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sunesta233crestwoodKY

Poll - fix trailer spindle or new axle

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bearing or brakes engaged and blew entire hub in half, threw tire / hub / brakes / bearings, etc. Thank God it was in the neighborhood. I had 4 people look at these attached pics or in person and gotten 4 different opinions.

Anyone had trailer spindles successfully put back on or even resurfaced w emory cloth? I'm getting mixed opinions - obviously I'd rather not spend $440 + freight to get a new EZ loader axle here, but not sure I feel completely comfortable towing my family around if there's any doubt a welded (w/ aligner) spindle won't hold. I'm dropping the axle in the meantime and taking it to a couple trailer shops to get their opinions. Need some help / suggestions. thanks, Mike

post-8435-12884E+9_thumb.jpg

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Personally, I would feel alot better going down the interstate at 65-70 mph or a small Kentucky road knowing I had a new Axle under my boat. That woud be a disaster if it broke off!! I know it's alot of money but my family's safty is worth more :beer-7687-1:

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I agree with Seasaw, a new axle is a must. If I were you, I would also seriously re-examine my maintenance schedule and procedure. That kind of break is indicative of neglected bearings. A trailer axle takes quite a beating. It needs to be looked after. Bearings must be cleaned and repacked at least once a season. Seals need to be replaced regularly. Bearing Buddies will help keep the bearings safe, but even they have to be greased regularly. You made one mistake, poor maintenance; please don't repeat the mistake with a repair. We want you and your family around as members of this forum and of life - replace the axle and treat it well. Hy

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Get a new spindle and take it to a welding shop and have a certified welder install it. How do you thing the spindle got on a new axle it was..."WELDED ON"!!!!!!

+1 on the maintenance program, it doesn’t matter how new the axle or spindles are they will fail every time without proper care.

Dave

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I would need to see more pics at diff. angles to say for sure, emery cloth is out of the question. a good welder could cut the old hub off and weld on a new one, if the boat is on the trailer you would have to remove the brakes and bearings and axle and take it to them, unless the boat is not on the trailer, I would not want weld flash even having a chance of hitting my gel coat. by the time you add the price of the spindle and LABOR, it won't be a cheap fix. I would also check the other hubs and bearings, if the grease looks milky then there is water in it and needs to be changed to prevent this from happening again.

make sure you use a good water proof trailer wheel bearing grease. here is a video, hope it helps.

http://www.etrailer....b_bearings.aspx

me personally,I would buy the new axle, 400 is a good price, I would install it and get oil baths instead of the grease filled bearings. changing an axle is not difficult, air tools make it easier,if not sure about the brakes, go to the MFG's website and download a manual, would also bleed the brakes when your done and make sure all air is purged.now you basically got 2 new spindles, probably for the price of one.:Twocents:

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thanks for the feedback. taking the axle to a trailer place now to see what they think. FYI - i know the bearings need to be packed each year - I just got the boat from an individual late July this year, had it winterized and was trailering to put up for the year. would have maintenanced the trailer prior to next season.

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$400 seems way high for a new axle. When you call the trailer shops or even marinas, that is what they typically charge. I would try to find a six robblees or specific trailer only parts shop and see what they want for the appropriate axle. I agree with tho others though that you can just as easily weld on a new spindle, that is how the one that is on it now was applied. I would guess you could pick up a new spindle for around 100 deer and then take the axle off and take both to a good welder and they would probably charge you another 100 bucks and you would be good as new. Clean the unit up, shoot it with some rattle can paint and reassemble. I would not try to fix what you have though.

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Wow 400 deer seem way expensive, most replacement axels are in the 150-170 deer range. Spending big dollars does not always equate to a good repair, It's all in perspective good parts and trained certified mechanics. Most trailer manufactures do not custom make their axles...they purchase them just like you and I can. Your axle is nothing special, just need to find the correct length, and hub/LBS rating. If you purchase a replacement axle from a trailer shop, they will still have to weld the spring connector place in the correct position. Boat trailers are not as precise as one would think, they are built in a jig to make everything plumb and square. You are not talking a car alignment type precision, no camber or caster...just square. Look at a trailer with tandem axles when you back it into the driveway or make a tight turn...the tires and axles crab, or almost slide sideways. This is the main cause of boat trailer premature tire wear and why you dont get 30-40k tire life. Tires, Hubs, Bearing, Brakes, Wheels are nothing to cut corners on!!!! This is why the manufactures over build everything...product liability. Boat trailers are build to about 150%, a new axle does not guarantee you won't have a spring or bolt break, or tire blowout. All you can do is fix it correctly, and practice good maintenance, and tow it safely

Dave.

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No fun losing a wheel! I am curious as to what the axle places are going to say, because the axle doesnt look that bad to me..from a distance. My understanding is the spindle is just the carrier for the inner wheel bearings, the balls move on the inner wheel bearing so unless the axle is so scored the inner bearing is not held tightly there is no real need for it to be "polished". I am curious if anyone else agrees....

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I'm happy to hear others think $400 is way to high for a new axle! There are several places in Louisville that have trailer axles and do repairs when googled. Maybe there's a really good reason, but why wouldn't any good quality axle replace what you've got?

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oops, should have asked what type of axle. 200 for a regular and 400 for a torsion axle are about average, keep forgetting there are still leaf springs in this world and

seems on a lot of trailers there holding up better.

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No fun losing a wheel! I am curious as to what the axle places are going to say, because the axle doesnt look that bad to me..from a distance. My understanding is the spindle is just the carrier for the inner wheel bearings, the balls move on the inner wheel bearing so unless the axle is so scored the inner bearing is not held tightly there is no real need for it to be "polished". I am curious if anyone else agrees....

That is what I was thinking too.

My spindles bolt onto the axle tubes, are you sure yours do not too?

That looks like what those 4 bolts around the sides do.

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thanks again for the feedback - the $436 that I was quoted was from EZ Loader spring axle with drums, backing plates, brakes, bearings, etc preassembled and ready to mount. + $200 for freight from Midway AR to Louisville KY.

I will wait and see what the trailer place says about the condition of the spindle (FYI the race was stuck on it - would not pull off so I know there is some damage where the bearings ride).

Option 2 for me at this point is let a certified welder weld a new spindle on and purchase brake drum bearing kit and install myself.

I am out on business for a week but will post after that and let you know an update.

thanks, Mike

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Good luck, whatever you decide. And my apologies for seemingly coming down on you a little too hard concerning your maintenance. I should have considered the possibility that the trailer was new to you. Safe boating. Hy

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Your mechanism of failure looks to be a simple bearing disintegration. Your additional damage I fear happened after the fact. Your not showing us enough detail to make a decision about the sensibility of a repair, as the inner race from the inside bearing is still on the shaft, and the outer bearing mounting surface does not indicate heating (bluing) as a result of a spun race attempting to weld itself on to the spindle.

First of all I would not pull the axle as I would attempt a repair in place. Closely examine the shaft hub for signs of heating (blue color) or gouges in the bearing mounting areas. Remove the inner race (part of the failed inside bearing) and examine the shaft for roundness and whether or not the ring had actually spun on the shaft. Remember that the inner races should remain stationary during operation. If the surfaces are true and clean, then file off any nicks in the adjacent areas, check the surface that the seal rides on and buy a new bearing set to test fit on the shaft. If they slip on snug and don’t wobble when seated then the spindle is fine.

That’s half of the issue. The hub (rotating assembly) must also have the failed outer races removed and be checked in the same manner. By the one picture looks like a simple bearing failure which may require some heat to remove the inner race. Simple enough to check and if the shaft is true and shows no excessive wear from excessive heat or mechanical contact, it’s should be an easy save. A shop or any good mechanic could make that evaluation in 10 minutes. Again, I would use this same process for older cars with failed front wheel bearings on a steering axle. It’s either good or it’s not.

W

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