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Found 5 results

  1. Dstrain622

    Generator issue

    Generator kicks off shortly after starting at switch. Go down in engine compartment and says check engine. All is good so prime it, clear code and it runs like a champ forever. It does every single time. Any ideas? Kohler is sending a tech out next week because our mechanic can’t figure it out. 330 Signature
  2. Onefastaudi

    More deer for the generator

    Here we go again! Generator would run 5 minutes and stop. Replaced fuel filter, overheating switch, plugs, impeller, and still same issue. Today I replaced the low oil pressure switch and surprise!!! Opaque brown oil! Remind be the dipstick, and et voila! Fuel in the oil!!! So, what say you? fuel pump, carb or rings?? thank you all as usual.
  3. Onefastaudi

    bypass valve

    While cleaning the engine bay Sunday, I noticed that the check valve or anti-siphoning valve on the raw water hoses was seriously leaking. First I replaced the valve itself but it was still leaking I proceeded to replace the entire assembly but now I still have some seepage out of thru valve. is that normal? please see attached pic thank you
  4. OK, old Man Murphy has been paying me multiple boat visits lately, and I'm hoping that someone has had a similar experience that can help with my generator problem. I have a 2008 Kohler 5ECD, and it's been running great. As stated, Murphy paid a visit to the boat, so I had a bunch of maintenance activities, so I decided I'd replace the Zinc Anode on the generator and flush and refill the coolant. As you can probably tell where this is going, I didn't do my homework, and only found out about the air lock problem on these units after I noticed the reservoir bottle boiling and spilling over into the bilge. After trying various tricks mentioned by other online on bleeding the air, I finally went to the auto part store and rented a radiator pressure tester. Got it up to 16 lbs as was mentioned as a possible solution to break the air lock. I finally talked to a local generator mechanic, and he said he runs into the airlock all the time, and the way he handles it is lets the coolant heat up, flow into the overflow bottle, then let it suck it back out of the bottle as it cools. He indicated I'd probably have to do this a few times. This is where my problem starts. I started this procedure, and I now have a leak at the cap connection. I've bought another cap, same issue. This started happening right after I put the tester on, so I'm wondering if I somehow put a groove into the neck and the cap won't seal. Obviously, if there is no seal, it can't flow into the bottle and back out again. I did put a towel on the cap, and put pressed down on it, and it flowed into the bottle, but it never flowed back out, because it wasn't tight. My questions: 1. Is it possible that I put a knick in the manifold cap connection by using the tester, making it en-even so a seal can form? 2. If I did do that, can I slowly try to even out the connection to get a good seal on the cap? I've been playing around with that this afternoon evening, and I seem to be making a bit of progress, not nearly as much coolant is leaking out of the cap. I've also used pliers to bend the ears on the cap to make it tighter. 3. Do I need to worry about running the generator so many times without a load. Basically, what I do is start it up, and let it get hot enough until the coolant leaks out from the cap, Any where from 3-7 minutes depending on how cool it was when I start. The unit never shuts down with codes or anything, I'm shutting it down manually. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated, as we are coming up on the busy boating time here in Florida and with out AC, our time rafting up will be extremely limited. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
  5. I ran the genset fine for 3 hrs and without any problems. Then I switched it off. 2 hrs later, I try to restart and it ran weakly and died…and the “Out of fuel” message came on. I had 80% tank filled. Anyone had this problem and prior experience?
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