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ken226

Bought a 2000 Chaparral 200 SSE with no engine or drive

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I was browsing Craigslist and came across a boat that seemed like a smokin deal, so i went and picked it up. Its a bank repo 2000 Chaparral 200SSE open bow. The hull is in awesome condition with no chips or scrapes, the gelcoat was a little oxidized but it buffed out real easily. The transom and floor are beautiful, like new. The interior vinyl is faded and deteriorated a little but not cracking yet. I think i'll clean it up and armor-all it for now, then have it recovered later.

The big problem with the boat is that a previous owner decided to steal the engine and drive before the bank came to get it, which is why I got it for $1400.00. It seemed like a great price to me, but i don't know much about boats so hopefully i didn't get hosed.

It came originally with a Volvo Penta 5.0GL engine and drive, but thats all gone now so im not sure what I should put back in it. It still has all the guages, steering and shifting cables, electrical and wiring. It also still has the inner and outer transom plates, power steering and tilt pumps, hydraulic steering ram, trim rams and engine mounts, exhaust manifolds, risers, bellows and Y-pipe.

I was thinking there are a few ways I could go. Either buy a 350 or 305 engine, and then start replacing the Volvo gimbal housing and outdrive with ebay parts or sell all the Volvo parts on ebay and repower with a Mercruiser?

Which would be the least costly route?

I've heard that some OMC/Cobra transom gimbal parts might bolt up to my existing Volvo transom plate, anyone know which years/models?

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from the pics she looks nice- hang in here a few days and you will have some knowledgeable experts provide the information you are seeking.

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Well....my guess is you'll know a lot more about boats when you get done with this project. ;)

Marine mechanicals (engines & drives) make up the largest portion of cost on most boats. So in order to keep the investment reasonable, try and find some connections for decent used stuff and do the work yourself. Being very lucky is a good thing too! :D

Best of luck with it.

(Maybe look for another wrecked boat with a good power-pack) :huh:

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(Maybe look for another wrecked boat with a good power-pack) :huh:

+1 Start calling salvage yards. Just make sure you get the correct gear ratio in the drive.

I would stay away from OMC "OUTDATED MARINE CORPORATION" IMO

Looks like a nice boat tho.

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You can buy new. Sticking with Volvo would mean that all of the existing parts could be kept. Maybe consider a used engine/drive. Not too hard to put back together.

brick

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Maybe you can find a wrecked boat on Craigslist that has a good motor/drive?

brick

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Maybe you can find a wrecked boat on Craigslist that has a good motor/drive?

brick

+1! I'd try this route first.

I didn't think Merc & Volvo drives shared the same transom cut-out?

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Pretty sure the Volvo transom hole is bigger, meaning it would probably be possible to go from MerCruiser to Volvo, but not easily or cost effective to go the other way. I don't know the sizing for certain, but believe it to be true.

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See if you can track down the previous owner and purchase the engine and parts back for a reasonable price.

But then you'd be purchasing stolen goods and that is never a good thing.......

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Some good suggestions, if it was me I would stick with the Volvo. It will be much easier to install.

Welcome to the forum ken226 . We are glad you are here and believe that you will find answers to a lot of your questions. We also provide some humor, of course at no charge to you other than the initiation fee you paid to join this forum ;)

A few pointers for you to do (if you have not already done so) to help us help you:

1. By clicking on your name in the upper right corner to bring up your options select my profile to add into your signature your location (geographic area).

2. Also under your signature add the type of boat you have and its mechanical systems, such as boat type, engine, drives, etc. This way you don't have to type it into to every post you put up. This will help us help you a lot! Without it, you may not get any answers.

3. Use the Search feature in the top right corner of the forum. There is a lot of good information on this forum that will answer many of your questions. We have a lot of experts here with a large amount of life experience.

4. Take a minute to review our Terms of Service, again right corner. There is good information in there that you will want to know including that we cannot discuss pricing. But read some of our other posts on here to learn the work around for that. ;)

5. We like pictures a lot! So when you get a chance, post some pics of your ride. Read through this thread to learn more about how to do so.

6. Take some time to look through the Help (upper right corner) and > Info Center) located under Chaparral Boats Forum on the main page. From there you will find parts guides, brochures, manuals, specifications, canvas installation manuals, vinyl care information, square gauge setup, weather links, computer desktop backgrounds, etc. Lots of good stuff there for you and your Chaparral!

7. Come back early and often to post. We are a community of friendly and some of us are border-line psychotic. But we admit to it and that's the first step to recovery ;)

Again, welcome to the asylum/forum and we look forward to more from you. Don't be a stranger.

:thl_speedboat:

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Welcome to the group.... :oregonian_winesmiley:

If it was me I would find a rebuilt Volvo 5.0 with an SX.

She really cleaned up nice.

FYI Try not to use Armor-al on the boat seats it leaves them a little slippery, better to use a marine brand of vinyl cleaner.

matt

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Welcome to the group.... :oregonian_winesmiley:

If it was me I would find a rebuilt Volvo 5.0 with an SX.

She really cleaned up nice.

FYI Try not to use Armor-al on the boat seats it leaves them a little slippery, better to use a marine brand of vinyl cleaner.

matt

Thanks for the advice guys, I would definitely prefer this route, the volvo parts i already have are in great shape, no corrosion at all. Might cost a little more and take longer, but alot easier.

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There are some websites selling insurance salvage boats. Wrecks, dry storage fire and smoke damage, storm damage.

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There are some websites selling insurance salvage boats. Wrecks, dry storage fire and smoke damage, storm damage.

Does anyone know, will a Cobra SX drive attach and function properly to a Volvo Penta gimbal housing? What are the differences if any?

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Does anyone know, will a Cobra SX drive attach and function properly to a Volvo Penta gimbal housing? What are the differences if any?

I don't know the answer but no matter what you do, be sure before you spend any dough.

Typically, mix and match doesn't work very well.

Cheers.

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I bought this off ebay, it will be here tuesday:

CobraSX.jpg?t=1295671383

Is there supposed to be a gasket between this drive unit and the pivot housing? Theres and O-ring around the raw water pickup that implies no gasket, and I don't see any evidence of there having been a gasket there before. Also, theres no boot or bellows over the shift cable, where it enters the drive, also implying that water is expected to enter.

My engine is almost finished too :banana2: , I'll post a pic of it tomorrow.

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DSC06365.jpg?t=1295672742

It's a 5.7 liter L98 from a 1987 Iroc-Z Camaro. It came with a Lingenfelter hydraulic roller cam, which I kept in the engine. I put a Carter AFB 625cfm carb, Accel Supercoil, Accel plugs, Accel wires, Accel Distributor, Edelbrock RPM Air Gap dual plane intake, and replaced all the bolts with stainless steel bolts. I'm not really looking for alot of horsepower, but it should have enough to get a wakeboarder up.

Obviously it still need alot of stuff, but by parting out my Ducati race bike, i'm making enough to cover it.

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Dude that engine looks sweet.

But there is a little difference between a marine set-up engine than a street set-up. You might want to rethink that engine ie; Marine engines run at a constant rpm while street engines are constantly changing rpm's. The guts are a little different, I cannot give you the specifics but other will chime in.

matt

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I think... different: cam, freeze plugs, distributor, ignition system, starter, alternator.

The experts will be around soon to add to that or correct. :)

also..

You will need to add to your carb a marine flame arrester (basically a metal air filter).

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I think... different: cam, freeze plugs, distributor, ignition system, starter, alternator.

The experts will be around soon to add to that or correct. :)

also..

You will need to add to your carb a marine flame arrester (basically a metal air filter).

I've been trying to do my homework as best i can. Every part ive put on the engine has been given a thumbs up by one "expert" or another, not that thats a gaurantee. I have a friend from San Diego who has alot of boating experience, and i fire the occasional email to marine performance shops for advice, not to mention various internet forums.

The accel supercoil is fine according to Arizona Speed and Marine and Vic Hubbard Marine, but i might buy a marine HEI anyway.

Im definitely sticking with a marine starter, water pump and alternator.

The lingenfelter cam, i have no idea if its ok for marine use, but it came with the engine and its supposed to have a smoothe idle for computer controlled engines. If its not ok, i can change out a cam pretty easily. The Carter AFB is a marine carb, or was advertised as such anyway. Im pretty sure the crankshaft, con rods and pistons are the same, car or marine. Even though i'll never be in saltwater, only Arizona lakes, I changed out the steel freeze plugs with brass ones anyway. Im using the power steering pump and exhaust system that came with the boat. Im going to use a K&N marine flame arrestor/filter.

Hopefully everything works fine, the lakes here in AZ are pretty clean, no brackish or saltwater to be found.

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It had to hurt a little to part out the Ducati. :(

It might pay to do some more digging on the cam. :unsure:

There's quite a different with marine applications, both for power band location and valve timing to ensure the engine isn't prone to injest water through the exhaust. That could be a bad thing.

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I know some of you guys are knocking the choice of a car engine, but from what I know about gm motors, the L98 would be a great boat engine. What '80s cars lacked in horsepower, they made up for in torque. The L98 was never a killer on the quarter mile, but from what I hear, they were unbeatable in the eighth mile (from it's low end torque). I think with a few modifications, this will be a great boat motor. I mean let's face it, most mercruiser engines are just Chevrolet truck and car engines. Check out the valve train specs for an LS1 Corvette motor and then look at the specs for a merc 350 mag. You might be surprised by the similarities. I'm excited to see how this is going to work out!

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Nice rides! I am still new to the boating hobby and I am saving up to buy me a new boat. If in case I came short on funds, a used one will do. At least I have something to work on during the weekends. I envy you guys for having such awe-aspiring boats. You'll never know, I'll be posting one of my own in the near future! =)

Earl Sharp

I'm sure if you sell enough blenders there Earl, you'll have a nice new big boat soon. ;)

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