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Found 9 results

  1. One of the LED courtesy lights in the arch of my 2018 257 SSX isn't working. It came from the dealership this way (brand new). They delivered it 40 miles for me, and told me they wouldn't send a repair electrician out that far to fix it. So I can either wait until the end of the season, or I can try to fix it myself. Does anyone have any experience replacing those LEDs? Is it hard? Where would I get a replacement part? (I don't see them on the parts list) Thanks!
  2. Hey guys I’m having a heck of a time finding the part number to replace one of my LED downlights in my hardtop. It’s a 2015 330. Called dealer three times already for it. Hoping someone on here can help so I can just order.
  3. I installed 3 of the Seablaze Specture RGB lights on a 2006 Chaparral 310 (Twin Screw with 10'7" beam). One light in the middle and two at the edges of the stern. There's 2 different modes: It starts by cycling through all of the lights over the course of about 20 or 30 seconds. This gives you the opportunity to pick a solid color if you'd like. You can pick a color by toggling the same switch you used to turn them on, off and then on again very quickly. That will select that color and hold it there. Alternatively, you can let it continue to cycle. After the first round, it slows way down to cycling every 2 minutes or so. It's a really nice pace, and my favorite setting. Likes The lights have been fantastic. They're very bright, colorful and certainly gain a lot of compliments. When I first installed them, I couldn't get enough of them! I would even just turn them on to check them out. In our freshwater lake, green penetrates through the water the most and is the brightest. It probably reaches about 15 feet, maybe even 20 ft back. Dislikes I'm not the biggest fan of Lumitecs protocol/controller to have to wait to find the color you want and then toggle the switch. I wish there was a proper controller to either just select the color I want or something I could integrate into an MFD or proper LED controller. But it is what it is. Notes: I learned that it's important to mount the lights low enough, as per Lumitecs recommendations. If you mount them too high, it appears like they flicker because of the way the water is sucked under the transom. I also found that using relays was the best option. I also had some interference with the stereo when the lights were on, so I just moved them to a different battery.
  4. Hello everyone. We just ordered a 21' H20 Ski & Fish which will arrive in May. This will be our 2nd boat; the 1st was a 17' Crestliner with a 115HP Evinrude that was older than I am. So this is our first new/nice boat. We wanted something with enough room to host a few friends on the lake for swimming/tubing that would still work well for fishing. We thought the H20 S&F was the ticket. Intro aside, I'm well aware that the factory stereo leaves a lot to be desired. We chose not to pay for the upgraded option from Chaparral as we were planning on going aftermarket anyway. I'm looking for any advice/experience/recommendations you all may have concerning stereo components and LED lighting as I may add some lights as well. Items of note: Budget of $2K or less, preferably less We opted for the Yamaha F200 outboard, which has a 50 amp alternator/stator We chose NOT to get a tower, so tower speakers are not an option We are upgrading to a larger 36V trolling motor w/3 size 31 AGM batteries in addition to the starting battery Optimally would like high SQ and decent volume within the boat and nearby while swimming. We don't need someone being towed on a tube/skis to hear the music. I've looked at JL and Wet Sounds Questions: Is the stock head unit sufficient (I think the base is a Jensen) considering power will be coming from an external Amp? Can one of the trolling motor batteries be easily used for both trolling motor and stereo (not simultaneously, but via a battery selector/switch)? Personal recommendations on JL vs Wet Sounds? Stick with 6.5" replacements, or move up to 7.7"? Add another pair of speakers in the stern? Stock it only comes with 2 in the bow and 2 by driver/passenger. Can people seated in the stern hear the music given this placement? LED lighting recommendations? Speaker rings or behind tweeter, cup holder rings, or strips? RGB vs matching the factory 4 blue LED's that come with the boat? Underwater? Thanks in advance!
  5. Slapshot

    LED Project

    I'm starting a new project since I completed my bellows, shift cable, and hose replacement project. I want to upgrade or install the following: Bow Navigation Light (LED bulb upgrade) Cuddy Cabin Lights (LED bulb upgrade) Install 3 Courtesy Lights (1 at the Stern entrance/exit, 1 behind captain's chair and 1 behind passenger chair near the floor) Here is a picture of the original bulbs from the Cuddy Cabin Lights (left), and the Bow Navigation Light (right): Does anyone know the LED replacement for either of these? The one on the right has a part# 2641L, and my local part store had the following LED which looked compatible: I couldn't find anything that resembled the Cuddy Cabin Lights. At least nothing that had the 2 extended prongs. So I may just end up replacing the entire fixtures. Any recommendations? Now on to the Courtesy Lights; I would like to add courtesy lights at the stern exit/entrance where the remote radio controls reside. The radio controls no longer function because the previous owner upgraded the original stereo from the included JBL stereo which utilized this stern remote system. Here is a pic of the area that I am working with: I thought about purchasing an LED light that covered the entire area, which is about 4" long, but I've since cleaned the area up. I could fill in the existing holes with some filler and maybe buff the gelcoat. Either way does anyone have a suggestion for an LED light that could fit this area. Whatever light I end up putting here I will also put the same light behind each chair (captain and passenger), near the floor to light the pathway up on deck. My helm has a wiper switch, but my boat did not come with a windshield wiper so I thought I might use that switch to control these courtesy lights? Thank you Jake
  6. I just bought a beautiful 2004 190 SSi a few months ago and immediately noticed the stock stereo could use a little boost. It would get very loud without distorting unless you turned the bass way down. So, I started looking around this forum for sub-woofer ideas. I always thought the rear bench seat was the ultimate place for a few subs. I quickly found out that a lot of people avoided putting speakers there for numerous reasons. The most talked about one was the curvature of the fiberglass panel. I found some good free air subs, ordered all my OFC wiring and parts, and with a little blood, a lot of sweat, a few tears, and numerous trips to the hardware store, I got them in there and I'm glad I did! they turned out great and don't sound half bad either. Here's My Story Hey Mr. Postman!! I then started tearing into the rear bench to see what I was getting into. I also wanted to get that prized fiberglass panel out and get it into my shop to work on it easier. Man it was dirty in there!! Lets clean it up a bit while its easier to get to. I could already see that the 2x4 cross brace was going to be a problem. I later came up with a solution which you'll see below. After getting the panel out, I started mocking up where I wanted the 2 KM10 subs. Once I figured out where I wanted them, I taped off the area with painters tape to avoid chipping the gel coat with the jig saw. I then drilled a few holes to get the 18 TPI metal jug saw blade started. This was a two person job lol! Always drill gel coat in REVERSE. I changed bits here and forgot to put it back in revers. Oooops... Cut slow and take your time. Test fit and final product. Next I drilled out the bolt holes progressing up in bits until they were 3/16 hole. Again, in REVERSE and slow. They are going to look good!! I then started wiring everything up. This was a little tedious but not to bad. Pretty dirty in these compartments too. All the way from the battery to the port bow storage. I re-used the the lighted switch that went to the useless powered FM antennae (It wouldn't pick up anything...) and wired it for the 12v RF LED ring receivers. I had to trim the 2x4 cross brace to clear the 10" subs. Now the good stuff! I made some half moon shaped pieces of 1x4 PT to eliminate the curvature of the panel. I bought 3" x #10 SS bolts, washers, and lock nuts to replace the 2" wood screws the speakers came with. After wiring up the subs in a comfortable spot (I left plenty of extra 12g speaker wire for this reason), I fitted the speaker into the holes and tightened the top and bottom bolts first and then little by little tightened the other 6 together so it would pull the fiberglass evenly. It worked VERY well and looks factory from in the cockpit. You can see the fiberglass pulled in nicely to fill in the 1/2" gap the curve made. I was worried it might spider crack but the pressure was pulled evenly and worked like a charm. After both subs were in place, I wired up the LED's and tied everything up nice. Here's the final product!! The cool thing about the Kicker KM series speakers, is they come with a static LED wiring harness. I elected to get the remote and RF receiver which allows me to choose from 20 colors and 19 different lighting modes from strobe, fade and color change. As well as 6 or so different speeds for a true custom look. Here a just a few of the colors. They look really good a night. Lights up the cockpit area well. The LED's are even bright enough to see in the daytime! If your looking for a good free air sub, check these out. They sound really good without enclosures! I might build boxes for them one day since the lowest tone I could get to run smooth was 37hz! With a good sealed box, the specs say you can get as low as 20hz!! Now the amp was tricky... I don't have storage space in my consoles like a lot of other boats, and have some sort of rock hard "box" in there anyway, so cutting some is out of the question. I wanted to re-purpose my old MTX Audio 4002 600w 2 channel amp from my highs school days, so since its not a marine amp, it had to go in a dry place. I was able to wire it up on the port bow seats and slide it up onto the 'Mystery Box' and put 2 SS screws in to hold it in place. Worked out good. When you open up the port bow storage seat, all you see are the RCA's. No storage space was lost in that compartment. The front bins seem to get used the most for towels, shoes, bags, and whatever other OK to get wet stuff we bring on board. I looked around for quite awhile, asked questions in other posts, and finally came up with a game plan. I'm happy with the install and I hope it helps someone else too! They sure make a big difference in sound quality!!
  7. I got tired of working in the engine bay and having to point a flashlight or hoping there was enough ambient light to see what I was doing. Since I already had RGB LEDs running throughout the boat I decided to add some to the engine bay. I could have gone with only white LEDs but the cost difference was so small I just used more RGB. I spliced into my existing wiring and added a switch in the engine bay so I can turn the lights in the engine bay on and off independently from the ones that are just for looks throughout the rest of the boat. I will say when ALL the LEDs are on pure white, it lights everything up very well. Maybe I’m just making things up to do since winter hasn’t really ended here yet?
  8. Here are some pictures of the Blue LED's that I had installed on my boat. I read through all of the posts about which LED lights to use in the Radar Arch and I basically kept an open tab with superbrightleds.com working with the right type of LED bulb for the courtyard lights. I had also picked up my a replacement Radar arch lamp set from imtra.com, I also used courtyard exterior housings from a very affordable resource - www.replacementboatparts.com 1. Courtyard and dash lit up. 2. 3. From Swim pad entry 4. BI Color LED's in the Radar Arch 5. Typically you can switch between Blue and White for both, but if you can time it right you can get one white and one blue. Also I have updated all of the Nav lights to be LED, of course the pictures are pretty horrible. But you can get the idea. Note - I went with Cool White LED's for the new Tower light along with a 31mm X 10mm Cool White LED Festoon bulb for the stern light. - RZRBCKCHAP
  9. So my buddy and I started the spring projects this week. We are hoping to work all day sunday and have one of the projects complete. Here are the projects. 1. Multicolored LED lights in the cabin. I have posted this before but here is the link to the light kit we are installing. http://www.xkglow.co..._p/xk074006.htm If you scroll down there is video of the lights installed in a boat. 2. "Beefing" up the center dash blank and adding a mount for my Ipad. Planning on running a 12v powersource and AUX cable throught the blank so I dont have wires visible. 3. Adding LED (one color) lights to all stoage compartments. Ski locker, engine compartment, under seat storage, and under sink. I used a basic 14 light LED kit for this, also from xkglow.com We just spent a couple hours working on this Tuesday. It is going to be a much bigger job than we expected. We hope to have the cabin LED lights complete this Sunday. I will add pictures as we progress. Here is a picture of the dash with the "blank" removed. It is held in place by two medal bars that "pinch" it to the dash. Here is a picture of the switch panel removed. I am using the unused accessory switches to hook the lights up. Doing this to the cabin LEDS is not a big deal becasue the lights are controlled with a key fob, now I will have the ability to cut power to the controller. It is more important to do this to the stroage LEDS because it only comes with a fuse and a small on/off button that is meant to be mounted somewhere. Hooking to accessory switches will allow me to turn the lights on/off via the existing dash switch. More to come this weekend.
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