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ncsuguys

I have the dreaded ProTech 4 charger

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I have the dreaded ProTech 4 charger on my 2005 Signature 310. I plan to contact ProMariner regarding a replacement, but I have one big question. Can I use the ProNautic 1240 and not have to rewire anything?

I've read through a lot of post on this forum - THANKS for all the great information. I see that most folks are going with the ProNautic 1250 which requires heavier wiring. I would really like to avoid all the rewiring if possible !! Seems to me that the ProNautic 1240 is somewhat of a 'drop-in' part since the output specs are the same as my old unit. I can live without the extra juice from the 1250 if I can avoid all the extra work of wiring !

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Yes. You can use the modern 40 amp model. Make SURE that the one you order will charge each bank independantly to each individual bank's needs. The advantage of the 50 is more available power to the boat's 12volt systems.

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"I have the dreaded ProTech 4 charger on my 2005 Signature 310."

I am not familiar with the problems of this charger nor do I know whats currently in my boat. But since I have the same year and model, I plan to check. Can you tell me your experience?

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Basically, the charger does not look at each battery independently. Therefore, when one battery reaches full charge (almost always one of the starting batteries) the charger stops delivering charge to ALL of the batteries. If you have a larger house battery (typically a deep cell) that has been drained through normal use it will not get fully charged.

The newer charger models sense each battery independently to assure that each is fully charged.

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That's exactly right. If you plan to do any serious overnighting (especially if you have two fridges) you need a decently sized house battery (or two in parallel). This will 'size out' your house to a point that the charger will not stay in a bulk charge mode long enough for the house bank to recover. This is where the newer charger comes into play.

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The Pro Tech 1240i PLUS will be the charger of choice for you if you don't want to go to the 50 amp version. This charger has the ability to monitor each battery bank individually to make sure that all banks are properly charged. You can get away with using the factory battery charger wire harness with this model. I got the ProNautic 1250 based on the ability to upgrade the house batteries to a larger capacity at a later date. For the difference in cost, the ProNautic is almost a no brainer.

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Basically, the charger does not look at each battery independently. Therefore, when one battery reaches full charge (almost always one of the starting batteries) the charger stops delivering charge to ALL of the batteries. If you have a larger house battery (typically a deep cell) that has been drained through normal use it will not get fully charged.

The newer charger models sense each battery independently to assure that each is fully charged.

Gentlemen… and you too JB, I’m no expert on battery chargers but the user manual on the Pro Tech 4 does say that it charges individual batteries. Check page #3 What gives? :blink:

www.promariner.com/download.php?file=New_Protech-4_Owners_Manual.pdf

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Gentlemen… and you too JB, I’m no expert on battery chargers but the user manual on the Pro Tech 4 does say that it charges individual batteries. Check page #3 What gives? :blink:

www.promariner.com/download.php?file=New_Protech-4_Owners_Manual.pdf

The Pro tech 4 has OUTPUTS for three individual batteries, but it cannot charge the three batteries INDEPENDENTLY of one another. Thats the difference between the Pro Tech 4 and the Pro Tech 1240i PLUS.

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Basically, the charger does not look at each battery independently. Therefore, when one battery reaches full charge (almost always one of the starting batteries) the charger stops delivering charge to ALL of the batteries. If you have a larger house battery (typically a deep cell) that has been drained through normal use it will not get fully charged.

The newer charger models sense each battery independently to assure that each is fully charged.

Gents, It is my understanding that the purpose of the battery isolator is to solve this problem. Have you found that this is not the case?

Just an FYI, when my boat was delivered, I had a problem where my house battery was not being charged by the alternators. Turned out to be a faulty wiring with the battery isolator.

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Nope. The charger/power supply is not connected to the isolator directly. It is connected at the battery switches. The isolator works with the alternators.

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On twin engine boats the isolator allows 2 alternators to charge separate battery banks. Typically, one alternator charges 2 battery banks (usually the starting batteries) and the other alternator charges the house battery. It also isolates the alternators and battery banks from each other when charging.

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just...wow... :drinkinBuddies:

Someone cut him off!

I see now, if we had a moderator - they would be able to cut him off. I get it - the moderator should be like a bartender - "OK pal, you had one to many" or "you have gone too far - you are cut off"

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The Pro tech 4 has OUTPUTS for three individual batteries, but it cannot charge the three batteries INDEPENDENTLY of one another. Thats the difference between the Pro Tech 4 and the Pro Tech 1240i PLUS.

OOOOOH...Now I get it...I think :blink::blink::blink::blink:

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Ummm - guys I hate to burst the bubble BUT some info -

My factory ProTech 4 1240 had 10 gauge output wires.

The book states it should have had 8 gauge. So if you want to install a ProNautic 1240 or ProTech 1240i by the manufacturer's literature you should still upgrade.

So in my case I had to replace the wiring anyway and went up to a 1250. The 120vac input wiring was 10 gauge from factory. You need at least 12 gauge for a 1250 (16 amps max draw) - so it was already oversized and did not require replacement.

Please use the SEARCH option of this board and type in "ProNautic". You can read all about the experience.

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Fred is correct. I don't know why Chaparal used 10 gauge on the factory charger harness, with the long run from the charger to the switch panel back down to the batteries.

When I installed the 1250, I knew that the AC wiring was sufficient, and originally wired the outputs to the factory charging harness. I have since rewired the charger with 8 gauge wire directly to the batteries. I know that the ABYC states that a 50 amp circuit should have 6 gauge wire, but I think that is a little overkill. My longest run of 8 gauge is less than 3 feet, which results in extremely low resistance and virtually no voltage loss.

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...or significant heat, which is the ABYC safety issue. Resistance=energy loss transferred out as heat which in excess can ignite a FIRE. I'm sure 8 awg at 3' is plenty fine.

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