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Found 5 results

  1. Sorry if this topic has been addressed here before, I actually did try to search!! OK, I need some advice from you electrical experts out here. I have a 2005 SSI 210 with the VP 5.0 GXI-E. A few years ago we added a wakeboard tower which also means tower speakers, stereo upgrade etc, etc. To give an idea of my power usage, the 4 cockpit speakers and 2 tower speakers are being driven by a Rockford Fosgate 800W amp and the 12" sub is in front of a 400W RF amp. With this upgrade also came a dual Optima battery set up with a battery switch (1,2,or 1&2). It is wired so I can use both batteries while running, and then switch to batt 2 when beached, isolating batt 1 so I can make it home. Now here is where my knowledge gets a little foggy. I am concerned the stock alternator is not enough to charge both batteries. I was told by the battery dealer that to properly charge, the alternator needs to be rated between 40-50% of the batteries rated power for AGM batteries. The amp hour rating is 55 per battery, giving me a rating of 110 amp hours. My owners manual says my stock alternator is 75 amp. The numbers add up that I should be where I need to be. I am looking for some opinions before I drop some BIG $$$ on a higher rated marine alternator, and possibly replacing wires with a heavier ones.
  2. I have a 1999 Signature 25 Cruiser that i bought used a couple of years ago. I've gotten several pieces of conflicting advice on the proper Electrical Panel and Battery Selector switch positions when using the internal battery charger to charge the battery when I have it out of the water for the winter and in its nice, warm, weather-protected garage. My "boat guy" says: Shore Power plugged in to 110 Volt AC Battery Selector Switch to "Both" AC Main to "On" AC Battery Charger to "On" DC Main to "On" That just seems like it's a lot of stuff "On", and I was wondering if my batteries will charge from Shore Power if the only thing I do is AC Main "On" and Battery Charger "On" ... with everything else (Battery Selector and DC Power) in the "Off" position? Anybody out there have an authoritative answer for me? Rusty in Bend (OR)
  3. 2001 Sig 300 The setup: I have 3 large 12v gel tops plus 2 sets of 2x 6v deep cycle house batteries. No generator, but I do have the Freedom inverter, 3500 I believe. From what I can tell, the port/starboard battery switches do in fact control their respective 12v, one for each motor, but the port switch must also control the third 12v which must power the stereo and a bunch of other accessories as they don't function with port switch turned off. My simple mind would think that if I have the shore power plugged in and the battery charger switch on the switch panel flipped on that it would charge both the 6v and 12v batteries so that everything was kept hot and ready. What happened last weekend, my first weekend on the water, proved me wrong. I had hot house batteries but near dead 12v starter batteries, I'm assuming due to running the stereo non stop while at the dock. They were dead and clicking when I tried to crank, and after I ran the blower for a while I turned it off and they cranked without the blower on - so they were very close to needing a jump but I got them going and went for a very long ride to charge everything back up. What am I doing wrong? Is there really no way to charge the 12v batteries while attached to shore power? Do I have something messed up in my configuration? Is this a simple thing that I'm overlooking because I'm wet behind the ears with this new-to-me Chap? For what it's worth, the 6v batteries are all brand new, and the 12v were all removed and tested to be in good working condition before my first trip out. Heading back out tomorrow for the weekend and would love some input. Seems ridiculous that I'd need to hook up an external battery charger when I have all these smarter components already connected to big shore power. Thanks guys!
  4. I replaced the house battery in my 08 Sig 290. I have the three battery set up (port engine, starboard engine, house) with the four switches (one for each battery and one emergency switch to hook them all together). I have changed out all three batteries before and never had an issue. The engine batteries are AGM and the house battery is lead-acid, just as they were when I bought the boat. The boat is in a slip with shore power and has a battery charger that has worked like a charm since new. My end of run process is pretty detailed and I always have the batteries on the charger when not using the boat. The new house battery was charged and tested before I installed it. That was two months ago. The boat ran great and then in September I had a lot of travel and other competing demands that kept me off the boat for a couple of weeks. Got back on it last weekend and as soon as I turn on the house battery the low charge alarm starts to go off (one short beep every 10-15 seconds). No power from the house battery. The engine batteries crank like always and I took the boat out with all three batteries in the "on" position. Did not have to link the batteries using the emergency switch. Before leaving the slip, I checked the battery connections -- all tight, and the charger appeared to be working. Put the boat up like always -- battery switches off, AC shore power feeding the panel and the battery charger (and the two refrigerators). Today went back to check and the house battery is again very weak -- barely powered the interior lights -- and the alarm began to sound again. Does anybody have any ideas? Thanks
  5. Need a little input here. I just installed a new Pioneer DVD/App Radio Headunit down in the galley. I put the amps located in the closed in the aft cabin. Still trying to figure out what to do with the subs. I definitely want them in the cockpit. I have 2 JL Audio 10W7's so needless to say I want to be heard on the water, however I'm trying not to install/attach them directly to the boat like I did in my last boat. I had some of those free air Fosgate 12's that I put behind the seats mounted directly to the fiberglass, on my 275 Crownline. They slammed but so did the rest of the boat, rattling all kinds of stuff apart, no bueno. So still want the big bass without big problems. Secondly, I ran the power cable from positive terminal to another battery located in the closet with the speakers for the purpose of stil being able to be charged, kind of trying to trick the charger into thinking It's one battery. The charger is more than capable, its a nice Charles E. Lead 60 AMP 3 bank charger. Let me know if there are any implications as to why or how this wont work. Thanks for your time.
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