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outdrive bravo 1 help

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I noticed that it was really hard to get my drive in reverse. I assumed since this boat is new to me that the cable needed to be replaced. So I pulled the drive to inspect since I want to repaint over the winter anyways. I found that the cable seems to slide forward and back easily as it should. I then decided to see what the rod (whatever is inside the drive) that is pushed / pulled by the shifter cable felt like. I could easily pull it out and it would click then the drive was in gear. I could push it in slightly until another click and it was in neutral. Then I tried to push it in farther to find reverse and thats when things seem funny. It is really hard to push it far enough in that it goes into gear. Its almost like its almost stuck in gum or something. It will go if you push hard enough and far enough. Once you get it there the drive will be in gear.

There however is something wrong though. Anyone have any thoughts on what it could be. Ive never cracked open an outdrive or worked on one so im a little lost

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With your out drive off, have you tried shifting your out drive by turning that pivot pin that the cable hooks on to? If it shifts easy there more than likely you need to have the shift cable replaced. They get corroded inside. How old is she? Denny.

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With your out drive off, have you tried shifting your out drive by turning that pivot pin that the cable hooks on to? If it shifts easy there more than likely you need to have the shift cable replaced. They get corroded inside. How old is she? Denny.

Just came in from fooling with it. With the drive off It is pretty hard to push or pull the pivot pin to shift the unit. I drained the oil and pulled that back cover off so I could get a better look at the linkage etc. I can shift the unit but I must be turning the input shaft by hand while applying pressure. It takes a good amount of pressure applied to the linkage to force it to shift. Like I said I can do it but something just doesnt seem right.

What really sounds weird is that turning the input shaft seems the hardest while in neutral. If I can get it in gear it eases up some.

Any thoughts

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It sounds like something is bound up in the unit. You seem to be somewhat mechanically inclined, if you can get a diagram of the parts that makes up the interior workings of the unit, and if it doesn't require any special tools you might able to get it apart and pinpoint the problem. When I got my impeller kit for my out drive the parts guy at the marina gave me a print out of the parts and how it went together, and a few pointers as to what to look for. If all else fails a mechanic at the marina may tell you what it is, I'm sure they have run into this issue before. Denny.

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I'd take it to a servicing center that knows Bravo drives. Depending on the year, it may need a new shift linkage (depending on the year of the drive, there is a newer, stronger version for item # 15/16 in the link below). There is a special tool I believe you'd need that is required to pull the shaft, item # 9 in order to change the shift linkage, if that is indeed the problem.

http://www.marinepartsplus.com/catalog/mercruiser/serial/BRAVO_ONE/809808+96/1943-210

http://www.marinepartsplus.com/catalog/mercruiser/serial/BRAVO_ONE/809808+96/1943-190

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I also noticed something that has me concerned. The output shaft appears to possibly have twisted splines. At first I was thinking it was the way they were made. The first portion of the splines are completly straight where the prop would be located. then directly behind they are twisted maybe a full spline.

So can someone tell me if this is indeed the way some were made. Im pretty sure not but maybe I will luck out.

If they are indeed twisted how in the world is it even possible. The shaft appears to run true when watching it turn. I will put an indicator on it tonight to check runout. I would have assumed that if they were twisted it would have destroyed the drive.

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I also noticed something that has me concerned. The output shaft appears to possibly have twisted splines. At first I was thinking it was the way they were made. The first portion of the splines are completly straight where the prop would be located. then directly behind they are twisted maybe a full spline.

So can someone tell me if this is indeed the way some were made. Im pretty sure not but maybe I will luck out.

If they are indeed twisted how in the world is it even possible. The shaft appears to run true when watching it turn. I will put an indicator on it tonight to check runout. I would have assumed that if they were twisted it would have destroyed the drive.

The splines on the output shaft should be straight as an arrow. If they are tweeked, it is a good indication that your S/S prop has smacked something. Hard enough to twist the shaft, but not hard enough to break it. A hit that hard can do some pretty heafty damage upstream, also. Time for some major work to be done. The S/S props are great, but they do have a tendancy to not protect the drive from a severe strike that an aluminum prop will do when the aluminum one will bend / break when it hits a solid object.

Also, the binding shifting problem may or may not be related. The linkage should move quite smoothly with very defined detents in F-N-R. Mine surely does. The linkage that connects the shift cable to the cone clutch may be bent / binding or the cone clutch could be hanging up. Looks like your Bravo1 needs some close attention.

What year is your Bravo1? If you are going to do the work yourself, Mercruiser Bravo Manual #11 covers the Bravo1's w/ SN:s B664190 and above, and shows complete proceedures on inspection, troubleshooting and repair.

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The splines on the output shaft should be straight as an arrow. If they are tweeked, it is a good indication that your S/S prop has smacked something. Hard enough to twist the shaft, but not hard enough to break it. A hit that hard can do some pretty heafty damage upstream, also. Time for some major work to be done. The S/S props are great, but they do have a tendancy to not protect the drive from a severe strike that an aluminum prop will do when the aluminum one will bend / break when it hits a solid object.

Also, the binding shifting problem may or may not be related. The linkage should move quite smoothly with very defined detents in F-N-R. Mine surely does. The linkage that connects the shift cable to the cone clutch may be bent / binding or the cone clutch could be hanging up. Looks like your Bravo1 needs some close attention.

What year is your Bravo1? If you are going to do the work yourself, Mercruiser Bravo Manual #11 covers the Bravo1's w/ SN:s B664190 and above, and shows complete proceedures on inspection, troubleshooting and repair.

Yeah I hate to admit it but im guessing you are correct. I checked the runout at the prop shaft last night and was getting .016.

I also pulled the shift linkage, detent, and the verticle shaft which turn the shift mechnasim so I could get a better look at the gears and cone clutch. Im guessing that I have something binding up in that area.

So im off to the metal supply house to buy some stock so I can make these stupid tools. Im lucky I guess that I have a mill and lathe so I can make them.

My drive is a 94 I assume. Ill have to check the serial number when I get home. Can you tell me where I could find that manual

Thanks

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Being a '94, your SN: is well over the minimum for that manual. My '92 uses that manual. I need to do some checking. PM sent.

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I think the runout allowed is 0.006" for the prop shaft on a Bravo 1.

Being a '94, if you find the drive costs more to rebuild that to replace, I highly recommend getting a 2005 and newer version Bravo 1 or 3. (much smoother shifting)

If you find that you can rebuild for less, than I recommend getting the update kit for the upper driveshaft housing. Will need 2 of the new style washers. With the rear cover off, you should see 2 numbers stamped into the housing. i.e. 91 and say 94. This would mean you would want a new style 0.051" and 0.054" shim - they don't come with the complete update kit.

NOTE: if you go with a complete 2005 B1 or B3 drive, you'll most likely need a new gimbal bearing that allows more room for their new style/larger U-Joints. 30-879194A01

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I think the runout allowed is 0.006" for the prop shaft on a Bravo 1.

Being a '94, if you find the drive costs more to rebuild that to replace, I highly recommend getting a 2005 and newer version Bravo 1 or 3. (much smoother shifting)

If you find that you can rebuild for less, than I recommend getting the update kit for the upper driveshaft housing. Will need 2 of the new style washers. With the rear cover off, you should see 2 numbers stamped into the housing. i.e. 91 and say 94. This would mean you would want a new style 0.051" and 0.054" shim - they don't come with the complete update kit.

NOTE: if you go with a complete 2005 B1 or B3 drive, you'll most likely need a new gimbal bearing that allows more room for their new style/larger U-Joints. 30-879194A01

Well I was able to get the top end apart after making a spanner wrench to remove the input shaft nut. I was expecting to find that there was something wrong with the cone clutch setup causeing it to bind up but didnt see anything abnormal. I took it all apart and inspected to not see any real wear areas. The input shaft also looks fine.

I have split the upper and lower sections so im going to see if there could be something in the lower unit causeing the upper to bind when trying to shift it. I wouldnt think thats possible but im not seeing anything else. This will at least narrow down the section I need to address first. Then ill get to the twisted lower shaft.

Anyone ever had one of these shafts straightened. I know there are heat treating outfits that do this sort of thing, just never had the need.

Thanks

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Glad the upper is OK, as I believe that the pricey part. The lowers can be had from companies like SEI for under a grand, brand new.

Where as the output shaft is twisted, I would suspect your best course of action would be to replace it. A slight bend may not be a problem to repair, but a twist is a whole nother can of worms. Repairing may be more costly than a used fleabay replacement.

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Glad the upper is OK, as I believe that the pricey part. The lowers can be had from companies like SEI for under a grand, brand new.

Where as the output shaft is twisted, I would suspect your best course of action would be to replace it. A slight bend may not be a problem to repair, but a twist is a whole nother can of worms. Repairing may be more costly than a used fleabay replacement.

well I didnt say the upper was Okay lol. i just said I couldlt find anything wrong with it. To me it just seems really hard to get in and out of gear. I posted on another forum and was told this is common for a bravo. They need to be spinning at a good clip in order to shift smoothly.

Now I wish i had a way to get this thing moving so I could really inspect.

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well I didnt say the upper was Okay lol. i just said I couldlt find anything wrong with it. To me it just seems really hard to get in and out of gear. I posted on another forum and was told this is common for a bravo. They need to be spinning at a good clip in order to shift smoothly.

Not sure that is the case on a Bravo. The Alpha needs to be punched into drive since it uses a clutch dog, but I believe the Bravo uses cones. I could be wrong on that for a Bravo I. I know for a fact that the BIII uses cones and does not have to be spinning at a good clip to shift.

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My Bravo1 is smooth as silk shifting.

Just sayin'

My issue is I just dont have one to compare it with. I wish I had a known good unit to compare it to off of the boat.

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On a Bravo, if a person wants to be able to shift the drive without the engine running, they would need to turn the props at the same time.

i.e. drive on the boat, but in neutral, have a person spin the props as you shift gears on the remote control.

drive off the boat, have a person spin the props as you push in or pull out on the shift linkage.

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