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Found 8 results

  1. Looking at upgrading to a 2017 Chaparral 287 SSX. Currently comparing two boats at the moment, one with the Mercruiser 6.2L DTS and the other with Mercruiser 8.2 DTS. Would like to know which motor to choose and your thoughts on why. Our use will be mostly for cruising and some tubing with generally 5 adults. (up to 12 people mostly adults). Thanks for any insight.
  2. I am looking to buy a new boat and considering the 21 foot H20. I currently own a 2005 204 SSI. * The used H20 I am buying will save me a bunch of money from buying a new one. However, it comes with a 4.3 220 hp engine. I bought my 204 SSI new with 5.0 250HP mercruiser. My main uses for the boat are slalom skiing, wakeboarding and tubing. The H20 has a wakeboard tower. So I am wondering the following: * Will the tower actually help me get a little air on wakeboard. I am jumping behind the 204, but not getting any height. I am 50, just learning to wakeboard, and know that I won't ever be a serious wakeboarder. But I would like to be able to have a decent occasional jump. * On rare occasions, I will have 5 or 6 others on the boat with me. Will it be easier or harder for my guests to get up with two skis with the wakeboard tower and less power? * In general, will the tower make up for the drop in power for overall boat performance for watersports? Finally, I know the SSI is considered a premium model and the H20 entry level. What will I be missing though with this boat? I know it won't have pull up cleats or hinges on the bow compartments, but what else am I sacrificing by going down a level? Love to hear your thoughts?
  3. Well I have a bit of a problem... I'm leaving for a big trip in 3 days and the ingnition switch is dead. I have checked all fuses under the dash, replaced ingnition switch itself, rewired all old and shorted wires and charged the battery. Every thing works that you can think of. Dash lights and gage's, motor can be moved up and down. (There's power to the motor oneself but not the ignition)Every thing works the ignition doesn't tick or make a sound ethier. I have tested power in many spots and one spot that has nothing is the solenoid wire this is interesting but I have no idea what to do from here. Any help appreciated I have a 1995 Mercury 75 hp motor on the boat. I have have pictures of possible trouble spots if needed
  4. When loading my H2O onto the trailer I am having trouble getting it snug to the front roller. I always end up with about 3 inches of space between the eye and the front V cushion roller/stopper. This allows the boat to bounce up-and-down. I am wondering if I should go ahead and just crank it the rest of the way up tight. That is what I usually do, but it seems to put a lot of stress on the eye. I do not want to mess up the boat. It seems a little tight when I crank it. I usually pull the boat up onto the trailer with the docking rope then once it is aligned I power it up The rest of the way. My problem is it always seems to stop about 3 inches short of being snugged up completely. There's usually about 3 inches of room there which you can push the boat up approximately 2 to 3 inches. As I drive down the road it will bounce up-and-down. So what I usually do is just back the trailer a little further into the water and then crank it up the rest of the way. But like I said it seems to be a little heavy when I crank it. I'm wondering if this is putting to much stress on the eye. Does anyone else have this problem? I have tried to just power up all the way to the eye but it always seems to stop about 3 inches short. If I then pull it back further into the water the boat begins to float which makes the front of the boat press against the roller causing stress when I crank it down tight. Any suggestions? Also when I first got the boat I used to just hand crank it all the way onto the trailer all the way up. But I thought maybe it was putting to much stress on the again. Is this OK to do it that way?
  5. On the verge of buying either a 1995 Sunesta 250 or a 1997 Sunesta 252. The 1995 250 has a VP 7.4 has a Duo Prop and is $3,500 more than the 1997 252 which has a VP 5.7 with a single prop. They both seem to be in good condition although the 250 has all the original canvas, while the 252 only has the bimini; the rest of the canvas was misplaced. Also, the 250 seems to have a slightly different hull being a 16 degree deadrise versus the 252 which is a 15 degree deadrise. This is true even within a model year, for example in 1997 the deadrise is still 15 for the 252 and 16 for the 250. If you are familiar with both the 250 and the 252, please give me an opinion on which way you would go and why. Thanks
  6. Hi everyone, I have a 2002 200 SSE that I purchased a few years ago. I recently found a pin hole leak on the 90o barb fitting where the hydraulic hose attaches to the steering ram. I am assuming that is it the high pressure hose, it has smaller fittings and goes right from the pump to the ram. The other hose is routed through a cooler. I have two problems. The first issue is that I can't get the corroded fitting off. I have tried liquid wrench but it hasn't worked. If I apply any more force, I will end up rounding off the fittings. I am not sure what material they are made of so am not sure if a torch is a good idea, especially since I have covered them with liquid wrench. My next step is to try and pull the entire ram with the hoses attached to give me a better shot at them. Good idea or not recommended? The mounting bracket for the ram has some odd looking bolts on it with little tabs that I assume are there to keep them from backing out. Is it going to be difficult to remove? The second issue is finding replacement hoses. I have looked through the posts on here and have found a few with what seems to be the correct hoses, however, the diagram seems to show only one end with an elbow connection, mine has elbows on both ends. The other question is the length. My hose wraps around underneath and behind the engine. I haven’t seen any online that seem long enough. If I get a hose that is too short but that has the right connections, can I splice in a piece of hose, or is that a really bad idea? Thanks, Jay
  7. Hi There Just found this forum when doing some research on this boat I'm noodling around buying. The boat is in great shape - its a 1999 200 SL but has the 4.3 motor. We usually have 2 adults and one kid on board an a 4th dragging behind on a wakeboard or tube. We currently have a 17ft Bowrider and are looking for something just a bit bigger to have more room when friends visit Anyway - at @ 2500lbs weight - is the 4.3 underweight for watersports? We don't need to get anywhere too fast at top speed so out of the hole is really our biggest concern Any input is appreciated Thanks ! Scott
  8. Thanks in advance for reading this and providing your thoughts. Boat is a well-maintained 2004 Chap 330 with twin Volvo Penta 5.7l GXi-F engines with about 160 hrs on each. Here are the three issues... - Sometimes (say every 2 out of 3 trips) after leaving the dock and initially getting her up on plane and around 3500 RPMs, my port engine's RPMs start to drop (even at full throttle) and get restricted to 2600-2800 RPMs...and when that happens, I stop the boat, turn off the engines and batteries for a minute, then start everything back up and that issue goes away (batteries must be turned off/on too...turning engines off/on by themselves doesn't seem to work) - Despite the above-mentioned problem, and regardless of if or when that happens, the response of the RPM’s on the port engine is ALWAYS very slow and climbs much slower than the starboard engine (I can floor the port engine throttle and it will take a good 10-20 seconds to even get to 3000 RPMs, whereas there's instant response with the starboard engine) - My port engine's oil pressure gauge starts to bounce around (i.e. 40 one second, then below 0 the next, then back up to 20, etc.) after running her for a half hour or so (there is plenty of 15/50 synthetic oil in the engine) Do you think these issues are related? Any idea what the cause(s) may be? Part of me thinks it may be electrical, otherwise why would cutting the engines and batteries off/on be a temporary fix? Could a bad oil sending unit be causing all these problems? Mike