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referee77

Head and Galley fresh water faucets...

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What does it look like?

Kinda like this (not exact)... and attached to the boats clear plastic water lines....

iyjx3r.jpg

I will prob attempt to put the old one back on this weekend and see what happens...

maybe it just doesn't like the new threads... or maybe there is a small hairline crack in it...

I'll take photos & post them,

Happy Easter to all :oregonian_winesmiley:

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Kinda like this (not exact)... and attached to the boats clear plastic water lines....

iyjx3r.jpg

I will prob attempt to put the old one back on this weekend and see what happens...

maybe it just doesn't like the new threads... or maybe there is a small hairline crack in it...

I'll take photos & post them,

Happy Easter to all :oregonian_winesmiley:

That fitting is just a press on fitting. When you slide the tubing into the fitting there is an o-ring that compresses around the pipe or tube. To release you hold up on the collar that on the end of the fitting that the tube or pipe is pushed into. This type of fitting is really easy to replace, if you can find the replacement. I am not sure your hardware store is going to have it. You might want to check with an RV store. My bet is the o-ring inside is bad.

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That fitting is just a press on fitting. When you slide the tubing into the fitting there is an o-ring that compresses around the pipe or tube. To release you hold up on the collar that on the end of the fitting that the tube or pipe is pushed into. This type of fitting is really easy to replace, if you can find the replacement. I am not sure your hardware store is going to have it. You might want to check with an RV store. My bet is the o-ring inside is bad.

Its not the exactle the same fitting - the end that attaches to the boats water line is different... its just such a small cramped area to work in I can't get a really good angle unless I take out the sink.... trying to avoid that...

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Its not the exactle the same fitting - the end that attaches to the boats water line is different... its just such a small cramped area to work in I can't get a really good angle unless I take out the sink.... trying to avoid that...

It is the push on type fitting with a female connection for the part that connects to the faucet. It is suppose to be 1/2 by 1/2 type fitting. To release the push on fitting from the tubing. You push in on the collar while pulling the tube out.

plumbingspeedfitrelease.jpg

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Kinda like this (not exact)... and attached to the boats clear plastic water lines....

iyjx3r.jpg

I will prob attempt to put the old one back on this weekend and see what happens...

maybe it just doesn't like the new threads... or maybe there is a small hairline crack in it...

I'll take photos & post them,

Happy Easter to all :oregonian_winesmiley:

Chaparral uses standard 1/2" PEX plumbing in our Signature cruisers. From a maintenance and repair standpoint, this makes things fairly easy as you can use standard PEX fittings available at your local home supply.

If the press on fitting under the sink is leaking, it's probably as Mike mentioned, due to the internal o-ring on the press-on side. I would recommend removing the entire fitting (using the collar to release it) first. Then, make sure there aren't any burrs or rough jagged edges on the PEX tubing. Ideally, the tubing should be cut squarely and have no ridges, extraneous plastic burrs, etc. For best results, the tubing should meet the internal "shoulder" of the press on fitting squarely--angled cuts increase the likelihood of o-ring leaks. If things look good on the PEX end, reattach the press-on fitting, ensuring even, straight-on pressure is used to seat the tube in the fitting. A slight tug should confirm your attachment.

For the threaded side of the connection, teflon tape should be used on the male threads before carefully threading the fixture supply line onto the press-on fitting (threaded side).

In the worst case, you can replace the press-on fitting with one from Lowe's that will set you back about 5 deer. Home Depot only carries heavy-weight, solid brass press-on fittings (Shark-Bite brand in our area).

You can fix this---save the plumber money for the TV inverter (see other thread) :D.

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Chaparral uses standard 1/2" PEX plumbing in our Signature cruisers. From a maintenance and repair standpoint, this makes things fairly easy as you can use standard PEX fittings available at your local home supply.

If the press on fitting under the sink is leaking, it's probably as Mike mentioned, due to the internal o-ring on the press-on side. I would recommend removing the entire fitting (using the collar to release it) first. Then, make sure there aren't any burrs or rough jagged edges on the PEX tubing. Ideally, the tubing should be cut squarely and have no ridges, extraneous plastic burrs, etc. For best results, the tubing should meet the internal "shoulder" of the press on fitting squarely--angled cuts increase the likelihood of o-ring leaks. If things look good on the PEX end, reattach the press-on fitting, ensuring even, straight-on pressure is used to seat the tube in the fitting. A slight tug should confirm your attachment.

For the threaded side of the connection, teflon tape should be used on the male threads before carefully threading the fixture supply line onto the press-on fitting (threaded side).

In the worst case, you can replace the press-on fitting with one from Lowe's that will set you back about 5 deer. Home Depot only carries heavy-weight, solid brass press-on fittings (Shark-Bite brand in our area).

You can fix this---save the plumber money for the TV inverter (see other thread) :D.

Hmmmm...this is good news...hopefully we can fix this ourselves!! Thanks for the advice!

And I just want to check...it IS recommended to use teflon tape on the threaded side (metal) even though the fitting is plastic?

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There is also a paste Teflon (sometimes called pipe dope) that I prefer. Messier then tape but gets in all he threads is better at lubrication and sealing.

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Hmmmm...this is good news...hopefully we can fix this ourselves!! Thanks for the advice!

And I just want to check...it IS recommended to use teflon tape on the threaded side (metal) even though the fitting is plastic?

Generally speaking, unless it's a fitting that's not designed to to seal on the threads, you need to use teflon tape. This includes fittings having NPT (pipe threads), etc. It strictly excludes flare/inverted flare fittings, etc. where the seal is created on a surface area in the fitting that is *not* constituted by the threads.

If there's a rubber flat washer in the female threaded fitting, the seal relies on that (think about standard water hose connections) and you should omit the tape. However, if there's no such washer, you definitely need teflon tape (or alternative) for the threads to properly form a watertight seal.

Let me know how it goes...

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Hmmm...I don't think CJ used any teflon tape. For some reason I thought that you didn't use teflon tape when it is plastic joining to metal...

That right there might be the reason for the leak.

Maybe we just need to take it apart again and add some teflon tape?

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Hmmmm...this is good news...hopefully we can fix this ourselves!! Thanks for the advice!

And I just want to check...it IS recommended to use teflon tape on the threaded side (metal) even though the fitting is plastic?

It is not suppose to be required with those type of fittings. If I was going to be the tape on it, would not use very much. With too much tape it could crack the fitting.

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It is not suppose to be required with those type of fittings. If I was going to be the tape on it, would not use very much. With too much tape it could crack the fitting.

I agree. Normally, you wouldn't need any tape. But, from the installation manual for the faucet, I see that there are 2 additional nipples included that appear (from the crude line drawing) to step the tubing size up to 1/2" (probably from 3/8") and also change the gender of the connection from female (which likely has a captive rubber washer) to male (which would assume he has a captive washer in his press on fitting--or needs to use tape/dope).

So, the question becomes:

Are you using the nipples provided with the faucet to interface with your press on fitting? If not, no tape/dope should be needed...leak is probably from the press-on side o-ring as the other poster mentioned earlier.

Also, the fact that you noted only one side of the supply is leaking, if tape/dope was needed and you plumbed them the same, both should/would probably leak similarly...

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Alright! It's all been sorted out! We spend all day today working on our baby...and finally figured out those friggin' faucets.

First, here is a picture of the actual fittings installed on our Chap...

IMG_4283800x600.jpg

IMG_4282800x600.jpg

IMG_4277800x600.jpg

Turns out..these things are almost impossible to remove...so we ended up cutting the water line and installing new fittings.

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After removing the one fitting that was leaking...we discovered that the fitting was missing a very important o-ring...which was the reason it was leaking. We also came to the conclusion that this o-ring must have been missing for quite a while since the c-clamps and faucet that we removed was extremely rusty...which would lead one to think that this fitting had been leaking for quite a while.

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Here are a few pics of the new faucet installed....and now with NO LEAKS...yay!!

IMG_4295800x600.jpg

IMG_4296800x600.jpg

IMG_4297800x600.jpg

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Glad problem is resolved. New hardware looks good.

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you fixed it yourself and cheated your mechanic out of making some money? You should be ashamed!

Of course I am just kidding! Great job on both the work you did and saving some deer!

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you fixed it yourself and cheated your mechanic out of making some money? You should be ashamed!

Of course I am just kidding! Great job on both the work you did and saving some deer!

Thanks Dox....

its kinda fun learning how to do this stuff.... and not having to send every little problem to the mechanic... ( I think we've put his 1st kid thru college.... with the $$ we've spent with him ;) )

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an old thread, woke up from the dead.

My Fontana faucets started leaking as mentioned in the beginning of this thread and here's how I fixed them. The insides valve portion of the cartridge is ceramic and crumbles after age (see the first picture, the left cartridge). Mine was from 2003. 

 

<a href="http://s1266.photobucket.com/user/drapaki/media/IMG_6198_zpstyfm0hog.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj522/drapaki/IMG_6198_zpstyfm0hog.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_6198_zpstyfm0hog.jpg"/></a>

The manufacturer of the cartridges (at least currently) is a company named Donner. I found a supplier in South Carolina that sells them for about 22 deer each, 8 for shipping and they were to my door within a few days. https://www.fdsupply.com/

You'll need a cold and hot (they turn different). Here are the part numbers:

<a href="http://s1266.photobucket.com/user/drapaki/media/IMG_6207_zpsic7mlieh.png.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj522/drapaki/IMG_6207_zpsic7mlieh.png" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_6207_zpsic7mlieh.png"/></a>

and here's what they look like compared to the old one, which is in the middle.

<a href="http://s1266.photobucket.com/user/drapaki/media/IMG_6206_zpsjstqwbu4.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj522/drapaki/IMG_6206_zpsjstqwbu4.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_6206_zpsjstqwbu4.jpg"/></a>

 

This was half the price that Ferguson's plumbing quoted. half!

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