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regit

Ignition Switch dead

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I have a 2008 Sunesta 284.

When I winterized it everything was fine. When I got it out yesterday the ignition switch is dead (no power). All other systems seem fine. Radio, rocker switches, pumps, trim, all work. Nothing that runs off the ignition switch has power. I have checked all breakers and fuses.with no success. Anyone have any ideas?

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Check to make sure someone did not flip the kill switch on the helm.

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Just curious, how did you check that "Nothing that runs off the ignition switch has power"?

Quick thought: Is the throttle in the proper position? (or perhaps it is but the internals are hosed up)?

Hope it is an easy fix.... :beer-7687-1:

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Check the main breaker on the port side front of the intake manifold.

W

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I will assume that the Ignition switch has no power to it. (easily confirmed with a 12 v bulb tester) and the gauges do not move when the switch is turned on/off..

The typical arrangement is for the ignition switch power to come from the battery cable to the starter and than go to a circuit breaker on top of the engine . From there it enters the wiring harness thru a plug connection. The harness then goes to the dash area and the hot (+) wire connects to the Ignition switch. So start at one or the other and find out where you do not have power.

As far as the "Other" stuff works, it is usually supplied by a separate RED power wire from the battery to the Battery switch and then to individual fuses or breakers. They may either be switched by the battery switch or by pass it depending.

So follow the red battery cable from the battery to the starter.A bad connection over winter could corrode. Easier check point is the big circuit breaker on top of the engine.( or on the slave solenoid next to it)

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Mine just died too. It had been acting up last year and I was going to repair/replace it. The other night, while testing my temp gauge, it worked fine. But yesterday, nothing! Not even the clock is working. But all the nav lights, interior lights are working.

The boat goes to the dealer tomorrow morning......"Here, you do it."

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I just bought this boat that's in great condition. Everything worked until we put in in OUR lake. nav lights are out, checked panel for any loose wires and now we have no power to the ignition, no clicks..nothing. gauges needles don't move either. Though the cabin, dash, trim, radio and other things have power and do work.

I've spent the last day and a half looking for a manual, eletrical schematics etc in hopes of finding where a relay, fuse etc may be for the starter. Have fuses behind the dash and they all look good.

Can anyone advise me? IT's been years since I had a boat and feel totally green. I would certainly appreciate it!

Chaparral

1990

1900SL

4.3 alpha one mercruiser

post-14476-0-81092000-1341512818_thumb.j

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I just bought this boat that's in great condition. Everything worked until we put in in OUR lake. nav lights are out, checked panel for any loose wires and now we have no power to the ignition, no clicks..nothing. gauges needles don't move either. Though the cabin, dash, trim, radio and other things have power and do work.

I've spent the last day and a half looking for a manual, eletrical schematics etc in hopes of finding where a relay, fuse etc may be for the starter. Have fuses behind the dash and they all look good.

Can anyone advise me? IT's been years since I had a boat and feel totally green. I would certainly appreciate it!

Chaparral

1990

1900SL

4.3 alpha one mercruiser

post-14476-0-81092000-1341512818_thumb.j

To Wingnut's point above, check the main engine breaker down with the slave solinoid.

Otherwise, Seloc Marine makes pretty good boat manuals specific to your Merc sterndrive, manual # 3200. I know you can get them from West Marine at their locations or on-line at selocmarine.com

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I have a 2008 Sunesta 284.

When I winterized it everything was fine. When I got it out yesterday the ignition switch is dead (no power). All other systems seem fine. Radio, rocker switches, pumps, trim, all work. Nothing that runs off the ignition switch has power. I have checked all breakers and fuses.with no success. Anyone have any ideas?

regit,

You might find the battery has enough juice to operate what your note above but not strong enough to energize your starter. Your might also check your battery teminals and your positive battery cable.

When I had a similar issue, the positive batt cable had deteriated to the point of not allowing enough amperage thru to start, yet many other low draw items operated.

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I had the same problem and after going through the whole electricxal system, I found that the resetable 50 amp sae type b fuse setting next to the PCM was bad. It didnt look like is was tripped but tested it anyway. Bypassed the fuse and everything came back on. just a very slim piece of the yellow arm was showing out of the fuse after resetting it. Was a real hassle to find but on the bright side, I learned alot about my electrical system in case I got stranded on the water somewhere!

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Soime of these winter deaths sound like corrosion.

There is a MAIN cable connector on the back of Mercruiser V8s. The thing has SPLIT pins in it to maintain tension for all engine electrics. Can cause some very odd & bitchy trouble shooting.

REMOVE ALL wires from either battery post...FIRST..........If you do NOT ?? you risk shorts thruout the engine equipment.

Then uncouple the connector at the back of the engine. I use a thin kitchen knife to VERY VERY SLIGHTLY spread each split pin a few thousndths. Just a tiny bit to cause scrubbing again to rub the oxidation away. Push the socket ALL THE WAY IN & SCREW ON THE CONNECTOR FULLY EACH TIME.

Do the reconnects several times. It is a common sore spot for goofy engine electrical problems.

Last time was a engine would go to cranking & running AS LONG AS YOU HELD THE KEY IN THE STARTER POSITION !! Release the key to run ?? engine stopped instantly....................Bad split pin was all it was.................Dealers & mechanics are making a killing on that split pin problem.

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I had the same problem and after going through the whole electricxal system, I found that the resetable 50 amp sae type b fuse setting next to the PCM was bad. It didnt look like is was tripped but tested it anyway. Bypassed the fuse and everything came back on. just a very slim piece of the yellow arm was showing out of the fuse after resetting it. Was a real hassle to find but on the bright side, I learned alot about my electrical system in case I got stranded on the water somewhere!

If you're describing the cheap, yellow-armed POS breaker that I think you are, replace it with the recently reintroduced old style fuse. I can't recall the part number, but roughly 2007 thru 2012 or so had the junk breaker. Also likes to give intermittent problems.

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Installed a new primary battery in my 2004 236 Sunesta which I have done many times. While tightening the nut on the positive terminal, the wrench touched the negative battery terminal, sparks flew and I dropped the wrench. The positive cables were on (not tight) the positive battery terminal and the ground cable was not connected. Of course there were little burned "weld" like spots on the wrench where it touched the terminals but I figured no harm no foul.

Now when I turn on my ignition, nothing, dead, no gauges, nada. I obviously zapped something, but the question is, what did I zap? I pulled the relays and the fuses on the top of the Volvo Penta 5.0 motor and nothing looked blown. Is there another fuse someplace I need to look? I can't find anything and nor anything in the manual.

Any help would be a benefit as I don't want to take it to the shop unless it's something WAY over my head. Thanks!

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