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Found 11 results


    Head seacock

    Hi, new to boating here. I see the manual of my chaparral 260 shows a diagram of systems but it is not very explicit. It says head seacock. right by the fwd bilge pump has a hose with a seacock. just wondering what this thing does. cannot follow where the hose is heading to. it is just attached to the bottom of the hull. picture coming soon
  2. I have a 2001 230 SSI. It has the head with piano hinges. The piano hinges are pulling away from the fiberglass and making the holes bigger and ruining the fiberglass. It also causes the door to fall each time you pull it open and you have to pick it up in order to get it back into place where the door will close and be put into its seal. I have tried toggle bolts, putting epoxy in the holes and nothing has worked. Do anyone have a potential solution? Thanks for the help! 2001 Chaparral SSI 230
  3. I just bought a used 2001 Chaparral Signature 300. The Vacuflush/Sealand system pump is not turning on in the head to be able to flush the toilet. The switch in the actual head does not light up when you turn on the "vacuflush" switch. I read the owners manual and believe that its most likely a fuse or circuit breaker for the power to this system. I have looked all over the boat in the engine compartments and on the pump and have no idea where this would be and I have even read in the owner's manual for the Sealand/Vacuflush system that there is a fuse/circuit breaker. I also did just recently swap 3 new batteries in for the old batteries, so I probably tripped something, because I had also tripped the breaker on the generator for the air conditioning. Can anyone confirm this and if this is most likely the case where these the breaker or fuse for this would be? Thank you!
  4. Hi Question from a cold Sweden:) How do I get access to change the hoses from the bilge and shower box in my Chaparral 250 2008? One hose is from the forward bilge pump, the second is from the shower to the Atwood shower box. I need to get access to the thruhulls...
  5. We are debating whether to go with the standard 3.5 gallon head or upgrade to the 15 gallon vacuflush head for our Sunesta 244. We think the need to not have to go to the dock for passengers to relieve themselves is "priceless" so we think a head is worth having. Questions are 1) what are the advantages of the upgrade vacuflush head versus the standard head? 2) Is it worth the money? 3) What impact does it have on the vessel's fresh water supply (as we understand the upgrade vacuflush head requires use of some the fresh water supply)?
  6. Hello, This boat is new to us and I am having a hard time understanding how the head (portapotty) works. There are 2 pipes, a red 3/4inch and a white flexible about 2inch that connects to the head. I assume one is the vent pipe and the other one the waste. I filled in the water and chemical in the clean tank but I do not know how the waste sytem is supposed to work. I don't see a pump or a switch or a grinder for the solids. Any help on it would be very appreciated,
  7. Please help me understand how the head (portapotty) works, 2 pipes, I guess one for vent one for solids but don't know how the waste works. Don't see a swich or a pump. (see picture of plumbing setup) Thank you
  8. Does anybody know where the blower for the head vent is actually located? I'm guessing it's similar to the 260 and the 270, so I'll take advice from folks who own those models too. There's another thread about this, but it's for the 290 which I don't believe is relevant to the 250 due to the location of the head (http://forum.chaparralboats.com/index.php?showtopic=12701) That other thread did have some solid information such as the fact that the blower may be just fine and it may be a ground connection or another wiring issue beneath the helm. I'll check those out as well, but I'd sure like to know where the blower is to begin my troubleshooting. Many thanks in advance!
  9. Hi everyone - Happy Chanukah, Thanksgiving etc. to you all. Can anyone tell me exactly which version of the Vacuflush system is installed on my 2012 Signature 270. It looks nothing like any of the pictures and diagrams in the manual which i got with the boat. i read that one should change the filter on the vent line which should last 'one season' and we have been using it for a year without any problems or nasty smells. Being an obedient chap I thought I would change the filter but I can't find it and I can't even find a vent line connected to the tank! Simon
  10. Sorry for the duplicate posts, not starting off on the right foot here. Hello all, Sorry for the lengthy post. Most is background on our new boat although I do have a head question. Thanks very much for reading and letting me in the club. I have lurked a bit and found some very valuable information here. In December we purchased a 2005 256 ssi with the Volvo 8.1L GXi, captains call exhaust and arch (270hrs) and have naturally been itching to get on the water. We got lucky here in VA and had some good weather to do a sea trial with a surveyor, Capt. Emory Shover based here in northern VA. Highly recommend him. Also had a certified Volvo mech take a look at the engine and drive. Everything major checked out and the survey was money well spent as there was a bad aux breaker and fresh water pump which the PO paid for out of pocket. I am in the process of having my canvas guy look at a few tears in the factory cockpit cover to see if he wants to repair or if I need to just bite the bullet and replace entirely. Thanks to you guys, I checked all of my cup holder drain and other drain hoses (front cooler) and found a number of them were disconnected so will get to those before we splash for the season. the boat will be slipped in fresh water in the Potomac from April 1 thru mid October and after much research we are going to have the bottom barrier coated and painted with a multi-year "hard ablative" like Pettit vivid. Stereo-The boat has an upgraded sound system (but stock HU and remotes which both work). I know the PO installed a JBL amp and MB quart speakers but have not had a chance to fully inventory what all is there, if he wired it correctly and what I will replace, if not this year than next. VHF- The boat does not have a VHF installed. I plan to flush mount under the steering wheel as I think I have seen one other member's install on this forum. Is there enough depth there? I have not had a chance to pull the breaker panel to check. I'm not on the radio that much so not sure if I'll go for a mic with a display as I know it will be difficult to see the main in this install location. Will likely go for a mic with a speaker or mount an external-when the CG up here in D.C. needs to raise you, its a lot better to answer on the radio to avoid the hassle of a stop. As far as the antenna goes, I plan to mount a 4' Shakespeare Centennial antenna 3/4 of the way up the side of the starboard arch. Carpet- Factory grey carpet is in OK shape but I am not in love with the color. I had snapincarpet dot com send me samples and I think we will have them make us a new carpet using the desert sand berber they offer. Open to ideas here if anyone recommends a different outfit or carpet choice. Head- Here comes my main question. I currently have the raw water manual flush Jabsco head and while this is OK I often have female guests on board and I can already see it being a pain to use the manual pump in the rare occasion that the head is even used. #1 only will be the rule, no excuse for anything else-we are always close enough to a marina or other facilities should the need arise. Additionally, as the boat is slipped I would not be 100% comfortable leaving the seacock open and quite frankly it is a bit of a pain to reach down to the bottom of the bilge to open and close, not to mention the horrors I've read about regarding the smell that raw water systems have on the intake side (even with strainers and chlorine tablets). That being said I am seriously considering replacing the head with a unit called the Raritan Sea Era. I would go for the fresh water version and correctly install the appropriate vacuum breaker, solenoid and loop to prevent any fresh water contamination. Note, this head IS designed for fresh water use, so all the info about not converting a raw water to fresh water head is not a concern, as I understand it. I have spoken ad nauseum to many folks about this but am open to hearing any thoughts from those of you that have experience in this area. I am wondering if anyone has tried anything similar? I know Jebsco makes an electronic raw water unit as does Raritan but would love the fresh water pressurized version that I have listed. Quieter, cleaner, easier, and a little less water which is a big deal with the meek 4gal holding tank on this boat. Should I give this a try or is it not worh the effort for the little use the head will see? Chartplotter- The PO made a fiberglass mount to cover the compass mounting location and installed a Garmin 178C which will be fine for now. I have an aux compass and appropriate charts. Oil- What are you guys using in the big block Volvos? Not sure what the PO actually used. I want to go Mobil 1 but know from cars that switching to a full, high viscosity syn later in the game can cause leaks. Thoughts? Bilge- I will likely be adding a manually switched diaphragm pump with the pickup in the low point of the bilge to get any remaining water out. Being slipped I don't have the luxury of pulling the drain plug to get the last inch or so and I hate not having a dry bilge. Lighting- Taking the lead of many here and replacing with LEDs as well as adding surface mount LED rounds to the arch. Trim Tabs- Going to boat this season without them and see how she handles. Likely on the list (no pun intended) for next year. Batteries- PO had installed two brand new group 27 batteries and they are sitting in my carpeted basement on a digital charger. I am going to remove the factory switch (Off, 1, 2, Both) and install the Blue Seas ACR and switch as we had it on our previous boat and it greatly simplified things, especially for my father who occasionally uses the boat. I want to permanently mount solar panels to the top of the arch and connect them to a charge controller and the batteries for maintenance but I am not sure the best way to do this. If anyone has experience with a similar set up it would be helpful to have some insight. I will do my best to document all of my projects and include write-ups here on the forum. Not diving into any until mid-march at the earliest. Thanks very much for reading and any insights. CaptScott
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