Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'battery'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Contests!!
    • Contests!!
    • Polls!!
  • Chaparral Boats Forum
    • Boat Talk
    • Dock Talk
    • Newbies
    • Info Center
  • Regional Forums
    • Midwest U.S.
    • Northeast U.S.
    • South Central U.S.
    • Southeastern U.S.
    • West Coast U.S.
    • Northwest U.S.
    • Rocky Mountain Region U.S.
    • Eastern Canada
    • Western Canada
    • International Boating
  • Suggestions & Comments
    • Site Suggestions & Comments
  • Gulf Coast

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests

Found 36 results

  1. Rv batteries are important components as they provide the power necessary for the vehicle to run. As a result, any damage to it will affect the rv in many ways. However, battery explosions are even more dangerous and can cause severe injuries to those standing near it. In addition, losing the battery means you will be unable to make any trips for a while. There are a number of reasons for an explosion but most of them can be avoided. Here are seven things you can do to keep your rv battery from exploding. 01. Don’t overcharge it An rv battery is designed to absorb a particular amount of current to enable it charge and store energy. However, charging it for too long allows too much current to pass through the battery and this could easily lead to an explosion. Batteries often come with sensors that monitor the voltage level but these might not work and it is important to check the voltage reading when the battery is charging. Disconnect the battery if it looks like it is overcharging. 02. Keep it hydrated Water is an important ingredient in the electrolyte of deep cycle batteries and it needs to be constantly replaced. Certain types of rv batteries lose water when they’re in use and this affects the fluidity of the electrolyte. Charging the battery in this state will most certainly lead to an explosion. 03. Ensure proper wiring Proper wiring is important in any kind of battery. This is because connections that are lose can lead to sparks. These sparks could easily be ignited by heat or accumulated hydrogen deposits from leaking batteries. Ensure that all are tight and firm. Inspect all connections before and after travelling as part of mandatory safety and maintenance checks. 04. Avoid overheating An rv deep cycle battery is wired to store energy to keep the vehicle running. In certain situations, it builds up internal heat instead. Hydrogen gas piles up as a result and this could trigger an explosion. A good example is attempting to charge a frozen battery. It would not charge and the heat it generates can make it explode at any time. 05. Proper ventilation It is important to have enough air around the battery to avoid explosions in hot, smoky surroundings. hydrogen often seeps out of a battery and this can be easily blow up if it comes in touch with sparks. Avoid smoking around the battery as well. A lack of ventilation can easily make it explode. 06. Replace bloated batteries When there is too much pressure in an rv battery, it is essentially a canister waiting to explode. This is because there’s too much hydrogen gas in the battery and it is trying to get out. Charging this kind of battery could make it explode. Replace such batteries as soon as possible. 07. Keep an eye on the polarity Positive and negative terminals are so common that it could be taken for granted. When connecting an rv battery to a charger, it is vital to ensure that the connections are correct. Reversing the polarity damages the battery beyond repair and it could explode the next time you try to charge it. Buy batteries that have connection warning features to prevent this from happening. Last Words An rv battery explosion has all kinds of consequences. You will need to spend some money to replace it and it might injure you or other people as well. You might also be unable to travel for a while. These seven tips should keep your battery safe and running smoothly for a long period of time. Resources: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZJD19RogRtg https://rvside.com/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q8ZZpkhZQ7I
  2. boaterguy

    Is an Optima battery worth it?

    OK, I need a little advice. I have a 2006 SSI 210. I currently have 2 optima batteries installed. The starting battery is a blue top AGM marine, and a deep cycle for the stereo, with a battery switch so I can isolate the starting battery when beached and have the tunes going. The stereo has 2 amps, a 250w driving a 12" sub, and a 500w for the interior and tower speakers. Both batteries are bad and need replaced. These were originally recommended to me by the stereo installer (I guess since he sells them also). Power is power right? Before I drop over 550 big ones on the same batteries, If I were able to find some wet cells that had the same ratings, everything should work just fine I assume. Does anybody know if the Optima deep cycle/dual purpose battery has longer reserve power? Right now, I can run that stereo for 4-5 hours with no issues. The ratings are starting battery: Optima SC34M MCA1000,, CCA 800, AH 50, RC 100. The deep cycle is Optima SC34DM, MCA 870, CCA 750, AH 55, RC 120.
  3. Jomace

    Newbie needs help

    I have a 2003 chaparral signature, I bought in April, it has run great and haven't had any problems until yesterday. I was moored on the beach and when it was time to leave my boat would start then immediately die It did this about 10 times, then we pushed the throttle down and got it to start. was able to get back to my dock, shut is down and it started back up. let it sit without shore power for about an hour tried starting it and it immediately died. Hooked it up to shore power left it over night, went to start it up and it started right up with no problems. I am afraid to take it out on lake Michigan if I can't trust it. I thinking it could be a fuel issue as I hear my fuel pump run constantly when I turn on my batteries ( is this normal) , or a battery issue. ( am I supposed to switch from shore to AC main when I am out on the water?) Any help would be appreciated.
  4. Gene Larew

    alternator issue? new to boating

    Hello, new to boating. 1st time out with a 2006 Chap 210SSI 5.0 Merc 160 hrs. Dual batteries with the 1/2/both/off switch system. Started fine and idled fine—-out of marina and when any throttle given, the dash battery gauge jumps around erratically and the boat loses power. If I then back off on the throttle , down to barely in gear) it would run fine. I tried switching from batt 2–batt2-both and the same problem. After 15 min of this, it finally shut off and would not even attempt to start-totally dead. I got a tow into my slip and when I hooked up the on board charger at the dock and turned the key I had power. Any ideas? Thanks for the help in advance
  5. Spinelli

    Battery selection

    JUst bought my boat and looking at the batteries, one of them is a year old, not sure of the age of the second, they are both Deep Cycle batteries. MY question is am I better off with one deep cycle and one starter. I'll probably replace one of the batteries in the spring but just wanted to start thinking about it now.
  6. A-Aron

    Battery setup

    I'm a new owner of an '02 260 SSI. Can anyone tell me if the batteries are installed correctly? Everything seems to be working fine but I want to make sure because they don't hold a charge very well. I had both batteries tested and they said they were good but only had 60% charge. The manual says to start the engine and then put the battery switch to the 1 position while driving to charge both batteries. Any help is appreciated. I have added a pic.
  7. Tomsena

    Electric Motor Problem

    My electric motor (Wireless Motorguide 12V) runs the battery down in about 10 minutes. I have an onboard charger which seems to charge the battery, but I still can't use the motor for very long. I'm stumped! There are alot of wires connected to the battery which I am not sure to what they are attached, including a couple going to the engine (Volvo). The wiring diagrams included in the owners manual don't really show any battery connections. I'm replacing the battery with a larger one and would like to get the wiring figured out!!!
  8. boaterguy

    Is my alternator enough?

    Sorry if this topic has been addressed here before, I actually did try to search!! OK, I need some advice from you electrical experts out here. I have a 2005 SSI 210 with the VP 5.0 GXI-E. A few years ago we added a wakeboard tower which also means tower speakers, stereo upgrade etc, etc. To give an idea of my power usage, the 4 cockpit speakers and 2 tower speakers are being driven by a Rockford Fosgate 800W amp and the 12" sub is in front of a 400W RF amp. With this upgrade also came a dual Optima battery set up with a battery switch (1,2,or 1&2). It is wired so I can use both batteries while running, and then switch to batt 2 when beached, isolating batt 1 so I can make it home. Now here is where my knowledge gets a little foggy. I am concerned the stock alternator is not enough to charge both batteries. I was told by the battery dealer that to properly charge, the alternator needs to be rated between 40-50% of the batteries rated power for AGM batteries. The amp hour rating is 55 per battery, giving me a rating of 110 amp hours. My owners manual says my stock alternator is 75 amp. The numbers add up that I should be where I need to be. I am looking for some opinions before I drop some BIG $$$ on a higher rated marine alternator, and possibly replacing wires with a heavier ones.
  9. my son put in a new battery but hooked it up backwards, it smoked the alternator but I re did the connections ,now motor cracks, all elec works but the alarm stays on when I turn the key, and fuel pump doesn't kick on and no spark
  10. Lt. Dan D

    Battery Drain

    I bought a 246 SSI and it runs great. It has relatively new batteries but I noticed that they drain very quickly (about a day) if I do not turn off the Pergo switch after using the boat. I made sure that all known drains are turned off such as the depth finder. I know that there are constant drains such as the radio memory, possibly CO detector, etc. But is this normal and something I just need to adapt to? My last boat (Four Winns 220 Horizon) didn't have this issue. In fact it only had one battery and could go at least a month before draining the battery. Any opinions from other owners?
  11. Slapshot

    Jump Starter

    I am in the market for a portable and affordable jump starter for my 215 SSi with 5.0 Merc. I do not have a second battery installed; however, I do want a piece of mind if my primary battery does die while on the water. Can anyone recommend a reliable, affordable, and very portable jump starter that will meet my needs? I've seen prices range from $75 to $200. Thank you.
  12. I have a 1999 Signature 25 Cruiser that i bought used a couple of years ago. I've gotten several pieces of conflicting advice on the proper Electrical Panel and Battery Selector switch positions when using the internal battery charger to charge the battery when I have it out of the water for the winter and in its nice, warm, weather-protected garage. My "boat guy" says: Shore Power plugged in to 110 Volt AC Battery Selector Switch to "Both" AC Main to "On" AC Battery Charger to "On" DC Main to "On" That just seems like it's a lot of stuff "On", and I was wondering if my batteries will charge from Shore Power if the only thing I do is AC Main "On" and Battery Charger "On" ... with everything else (Battery Selector and DC Power) in the "Off" position? Anybody out there have an authoritative answer for me? Rusty in Bend (OR)
  13. I'd like to have a new engine battery ready when my boat comes out of storage and I need to know what the dimensions need to be since for a 2000 Sunesta 232 it is a very tight fit.
  14. Purchased 5/2015 - 2006 246 SSI Volvo Penta 5.0 GXi , DP (Dual Batteries) So we purchased this boat at the beginning of the season, first boat and never were really involved in boating and not mechanically inclined. For winterization it needed a Tune Up ,as well as annual service. It only had 120 hrs on it and still had original plugs . On the invoice the mechanic wrote that the batteries are disconnected, reminding me to reconnect in spring. So here are my stupid newbie questions: A) How do I get the Hatch open if there is no power? Do these battery connect like car batteries? or will there be more to it? C) Will it be evident to me what to connect to what terminal? not sure if they will be just laying there or what? Be easy on me. Thanks D
  15. I replaced the house battery in my 08 Sig 290. I have the three battery set up (port engine, starboard engine, house) with the four switches (one for each battery and one emergency switch to hook them all together). I have changed out all three batteries before and never had an issue. The engine batteries are AGM and the house battery is lead-acid, just as they were when I bought the boat. The boat is in a slip with shore power and has a battery charger that has worked like a charm since new. My end of run process is pretty detailed and I always have the batteries on the charger when not using the boat. The new house battery was charged and tested before I installed it. That was two months ago. The boat ran great and then in September I had a lot of travel and other competing demands that kept me off the boat for a couple of weeks. Got back on it last weekend and as soon as I turn on the house battery the low charge alarm starts to go off (one short beep every 10-15 seconds). No power from the house battery. The engine batteries crank like always and I took the boat out with all three batteries in the "on" position. Did not have to link the batteries using the emergency switch. Before leaving the slip, I checked the battery connections -- all tight, and the charger appeared to be working. Put the boat up like always -- battery switches off, AC shore power feeding the panel and the battery charger (and the two refrigerators). Today went back to check and the house battery is again very weak -- barely powered the interior lights -- and the alarm began to sound again. Does anybody have any ideas? Thanks
  16. drewm3i

    Anyone know what this is?

    Not sure what this is? Is this a device that allows both batteries to be charged despite the switch position?
  17. So.... I have been checking out these awesome boats for some time. With the holiday weekend approaching fast, I decided to pull the trigger on a 2015 Vortex 203. I went to the only authorized dealer in the area despite all the bad online reviews. After paying for the boat, filling it up with gas and getting it in the water, I started to notice issues. First, the neutral idle is at 2k RPMS. This obviously makes to boat go forward and there's no way it can be on without moving. Second, after navigating out of the canal at 5MPH, I punched it..... WOW! What a loud boat at 8-9k RPMS. You would think I was going super fast..... NOPE. Still 8-10 MPH. Let off the gas and let water get tot he back of the boat..... Then hit it..... You get a better result. This does not seem right at all. Third... Let do some digging into our paperwork. No DVD, No owners manual, no papers, no diagrams... NOTHING. At this point, no need for counting. After 3 counted hours of the same issues.... Now the battery light in on, the check engine light is one, the service engine soon light is on..... AND the boat seems to simply cut off wen running at full speed. If you try to accelerate too fast, you just get major sputtering and the throttle just stops working all together. Did I mention the rear light pole is majorly bent, the seal around the windshield is torn in several places, the instrument panel has glue spots all over, the gas gauge show 3/4 of a tank right after I fill it up, there's a hole on one of the rear seats and there appears to be clear silicone caulk around one of the ports in the rear of the boat? After investigating a bit, I hear I could be suffering from cavitation and it may be an impeller issue. So, I pull the boat out of the water and investigate.... The impeller has chip marks on the blades. This helps explain but still does not explain all the issues with the engine, battery, etc. I simply cannot imagine this is a product that Chaparral signed off on and sent to the dealer. Can anyone help me with what my next move should be?
  18. simmer

    battery wire question

    All, The red cable going from my engine to the battery is overly long. It's at least 3ft and I only need a 18" power cable. The extra dangle by the belts. Makes me nervous Any idea what the correct size should be? I thinks it's a 4/0 gauge. Is that correct? Secondly, it's goes to the starter correct? (Not engine like said above) the starter connecter has dark dirty greas on its connector. Do you think that's the electro grease stuff? Should I wipe off and apply clean clear grease?
  19. simmer

    battery wire question

    All, The red cable going from my engine to the battery is overly long. It's at least 3ft and I only need a 18" power cable. The extra dangle by the belts. Makes me nervous Any idea what the correct size should be? I thinks it's a 4/0 gauge. Is that correct? Secondly, it's goes to the starter correct? (Not engine like said above) the starter connecter has dark dirty greas on its connector. Do you think that's the electro grease stuff? Should I wipe off and apply clean clear grease?
  20. Hi, I have a 2012 SF19H2O that always seems to not want to start. I replaced the cranking battery and now after a few times out it won't start again. Can someone tell me where to find the Alternator - I think it is on the wall next to the battery but the parts guide does not list it. Also, how do I test it - I know how to test it in a car - start the car - unhook the battery and put a meter on it, is it the same for this boat? What should I expect for output? Thank you so much for you help.
  21. PensacolaHusky

    Boat Won't Start

    I recently bought a 2005 Chapparal 236SSi with the Volvo 5.7L. Water test went great, got to take the the boat on the water once and it ran great. I went out of town for a few weeks and tried starting it up this morning. Nothing. Each of the batteries was reading about 12V. I hooked up the charger and still nothing. When I attempt to start all of my electronics come on and I get good voltage readings. I previously owned a 180 Monterey with a 3.0L Mercruiser and a single battery. I have a fear from reading a related topic earlier this morning. When I took the boat out of the water a few weeks ago I was running the engine to purge the salt water. I got careless with the battery switch and turned it the wrong way and went to OFF vice BOTH. This instantly killed the engine. I am almost certain that after turning it back to the start battery I ran it some more. Suggestions?
  22. Hi, I have a 2012 SF19H2O that always seems to not want to start. I replaced the cranking battery and now after a few times out it won't start again. Can someone tell me where to find the Alternator - I think it is on the wall next to the battery but the parts guide does not list it. Also, how do I test it - I know how to test it in a car - start the car - unhook the battery and put a meter on it, is it the same for this boat? What should I expect for output? Thank you so much for you help.
  23. I got Sunesta 24 2006. Double battery crossover switch just fell apart in my hands. It's located on the back wall behind the main seat and it is not easy to remove. I unscrewed 4 holding fixtures but I guess the wiring is too short to let a whole piece to come out off the wall, it seems like there is no access to that area behind the wall, so I'm kinda stuck. Any help is greatly appreciated.
  24. I got Sunesta 24 2006. Double battery crossover switch just fell apart in my hands. It's located on the back wall behind the main seat and it is not easy to remove. I unscrewed 4 holding fixtures but I guess the wiring is too short to let a whole piece to come out off the wall, it seems like there is no access to that area behind the wall, so I'm kinda stuck. Any help is greatly appreciated.
  25. Hi, my brother in law and I recently purchased a used Signature 25 series boat, model year 1995. The manual that comes with it is somewhat unhelpful as it always talks about just one battery switch for the boat. Weirdly, our boat seems to have two (see attached picture) and we are havig difficulties figuring out the right combination of switch positions for starting the boat (single engine), charging the two batteries and providing boat power with the engine turned off. I'm hoping that someone here could help us out! Thank you!
×