uk kid

starter motor problems

13 posts in this topic

Hi all,

I purchased 1997 chaparral 1820 4.3 lx vortec 2bb.(engine serial number begins OK) with starter motor bolts broken. ( ebay special) be warned.

Manage to drill out broken bolt. re-fitted starter but kept jamming and starter would move up and down when it did crank. then found out water in bores, yes cracked block. bought recon engine, new manifolds, risers & special elbows.( it had one piece manifolds no longer available). first 10 -20 times engine would start ok. Then starter got noisy and yet again moved up and down when cranking engine, then jammed turned crank manualy freed it off, but turn key and it jammed. I know there are 14" & 14.5" flywheels would incorrect starter be the problem I`m told it was for 14.5". I have no idea which flywheel is fitted.( it`s the original one )

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Incorrect starter would do it. So would incorrect starter bolts. Most Mercruiser starters use special knurled bolts which keep the starters in position. Hy

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If your boat engine has the original flywheel, the correct starter is Mercury part # 50-863007A1, and new bolt numbers are 10-805343-2. Installing new bolts would be a start, especially if you have the new small style planetary gear type starter.

'96-'97 MerCruiser 4.3LX Starter link

http://www.marinepartsplus.com/catalog/mercruiser/serial/4.3LX_GEN_plus_2_BBL._GM_262_V-6_1996-1997/809969+96/1937-10#806964A3_jump

'96-'97 MerCruiser 4.3LX Flywheel and crank

http://www.marinepartsplus.com/catalog/mercruiser/serial/4.3LX_GEN_plus_2_BBL._GM_262_V-6_1996-1997/809969+96/1937-170

You may be forced to pull the engine to take a look at which flywheel you have, or at the very least find the block code in an effort to find out which size of flywheel was used. Irregardless of year, the only starter option for a 4.3L is the latest model 2 offset long bolt 50-863007a1.

You wouldn't still be having hydraulic lock issues from water intrusion by chance?

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Hi, my block is 090. with staggered bolt configuration. removed plugs no water problem, cold starting was ok originaly but once warm / hot ( not overheating ) found turning over slow ( timming ??).let engine cool down would turn over again. tried adjusting distributor but did not make any difference. is Firing order 165432 clockwise. The bolts are have shank on them which on old and new starters which seemed to long, as shank could be seen when bolt was placed in starter hole so bought another 2 new ones and they were the same. I was told this year model does not use shims, so put washers on bolts before placing them in starter.

Boat is 1930 model not 1820. starter jams now will remove. supplier told me to return it.

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Welcome to the forum uk kid . We are glad you are here and believe that you will find answers to a lot of your questions. We also provide some humor, of course at no charge to you other than the initiation fee you paid to join this forum ;)

A few pointers for you to do (if you have not already done so) to help us help you:

1. By clicking on your name in the upper right corner to bring up your options select my profile to add into your signature your location (geographic area).

2. Also under your signature add the type of boat you have and its mechanical systems, such as boat type, engine, drives, etc. This way you don't have to type it into to every post you put up. This will help us help you a lot! Without it, you may not get any answers.

3. Use the Search feature in the top right corner of the forum. There is a lot of good information on this forum that will answer many of your questions. We have a lot of experts here with a large amount of life experience.

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Thanks for info. if I counted flywheel teeth would I then know flywheel size ?.

The bolts fitted were new & nurled type, but why should I have to pack bolt with washers to stop nurled section protruding out of starter. there length is 3-9/16 from head to thread section. starter casing width 3-1/4

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Those starter bolts should tighten down flush with the starter. The only reason I can think of for them not doing that is that there is something in the bottom of the mounting holes preventing the bolts from going in all the way. Your measurements only give the bolts 5/16" of thread to lock in. That should be enough. I hate to say this, but I think your engine may have to come out so that you can see what's really happening with the starter mounting. Something isn't right. Sorry. Hy

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The 5/16 is the nurled part protruding out from starter + 3/4" of thread. so when tightening bolts they screw in 3/4 and stop because of nurled section, hence 5/16 gap between block and starter face. will take photo and post it later.

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Photo attached of bolt showing nurled section protruding. or should this be screwed fully in block. hence damaging thread in block ?

post-8768-1282550000_thumb.jpg

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Based on that photo, you either have the wrong starter or the wrong bolts. Check the numbers Shepherd posted earlier. He's one of the experts here on the engines. If you've got the right starter, then you definitely have the wrong bolts. You may have the long bolts from the Mercruiser starters from the 1980s, which, I believe were longer. I suggest you bring the starter with you to the dealer when you buy new bolts. The knurled part of the bolts must be completely within the starter housing. Good luck. Hy

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