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Found 37 results

  1. bjnacc

    Vortex 203 Waterskiing

    Hi all. We have put a deposit down on a Vortex 203 VRX. We will be doing an on-water test next week and hopefully finalizing the purchase. I have a question for all the 203 owners out there with the single Rotax 250 HP engine. Is it enough to pull a medium sized slalom skier up from a deep-water start? I'm much more interested in fuel economy than going super fast...but I do need it to have enough grunt to pull a skier out of the water. My dealership is telling me that the Rotax will supply plenty of power...but I'm not convinced. I spent 15 years skiing behind a Bayliner with a 135 HP I/O prop set-up. It had barely enough power to ski behind...I know 250 is a lot more but then I've read that jet HP is not equivalent to prop HP...is this true? I would normally just get in the water and test it out for myself...but we are several months away from warm enough weather up North to even attempt getting wet. And I don't think the break-in restriction programming would even allow us to get up to ski speeds for the first 10 hours anyways.
  2. Greetings - A tree at the camp fell and broke my drivers side clear glass. My marina said to just get a new boat (not helpful). It is Taylor Clear Curve, measures 27 1/2 inches along the walkthrough frame. I imagine that these panels were used by manufacturer's on many bowriders. I found a similar panel for sale on e-bay- seller says came from a 1994 1930, but dimensions are nearly exact. Might the 1930 and 1800 have shared the same curved glass from Taylor? Does anyone have any comments or suggestions for me? I contacted Taylor directly but no response. Thank you Chappy's.
  3. Greetings - A tree at the camp fell and broke my drivers side clear glass. My marina said to just get a new boat (not helpful). It is Taylor Clear Curve, measures 27 1/2 inches along the walkthrough frame. I imagine that these panels were used by manufacturer's on many bowriders. I found a similar panel for sale on e-bay- seller says came from a 1994 1930, but dimensions are nearly exact. Might the 1930 and 1800 have shared the same curved glass from Taylor? Does anyone have any comments or suggestions for me? I contacted Taylor directly but no response. Thank you Chappy's.
  4. Hello All, I've decided to take fixing my boat into my own hands after a long list of failures by the dealer and mechanics. Up until about two years ago my 2013 310 signature has been running and working fine. After about two years of on and off neglect, it ended up having a gear oil leak and growth on the engines and hull, it needed to be hauled and fixed up. So far two mechanics have attempted to fix the enormous issues with this boat to no success. We've spent over 40,000 to have two drives replaced, on parts and labor. Then we got hit with a surprise 8000 bill for the boatyard while the mechanics lazily worked on the boat for nearly a year. Currently the boat is back together and will run in guardian mode. After being uncovered while in the boat yard for a year, the Garmin GPS and VHF no longer work. AS for the engines: All of the sensors are going wild on the port engine. and an occasional sensor on the starboard side. The mechanic has stated that all of the sensors are wrong, the oil is fine, the coolant and sea water pump are both okay as well. On the off chance that it isn't in guardian mode it will get up on plane and up to 33 knots. But nearly the entire time we can't go above 6 knots, can't get on plane, and the engine alarms are sounding the entire time. The mechanic claims to have replaced all sensors with no success. He is saying crazy theories about how it may have been struck by lighting and the wiring system is all messed up. Current overall issues with the boat: The engine sensors / boat won't get on plane / limited to 5-7 knots issue. (stuck in guardian mode) The toilet won't flush, the light in the head is always red and never green. (I suspect the vacuum pump is broken) The bilge pump float isn't operational, the pump itself works when activated from the helm, but not via float. The air conditioner will run in fan mode but never gets cold in AC mode, also appears to have mold on the return vent. The generator will not run at all. Has been serviced with tune up, oil change, sparks, carb etc. The shore power seems to be messed up. I have had four separate 30A-shorepower-cords catch fire at the lighthouse connection on three separate docks. (this first happened during the first month of ownership, unrelated to the neglect, the dealer was also of no help.) The rear storage hatch pops up when hitting waves and the boat bounces, it seems the latch can't hold it. The gas indicator gauge doesn't work. On one engine or another, one or more of the following are non- or malfunctioning: Trim, battery voltage, oil, rpm. The GPS won't turn on The VHF won't turn on. The engine hatch won't open. Every time I try to use hatch it will move up extremely slowly and the pop the breaker after 3-4 seconds. eventually I will get open enough to fit in, but takes about an hour. Both radio remote controls are non functioning, look water / sun damaged. The seats are all sun damaged. (the boat was left uncovered with engine hatch open for at least six months we suspect. The water smells gross / moldy after several flushings with fresh water. The middle glass hatch to walk-up through, flew off while underway. I was wondering where to purchase a new one? The screws holding the hardtop to the support rails bounce out while underway. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I love the boat, want to keep using it and start taking it to The Bahamas, if it could be trusted. I can't afford to hire too many more repairmen and none of them can seem to be trusted. I'm pretty handy myself and would rather money go to repairs than labor whenever possible. Please let me know any other info or media which may be helpful. Best, and thank you!
  5. So disappointed in all involved here. A couple weeks ago my 2013 244 Sunesta started acting strange. It seemed to struggle getting into gear. In fact, I could let go of the throttle and count to 5 and then it would clunk into gear and engage the prop. This happened both in forward and reverse. I took the boat in for service. After inspecting the boat, they determined a bad “Cone Clutch”. They indicated a full rebuild of the lower unit would be necessary. I have a Mercury 2 yr warranty and a Brunswick +3 year extended warranty, but the claim was denied. After reading the covered items, it is clear to me these repairs should have be covered. The technician mentioned this failure is likely from improper cable adjustment from the factory. I contacted Brunswick to get a better understanding of the denied claim. I was told the “Passport” warranty is the cheapest warranty they provide and basically covers nothing. I am very disappointed in the failure of my boat, but I am even more upset about the lack of warranty coverage for the failure. This is a $2500 repair on a boat that is 3 years old. This is not something caused by me, just poor quality by Mercury and Chaparral. Anyone have any advice on how to proceed? This just doesn't seem right.
  6. Have a Chaparral sunesta 220. Need to replace the flywheel housing and believe I need to pull the motor, or maybe move it forward?. I have removed the outdrive. Is this a job that is fairly straight forward? Need any expensive tools? I've pulled a seadoo motor, but don't have tons of mechanical experience. Have a shop and lots of tools....anyone pulled a similar motor?
  7. I called the dealer to purchase the factory table and the price was $975. After some internet research I was able to find the manufacture and order the parts garelick 75337-01. Total cost after shipping was $319 for the complete table assembly from Autoplicity. I also purchased an additional side mount base for $51 from Wholesale Marine. There is an aluminum table leg option too. It is less expensive but I chose to stick with SS like the factory. The last things I need are the table leg storage clips and determine where and how the table top is stored. If someone who has the table option could measure the base mount location both distance from cusion base and distance from right edge. (see picture below) A picture showing the table top stored would be helpful too.
  8. Hey guys, brand new to the forums and to owning my first Chaparral. It's a 1999 2330 SS with a 5.7 injected small block and a Bravo 3. I did quite a lot of research and had the boat inspected prior to purchase, and it appears to be a nice family owned boat since new, allegedly still has the original upholstery and I see nothing to dissuade me from believing that. The above being said, I've read many things bashing Bravo 3's and especially concerning corrosion. I won't be keeping the boat in the water and I'm a fresh water boater, so that shouldn't be a major issue for me. Also, all sacrificial anodes are installed and in good condition. Are there any issues I should be aware of with 350 mpi and Bravo 3 combo? other than they are more expensive to maintain and repair compared to an Alpha) Thanks all and I look forward to getting the boat in the water soon! (I'm currently having all fluids and impeller changed and one more once over of the mechanicals and electronics before I get her wet!) Thanks again!
  9. Slapshot

    Wish I had $4000

    I know I already have a Chaparral, but I wish I had $4000 of disposable income lying around so I could purchase a project boat. Check these out: https://altoona.craigslist.org/boa/6139767659.html https://altoona.craigslist.org/boa/6105306646.html
  10. Onefastaudi

    Windlass issue

    Hello y'all, tried to drop anchor and windlass was inoperable. I replaced the 2 foot switches that were old and dried up. Today, I pushed on the windlass button and the breaker popped. Does anybody have encountered similar issue? i'm thinking solenoid? Thank you all as always
  11. Onefastaudi

    New job!

    Well, after 13 years in the car business, I decided to try something new! So I followed my passion for boats and now I work here: http://www.nauticgroup.com Hopefully it will work out. I hope you all had a great boating weekend. it was cooking hot here!
  12. Pinto

    Volvo Penta 5.0 L GL engine

    bought this boat in July and love it. I get a max speed of 43 MPH from GPS at 4500-4700 RPM WOT. Seems a little low and engine bogs down a bit if I run WOT for more than a min. or so. seems to be fuel starved. I just replaced the fuel filter with an OEM part. The fuel pump is 1 year old. If I run the boat at low rpm it for awhile, it will stall and crank but not restart unless I take off the fuel filter and refill with gas. My first thought is the fuel pump, but since it is not very old, not sure. any ideas?
  13. Icebear244

    2013 Sunesta 244 vs. 2016 226 SSi

    I am currently struggling between two "final" choices, a 2016 226 SSi and a 2013 244 Sunesta. Both after my negotiation are equal in price ($55k) and I was able to a comparable rate and payments are within $20 of each other. I walked into the Chaparrel dealership torn between the 224 Sunesta (my initial first choice) and the 226 SSi and 227 SSX. With trailer the 224 Sunesta quickly priced itself out of the budget I set myself. Then because the queen bee liked the pasenger bucket vs. the Oasis lounge, ended on the 226 SSi. We test drove it, and enjoyed it very much. Engine is the Mercury Gen V 1.97-SX 240 HP V6 w/ short riser. THEN, at the Cobalt dealership a mile down the road we noticed the 2013 Chaparral 244 Sunesta with the Volvo Penta 5.0 GXi DP 270 HP. It has both the Convenience and Premium package and is a one owner (113 hours) an executive at BB&T Bank. One "major" difference is the 2016 for end of season is coming with a 5 year bumper to bumper warranty along with the lifetime hull. The 2013 we would need to add and pay for an extended warranty (would this be recommended)...so... It is my girlfriend and I and I have 4 kids, 11, 12, 14, and 16. We do lake boating, but hope to expand our experience, maybe even the Keys. Etc. THOUGHTS???
  14. Onefastaudi

    Sea strainer help needed

    Hello y'all and happy Friday! Could anybody tell what brand are my sea strainers on my 2002 350 Sig? i cleaned them and found out my upper seals were worn, sadly, 2 marine supply places and 2 hardware stores could not provide me a matching seal. And the two marine supplier could not even identify the brand of the strainers. I have attached pics, thank you for you r help and happy boating! Chris
  15. Tone Perrone

    2003 Sunesta 243 port windshield

    I am looking for a port side anodized windshield for my 2003 243 Sunesta, any ideas where I can find one.? ( broken by flying debris in the storm,)
  16. WD

    Engine hatch switch

    While attempting to repair another switch contact I have apparently pulled a connector loose from the engine hatch switch on the dash. I have a 2005 256ssi. There is not enough wire to allow me to pull the dash panel forward enough to get my hand to the back of the switches let alone the ability to pull it out far enough to inspect. Is all of that nest of wiring connected to a harness somewhere under there that would allow me to disconnect it and pull the dash panel completely out? Suggestions?
  17. I get a "Maintenance Required" notification when I first start up my 2014 Chaparral 27 Signature (380 volvo V8). Does anyone know what this means and how to clear it?
  18. Onefastaudi

    air conditionning

    Well, here is another oddity, it seems that my A/C is blowing some kind of carbon deposit. But mainly out of the main vent in the cabin. it looks and feels like soot, my A/C is set in dehumidifier, I have installed 2 new filters, and the problem is persisting. Any ideas on what would be creating this? Thank you y'all's
  19. BoatingSam

    New to me 1996 Chaparral 1830 SST

    Hi! I am new to the forum because I just bought a Chaparral! I have heard pretty good things about them in comparison to some other brands. It came with all the covers and biminis as well. I think I got a pretty good deal. I was wondering if anyone has experience with this boat or has opinions. Also, what am I looking at for top speed if it has a 4.3 Merc LX? Thanks Ahead of time! If you have a 1930 you can pipe in too bc it is practically the same boat I think. I'll attach some pics. It does need a good cleaning, but the floor is sound. I checked all areas before purchasing. I hope it will clean up nice and shiny and look like new!
  20. stevekonther

    Boat

    1989 30ft 454 magnums
  21. If you have any older Chaparral boat pics to share? We would love to post them on the ... http://chaparralboatxchange.proboards.com/ I'm not spamming, and hope that y'all don't think that. I just think it would be good to have some pics of older Chaparrals to post on the other forum, with your permission of course:). you can email them to me and I or We can post them OR you can become a member and post them yourself. Either way I would be fine:) Thank you!
  22. brooksk

    fuel gauge range and testing

    Hello folks, Before I finished winterizing my boat for the winter I decided to check the fuel sender as I've always had issues with my gas gauge reading 3/4 full. Actually, I could get more than 3/4 full when I manually fill (i.e. 5 - gallon cans) it but never less than 3/4 full when I know I should have had 1/2 tank or less. Fortunately, my tank on my 2004 Chaparral 215 SSI is somewhat translucent and I have been able to guess the amount of fuel in the tank by direct view when I lift up the engine hatch lid. When I removed the sender I did not see any signs of a stuck float arm. After a bit of manipulating with the sender I was able to get it out of the tank where I could inspect it. No issues were obvious. I cleaned the connections at the sender and reattached the wires as I found them and then turned on the motor switch to ON with battery ON. Since I was holding the sending and letting the float hand down my gauge read Empty. When I lifted the float arm to its highest position I could only get 7/8 full tank. The gauge responded normally when I I raised or lowered the float, but I could not get the gauge to read higher than 7/8 full. Is this the highest readout one can expect from a fuel gauge? Would my gauge reading be higher if my battery were fully charged? I noticed that replacement fuel gauge's similar to the one I have (Moeller) indicate a range of 33 - 240 ohm. Are the fuel gauges matched to this range or can they be different? How can I get a more accurate reading? My fear is not of running out of gas, it's over-filling the tank when I get gas at the marina or gas station. I have heard of Reed style gauges being more accurate. Does anyone know what the upper and lower end readings are for the fuel gauges? I could disconnect the wires and substitute a resistor to mimic the sender and see what the gauge reads. How can I be sure that if I replaced by sender with a more accurate Reed style sender that I wouldn't still have the same stuck 3/4 full reading when my tank is full? Thanks in advance. Kevin
  23. brooksk

    fuel gauge range and testing

    Hello folks, Before I finished winterizing my boat for the winter I decided to check the fuel sender as I've always had issues with my gas gauge reading 3/4 full. Actually, I could get more than 3/4 full when I manually fill (i.e. 5 - gallon cans) it but never less than 3/4 full when I know I should have had 1/2 tank or less. Fortunately, my tank on my 2004 Chaparral 215 SSI is somewhat translucent and I have been able to guess the amount of fuel in the tank by direct view when I lift up the engine hatch lid. When I removed the sender I did not see any signs of a stuck float arm. After a bit of manipulating with the sender I was able to get it out of the tank where I could inspect it. No issues were obvious. I cleaned the connections at the sender and reattached the wires as I found them and then turned on the motor switch to ON with battery ON. Since I was holding the sending and letting the float hand down my gauge read Empty. When I lifted the float arm to its highest position I could only get 7/8 full tank. The gauge responded normally when I I raised or lowered the float, but I could not get the gauge to read higher than 7/8 full. Is this the highest readout one can expect from a fuel gauge? Would my gauge reading be higher if my battery were fully charged? I noticed that replacement fuel gauge's similar to the one I have (Moeller) indicate a range of 33 - 240 ohm. Are the fuel gauges matched to this range or can they be different? How can I get a more accurate reading? My fear is not of running out of gas, it's over-filling the tank when I get gas at the marina or gas station. I have heard of Reed style gauges being more accurate. Does anyone know what the upper and lower end readings are for the fuel gauges? I could disconnect the wires and substitute a resistor to mimic the sender and see what the gauge reads. How can I be sure that if I replaced by sender with a more accurate Reed style sender that I wouldn't still have the same stuck 3/4 full reading when my tank is full? Thanks in advance. Kevin
  24. brooksk

    fuel gauge range and testing

    Hello folks, Before I finished winterizing my boat for the winter I decided to check the fuel sender as I've always had issues with my gas gauge reading 3/4 full. Actually, I could get more than 3/4 full when I manually fill (i.e. 5-gallon cans) it but never less than 3/4 full when I know I should have had ~ 1/2 tank or less. Fortunately, my tank on my 2004 Chaparral 215 SSI is somewhat translucent and I have been able to guess the amount of fuel in the tank by direct view when I lift up the engine hatch lid. When I removed the sender I did not see any signs of a stuck float arm. After a bit of manipulating with the sender I was able to get it out of the tank where I could inspect it. No issues were obvious. I cleaned the connections at the sender and reattached the wires as I found them and then turned on the motor switch to ON with battery ON. Since I was holding the sending and letting the float hand down my gauge read Empty. When I lifted the float arm to its highest position I could only get ~7/8 full tank. The gauge responded normally when I I raised or lowered the float, but I could not get the gauge to read higher than ~ 7/8 full. Is this the highest readout one can expect from a fuel gauge? Would my gauge reading be higher if my battery were fully charged? I noticed that replacement fuel gauge's similar to the one I have (Moeller) indicate a range of 33-240 ohm. Are the fuel gauges matched to this range or can they be different? How can I get a more accurate reading? My fear is not of running out of gas, it's over-filling the tank when / if I get gas at the marina or gas station. I have heard of Reed style gauges being more accurate. Does anyone know what the upper / lower end readings are for the fuel gauges? I could disconnect the wires and substitute a resistor to mimic the sender and see what the gauge reads. How can I be sure that if I replaced by sender with a more accurate Reed style sender that I wouldn't still have the same stuck 3/4 full reading when my tank is full? Thanks in advance. Kevin Lake Champlain, VT
  25. 2001ChaparralSSi216

    2001 Chaparral Ssi 216

    From the album: 2001 Chaparral SSi 216

    2001 Chaparral Ssi 216 with Volvo Penta 5.0 Gi.
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