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206 SSi

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21 minutes ago, Quag said:

Thanks.  Will the size make a difference?  Right now it is a 15 inch prop.  Seems big to me.  

There's a joke there somewhere . . . 

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15" is pretty large, never mind(I'm not taking the bait Futzin, but I'm finding it difficult to resist)

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On 4/26/2018 at 9:26 PM, Quag said:

Thanks.  Will the size make a difference?  Right now it is a 15 inch prop.  Seems big to me.  

15" is probably referring to the prop diameter? Diameter sizing goes down as pitch sizing goes up. I find pitch is more important that diameter.

Just wanting to confirm; this is the 206 SSi WT that you had been looking at initially with an engine running problem - believe it had a 19" stainless steel prop on it? If so, they did a tune up and then installed a 17" aluminum prop, said the problem was fixed, but you're now finding boat is still not making proper power and RPM?

Should the above be correct, then I think the engine has a mechanical issue, quite possibly fuel related that is causing the engine to not reach full RPM and power potential. (you had mentioned the fuel pump is whining) Unless you're boating at a high elevation, I'm thinking the original 19" pitch prop was correctly sized.

For fuel related problems, I like to start with the basics.

- checking to make sure the fuel pump harness has a good, clean connection - they partially fall off easily enough when the engine is being serviced

- running the engine on an outboard fuel tank with fresh fuel that is preferably 6 gallons in size and then plumbing the fuel line directly to the fuel pump on the engine. NOTE: Working with fuel is dangerous. Great care needs to be taken to prevent the outboard fuel tank hose from becoming entangled in the serpentine belt, or being pinched off from the engine hatch, etc. Normally for that model I would place and secure the fuel tank in the compartment under the walk thru, being very careful regarding fuel vapours. (running the bilge blower motor the entire time) I say 6 gallons as the engine doesn't run very long on this amount of fuel when performing higher speed test runs. This test isolates the anti-siphon valve, fuel pick up and fuel line to the engine.

- perform a fuel pressure test (this requires proper tools and expertise) 

Ethanol fuel could be the culprit, as it goes skunky rather quickly and can give all sorts of engine running problems. Have seen low and high pressure fuel pumps fail. I'm just spit balling here, but my gut says the high pressure pump is not working properly. 

As my favourite YouTuber Preston Jacobs states "As always, I'm probably wrong on about half of this..."

 

https://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-explodedview-47702824-23-37360.aspx

http://www.cecilmarineonline.com/759-00-oem-volvo-fuel-pump-21608511-in-stock-ready-to-ship/

 

Image result for loose fuel pump harness volvo penta

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12 hours ago, Shepherd1 said:

15" is probably referring to the prop diameter? Diameter sizing goes down as pitch sizing goes up. I find pitch is more important that diameter.

Just wanting to confirm; this is the 206 SSi WT that you had been looking at initially with an engine running problem - believe it had a 19" stainless steel prop on it? If so, they did a tune up and then installed a 17" aluminum prop, said the problem was fixed, but you're now finding boat is still not making proper power and RPM?

Should the above be correct, then I think the engine has a mechanical issue, quite possibly fuel related that is causing the engine to not reach full RPM and power potential. (you had mentioned the fuel pump is whining) Unless you're boating at a high elevation, I'm thinking the original 19" pitch prop was correctly sized.

For fuel related problems, I like to start with the basics.

- checking to make sure the fuel pump harness has a good, clean connection - they partially fall off easily enough when the engine is being serviced

- running the engine on an outboard fuel tank with fresh fuel that is preferably 6 gallons in size and then plumbing the fuel line directly to the fuel pump on the engine. NOTE: Working with fuel is dangerous. Great care needs to be taken to prevent the outboard fuel tank hose from becoming entangled in the serpentine belt, or being pinched off from the engine hatch, etc. Normally for that model I would place and secure the fuel tank in the compartment under the walk thru, being very careful regarding fuel vapours. (running the bilge blower motor the entire time) I say 6 gallons as the engine doesn't run very long on this amount of fuel when performing higher speed test runs. This test isolates the anti-siphon valve, fuel pick up and fuel line to the engine.

- perform a fuel pressure test (this requires proper tools and expertise) 

Ethanol fuel could be the culprit, as it goes skunky rather quickly and can give all sorts of engine running problems. Have seen low and high pressure fuel pumps fail. I'm just spit balling here, but my gut says the high pressure pump is not working properly. 

As my favourite YouTuber Preston Jacobs states "As always, I'm probably wrong on about half of this..."

 

https://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-explodedview-47702824-23-37360.aspx

http://www.cecilmarineonline.com/759-00-oem-volvo-fuel-pump-21608511-in-stock-ready-to-ship/

 

Image result for loose fuel pump harness volvo penta

There was a problem of not getting to WOT.  At first they thought it was the prop (not sure what it had on originally but was stainless)  They changed the prop to a 15inch (diameter) 17p 3 blade aluminum.  Still had issues, but mechanic jumped in confirmed it was fuel.  Changed filter and pick up and resealed everything.  No issues getting to WOT now with a 17p prop (4800RPM).  Great hole shot of course, but suffers at the top end.  I am going to try a 19p prop 14.3 diameter.  Hopefully that improves top end and in my experience a 19P should give me a decent hole shot.  I saw your note about a 4 blade stainless after I ordered a 3blade.  I am sticking with aluminum though since I am on rivers quite a bit and can be debris just below surface and like the forgiveness of aluminum.  

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Quag, I have a 2009 196 SSi with the 4.3L GXi Volvo Penta setup. Mine came with the Volvo SS 19P 3-blade and would not hit WOT (only managed 4300-ish RPMs), but managed just above 50MPH given some time a the right amount of trim. For pulling skiers etc I dropped to a 4-blade 17P aluminum and this got me to WOT easily but I dropped max speed down to about 48MPH. See previous post here: http://forum.chaparralboats.com/index.php?/topic/36456-prop-advice/#comment-400664

 

To be honest, this is a great setup for cruising and general water sports and fuel economy is great, but I think for pulling serious slalom skiers with a boat load of onlookers a 5L engine would be better.

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On 5/3/2018 at 0:42 PM, Ronbill said:

Quag, I have a 2009 196 SSi with the 4.3L GXi Volvo Penta setup. Mine came with the Volvo SS 19P 3-blade and would not hit WOT (only managed 4300-ish RPMs), but managed just above 50MPH given some time a the right amount of trim. For pulling skiers etc I dropped to a 4-blade 17P aluminum and this got me to WOT easily but I dropped max speed down to about 48MPH. See previous post here: http://forum.chaparralboats.com/index.php?/topic/36456-prop-advice/#comment-400664

 

To be honest, this is a great setup for cruising and general water sports and fuel economy is great, but I think for pulling serious slalom skiers with a boat load of onlookers a 5L engine would be better.

Thanks.  I think the overall set up will be fine, however I still need to overcome the fuel issues.  Having issues after taking out first time.  Seems to be just what Shepard said, fuel pump.  Having it looked at now.  Not the way I wanted to start out with a new used boat though.

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FYI overcame the fuel issues.  Hi pressure fuel pump was shot.  Replaced entire fuel pump, seems to be running fine (know on wood, only out twice)

Now I need to track down an issue with the stereo.  Worked fine.  Out tonight and no power.  Clarion CMD7 with the stock speakers and two aftermarket in the wakeboard tower.  

 

Just read up and will try the reset button first.  However looking for fuses, dumb question but can't find a main fuse panel.  I think there is an inline fuse, plan on looking into tomorrow.  Let me know if I am missing something ie a fuse block somewhere.  I only see the three rubber buttons? by the battery switch. 

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You may have to pull the radio to find the in line fuse. Should be right there

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OK folks have had the boat out 3 times this week and runs well, but still having issues that I am not sure about. Again a 2013 206SSi with Volvo 200 in it.   The boat is new to me so hoping to get some help where to start.

1) Radio-  Thought I had this solved.  Have pressed reset and worked then stopped, pressed radio memory worked then stopped.  Lastly Sunday am got up and radio was not working, but went to start it and battery was dieing and would not kick starter over. .  Luckily had a back up since I am going to put in a dual battery switch.  Put the new battery in, radio worked great all day, turning boat on and off, battery on and off.  I had read a post somewhere stating low battery could cause the radio not to work.  So thought problem was solved.  Then this am, no battery.  Obviously  not a fuse and I thought not a loose connection after battery.  Also this morning it looked like the radio turned on (screen lit) but when I turned on blower the screen went out.  Like to know thoughts on this.  Clarion CMD7.

2) Gauges-  In general a bit off all around.  

-RPM- The "analog" or dial is off by about 900 RPM, but digital read out seems to be accurate.  Tells me it's not sender

-Trim-  Did the trim set up as in the instructions.  I can hold the trim button in the up position and it will not register until it is probably at least 10% up if not more.  

-Fuel-Fuel gauge shows me at 85% when I get off trailer after I have filled the tank.  Also showed me at 0% today but when I filled up I could only get 23.7 gallons in with a 33 gallon tank.  

I know the boat sat for bit, but is there something I should do with the gauges.  I see there is a factory reset option in set up, but not sure if I should do. Quite honestly can live with RPM and even trim, but really would like to properly read fuel when sitting still.

 

 

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19 minutes ago, Quag said:

1) Radio-  Thought I had this solved.  Have pressed reset and worked then stopped, pressed radio memory worked then stopped.  Lastly Sunday am got up and radio was not working, but went to start it and battery was dieing and would not kick starter over. .  Luckily had a back up since I am going to put in a dual battery switch.  Put the new battery in, radio worked great all day, turning boat on and off, battery on and off.  I had read a post somewhere stating low battery could cause the radio not to work.  So thought problem was solved.  Then this am, no battery.  Obviously  not a fuse and I thought not a loose connection after battery.  Also this morning it looked like the radio turned on (screen lit) but when I turned on blower the screen went out.  Like to know thoughts on this.  Clarion CMD7.

Do you a battery switch to turn off the main (only) battery?  And if so, are you turning it to "Off" before you put her away for the evening?

Your battery is draining over night.  Low battery causes a lot not to work, not just the radio.  There was just enough juice to power up the radio.  When you turned on the blowers you went below what was needed to run the radio. 

So now the task is to figure our what is draining your battery overnight.  If you have a master battery switch and you leave it "On" that would probably do it overnight.  If you are turning it "Off" then something is still pulling a charge from the battery.

Also, if your battery is a typical starting only battery, you may have damaged it's ability to hold a charge by it being drained all of the way.  If it was only once or twice, it probably is still ok but you never know.

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4 hours ago, dsmacey said:

Do you a battery switch to turn off the main (only) battery?  And if so, are you turning it to "Off" before you put her away for the evening?

Your battery is draining over night.  Low battery causes a lot not to work, not just the radio.  There was just enough juice to power up the radio.  When you turned on the blowers you went below what was needed to run the radio. 

So now the task is to figure our what is draining your battery overnight.  If you have a master battery switch and you leave it "On" that would probably do it overnight.  If you are turning it "Off" then something is still pulling a charge from the battery.

Also, if your battery is a typical starting only battery, you may have damaged it's ability to hold a charge by it being drained all of the way.  If it was only once or twice, it probably is still ok but you never know.

I do turn the battery off at night.  The only thing that is hooked directly is the bilge pump I believe, but that did not run at all.  That does make sense though as when I changed the battery the radio worked right away.   Right now everything is hooked to a deep discharge as that was going to be my second battery.  I will be buying a starting battery, but that will only be for when ignition is on.

Thoughts on what could be draining the battery when switched off?  I only know of the bilge pump.  Thanks for the quick reply btw.

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