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Tanhands

Drilling holes?

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I know this may be a stupid questions but, I need to install my new Bilge Pump. It has these little holes and some self tapping screws. The old one was screwed into the bottom of the boat Under the engine. Does it have to be Under the engine or anywhere back there is fine? And here comes the really dumb one, is screwing the little self tapping screws into the fiberglass in the engine compartment going to cause me a problem. I am guessing that it is double hulled so those little screws are not going through to the out side. But I figured I should ask to make sure. That's sorta one of those things I don't want to find out the hard way that I am wrong about.

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The only dumb questions are the ones not asked that leave you with screws sticking through the bottom of the boat! I'd put the new pump back in the old one's location, using the same length screws as provided by the factory. If they're stripped, you could go a little large in diameter, but keep the length the same.

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The little plastic tray that clips to the bottom of the pump and has the screws in it broke. It was very brittle. So the next question is how do I get the old screws out and the new ones in. It is right under the the engine so I can not use any thing longer than a Shorty Screwdriver and can not see what I am doing. I may not even be able to get to them with a screwdriver. My arm doesn't bend in a direction to make this really doable. That is why I was wondering if I could move it out a little. I may not be able to pump that last inch out but that can be done with the plug at the end of the day. a couple inches won't sink it.

And although I know that the only dumb question is one you don't ask, I have heard some questions that just make yo shake your head and wonder.

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OK so I ended up using a All purpose Glue made by Gorilla. We shall see how it works but I am very optimistic that it will hold. It held my fingers together rather well.

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The hull in the bigle area is very think and you can use little short screws to hold the pump in place. It can be moved some, just so long as it still gets most of the water. Also I don't believe the hull is a double hull, believe it is solid. Just don't use really long screws!

4-10starboard-1.jpg

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Glue held great. Pump Works Great. And I was able to get the fingers unglued. My Gran used to tell me what was worth doing would probably take a long time and not really be worth it in the end. Some of the applies here.

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Good to know. I have to add a float switch to the bilge pump and did not want to screw it to the floor.

The pump is on an L bracket that keeps it up off the bottom about 1/2 inch.

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On 7/6/2010 at 8:31 PM, mpm330 said:

The hull in the bigle area is very think and you can use little short screws to hold the pump in place. It can be moved some, just so long as it still gets most of the water. Also I don't believe the hull is a double hull, v tight gel side effects believe it is solid. Just don't use really long screws!

4-10starboard-1.jpg

how screws hole on ship?

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On 7/5/2010 at 9:30 PM, Tanhands said:

OK so I ended up using a All purpose Glue made by Gorilla. We shall see how it works but I am very optimistic that it will hold. It held my fingers together rather well.

I used 3M's 5000 fast setting for that. Its been 5 years and still holding the pump in place. 

Is this a replacement pump, or are you just adding a 2nd pump?  You did mention as to where to place the pump There are few school of thoughts on this, thats why I am asking.

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On ‎7‎/‎6‎/‎2010 at 11:31 AM, mpm330 said:

The hull in the bigle area is very think and you can use little short screws to hold the pump in place. It can be moved some, just so long as it still gets most of the water. Also I don't believe the hull is a double hull, believe it is solid. Just don't use really long screws!

4-10starboard-1.jpg

LMFAO! :haha-7383::clapsmiley:That's hilarious, Mike.  Whoever did that is the leader of The Clownage Emporium LOL!

Reminds me of a similar situation that happened on one of my projects.  Brand new custom house with a really elaborate kitchen (this was many years ago before LED lighting was the new fad) and the homeowner wanted to use his electrician on the job to give him the work so he would be happy and not hold it against him and asked me if I minded.  I told him that we would have to put a clause in the contract that I will manage the quality of his work to the best of my ability but I couldn't guarantee it nor will be responsible for his workmanship and that he would need to have a separate contract for the electrical work straight with the homeowoner.  Guess what, thank goodness I did that because after we installed all the kitchen cabinets, he went to install all the undercabinet lighting but didn't check the thickness of the bottom of the cabinet and used the 3/4" screws that came in the light packaging.  The bottoms were 5/8" thick lmao.  Worst, is that after putting one or two screws in, he should've checked the inside of the cabinet just to be sure before continuing but he didn't even do that.  Just blasted something like 70-80 screws all through the bottoms of all the upper cabinets looool.  The homeowner was embarrassed and the guy did it after hours when I wasn't there, otherwise I would've jumped all over him before he even started.

Cabinet co. had to send new, cherry veneers for all the inside bottoms and we had to glue them on to cover all the through-holes. :D 

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When in doubt fiberglass/glue/ contact cement a block of starboard/ plywood/ plexiglass to the  bilge area and mount your screws there.

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Water / any areas.  I dry with a hair drier carefully. Then a paper towel wetted with Acetone.  Then any G E     R T V small dabs.  Press down. check after 5 minutes for still in place.

RTV can be ripped off of most surfaces. I always do bilges with the pump connected. Wire & hose.  Stops those nasty add wire & hose jobs.

 

July 5, 2010...……….:haha-7383:          :beat-dead-horse:          :clapsmiley:

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