JPW

Wiring a transom mounted Transducer –

12 posts in this topic

Mounting a Lowrance HDI 83/200 transducer on my 24 Chap Sunesta

Getting a lot of conflicting information on the net as well as talking to Lowrance directly.

The issue is I do NOT want to drill a 1” hole in the back of my boat. They require a 1” hole as that is the size of the plug. My boat has a swim platform on the back and there is no easy place to put this hole above the water line. I want a much smaller hole.

I want to cut the cable and then re-splice it.

Lots of folks are telling me I can’t do that, that cutting the cable will cause bad voodoo or something.

I also want to extend the cable. A cable extension kit is like $50, for 12’ of wire. While it’s not the money it’s just that since I am going to cut the wire I should be able to splice in some extra wire. I assume that this cable has shielded wire. Can’t I just splice in some 18/4 Awg Shielded Speaker Wire?

On the splices I need to be sure to solder correctly and put some foil back as shielding.

Anybody has any issues?

ALSO - or separate question, for the wire that is running on the outside of the boat, any suggestions on how to secure that wire down to the outside of the hull?

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drill the hole right under the swim platform, fill hole with 4200 fast cure and cover it with a clam shell, that is calibrated wire that will give false echos to the sounder especially in hd u will get bad voodoo thats why the ext. kit costs so much.

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Re ... cutting the wire ... why anybody would have any issues with it ... you will own the problem if it develops ... ;)

I am not familiar with specifics of Lowrance but today's marine sensors/devices are usually on some sort of digital network/connection, either proprietary or NMMA standard. The modification must be done with the same type of wire including shielding, proper connections, etc, to preserve the integrity of the signal. You better know what you are doing ... solder connections are not good anywhere near boat.

Just an idea for mounting and wire support ...

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I added a transom mounted transducer and ran the cable through my stern light, to save drilling that 1' hole. Denny.

IMG_2154_zpscefb3715.jpg

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You "Do Not" want to splice that cable NoNoNoNo.

You're spending good Doe for the unit bust loose the 50 Bucks you wont regret it.

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I've spliced extensions before for other applications, the trick is you have to fully shield the wire again after solder, and then heat shrink wrap the wire. However, I found that Eagle brand extensions match Lowrance, and got one, also ordered some 4200 fast cure

Looks just easier to drill the 1" hole and clam shell like some of you guys did. Also I don't have any 5 wire shielded cable handy.

Need to hit the hardware store for some p-clips, stainless steel screws and a 1" drill bi-metal hole saw

many thanks

-jp

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might sound dumb but when drilling the hole u might want to run the bit in reverse just 2 start it, it prevents the gelcoat from spider webbing, if not familiar with drilling gelcoat might want to google it, it sucks when the transom looks like a cracked windshield.

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I just did this to my boat and used a hole saw but first put blue painters tape where I would drill the hole. run the drill in reverse first then drill straight through. Use the 4200 sealeant and one of the chrome shell covers. For the cable I used some self adhevise cable clamps. Clean the spot where the clamp will stick with some alcohol first. looks very professional when completed.

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Garmin got a lot of complaints on the size of the connector. So now there locking collar splits in half so it can be removed. Only a 1/2" hole is needed now.

Yes, don't cut the wire. First off, you will void the warranty. 2nd, another spot for a bad connection to happen. 3rd, if not done right and shielded, you will have more than false readings.....

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I'm not an expert on drilling fiberglass. I think a bi-metal will be fine, but suspect carbide tipped would be better but 1" is not a size I can find in carbide.

Run the drill backwards a bit to get the groves going, painters tape. Good suggestions.

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use bi-metal, carbide gets ugly, do not use, diamond is the best but there 2 expensive unless u want to drill a lot of holes. roto zips work well also but I cant do that small of a circle circuler if that makes any sense, mine look more like an ovel, great for speaker installs etc.

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