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Found 7 results

  1. Hi All, new owner of a 2003 183SS. Our boat stays in the water at our dock for the season and currently the bilge float switch is wired through the master; no power to the pump or float switch w/ the battery master off. The pump will operate automatically via the float w/ the master on as well as with the helm switch. I want an automatic bilge pump powered at all times. What are the experts' thoughts and experiences on the two options: 1) Add a second automatic pump tee'd into the existing hose w/ backflow valve (w/ appropriate fuse, etc.). Plusses are redundancy, not cutting into the existing harness, etc. Concerns here are the added complexity of the tee and valves as well as mounting the second pump. 2) Wire the existing float switch to the battery (add fuse, etc.). Plusses are no backflow valve, tee, not mounting second pump. Concerns are cutting into the existing harness. I will be using a larger group 27 AGM battery either way. I have a lot of classic auto and airplane experience and understand good wiring practices, etc., but am new to the boat environment. One other question; Can I mount a second pump by carefully drilling and screwing (stainless fastener, proper sealant) the mount to the stringers under the engine? Thanks all, Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays. w
  2. Well, she's here!!! Last Thursday the boat was delivered by my good friend Hatem Gomma, or just Hatem as we all know him here. He did me the favor of a life time and it was such a pleasure to meet him in person and take him out on the test run (and to lunch afterwards ), which I am happy to report was ultimately a success! The value of this board is immense and I can't stress that enough! I actually bought this boat sight unseen through a dealer in Maryland, who was mostly helpful. I had another good friend, Bill Crowell, or Billable Hours inspect the boat for me. Like HG, Bill also did a fantastic job and even found a few inches of water under the deck cooler trapped in the hull because of a clogged drain that he and the dealer drained to make sure the core material was solid, which it was! We think this was from the dealer washing the boat to sell it. Anyways, between these two and others like Dennis, Tom, Dwayne, Joe Miska, and many others, this board is a great place where people truly help others with their boats just for the sake of helping. If anyone needs me to look at a boat or something for them in South Florida, please don't hesitate to ask! Now for the boat, the boat is a '99 2335 SS, which is in very good condition. I think after I fix some of the little things and upgrade others, this boat will be near mint! The boat has a 5.7L (Vortec I think) Mercruiser TBI mounted to a B3. The boat is solid and the upholstery, gauges, and cabin are immaculate! She has a sink, porta potty, stove, transom shower, vhf radio, chartplotter, and bimini top already, but I have a lot of projects planned for this boat that I will post in this thread. For starters, I am going to upgrade the antiquated chart plotter, add a tv, add new deep cycle batteries, make a camping enclosure, underwater lights, make a v berth cushion (this boat lost it's cushion), change the bellows, repaint the transom assembly, add a new stereo system, eventually change the carpet to a non-skid decking, and much more! I will update this thread as I make progress. For now I have a few questions: 1) My bellows (minus the u joint bellows, which looks good) show signs of age, so I'm going to replace. As a DIYer, what special tools and procedures will I need? I am going to order the kit off of ebay and I'm thinking about going with the SEI kit. My boat is dry stacked, so I'm not worried about UV exposure, but I want to replace them for peace of mind. Can I do this project myself? I have done a lot of engine work in the past including pulling an alpha one, but have never done bellows. 2) What impeller do I need for a '99 with bravo 3? Just the one with 8 blades and the shaft key? 3) What spark plugs does my engine take? What gap, .035"? Here are some pictures:
  3. For the life of me I can't find a stereo housing that will fit my existing dash cut out. The old one is sun-weathered and I want to replace it when I install my new stereo. The face dimensions are about 9" x 4" and the cut out dimensions are about 8" x 2.5". Any idea where I can find one? I've already tried 3 and none worked! Help! LOL! Here is the old one that I need to find an exact replacement for:
  4. Hey guys im new to this forum. I have a 2002 183ss and this summer we were out on the lake and the anchor door latch handle broke and the door was stuck in the closes position. After looking at it for hours trying to pry it open, i was forced to break the latch handle. During this, I chipped the fiberglass and it looks like garbage. I know i can get a fiberglass repair kit but does anyone know where i can get a new door. I attatched pictures off the chaparralboats.com "PARTS IDENTIFICATION GUIDE INDEX" http://forum.chaparr...at/2002/183.pdf It looks like i need #1 (183SS Anchor Lid) Part# 3-1143 Any help would be appreciated mike
  5. I have a 2002 183ss with a Merc 4.3 Yesterday i has spring fever and went out and installed a new radio in my boat. After installing it was dark out but i needed to try it out. Like i said it was dark out and i was rushing, I threw the battery in proceeded to connect the battery cables. I put the negative wire on what i thought was the negative terminal but was really the positive terminal. Still not realizing what i did, i went to attach the positive cable and one it touched the negative battery terminal it sparked almost the same as if you tapped 2 jumper cables together. I saw what i did and fixed it. Now i went to turn the ignition and nothing happens. The horn,bilge,lights and everything work but the ignition wont turn on or attempt to start. Do you guys think i fried the computer or just popped a fuse or breaker. I looked under the dash and i can only find the breakers for the horn and accessories. Is there a main fuse or breaker for the boat ignition or motor? Do you guys think i fried the computer? Please HELP!!! Any info is appreciated. I learned my lesson to call it quits once the sun goes down Patiently Waiting, Mike
  6. Hey guys im new to this forum and this is my first post. I have a 2002 183ss and this summer we were out on the lake and the anchor door latch handle broke and the door was stuck in the closes position. After looking at it for hours trying to pry it open, i was forced to break the latch handle. During this, I chipped the fiberglass and it looks like garbage. I know i can get a fiberglass repair kit but does anyone know where i can get a new door. I attatched pictures off the chaparralboats.com "PARTS IDENTIFICATION GUIDE INDEX" http://forum.chaparralboats.com/publications/PartsGuides/Sportboat/2002/183.pdf It looks like i need #1 (183SS Anchor Lid) Part# 3-1143 Any help would be appreciated mike
  7. So, yes, I get it... the proper propeller question is probably the most asked question on any boat forum. But... I'm still going to ask it. What good is a boat forum without a virtual cornucopia of screw threads? Everyone loves to ad their 2ยข (I've got a mac, so making the "cents" sign is as easy as pressing option + 2) to the prop threads. First, my current boat specs: Year: 1998 (I was 15 years old when this boat was sold) Make: Chaparral (what else would it be on this forum?) Model: 2130 SS (Limited Edition - I think that got you some faux wood trim, a compass, and a depth sounder... how does that make it "limited"?) Length: 20' 6" Beam: 8' 4" Engine: GM 305 V8 w/ Throttle Body EFI - 240 HP (Yes, I would love for it have the 350 V8... no idea why the previous owner skimped on the motor...) Stern Drive: Mercruiser Alpha One, 1.47 Drive Ratio OEM Weight: ~ 3150 lbs Current Prop: Mercury 21 Pitch Aluminum 3 Blade (don't know the diameter) And the current Performance: Full Laden Specs - 6 adults: ~ 1020 lbs Gear: 100 lbs Full Laden WOT Engine RPM: 4,800 Full Laden WOT GPS Speed @ 4,800 RPM: 45 mph Minimum Laden Specs - 2 adults: 350 lbs Gear: 70 lbs Minimum Laden WOT Engine RPM: 4,900 Minumum Laden WOT GPS Speed @ 4,900 RPM: 49 mph Here's the condition - I mostly travel with 4-6 passengers in the boat and I prefer to cruise on plane, but at the lowest speed I can maintain on plane while still maintaining an efficient cruise speed. Furthermore, wakeboarding, tubing, and skiing are inevitable on a lake outing; being able to maintain a good holeshot/plane-out time with 6 people in the boat is a necessity. Yes, a bigger motor would be wonderful, however, my current motor runs like a top, so it is staying as is. My boat did come with a stainless steel 21 pitch Mercury Vengeance propeller that was a bit chewed up. I had it reconditioned and installed on the boat yesterday, but I haven't had it out yet. I have no idea what to expect in performance compared to the current prop. I've been considering the Mercury High Five as it comes highly recommended for this type of boat and intended use (and I have a wonderful source to get it quite a bit a cheaper than current market price). I'm also wondering about the Revolution Four. Are there any other props to consider from the other propeller manufacturers? Everyone seems to recommend a pitch, but no one ever comments on radius/diameter. I would imagine that diameter has a substantial effect - is it something to consider in addition to pitch?
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