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Found 32 results

  1. I am preparing to install the factory option Garmin 742xs in my 2016 226. I have ordered the unit, transducer, and woodgrain bezel. The dealer is not showing any additional parts required to the install. It seems like there would be a harness to go from the digital gauges to the unit. Does anyone know if there is an existing Nmea 2000 network from the factory or what is required to tie the engine data to the GPS unit?
  2. Help please. I just purchased a 2007 215 SSI and having 2 issues - engine (Mercruiser 5.0L carb aplpha 1) consistently stalls under 800RPM. And always stalls when I am trying to go through neutral to change gears. This makes docking a real difficult and anxious experience. I also notice that the engine will go from 800RPM to 1800RPM with a slight touch of the shift lever - not smooth at all. And sometimes when I am idling at 1200 RPM, it jumps up 1400 RPM, then back down, then back up - kinda like revving without me touching anything. I thought maybe it was old gas as it had about 10G from last year so I added 35G 89octane.I have run it for 6 hours so far and no change, actually getting worse. I also sprayed the carb with carb cleaner. This did not help. The second issue is changing gears as it takes a while for the transmission to kick in - almost 45 degrees from neutral. This makes changing gears time consuming and add the stalling, very difficult to maneuver. It has a tune up last year with new cap and plugs. Are there some things I can do to stop the stalling? I plan to clean the air box/flame arrestor. Anything else that I can clean, lube, etc.? Thanks in advance.
  3. Hey all. We own a Sunesta 233. We generally love the boat, but have decided we want something with more seating in the cockpit. I have been looking at a Sunesta 263, which is perfect from a seating and space perspective. The biggest complaint I have about out 233 is that it really feels like we get tossed around and the hull really pounds against the larger wake in our lake. I started considering a SSI 253, as it has a deeper , but my wife isn't thrilled with the fact that it less bow seating. If the Sunesta 263 and it's extra 3ft and 1,000 lb will handle the big cruiser wake significantly better than the Sunesta 233, I'm inclined to go that route. If it is going to be more-or-less the same, I would like to move to a SSI with better deadrise. Is there anyone who has experience with both the SSI 256 and Sunesta 263/274 and can provide an opinion?
  4. I purchased a 2005 Sunesta 216 about this time last year. It is my first boat. I like it, but I have found it pounds on wakes or bigger water when the wind kicks up. I'm currently looking at a 2006 SSi 246. According to their respective spec sheets the SSi has 22 degree deadrise. The Sunesta has 16 degrees. Is this substantial enough to help cut waves better? Also, the SSi I am looking at has 450 hours on a Volvo 8.1 GXI with Duo Prop drive. Is that a lot of hours for this engine? Any known issues with this engine or drive? Thanks in advance for any guidance.
  5. Firstly I apologise for the new thread as I couldn't find the right search words to find the old ones on the same topic. I bought a 2006 256 SSI last year, it was in pretty good shape already but I have set about various upgrades as the year progressed. The wood 'metal' dashboards were delaminating around the screw holes and looked untidy so I did some research to work out what to do. Replacement parts are impossible and custom ones are expensive. I found some awesome posts on here where lots of people had been asking the same thing and one or two had posted pictures of their modifications using vinyl wraps. Inspired by these posts I had a go and I can tell you the results are impressive with very little effort (other than re-wiring!) It gave me the oppurtunity to flush mount the chart plotter as there are no good places to mount it on this boat and rearranged some of the switches. The stereo remote had been replaced with a MW4 anyway so it already looked untidy. The result is so close to the original that you could get away with only doing one panel although I did all 3. I cut the panels out of 6mm marine ply, used 3M DI-NOC vinyl wrap with a heat gun to stretch and copious layers of sprayed lacquer to lift out the high gloss. Even up close it looks like a highly polished piece of mahogany, your instruments and switches neatly hide your craftsman imperfections. Remember to label your wires and take lots of photos. This took me a while and I did it in stages over about 6 months. The first panel loos just like the last one that I only just finished today. Total cost was about $60 not including new toys in the dash like the fume detector etc. I hope this will be of use to someone, I have got so much out of posts like this in the past. Cheers Ben
  6. Hi, I currently have a 2007 256 SSI and I'm wondering if there is a way to add the pop-up tow hook in the swim platform. My buddy has a 256 SSX that has one. It looks like my swim platform has the same features and it could possibly just be swapped out.
  7. Considering installing a Transom Shower on my 2006 260 SSI. Any Do's or Don't I should consider?
  8. I'm having a bit of an issue locating some replacement hatches for my 2000 196 SSI. The Ski Locker hatch has cracked down the middle. The Bow Anchor hatch is cracked. And the large back engine hatch is nearly impossible to open, will not stay open, and its back hinges are nearly stripped and falling off. The photos attached aren't my boat but are for reference. Any help or links to replacements would be greatly appreciated.
  9. RichH

    H20 vs. SSI

    I am looking to buy a new boat and considering the 21 foot H20. I currently own a 2005 204 SSI. * The used H20 I am buying will save me a bunch of money from buying a new one. However, it comes with a 4.3 220 hp engine. I bought my 204 SSI new with 5.0 250HP mercruiser. My main uses for the boat are slalom skiing, wakeboarding and tubing. The H20 has a wakeboard tower. So I am wondering the following: * Will the tower actually help me get a little air on wakeboard. I am jumping behind the 204, but not getting any height. I am 50, just learning to wakeboard, and know that I won't ever be a serious wakeboarder. But I would like to be able to have a decent occasional jump. * On rare occasions, I will have 5 or 6 others on the boat with me. Will it be easier or harder for my guests to get up with two skis with the wakeboard tower and less power? * In general, will the tower make up for the drop in power for overall boat performance for watersports? Finally, I know the SSI is considered a premium model and the H20 entry level. What will I be missing though with this boat? I know it won't have pull up cleats or hinges on the bow compartments, but what else am I sacrificing by going down a level? Love to hear your thoughts?
  10. I bought my boat last year and the boat came with the forward side curtains and the connector piece only. My boat has a radar arch and Bimini top connected to it. I want to buy the missing camper side curtain and camper aft curtain to cover the aft for boating in the fall or to use on rainy days but the Ameritex and RNR Marine prices are too expensive for both pieces, almost 1500 deers. Does anyone have pictures of the boat with the camper side curtain and camper aft curtain in place that you can share? You had it custom made? What's the approximate cost? Thank you
  11. Hey, All. Before I order one new, I was wondering if on an off-chance, anyone is selling the original snap-on cover for a 2012 Chap 226 SSi with the wake tower. Yes, I lost mine in the lake last year (amateur mistake) and have struggled with various others. Now, I've decided to go back to the snap-on type and the cost-to-replace new is $1300. Anyone happen to have one they'd like to part with? Message me asap since I have to order one soon! Thanks! Kevin
  12. CJeff

    Factory Tower?

    I purchased a used 2004 210ssi with a wakeboard tower. Can anyone tell me how to find out if it is a factory tower. I purchased a cover from coveranything.com and it doesn't fit. I have asked coveranything.com and they tell me to call the manufacturer. I also asked if they can provide the measurements of where they place the wakeboard tower holes and they told me to call WestlandIndustries (the maker of the cover). I feel like coveranything should do a better job of providing information but instead they just refer to the fine print. Anyway, back to my question: From a newbie: How can I find out if I have a factory or aftermarket tower?
  13. Hello... I'm the happy owner of a 265 SSI 2002 model. But I feel the boat is much slower than it should be. It's powered with a Volvo 5.7 GXI which I believe is putting out 280hp. At full throttle I'm maxing about 34 on my GPS. The props are in good shape. But I'm not sure of the pitch. It's has DPS. The prior owner put a hydrofoil on the outdrive. It gets right on plane. It's been serviced by a professional mechanic every year. Anyone else with the same boat that can chime in?
  14. I am currently struggling between two "final" choices, a 2016 226 SSi and a 2013 244 Sunesta. Both after my negotiation are equal in price ($55k) and I was able to a comparable rate and payments are within $20 of each other. I walked into the Chaparrel dealership torn between the 224 Sunesta (my initial first choice) and the 226 SSi and 227 SSX. With trailer the 224 Sunesta quickly priced itself out of the budget I set myself. Then because the queen bee liked the pasenger bucket vs. the Oasis lounge, ended on the 226 SSi. We test drove it, and enjoyed it very much. Engine is the Mercury Gen V 1.97-SX 240 HP V6 w/ short riser. THEN, at the Cobalt dealership a mile down the road we noticed the 2013 Chaparral 244 Sunesta with the Volvo Penta 5.0 GXi DP 270 HP. It has both the Convenience and Premium package and is a one owner (113 hours) an executive at BB&T Bank. One "major" difference is the 2016 for end of season is coming with a 5 year bumper to bumper warranty along with the lifetime hull. The 2013 we would need to add and pay for an extended warranty (would this be recommended)...so... It is my girlfriend and I and I have 4 kids, 11, 12, 14, and 16. We do lake boating, but hope to expand our experience, maybe even the Keys. Etc. THOUGHTS???
  15. Looking at the difference between a 2016 226 SSI and the VRX SSI has 6.2 Merc 300HP with B3 dual prop. Looking for opinions on the pluses and minus of SSI vs VRX (jetboat same size). Thanks
  16. I just bought a beautiful 2004 190 SSi a few months ago and immediately noticed the stock stereo could use a little boost. It would get very loud without distorting unless you turned the bass way down. So, I started looking around this forum for sub-woofer ideas. I always thought the rear bench seat was the ultimate place for a few subs. I quickly found out that a lot of people avoided putting speakers there for numerous reasons. The most talked about one was the curvature of the fiberglass panel. I found some good free air subs, ordered all my OFC wiring and parts, and with a little blood, a lot of sweat, a few tears, and numerous trips to the hardware store, I got them in there and I'm glad I did! they turned out great and don't sound half bad either. Here's My Story Hey Mr. Postman!! I then started tearing into the rear bench to see what I was getting into. I also wanted to get that prized fiberglass panel out and get it into my shop to work on it easier. Man it was dirty in there!! Lets clean it up a bit while its easier to get to. I could already see that the 2x4 cross brace was going to be a problem. I later came up with a solution which you'll see below. After getting the panel out, I started mocking up where I wanted the 2 KM10 subs. Once I figured out where I wanted them, I taped off the area with painters tape to avoid chipping the gel coat with the jig saw. I then drilled a few holes to get the 18 TPI metal jug saw blade started. This was a two person job lol! Always drill gel coat in REVERSE. I changed bits here and forgot to put it back in revers. Oooops... Cut slow and take your time. Test fit and final product. Next I drilled out the bolt holes progressing up in bits until they were 3/16 hole. Again, in REVERSE and slow. They are going to look good!! I then started wiring everything up. This was a little tedious but not to bad. Pretty dirty in these compartments too. All the way from the battery to the port bow storage. I re-used the the lighted switch that went to the useless powered FM antennae (It wouldn't pick up anything...) and wired it for the 12v RF LED ring receivers. I had to trim the 2x4 cross brace to clear the 10" subs. Now the good stuff! I made some half moon shaped pieces of 1x4 PT to eliminate the curvature of the panel. I bought 3" x #10 SS bolts, washers, and lock nuts to replace the 2" wood screws the speakers came with. After wiring up the subs in a comfortable spot (I left plenty of extra 12g speaker wire for this reason), I fitted the speaker into the holes and tightened the top and bottom bolts first and then little by little tightened the other 6 together so it would pull the fiberglass evenly. It worked VERY well and looks factory from in the cockpit. You can see the fiberglass pulled in nicely to fill in the 1/2" gap the curve made. I was worried it might spider crack but the pressure was pulled evenly and worked like a charm. After both subs were in place, I wired up the LED's and tied everything up nice. Here's the final product!! The cool thing about the Kicker KM series speakers, is they come with a static LED wiring harness. I elected to get the remote and RF receiver which allows me to choose from 20 colors and 19 different lighting modes from strobe, fade and color change. As well as 6 or so different speeds for a true custom look. Here a just a few of the colors. They look really good a night. Lights up the cockpit area well. The LED's are even bright enough to see in the daytime! If your looking for a good free air sub, check these out. They sound really good without enclosures! I might build boxes for them one day since the lowest tone I could get to run smooth was 37hz! With a good sealed box, the specs say you can get as low as 20hz!! Now the amp was tricky... I don't have storage space in my consoles like a lot of other boats, and have some sort of rock hard "box" in there anyway, so cutting some is out of the question. I wanted to re-purpose my old MTX Audio 4002 600w 2 channel amp from my highs school days, so since its not a marine amp, it had to go in a dry place. I was able to wire it up on the port bow seats and slide it up onto the 'Mystery Box' and put 2 SS screws in to hold it in place. Worked out good. When you open up the port bow storage seat, all you see are the RCA's. No storage space was lost in that compartment. The front bins seem to get used the most for towels, shoes, bags, and whatever other OK to get wet stuff we bring on board. I looked around for quite awhile, asked questions in other posts, and finally came up with a game plan. I'm happy with the install and I hope it helps someone else too! They sure make a big difference in sound quality!!
  17. Hello all, I have to replace a bad circuit breaker under dash on my 2003 200 SSI (5.0 MPI Alpha). The post snapped off of it when I was attempting to remove the panel...#^@#*! This push button breaker is for my ignition and is made by JoeMex 77 series 20A 125VAC 50/60Hz 50VDC. I see several 20 AMP breakers made by Blue Sea and Sierra but they all seem to be 32 VDC... The broken breaker is pictured and this is what I'm thinking will replace it: https://www.bluesea.com/products/7057/Push_Button_Reset_Only_Quick_Connect_Circuit_Breaker_-_20_Amps My question, is it safe to replace the 20 AMP 50 VDC Joemex with a 20 AMP 32 VDC from Sierra or Blue Sea systems? If not, does anyone no where I can pick up a replacement breaker? I've searched all over and can't seem to find 20 AMP 50 VDC circuit breakers anywhere. Thank you in advance.
  18. Okay so I have tried a couple attempts to lay my seats flat and I must be missing something..All I end up doing is moving them as a unit forward and back, but they aren't separating or laying flat. There is a little black handle that I can lift to "ungear it" from whatever locking mechanism is in place that just seems to move the entire seat. Searched the internet and my manuals before asking and I can't seem to find the answer. I think they do need some lubrication as well. Any help please????
  19. Boat is a model year 2004 SSi 260 and the bow light is part number 3810P1 (based on the SSI 260 parts guide PDF). The bow light does not come on and I'm not sure exactly what the issue is. I live 3 hours from where the boat is kept, so unfortunately I cannot just run out and check it. I was wondering if anyone had any idea what kind of bulb this bow light takes, OR whether it's worth it replace the old bow light with a concealable LED bow light? What I'm not sure of is how the current bow lights is mounted (whether it screws in from the top, or whether there is a plate under the deck that the light secures to). Has anyone done any work on theirs and have any idea they can share about it? Thanks.
  20. Hey Everyone, Quick question... How do I either remove the factory stereo from the glove box area or gain access to the area behind it in a 2005 204 SSi?. I have a 6 speaker system and only the center speakers are working. So the aft & forward speakers are not playing. I have an amp mounted under the aft seat and it is powering on. Havent troubleshot it too much yet. Mainly wanted to make sure the inputs to the amp coming from the radio were still connected. So thats my question... How do I get back there? Thanks in advance!!
  21. From the album: 2001 Chaparral SSi 216

    2001 Chaparral Ssi 216 with Volvo Penta 5.0 Gi.
  22. From the album: 2001 Chaparral SSi 216

    Cleaned up ready to hit the water. Fresh water only!
  23. From the album: 2001 Chaparral SSi 216

    Stored away and ready for the next outting.
  24. Hello all, Please help redirect me if this is not the right place to post this. I am looking for two things: (1) a transom shower cup and cover (I have the shower hardware itself, but I knocked the cover into the water...it does not float). <-- I have contacted Cecil Marine about this one already, but wanted to drop in here as well and see what anyone could offer. (2) Bow lounger cushions. These are the two cushions that fill in the space in the bow to make it into a lounge instead of the benches. I would be in the market for the cushions as well as the cross-members to support it. Thanks. Miscellaneous: I'd like to repair some of the scuffed vinyl striping and was wondering if anyone could recommend a reputable place to find replacement vinyl striping that matched in color. Many thanks.
  25. So here's the rub: we have a "family" boat, meaning that it is shared among young and old alike. The "kids" (hardly young enough to be called that anymore) would like to put a subwoofer on board and I think it's a fine idea as long as it's not going to melt the boat into a pile of stinking plastic. The plan is for a removable set-up (see "Family boat" for the reasoning there). The sub/amp set-up/wiring/etc is from a car and works just fine. (I know it's not marine, but it's never going to live on the boat and it's never going to be left out in the elements and anyway it's mine and if it breaks, well then that's what happens and I learn my lesson. ) It's big enough to "be awesome" and small enough that it can be carted off the boat when the adults want a boat with storage not taken up by one enormous speaker. NOW TO THE ACTUAL QUESTIONS: (1) Is there any reason why the boat battery / alternator / (and especially) battery cross-over should not and cannot be hooked up to power a 750 watt (when bridged) amplifier? I should note that when this the boat is typically run off of battery 1, and this will be hooked up to battery 2. I will either run the boat on battery 2 when the amp is hooked up, or else run on BOTH depending on the advice I get here. (2) Is there any reason why the power and ground wires to the amplifier should not or cannot be hooked up directly to the battery terminals with good strong alligator clips? I don't foresee this being a problem with the 12V power supply - I am more wondering about grounding directly to the battery terminal as I have never used a set-up like this before. (3) Seriously, am I going to mess up my batteries or my cross-over or anything? That is my biggest and most major concern. Thanks.
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