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Found 6 results

  1. So I recently purchased a 2016 Suncoast with the Electric Steering (they are outboard) and the Wet Sounds stereo upgrade. The system sounds fine, but every time I rotate the steering wheel if the stereo is on you see/hear the subwoofer hum. If the stereo is on, but the volume is low...turning the steering wheel creates a low frequency moan from the subwoofer, you can see it oscillating in/out with every movement at the wheel. When music is playing, there is enough noise that this added signal is not really noticed; has anyone else seen this? I am suspecting I will need to add a choke to the power wire feeding the amp...thoughts?
  2. ExitStrategy

    JL Subwoofer Installation - 244 Sunesta

    I'm posting this in the hopes it helps other Chaparral owners if they're interested in installing their own after-market subwoofer(s). I reviewed countless forums, no one could agree on how to cut the fiberglass (jigsaw vs. zipsaw vs. airsaw, etc.). Below is an overview of my recently completed installation. If you have any questions, please reply and I'll be happy to answer them. Equipment Installed: JL Audio M10IB5-SG 10:" subwoofer JL Audio MHX300/1 300 watt amplifier JL Audio RBC1 remote bass controller This installation is in-addition to our previously upgraded 4x JL Audio 6" speakers (replacing Chaparral's factory speakers) & amplifier, and 2 x 6" WetSounds speakers in the aftermarket tower (post on how we installed our Monster Tower coming soon). The system utilizes a Clarion M505 head unit. Determining Location for Subwoofer: Lots of debate on this, we selected under the cockpit for our mounting location: Installation Steps: Start by drilling a pilot hole (make sure you tape several layers using painters tape) Using the hole as a guide, cut a template (I used cardboard) to trace a circle on the carpet inside the cabinet. Once you have your circle, use an exacto-blade to cut out the carpet: On the fiberglass, use painter's tape (I used 3-layers) to block-out the area to be cut. Then, using the same template as used for the carpet, trace a circle for the hole: Making the cut I utilized a jigsaw with a carbide "grit" bit to make the cut. This setup cut the fiberglass like butter. My only suggestion is to wear a protective facemask as I only utilized a t-shirt during the cut and I'm certain I've done irreparable damage to my lungs from the fiberglass I inhaled Installing the Speaker and Amplifier: Using the piece of fiberglass from the cut, drill a pilot hole and test the screws before drilling the holes in your boat. REMEMBER to set the drill to REVERSE when doing this or you'll "spider" your fiberglass: Mount your speaker and amplifier(s): I recommend the additional "Remote Bass Controller" as every song has varying levels of bass. Having the control knob in the cockpit is a convenient way to control the bass level without modifying your head-unit or amplifier. The above was installed on our 2008 Chaparral Sunesta 244:
  3. BestKeptSecret

    Upgrading sounds system on 2005 Sig 31

    Looking for some sound advice! Just purchased a 2005 31 Signature and I am looking to upgrade the sound system. More specifically, the head unit, remotes (helm/transom) and speakers on the sides of the arch. I would also like to add a amp, sub-woofer and two exterior speakers somewhere on the aft so that we can hear the music while hanging out behind the boat. I saw a previous thread on this topic but it was an older post. Wondering if anyone has any experience with a similar year/model? Curious where others have put the sub-woofer on deck as well as the exterior speakers. Also wondering what head units and remotes others have had success with? Thanks in advance!!

    190 SSi Sub Woofer Install

    I just bought a beautiful 2004 190 SSi a few months ago and immediately noticed the stock stereo could use a little boost. It would get very loud without distorting unless you turned the bass way down. So, I started looking around this forum for sub-woofer ideas. I always thought the rear bench seat was the ultimate place for a few subs. I quickly found out that a lot of people avoided putting speakers there for numerous reasons. The most talked about one was the curvature of the fiberglass panel. I found some good free air subs, ordered all my OFC wiring and parts, and with a little blood, a lot of sweat, a few tears, and numerous trips to the hardware store, I got them in there and I'm glad I did! they turned out great and don't sound half bad either. Here's My Story Hey Mr. Postman!! I then started tearing into the rear bench to see what I was getting into. I also wanted to get that prized fiberglass panel out and get it into my shop to work on it easier. Man it was dirty in there!! Lets clean it up a bit while its easier to get to. I could already see that the 2x4 cross brace was going to be a problem. I later came up with a solution which you'll see below. After getting the panel out, I started mocking up where I wanted the 2 KM10 subs. Once I figured out where I wanted them, I taped off the area with painters tape to avoid chipping the gel coat with the jig saw. I then drilled a few holes to get the 18 TPI metal jug saw blade started. This was a two person job lol! Always drill gel coat in REVERSE. I changed bits here and forgot to put it back in revers. Oooops... Cut slow and take your time. Test fit and final product. Next I drilled out the bolt holes progressing up in bits until they were 3/16 hole. Again, in REVERSE and slow. They are going to look good!! I then started wiring everything up. This was a little tedious but not to bad. Pretty dirty in these compartments too. All the way from the battery to the port bow storage. I re-used the the lighted switch that went to the useless powered FM antennae (It wouldn't pick up anything...) and wired it for the 12v RF LED ring receivers. I had to trim the 2x4 cross brace to clear the 10" subs. Now the good stuff! I made some half moon shaped pieces of 1x4 PT to eliminate the curvature of the panel. I bought 3" x #10 SS bolts, washers, and lock nuts to replace the 2" wood screws the speakers came with. After wiring up the subs in a comfortable spot (I left plenty of extra 12g speaker wire for this reason), I fitted the speaker into the holes and tightened the top and bottom bolts first and then little by little tightened the other 6 together so it would pull the fiberglass evenly. It worked VERY well and looks factory from in the cockpit. You can see the fiberglass pulled in nicely to fill in the 1/2" gap the curve made. I was worried it might spider crack but the pressure was pulled evenly and worked like a charm. After both subs were in place, I wired up the LED's and tied everything up nice. Here's the final product!! The cool thing about the Kicker KM series speakers, is they come with a static LED wiring harness. I elected to get the remote and RF receiver which allows me to choose from 20 colors and 19 different lighting modes from strobe, fade and color change. As well as 6 or so different speeds for a true custom look. Here a just a few of the colors. They look really good a night. Lights up the cockpit area well. The LED's are even bright enough to see in the daytime! If your looking for a good free air sub, check these out. They sound really good without enclosures! I might build boxes for them one day since the lowest tone I could get to run smooth was 37hz! With a good sealed box, the specs say you can get as low as 20hz!! Now the amp was tricky... I don't have storage space in my consoles like a lot of other boats, and have some sort of rock hard "box" in there anyway, so cutting some is out of the question. I wanted to re-purpose my old MTX Audio 4002 600w 2 channel amp from my highs school days, so since its not a marine amp, it had to go in a dry place. I was able to wire it up on the port bow seats and slide it up onto the 'Mystery Box' and put 2 SS screws in to hold it in place. Worked out good. When you open up the port bow storage seat, all you see are the RCA's. No storage space was lost in that compartment. The front bins seem to get used the most for towels, shoes, bags, and whatever other OK to get wet stuff we bring on board. I looked around for quite awhile, asked questions in other posts, and finally came up with a game plan. I'm happy with the install and I hope it helps someone else too! They sure make a big difference in sound quality!!
  5. Any suggestions of the best place to mount a 10" JBL powered subwoofer? I would like for it to be Heard but not Seen. I was thinking of mounting on the port side under the glove box. The only problem is that it is a curved area. Thanks for any suggestions.
  6. So here's the rub: we have a "family" boat, meaning that it is shared among young and old alike. The "kids" (hardly young enough to be called that anymore) would like to put a subwoofer on board and I think it's a fine idea as long as it's not going to melt the boat into a pile of stinking plastic. The plan is for a removable set-up (see "Family boat" for the reasoning there). The sub/amp set-up/wiring/etc is from a car and works just fine. (I know it's not marine, but it's never going to live on the boat and it's never going to be left out in the elements and anyway it's mine and if it breaks, well then that's what happens and I learn my lesson. ) It's big enough to "be awesome" and small enough that it can be carted off the boat when the adults want a boat with storage not taken up by one enormous speaker. NOW TO THE ACTUAL QUESTIONS: (1) Is there any reason why the boat battery / alternator / (and especially) battery cross-over should not and cannot be hooked up to power a 750 watt (when bridged) amplifier? I should note that when this the boat is typically run off of battery 1, and this will be hooked up to battery 2. I will either run the boat on battery 2 when the amp is hooked up, or else run on BOTH depending on the advice I get here. (2) Is there any reason why the power and ground wires to the amplifier should not or cannot be hooked up directly to the battery terminals with good strong alligator clips? I don't foresee this being a problem with the 12V power supply - I am more wondering about grounding directly to the battery terminal as I have never used a set-up like this before. (3) Seriously, am I going to mess up my batteries or my cross-over or anything? That is my biggest and most major concern. Thanks.