased this boat at the beginning of the season, first boat and never were really involved in boating and not mechanically inclined. For winterization it needed a Tune Up ,as well as annual service. It only had 120 hrs on it and still had original plugs . On the invoice the mechanic wrote that the batteries are disconnected, reminding me to reconnect in spring. So here are my stupid newbie questions: A) How do I get the Hatch open if there is no power? Do these battery connect like car batteries? or will there be more to it? C) Will it be evident to me what to connect to what terminal? not sure if they will be just laying there or what? Be easy on me. Thanks D
  11. I replaced the house battery in my 08 Sig 290. I have the three battery set up (port engine, starboard engine, house) with the four switches (one for each battery and one emergency switch to hook them all together). I have changed out all three batteries before and never had an issue. The engine batteries are AGM and the house battery is lead-acid, just as they were when I bought the boat. The boat is in a slip with shore power and has a battery charger that has worked like a charm since new. My end of run process is pretty detailed and I always have the batteries on the charger when not using the boat. The new house battery was charged and tested before I installed it. That was two months ago. The boat ran great and then in September I had a lot of travel and other competing demands that kept me off the boat for a couple of weeks. Got back on it last weekend and as soon as I turn on the house battery the low charge alarm starts to go off (one short beep every 10-15 seconds). No power from the house battery. The engine batteries crank like always and I took the boat out with all three batteries in the "on" position. Did not have to link the batteries using the emergency switch. Before leaving the slip, I checked the battery connections -- all tight, and the charger appeared to be working. Put the boat up like always -- battery switches off, AC shore power feeding the panel and the battery charger (and the two refrigerators). Today went back to check and the house battery is again very weak -- barely powered the interior lights -- and the alarm began to sound again. Does anybody have any ideas? Thanks
  12. Not sure what this is? Is this a device that allows both batteries to be charged despite the switch position?
  13. So.... I have been checking out these awesome boats for some time. With the holiday weekend approaching fast, I decided to pull the trigger on a 2015 Vortex 203. I went to the only authorized dealer in the area despite all the bad online reviews. After paying for the boat, filling it up with gas and getting it in the water, I started to notice issues. First, the neutral idle is at 2k RPMS. This obviously makes to boat go forward and there's no way it can be on without moving. Second, after navigating out of the canal at 5MPH, I punched it..... WOW! What a loud boat at 8-9k RPMS. You would think I was going super fast..... NOPE. Still 8-10 MPH. Let off the gas and let water get tot he back of the boat..... Then hit it..... You get a better result. This does not seem right at all. Third... Let do some digging into our paperwork. No DVD, No owners manual, no papers, no diagrams... NOTHING. At this point, no need for counting. After 3 counted hours of the same issues.... Now the battery light in on, the check engine light is one, the service engine soon light is on..... AND the boat seems to simply cut off wen running at full speed. If you try to accelerate too fast, you just get major sputtering and the throttle just stops working all together. Did I mention the rear light pole is majorly bent, the seal around the windshield is torn in several places, the instrument panel has glue spots all over, the gas gauge show 3/4 of a tank right after I fill it up, there's a hole on one of the rear seats and there appears to be clear silicone caulk around one of the ports in the rear of the boat? After investigating a bit, I hear I could be suffering from cavitation and it may be an impeller issue. So, I pull the boat out of the water and investigate.... The impeller has chip marks on the blades. This helps explain but still does not explain all the issues with the engine, battery, etc. I simply cannot imagine this is a product that Chaparral signed off on and sent to the dealer. Can anyone help me with what my next move should be?
  14. All, The red cable going from my engine to the battery is overly long. It's at least 3ft and I only need a 18" power cable. The extra dangle by the belts. Makes me nervous Any idea what the correct size should be? I thinks it's a 4/0 gauge. Is that correct? Secondly, it's goes to the starter correct? (Not engine like said above) the starter connecter has dark dirty greas on its connector. Do you think that's the electro grease stuff? Should I wipe off and apply clean clear grease?
  15. All, The red cable going from my engine to the battery is overly long. It's at least 3ft and I only need a 18" power cable. The extra dangle by the belts. Makes me nervous Any idea what the correct size should be? I thinks it's a 4/0 gauge. Is that correct? Secondly, it's goes to the starter correct? (Not engine like said above) the starter connecter has dark dirty greas on its connector. Do you think that's the electro grease stuff? Should I wipe off and apply clean clear grease?
  16. Hi, I have a 2012 SF19H2O that always seems to not want to start. I replaced the cranking battery and now after a few times out it won't start again. Can someone tell me where to find the Alternator - I think it is on the wall next to the battery but the parts guide does not list it. Also, how do I test it - I know how to test it in a car - start the car - unhook the battery and put a meter on it, is it the same for this boat? What should I expect for output? Thank you so much for you help.
  17. I recently bought a 2005 Chapparal 236SSi with the Volvo 5.7L. Water test went great, got to take the the boat on the water once and it ran great. I went out of town for a few weeks and tried starting it up this morning. Nothing. Each of the batteries was reading about 12V. I hooked up the charger and still nothing. When I attempt to start all of my electronics come on and I get good voltage readings. I previously owned a 180 Monterey with a 3.0L Mercruiser and a single battery. I have a fear from reading a related topic earlier this morning. When I took the boat out of the water a few weeks ago I was running the engine to purge the salt water. I got careless with the battery switch and turned it the wrong way and went to OFF vice BOTH. This instantly killed the engine. I am almost certain that after turning it back to the start battery I ran it some more. Suggestions?
  18. Hi, I have a 2012 SF19H2O that always seems to not want to start. I replaced the cranking battery and now after a few times out it won't start again. Can someone tell me where to find the Alternator - I think it is on the wall next to the battery but the parts guide does not list it. Also, how do I test it - I know how to test it in a car - start the car - unhook the battery and put a meter on it, is it the same for this boat? What should I expect for output? Thank you so much for you help.
  19. I got Sunesta 24 2006. Double battery crossover switch just fell apart in my hands. It's located on the back wall behind the main seat and it is not easy to remove. I unscrewed 4 holding fixtures but I guess the wiring is too short to let a whole piece to come out off the wall, it seems like there is no access to that area behind the wall, so I'm kinda stuck. Any help is greatly appreciated.
  20. I got Sunesta 24 2006. Double battery crossover switch just fell apart in my hands. It's located on the back wall behind the main seat and it is not easy to remove. I unscrewed 4 holding fixtures but I guess the wiring is too short to let a whole piece to come out off the wall, it seems like there is no access to that area behind the wall, so I'm kinda stuck. Any help is greatly appreciated.
  21. Hi, my brother in law and I recently purchased a used Signature 25 series boat, model year 1995. The manual that comes with it is somewhat unhelpful as it always talks about just one battery switch for the boat. Weirdly, our boat seems to have two (see attached picture) and we are havig difficulties figuring out the right combination of switch positions for starting the boat (single engine), charging the two batteries and providing boat power with the engine turned off. I'm hoping that someone here could help us out! Thank you!
  22. Just FYI ... while replacing the batteries I had reviewed the battery connections on my boat and finally discovered what the two small gauge wires connected to starting battery are for. I thought they power the VP ECM and/or by necessity are connected to starting battery ... well, not really. They power exclusively VP Active Corrosion Protection System (ACPS), and based on VP documentation they should be connected to house battery as the ACPS can and will drain the starting battery with time. The ACSP wires were routed and connected to the starting battery on my boat at the factor. Why ... who knows? This explains my problems with weak starting battery after overnights on anchor. The battery eventually died last October while the boat was moored and waiting for the fall service at the servicing marina ... lucky me. You might not be that lucky ... check the connections and switch the ACPS connection from starting to house battery if that is the case on your boat. Hope this helps ...
  23. I have a question regarding the configuration of batteries in our new-to-us 250 Signature. This boat normally comes from the factory with two batteries…one engine battery and one house battery. Our boat has been modified to include a third battery (one cranking battery and two deep cycle batteries). I am trying to understand the logic in the way the third battery was installed. The boat was upgraded with a premium stereo system and radar. I presumed the additional deep cycle battery was so that I had two deep cycle house batteries to better run the stereo. However, in the “house battery circuit”, there is simply one deep cycle battery (just like it comes from the factory). In the “engine battery circuit”, there is one cranking battery and one deep cycle battery in parallel with each other. Any ideas on the logic of this setup? I have half a mind to reconfigure it so that the two deep cycle batteries act as “house batteries” and dedicate the cranking battery to the engine battery circuit. Why would I need a deep cycle battery in the engine battery circuit? Of course, I can switch the “emergency” battery switch to the “on” position which enables all batteries to be used (and charged via alternator), but doesn’t that harm the cranking battery if it were to be deep cycled? Very confused.
  24. So here's the rub: we have a "family" boat, meaning that it is shared among young and old alike. The "kids" (hardly young enough to be called that anymore) would like to put a subwoofer on board and I think it's a fine idea as long as it's not going to melt the boat into a pile of stinking plastic. The plan is for a removable set-up (see "Family boat" for the reasoning there). The sub/amp set-up/wiring/etc is from a car and works just fine. (I know it's not marine, but it's never going to live on the boat and it's never going to be left out in the elements and anyway it's mine and if it breaks, well then that's what happens and I learn my lesson. ) It's big enough to "be awesome" and small enough that it can be carted off the boat when the adults want a boat with storage not taken up by one enormous speaker. NOW TO THE ACTUAL QUESTIONS: (1) Is there any reason why the boat battery / alternator / (and especially) battery cross-over should not and cannot be hooked up to power a 750 watt (when bridged) amplifier? I should note that when this the boat is typically run off of battery 1, and this will be hooked up to battery 2. I will either run the boat on battery 2 when the amp is hooked up, or else run on BOTH depending on the advice I get here. (2) Is there any reason why the power and ground wires to the amplifier should not or cannot be hooked up directly to the battery terminals with good strong alligator clips? I don't foresee this being a problem with the 12V power supply - I am more wondering about grounding directly to the battery terminal as I have never used a set-up like this before. (3) Seriously, am I going to mess up my batteries or my cross-over or anything? That is my biggest and most major concern. Thanks.
  25. I have a 2008 Chaparral 256 SSX with two batteries. The boat sits idle on a boat lift in SW Florida for months at a time. Unfortunately, I have not yet hooked the boat up to a trickle charger as I'm not sure if this is a do-it-yourself job. I have power at my dock, so I would prefer not to use the basic solar chargers, unless feedback suggests that they are sufficient. Any suggestions?