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Found 25 results

  1. Hi Just bought a 2004 190ssi. Love it so far, just curious what standard operating oil pressure should be. At idle it seems to sit around 40-50 psi but running at 3 quarter throttle or so it seems to sit about 60-65psi which I thought seemed a little high, any thoughts as to what I can typically expect here? Thanks IT
  2. Hi, I have a newly bought '97 Chaparral 2335 Sport with a Volvo Penta 5.7 GSI that suddenly stalled on low speed. When I tried to start it again, it ran "roughly" for 4-5 seconds after a couple tries. After a few more starting attempts, I heard a loud metal on metal sound, and grinding noise - but the engine is turning, but not starting. I removed the starter and saw at least one tooth had broken off the ring wheel. The starter was replaced by the previous owner a couple seasons back. (The previous owner had used the boat for ten seasons without problems) I've sent it to the shop now, but have a couple questions: 1. What could be the reasons for the engine stalling? 2. For a experienced mechanic, how many hours should I expect the shop are using for removing the engine from the boat, and for replacing the ring? Video of couple of the starting attempts: (The "ding" in the video is quite load, not really reflected in the video. One can see the engine is shaking)
  3. Hi everyone - I've been quiet for too long! My 4 year old Sig 270 has started misbehaving. For the first 10-15 min of the trip the engine lacks power and gets up to a max speed of about 20 Knots and then she suddenly wakes up and goes like a rocket reaching her usual max of over 27 Knots. Also fuel consumption probably running high - gage useless won't know for sure until next fill up. Before setting out I got in the water and scraped a modest amount of barnacles from the props and flaps. The hull feels smoothe. We are in the middle of summer here so the engine is not cold! Any comments will be gratefully received. Simon
  4. Hi guys, just bought a 2000 196 SSI. I'm trying to figure out what exactly the engine and outdrive are? i have a 5.0 with a carb. 220hp? I'm just trying to figure out what the outdrive is? Is it an alpha gen 2? I want to buy the service manual so I can keep up with the regular maintenance of the engine and outdrive. Thanks Trep
  5. Hi guys, just bought a 2000 196 SSI. I'm trying to figure out what exactly the engine and outdrive are? i have a 5.0 with a carb. 220hp? I'm just trying to figure out what the outdrive is? Is it an alpha gen 2? I want to buy the service manual so I can keep up with the regular maintenance of the engine and outdrive. Thanks Trep
  6. While attempting to repair another switch contact I have apparently pulled a connector loose from the engine hatch switch on the dash. I have a 2005 256ssi. There is not enough wire to allow me to pull the dash panel forward enough to get my hand to the back of the switches let alone the ability to pull it out far enough to inspect. Is all of that nest of wiring connected to a harness somewhere under there that would allow me to disconnect it and pull the dash panel completely out? Suggestions?
  7. What is the difference between these engine choices for H2O? Volvo V-6 Gen V 1.66 SX 240 HP Volvo V-6 Gen V 1.97 SX 240 HP Catalyst Does absence of "Catalyst" in the first choice mean no cat converter? I thought all engines now require cat - am I wrong? If the above two engines are the same, why is the gear ration different? And what does it mean? Thank you
  8. What is the difference between these engine choices for H2O? Volvo V-6 Gen V 1.66 SX 240 HP Volvo V-6 Gen V 1.97 SX 240 HP Catalyst Does absence of "Catalyst" in the first choice mean no cat converter? I thought all engines now require cat - am I wrong? If the above two engines are the same, why is the gear ration different? And what does it mean? Thank you
  9. I'm researching what to get between H2O 21 or 216 SSi and cant seem to find comparison of pros and cons for Mercury vs Volvo. From what I read it's mainly service availability for each. So, without stirring Merc vs. Volvo debate, can someone point out the main technical differences between the two? On H2O side the choice is pretty easy between Mercury 4.5L MPI 1.62 Alpha 250 HP Volvo V-6 Gen V 1.66 SX 240 HP Volvo V-6 Gen V 1.97 SX 240 HP Catalyst. I like that the new Volvos have closed freshwater cooling system but not sure if 1.66 to 1.97 ratio would warrant going to Catalyst option. So, why would you chose one over another? On 216 SSi choses a bit more complicated: Mercury 6.2L 2.20 Bravo 3 300 HP Mercury 350 MAG 1.47 Alpha 300 HP Volvo V-6 Gen V 1.60 SX 280 HP Volvo V-6 Gen V 1.66 SX 300 HP Catalyst Volvo V-8 Gen V 1.95 DP 300 HP Catalyst Would you go with alpha or bravo? I think bravo is a bit too much for 216 SSi which mainly will be use for cruising and watersports. Is Merc 350 MAG older that 6.2L? Should I still consider Bravo 3 even if I keep the boat in water year-round? Your input is appreciated. P.S. For additional info, I'll keep the boat at my dock, always in the water (Miami).
  10. My name is Daisy, I am hoping you can help me. We own an Epic V23 boat that has a mercruiser 8.1 motor. Apparently no one can help me .. Ive called multiple people in multiple locations. I found this forum doing research. When I hook up the computer the error codes I get are the following Fuel LVL2 CKT H 5VDC pwr 2 L We have been trying to get this boat to work for 3 months!!!!!!!!!! and Ive had it, i need to figure it out. Can you pleaseeee help me??! The boat starts fine, when we take it out as soon as we go over 3300 RPMs the alarm stays on until we go back to neutral. The message on the screen says "Sensor power supply voltage is low" when I select more I get . STBD system failure 217. Is it possible for you to guide me ? Thanks in advance
  11. I have a strange problem with my 2003 ssi (5.7l EFI inboard). I will be running normally when out of nowhere the engine will "bump" like it cut out for a second and I get a single tone audible alarm. The engine never shuts all the way down at speed although it has cut all the way out at idle occasionally. It almost feels like an electrical short or ground issue. I have replaced the ignition module, checked the main cannon connector and recently installed a new water pump impeller. Could the alternator cause an issue like this? Recently a mechanic at our local marina checked the engine with his computer and all levels seemed normal. He even seems a bit stumped This is a frustrating intermittent problem. Bob M
  12. goes fine for about 20 min then stalls, will start and idle but keeps stalling while in drive after a few minutes, depth alarm beeps
  13. Looking for help please, 1998 5.7L TBI Mercruiser with Bravo 3 drive on a Sig 260. Problem: With the engine running at idle, always when cold, intermittent when hot. When shifting into drive, engine runs at idle rpm, when throttle is pushed down to come off idle, engine coughs & dies. If I anticipate this, I can “pump” the throttle a bit and get it over the hump to 1000 RPM. When engine reaches about 1100 RPM, problem disappears. I have found that when in neutral, if I use something on the boat that requires a large electrical load such as adjusting the drive trim, the engine RPM drops about 100 RPM. Then if I shift into drive and try to come off idle, the engine will cough & start to die. If instead I push in the neutral button at the base of the throttle, and increase the RPM to about 1100 and then return to idle, the problem disappears. I will then be able to shift into drive and slowly increase RPM without a problem. This problem is reduced by a tune up at the beginning of the season, but by the end of the season, the problem has returned in frequently. This has been happening over the last 3 years I have owned the boat. When the spark plugs come out after a season, they are usually black carbon coated. The transom collects black dirt which appears to be engine exhaust (presumed unburned fuel) over the season. The engine does not burn a drop of oil over the season. Repairs tried: Replace plugs, wires, cap, rotor, oil, oil filter, fuel filter, drive oil every season. New batteries, alternator tested out good. Replaced AIC valve, MAP sensor, timing checked & set, dosed a tank of fuel with fuel injector cleaner. This year, disassembled throttle body & replaced fuel injectors, cleaned throttle body, disassembled all ground wires from battery to ground post on engine to ground bus bar and all wires on the bus bar, grounding on trim pump, wire wheeled & reassembled all with dielectric grease. Ran a compression test, all cylinders between 180 & 185 psi (dry test, did not do wet test since dry test was so good). This problem still persists. I have had a Mercruiser certified mechanic look at it and scan for codes. The only code he came up with was MAP sensor, which was replaced. He is stumped also. His next suggestion is to send the ECM out for trouble shooting, repair, or replacement. I suspect an electrical gremlin. I thought I would be rid of it when I cleaned the grounds. My next guess would be the engine temperature sensor, or the throttle position sensor. Does anyone else have any suggestions? Thanks.
  14. My current routine is to go the gas station down the street and fill two 6 gallons canisters with high-dollar E-free fuel. When someone asked me why I did this, I responded that it had something to do with corroding the fuel tank if it had ethanol. After the words fell from my mouth I started questioning the veracity of that statement. So two things: 1) Can anyone definitively say just exactly WHY I have to use ethanol free fuel in my 2006 SSI 260? (Mercruiser) 2) Is there a scenario whereby I could use regular gas in my tank? If it's a corrosion thing, is there a method/kit to switch out the tank? What is this madness!? Thanks.
  15. Brand new to boating and looking at the 264 Sunesta w/8.2L MAG ECT. Love everything about it (i.e. aesthetics and options). However, spoke to a Merc certified mechanic and he said he's seen issues with the new 8.2L Merc engines (don't remember the specific issue he alluded to - hence the "newbie" moniker for myself). Dealer said that issues have been non-existent. I'm sure the truth is somewhere in between. Just looking for some feedback from anyone who's had some experience with this engine. I don't mean the performance as I'm sure that's absolutely more than I'll need. Primarily concerned with reliability.
  16. Guys, new to this sight, and a new chaparral owner. I was out this morning on Texoma cruising at about 25mph and heard an alarm. One solid beep, and then it stopped. I looked at the gauges and didnt see anything out of order. Then a short time later a second beep, then the port engine died, and i notice the temp was up (190-200). I didnt notice any loss of power prior to the engine stalling. I limped back to the marina on the remaining engine and when I returned, 2hrs later, I tried to start the motor. It would not start. Boat was serviced less than 25 hours ago (oil, impellars, ect). Manifolds replaced by last owner. Also, my generator quit working as well. It would start, then after a few minutes sputter and quit. Water was sporatically spraying out of the port side when the generator was on. This happened at the same time and I dont know if it is related. Prior to today, everything ran perfectly. Does the engine have a self protection program that shuts it down? Any thoughts? Thanks! 2005 330 Signature Twin 350 Mag Brovo 3 Spanning Time Texoma
  17. Hey all, New to the forum. Just purchased a 2014 257 SSX (great boat !) and had a question. Can the engine hatch be opened manually ? I've checked the manual and this forum without any success. Is this normal for Chaparral's ? The dealer stated that it cannot be opened manually and the manual simply describes how to open it via the toggle switch or a jumper box. My desire to open it manually would simply be for maintenance without supplying power (for whatever reason) and/or some kind of electrical failure or emergency (non-fire related). The motors are directly mounted to (and a part of) the struts, so there isnt a way to disconnect them that I could see. I have a marine grade 300amp jumper box on hand 'if' both batteries were to fail, so opening it as per procedure isnt an issue. Thanks in advance and attached is a pic of the new boat.
  18. I have had an issue with my 2001 Chaparral 183 SSE for the past couple of years. Most recently, the problem is that I am out on the lake and the boat is running fine and when we go to start it, it won't turn over. My repair guy told me it was the starter and has changed it 4 times in 2 years. We launched it on Saturday and it started fine but when we accelerated it shook violently and would not get up to full speed. I called him and he came over. Said that a couple of the wires were crossed. I know, he should know better. We dropped him off and it sounded better and got up to full power. We took off again, I shut it off and tried to restart it and it would not start. Cranked a couple of times and then nothing. Made a clunking sound. Finally after 3 tries got it to start and hauled it out and brought it back to him. Again, he changed the starter and said it was fine. We picked it up Sunday morning and it started fine but when we turned it off, it did the same thing, cranked twice and then a clunk. Got it to finally start and we stayed on the lake. My daughter mentioned that each time that we were trying to start it when it didn't start, the radio was on. When we powered the radio off, it started every time. Is this just a coincidence? Also, the vibration and shaking is back. Please help as we are going on a two week vacation on Sunday. Thanks, Kerry
  19. Well, Miss Pura Vida is dry docked for a while following a strange incident 1/2 mile from the marina -- inbound, luckily. Was just finishing up a 20 mile round-tripper dinner outing to a downstream marina. Never got the tach above 3600 and had good instrument reads for the 3-4 hours we were on the water. I was on the threshold of my 20 hr break-in service at launch, hour meter had just clocked 21.9 and we were within sight of the boat launch when my wife said she heard a muffled "whumpf" in the engine compartment. It was dusk, so I came off plane and dropped to idle speed to full stop and opened the engine hatch. Quickly shined a light in and didn't see or hear anything strange so lowered the hatch and prepared to make way to the launch. At throttle up the engine service alarm went off ( that dude is loud as #$^%, let me tell you) so I quickly went to neutral and checked gauges, etc. noticed the oil gauge was jumping from 40 psi down to 15, back to 40. I eased the throttle to about 2000 and saw a familiar read of just over 50 or so so throttled on up to plane out and alarmed again. Dropped back to idle and saw the gauge jumping again. Looked back in the hatch, nothing smoking, no odors, nothing obvious in the bilge. Idled her to the dock so the Admiral could bring the trailer. Sat in the lagoon for 10 min at idle with no issues except obviously low oil pressure so I'm thinking, "well probably a quart low but due to the dealer next day for the 20 hr service interval so no biggie," I'd gone 3/4 low on my 4.3 MPI a few years ago and got the alarm, so didn't seem that odd to me. Recovered to trailer, put on straps, removed plug, nothing out of the ordinary so off we go home. Next morning I open the ski locker to take out a board and a tube before heading to the shop and whoa Nelly, I've got motor oil in the ski locker bilge under the mat. Crank up the engine hatch and got oil there, too. Check the drain plug and I've got residue in the threads and drippage on the rear roller under the bunks. Go back topside and check the dipstick - dry as a bone. Oil level was acceptable previous day prior to the launch and had good oil pressure reads until the " whumpf". Service manager scratched his head on this one and wondered aloud if I'd lost the engine filter from vibration an said they'd check it out. Today he called and said they'd been on the phone with Mercury Marine who said to fill it back up and run it to trace the leak. The theory at this moment is blown out rear main engine seal and they'll pull the power package tomorrow to look for it. Not too wild about this, to be honest. I have a 2001 Chevy Suburban with a 5.3L with 210,000 miles on it that started leaking at the rear main seal at 180,000. I'm having a hard time with a 350 MAG blowing a main seal and losing all engine oil at 21.7 hrs. And even if that's the issue, how to have confidence in it after repair? Love the boat. Very satisfied with Chaparral performance for 21.6 hours and 7 outings (so far). Been a satisfied Merc customer for 6 years with a 4.3 MPI / Alpha 1. Not sure what to make of this. Ideas?
  20. 2007 Chaparral 210 SSi with Mercury Mercuiser 5.0 MPI engine (260 hp) – 160 hours The problem I’m experiencing happens after we’ve been doing water sports by pulling a person on a tube or wakeboard. Once somebody is finished with their water sport, I stop the boat engine to let the person back on board the boat. Most times the boat starts and runs fine. But then sometimes the boat will start and the engine will quit after a second or two. On subsequent attempts, the same thing happens: the boat starts but then only runs for a second before the engine quits. We’ve been towed back three times last year due to this problem. The next day, the engine starts and runs fine. I took my boat to the Chaparral dealer for repair twice. They did the following maintenance: · Change pickup in gas tank. · Clean out anti-sip valve. · Scan engine for fail codes. · Installed new impeller kit. · Replace water pump housing. · Check fuel and replace fuel filter. Notes: This is an intermittent problem which is very difficult to reproduce. It seems to only occur after stressing the engine from pulling people. After the engine has cooled for a long enough time, the engine will run. If you have any ideas on what this problem might be, please let me know. Thank you.
  21. I own a '95 Chaparral 1930 SS Sport. Boat was winterized at the end of last season, now the first time I put it in the water it will not turn over. Took the battery to an auto parts store and it tested good. When I try and start, it makes one click and will not turn over the engine. Is there any way to test the starter or see if the engine is seized up? Thank you in advance for any suggestions or advice.
  22. Just ordered a 2013 264 Sunesta and we are very excited for it to arrive. However, after spending some time on the forum, I'm second guessing my engine choice. I ordered VP 320, based on our salespersons recommendation. He stated that we would be very happy with the 320 hp engine. I also added trim tabs to assist in plaining. My concern is that we will always run the boat at about 4500' elevation, usually with a boat load of teens wanting to raft, ski, kneeboard, and wakeboard. The salesperson spoke to the Chaparral rep and confirmed that this setup would be just fine and not really worth the $ upgrade to the 380 hp. Here's my experience with our past boat. A 2004 Four Winns Horizon 230 with VP Gxi 5.7 320 hp single prop. Lots of prop issues, never really solved, but ended up with an adequate prop that had good hole shot, but only a top speed of about 35 mph. I know that having the dual props and trim tabs on the new 264 will help all the way around, but the 230 weighs about a 1000 pounds less that the 264. With this being a $ boat, am I making the right choice with the 320 hp vs. 380 hp? Thanks for your thoughts!
  23. Looking at buying a 310 Signature - what are the advantages / disadvantages in regards to the Twin Mercury 5.0L or 5.7L. If you own one let me know what you think? Thanks
  24. Help! 2006 signature with 5.0 mercruiser bravo III with 500 hours. Overheats above 3000 rpm, I have new risers and manifolds, new impeller. I swapped thermostat housings left to right which included thermostat, temperature sensor and temp switch. Externally inspected transom hose and it looks ok. Please, any ideas??? Thanks Jonathan
  25. Toward the end of last year, October/November'ish, I started to notice that when I started my boat it would stall a few times until I started it and immediately gave it some gas and idled at about 2000 RPM for a few minutes. Once a little warm it would idle fine. I tuned the engine late in the summer. Could it be that the boat was sitting out in the cold? Temps in South Jersey can fall to the 30's and 40's in November. Maybe a bad tank of gas? Prior to the fall the boat would start up as soon as I turned the key and idle perfectly. Any thoughts appreciated.