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Found 14 results

  1. I'm thinking of putting trim tabs on our 07 236 SSX. I need it to be able to stay on plane a few mph slower for wakeboarding. I struggle keeping the bow down under 24 mph and would love to get down to the 20-21 mph range. Has anyone added trim tabs to their 236? What size? Where should they be placed? I remember reading that closer to the out drive was better placement for wakeboarding improvements but the thread never provided any resolution. Thanks, EC
  2. I'm getting ready to install some trim tabs I purchased as soon as it warms up. I was going to add the EIC5000 during the install and was thinking of adding the Auto Tab Control in the future, although I wasn't sure where to mount the control. I just noticed they have a new AutoTrim Pro. I'm not sure if it is essentially a combination of the existing ATC and EIC kits into one control, or if it is something completely different. According to their site its "AutoTrim Pro is an all-in-one trim tab control system packing in a boatload of essential features into an easy-to-use, space-saving keypad, designed for use with either electric OR hydraulic systems, boats of all sizes." Has anyone heard anything?
  3. Okay wisers - after a little over half a season running with trim tabs, I seem to have more occurrences of prop blowout in turns than I had pre-trim tab days. Is this to be expected and what are you doing to minimize it? Should I be considering a prop upgrade? I am running the factory Bravo Three 24P 4/3 props that came on the boat. Thanks in advance....
  4. Okay, after more distractions and delays than I want to list or anyone wants to hear, I finally got the job done and did the initial setup today. Results are awesome. The controller took 5 minutes to set up after launching and immediately we got MUCH smoother ride on rough water. Bow rise on hole shot is non-existent. Stability and staying on plane at lower speed than before - I can hold plane at about 18 mph now, which is 4-5 mph lower than without the tabs & controller. The automatic leveling is so nice. Installed on my '12 246 SSI WT: Lenco Edgemount 12x12 2" Magnesium anodes (I'm in fresh water only) AutoGlide controller with Lowrance Point-1 GPS antenna ( included in kit) No Mercury NMEA2000 Gateway (maybe next year) Tabs took about 3-4 hrs to install (the second one only took 40 minutes) Pulling control cables from the engine compartment to helm: 2 hrs (only 40 minutes once we realized there's a removable panel under the gunnel we used as a pulling junction) Drill out hole for the controller pad in the helm and the GPS antenna in the top deck by the windshield - 90 minutes Wiring the controller harness to tab control cables, set up the NMEA2K network, put power on the NMEA2K & controller from the helm ground terminal block and the power bus in the helm breaker panel - 4 hrs. I'm fat, it's hot, and my skinny son did most of the tight space work. Multiple trips to Lowe's/Home Depot/O'Reilly's to get tools/supplies we didn't have/ran out of/didn't know we needed - 8 hrs. Well, you know...... Unhanging fish tape that was snagged in the gunnel on other cabling: 2 hrs+ Waiting on responses from Lenco wrt tab location on transom - 1week, that was a key delay but they were very helpful when we finally got on the phone together. You get the idea. All in all probably took twice as long as necessary or than an experienced boat specialist could do. First major project on my boat, most challenging electrical asks (I'm a mechanical engineer with below average electrical aptitude), wife gets foot surgery in the middle of the project, blah blah. Three biggest lessons I learned: 1. When connecting the actuator cable to the tab control cable that runs to the helm, make sure you feel TWO CLICKS. This is the #1 support problem Lenco gets for customers who have unresponsive tabs after installation. 2. Unless you're a fish tape god, you're not pushing that tape+cable or tape+pull cord all!the way from the rear of the boat to the helm. The sooner you open the access panel to the gunnel behind the gear shift/throttle and use it, the better. Don't fight the tape, use whatever means you have to just get the dang wiring pulled. 3. If you don't have a skinny kid who's handy and likes these kinds of projects, you may want to consider having your local dealer install this stuff. I'm 5'11, 225 lbs and I simply could not get to some of the places I needed to. My son is 5'10", 155 lbs, a senior Industrial Design student and was digging this project so he was indispensable. I'd hoped to document this project but the drawn-out and disconnected nature of things prevented it. I'll be more than happy to share my experience to help somebody else get it done - just ask. Many thanks to Richard and Chris for helpful hints and pics, and also Mike/sprint7 for sharing his experience and some good photos.
  5. Hi, I have a Chaparral signature 330 and a couple of question Everyone is telling me (and have red on the web) that to make the bow go down you press 'forward' or the top of the trim tab buttons. What's confusing is that the tab itself has a pic of a boat with an arrow pointing from the bow up at the top and from the bow down at the bottom. In other words I read this as "press the bottom of the button to make the bow go down". Am I an idiot? I can't imagine I am interpreting this wrong but every single person is telling me it's the other way around. Question 2: I have checked operation in the slip and the taps work. Been driving in the ocean near Oceanside, CA. Made 5 or 6 trips to Catalina. When I'm out on the ocean I have literally never been able to notice a difference in bow with tabs in either position. I also seem to get horrible gas mileage and want to figure out what I'm doing wrong. The bow always seems a little high. The point of the wake seems a little high (not rooster tailing but like a foot or two of action) and I can't tell if this is normal or not. I never truly seem to plane until about 27/28 knots but that seems to be running my boat pretty fast which I can't always do depending on sea conditions.
  6. Just wanted to share an experience I had while getting my new-to-me (and very abused by whomever had it prior) Chap 300 Signature. One of the hydraulic trim tab cylinders was seeping. When I pulled it from the tab and the tab flopped down, it became immediately apparent the tab was shot. The hinge was rotted and the hinge pin was broken in at least three places. Had I put it in the water and opened it up, I'm convinced water would have worked up under that broken hinge and sheared the whole plate,actuator etc. right off the boat. Anyway - not thinking, I measured - 18x9. OK - got online, found the best prices I could get on Bennett replacement tabs and ordered them. When they arrived I knew I was in for some trouble. Standard Bennett tabs bolt to the transom of the boat and they have a backing plate and sort of a "wedge-hinge" which keeps things flexible. Chaparral (at least for the 300) actually cut notches into the hull so the tab sits under the boat and only about 3" behind the transom (just enough for the special cylinder ) to fit. That arrangement can't use the standard Bennett hinge. Instead, there are "piano hinges" on mine - and those are the rotted parts. I'm not sure if they weren't stainless, the guy didn't have zincs or what..but they were a mess. At any rate I ended up contacting Bennett Marine.to sort out how to order the proper tabs. Turns out they custom build those for Chaparral and I guess its been a while since they did a build. None in stock anywhere. So they had me return to them the tabs I had already purchased. Four days after they received them, I received 2 brand new trim plates with the proper hinges and a nice note apologizing for the trouble. No bill, didn't even charge me for shippingl So there are a few companies who generally want to sell you what you need vs what's in the store. I'll never forget it or use another brand. Take care, Ben Johnson
  7. Just wanted to share an experience I had while getting my new-to-me (and very abused by whomever had it prior) Chap 300 Signature. One of the hydraulic trim tab cylinders was seeping. When I pulled it from the tab and the tab flopped down, it became immediately apparent the tab was shot. The hinge was rotted and the hinge pin was broken in at least three places. Had I put it in the water and opened it up, I'm convinced water would have worked up under that broken hinge and sheared the whole plate,actuator etc. right off the boat. Anyway - not thinking, I measured - 18x9. OK - got online, found the best prices I could get on Bennett replacement tabs and ordered them. When they arrived I knew I was in for some trouble. Standard Bennett tabs bolt to the transom of the boat and they have a backing plate and sort of a "wedge-hinge" which keeps things flexible. Chaparral (at least for the 300) actually cut notches into the hull so the tab sits under the boat and only about 3" behind the transom (just enough for the special cylinder ) to fit. That arrangement can't use the standard Bennett hinge. Instead, there are "piano hinges" on mine - and those are the rotted parts. I'm not sure if they weren't stainless, the guy didn't have zincs or what..but they were a mess. At any rate I ended up contacting Bennett Marine.to sort out how to order the proper tabs. Turns out they custom build those for Chaparral and I guess its been a while since they did a build. None in stock anywhere. So they had me return to them the tabs I had already purchased. Four days after they received them, I received 2 brand new trim plates with the proper hinges and a nice note apologizing for the trouble. No bill, didn't even charge me for shippingl So there are a few companies who generally want to sell you what you need vs what's in the store. I'll never forget it or use another brand. Take care, Ben Johnson
  8. While waiting on a response from Lenco, figured I'd throw this out to you guys.... all measurements made, drilling templates made for hinges, pulling wire in place for controller wiring to helm, etc. Like several others here I have interference from transom tie-downs to the recommended tab location. Lenco recommends the outboard edge of the tab located 1"-4" from the chine, and inboard edge of the tab to be 2" or more beyond the first lifting strake. As you can see by the photo, enhanced by my very excellent sketch my tab locations will be 7-1/8" from the chine and 3-1/2" past the strake. But, tab centerline will still be in the outermost quarter of the hull bottom, which seems to me to still be in the prime location for effectiveness. I'd like to get Lenco's view on this but the holiday weekend is coming and I am itching to get this project completed. Frankly speaking, unless they just totally poo-poo it, Lenco's response is not likely to make much of a difference as I have no options on trailer modification to shift the strap away from the present location. Whaddya think, shipmates.... http://i1344.photobucket.com/albums/p657/nkdenton/IMG_1405182154571_zps10576463.jpeg http://i1344.photobucket.com/albums/p657/nkdenton/KDentonTransomDims_zps122af83d.jpg
  9. Hi, I have an older 1930 ss that I would like to put smart tabs on. I am going to be teaching boy scouts to water ski for a merit badge this summer and would like a little slower planning speed. Unfortunately, the boat is in storage right now so I can’t check. Does anyone have them on an equivalent boat? I do not have a swim platform so the boat ladder hangs down onto the transom. I am fairly certain that the ladder will be in the way of the tabs. Am I forced to choose between the tabs and the ladder? Does anybody have any other ideas or options? Thanks Len
  10. Good morning all, this is my first time posting on this site. I'm picking up a 2004 chaparral 230 SSI this Tuesday. It's a creampuff of a boat, has low hours (160) on a mercuiser 5.0, I can't say enough about how well the previous owner took care of his toy. The outdrive is a bravo one with an aluminum prop which seems to be a little underpowered to me. The previous owner installed a stingray hydro fin which helps get on plane much faster with 4 people and a full tank of fuel. I'm thinking of taking the fin off and installing tabs, as the boats layout creates more of a port list due to the seating arrangement. What are your thoughts about: 1. Adding tabs and removing the hydrofoil? and/or 2. 3 bladed stainless prop vs. 4 bladed prop or should i just keep the aluminum prop on? I don't care so much about top end as I do a quicker hole shot or slower planning speeds. 3. or a combo of both? I have read that the hydrofoil and the four bladed props will decrease top end speeds, how much, not sure. I grew up on Chaparrals from my father's 19 footer to a Signature 30....wonderful boats and now I'm proud to say that I own one. Thanks in advance, Big E
  11. Good evening all, this is my first time posting on this site. I'm picking up a 2004 chaparral 230 SSI this Tuesday. It's a creampuff of a boat, has low hours (160) on a mercuiser 5.0, I can't say enough about how well the previous owner took care of his toy. The outdrive is a bravo one with an aluminum prop which seems to be a little underpowered to me. The previous owner installed a stingray hydro fin which helps get on plane much faster with 4 people and a full tank of fuel. I'm thinking of taking the fin off and installing tabs, as the boats layout creates more of a port list due to the seating arrangement. What are your thoughts about: 1. Adding tabs and removing the hydrofoil? and/or 2. 3 bladed stainless prop vs. 4 bladed prop or should i just keep the aluminum prop on? I don't care so much about top end as I do a quicker hole shot or slower planning speeds. 3. or a combo of both? I have read that the hydrofoil and the four bladed props will decrease top end speeds, how much, not sure. I grew up on Chaparrals from my father's 19 footer to a Signature 30....wonderful boats and now I'm proud to say that I own one. Thanks in advance, Big E
  12. Just curious how many are running trim tabs on their boat? I have a 2003 Sunesta Deck Boat....Original Owner with 400 hours on the 5.0 (Volvo) I've noticed as my kids are getting older (Heavier) I'm having a bit of trouble getting on plane. Currently I'm running a 4-blade 18 pitch blade that was recommended by Sun Country. I used to have zero problems getting on plane, but as the weight increases in the boat I'm having a bit of trouble. Even having everybody shift to the front of the boat helps, but as more passengers jump in so does the inability to quickly go on plane. So here are my questions?? If your using trim tabs, what brand, and would you recommend them? How difficult is it to swap out for a larger engine....Chevy 350, slightly built? Or is there a better alternative for power? Note: Boat still has plenty of power with just a few passengers, and with the wake tower I'm still able to pull everybody out of the water without problems.
  13. I will be installing Lenco trim tabs on my 2007 256 ssi tomorrow. I have seen the other threads here and feel confident about the installation of the tabs. My question is about the wiring I will not be using the Lenco switch, I purchased two rocker switches and the trim tab covers and want to install them where the current accessory switches are. Has anyone done an install like this with Lenco trim tabs? I sure could use any advice. Thank you.
  14. Finally overcame my fear of drilling Gelcoat and installed the trim tabs. WOW! Handling is dramatically improved. The bow hardly rises on hole shot, and nose wandering at idle speed is non-existent. I can't tell if top speed has improved because I am working some water out of the gas tank, but I can tell by feel that planing time and speed have improved. I can highly recommend the mod.