CaptScott

Corsa water leak at actuator

11 posts in this topic

Splashed the boat on Saturday and ran it appx 40 miles up tho Potomac. Boat ran great no problems except:

At idle I have a steady drip (about one drip every 1.5 seconds) out of both of my captains call (quick and quiet?) exhaust actuators. Water leaks into the bilge. Was surprised this is happening on both... Any ideas or should I just get on the phone with Corsa?

Thanks,

Scott

the image is rotated 90 degrees. Photobucket is fighting me this morning...

exhaust2_zpsaf8bb25c.jpg

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Just called Corsa. 168 deers for the rebuild kit which includes both sides. Will do a write-up on replacement once I get them in.


Edit: bummed this was not discovered on survey and sea trial.

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Hello,

No need to do that. Your bell crank o-rings are leaking. Remove the bell crank ( yes you have to disassemble the exhaust ) replace the o-rings ( 2 ) and your good too go.

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I have the exact same issue with the Corsa Exhaust leaking on both sides and was going to tackle it this Spring. Keep us posted on replacing the o-rings and fix. Thanks!

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Just spoke with Joe who advised me to call Corsa. Did just that and they are sending 4 O-rings free of charge (funny they didn't mention this yesterday but were more than happy to sell me the 160deer rebuild kit). Will post a follow-up with pictures once I tackle the project this weekend.

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I called Corsa and they are sending all new o-rings. I asked for the parts diagram but I doubt these are very complicated. 

Would like to hear from someone who changed them out.

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I noticed a small drip at the end of the season from my Corsa exhaust, where the shaft exits the diverter tube. It dripped about once every 45 seconds or so, very little. I called Corsa and they recommended changing the o rings that seal the shaft in the the diverted tube. They sent me a bag of free replacement o rings, maybe 1/4" or so. Today I went to my storage building and dug in. Six large hose clamps and one electrical plug hold it in there. A cordless drill and flat bit made quick work of the clamps. With some wiggling, wrangling and brute force I got the diverted assembly out from the 3 large hoses it mounts to. I left the hoses connected in the boat and removed them all from the diverted itself. Once on the bench I could see the butterfly plate that needed removed to allow the shaft to slide out. I left all the linkages connected and simply removed the two hex head screws holding the entire actuator assembly to the diverted. This avoids any adjustment later. The hex head screws holding the butterfly plate were fairly deep inside, so a combination of an Allen bit, some extensions, and a ratcheting screwdriver got them out. Make sure you take a picture of the linkage before you unbolt the bracket so you see how to put it back. It can swivel and go back two different ways, but only one is correct. The small o rings get cut out then you roll the two new ones down the shaft into their recess slots. Then reverse the process to get it back together. Some tape to hold the butterfly Allen screws to the long extension is needed to get them started. Once together, compress the actuator manually to make sure it all moves freely. Then wrestle the entire assembly back in, bottom hose on first, then side hose to through hull fitting, finally last hose to manifold assembly.
Tighten 6 hose clamps, plug in electrical connector, done.

Took about 1 hour. On a scale of 1 to five, one being easy, this is a 2.

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