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Wrench touched both battery terminals, sparks, now ignition is dead. HELP!

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I installed a new primary battery in my 2004 236 Sunesta which I have done many times. While tightening the nut on the positive terminal, the wrench touched the negative battery terminal, sparks flew and I dropped the wrench. (No need to tell me to connect the ground first or to use wing nuts, I know... I know... :) )The positive cables were on the positive battery terminal (loosely, not tight) and the ground cable was not connected. Of course there were little burn like spots on the wrench where it touched the terminals but I figured no harm no foul.

Now when I turn on my ignition, nothing, dead, no gauges, nada. The stereo still works so I think I must have zapped something specifically tied to the ignition, but the question is, what did I zap? I pulled the relays and the fuses on the top of the Volvo Penta 5.0 motor and nothing looked blown. Is there another fuse someplace I need to look? I can't find anything, nor anything in the manual. I also have two additional batteries for running the electronics with a Perko battery switch for "All", "1", or "2". I tried all three Perko switch settings but still nothing.

Any help would be a benefit as I don't want to take it to the shop unless it's something WAY over my head. Thanks!

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My mercruiser has a breaker on top of the engine. If I manually trip it all engine power is off. Maybe you have one of those somewhere. Just trying to help and my response may be wrong since I know nothing about volvos.

Somebody here will help soon.

Good luck

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Yep, the Volvo Penta also has a little breaker box on top of the engine and I looked at those fuses and none were blown. There were three relays (one for ignition, one for engine, and something else) that I couldn't tell if they were good or not since they were just black plastic little boxes, but there was a spare in there and I tried that one and still nothing. I'm wondering if there is an "inline" fuse on a cable someplace that I'm not aware of.

Thanks GuitarGuy for the quick response!

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My old Merc 5.0 had a little square black fuse on the hot battery cable connection down at the starter solenoid. Blew mine once doing something similar, don't know if there is one there on a VP.

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This may be obvious, but is the ground wire now connected? As far as wing nuts go, they are not a good choice, as they tend to come loose. I use stainless nuts with lock washers. I also have rubber boots over each terminal, to avoid the inevitable.

brick

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Could it be the #5 breaker/fuse in the diagram below? If not, #20?

It looks like you've already checked these if I read right?

Do you have a vom to check down the line?

You'd like to think a breaker or fuse blew, not frying the ecu but I think it would still turn over. You might check those relays too just in case.

http://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-explodedview-7744000-30-6673.aspx

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Thanks tomnjo, I'll try to find that.

Yes brick, all cables are connected. Like I said, the sparks startled me but I just figured no harm no foul, the battery didn't blow up in my face so that's a good thing! First thing I did was turn on the electronics and they worked fine, so didn't think much of it until I tried the key, totally dead.

I agree on the wing nuts, actually had them on there prior, but the new battery came with regular nuts so I just used them.

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Thanks bob and betsy. I don't know about #5, not even sure where that is exactly. Shouldn't be #20 as I pulled those fuses and none were blown. I pulled the relays too but I have no idea how to check if they are blown or not, they aren't clear like the fuses, just a little black box that plugs in. There was a spare relay in the box that had the same markings so I tried that in the starter relay plug and still nothing. I will say, the starter relay had a little discoloration on the metal connectors that seemed to maybe suggest something, like a little blue-ish coloring but like I said, no idea if that's normal, and no clue how to check if the relay is good or not.

I would certainly hope a fuse would blow before the ecu got hit! Not only does it not turn over, but just turning the key on always gives me the beep and gauges, but nothing now.

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That's the breaker that these others were referring to with their Merc's.

It should be a reset button, usually red in color. It might be hidden down by the slave solenoid.

Since you switched out the relays, that should have eliminated that potential issue.

But, Yes, relays are a little different as they need low amounts of amperage to activate an internal switch to power up something with much more draw.

If you do need to test, using both a positive and neg supply on the proper relay terminals, you should here a click

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Oh, gotcha. I was thinking more fuse than breaker. Thanks, I'll try to find that. Hope it's as easy as just hitting a reset button!

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I have done the same! I bet you hit the celling!!!!! I know I did!

OK, you shorted across the battery, I would "think" your breakers are just fine. is the safety switch or lanyard in place? Is the out-drive in gear? Did you connect all the wires to that battery?

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Iggy, yeah, startled may be an understatement, but it was over so quick, I don't think I realized it really until I saw the burns on the wrench and the battery terminals, then I was a bit more like, Holy.... schneikes!!!! I don't remember getting any kind of shock, just lots of sparks and I instantly dropped the wrench! :)

One thing I didn't mention is this occurred in my driveway. I did verify the safety switch was in place, yes, all cables are connected properly, and it was not in gear. I turned the key on Saturday and everything worked normally. It was only after this incident on Sunday when everything was dead. The boat was sitting still in my driveway the entire time as I was just cleaning the inside of the boat while the stereo was on.

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is the battery still good? might have shorted the battery out if everything else is OK.

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Ok, I think I found the breaker reset button, it's red and has "50" label on top. I pushed it and still nothing. There was no click or anything so I don't think that was it, I mean that because it didn't feel like a typical breaker reset button does when you get a click to reset. I guess I can pull the battery and get it tested, didn't think it could short out like that. The other reason I don't think it's the battery is because I've got that Perko switch and 2 other batteries on board that are good and when I try to switch to the other batteries or even "All", I still get nothing.

ARRRGGGHHHH!!!!

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I never seen it happen but check your perko switch, also check the grounds if no power from any batts, sounds like your not finding a breaker or fuse somewhere, get out a viol meter and start tracing from the batts.

sure itsnot the 20 amp fuse that Bob and Betsy show on the parts drawing?

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You probably didn't hurt anything since ground was not attached. DID YOU CHECK THE HALYARD Cut cutoff?

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Ok, checked all the fuses in that box, nothing is blown, even swapped out good ones just to verify. The only thing I CAN'T verify is the relays in that box since I don't know how to check them. Pulled the Perko switch off hoping for a fuse someplace but didn't see anything and the switch works (ran tests with the stereo). Battery is fine, also tested that with the stereo, with the new one connected and disconnected. So, power from all batteries verified. Fuses in the box are all good. Pulled the breaker with the red reset button, nothing looked strange and hit the reset multiple times, nothing. There has GOT to be some fuse someplace along the line that I'm missing. I looked behind the dash at the ignition and there's nothing but wire harness and no fuses. I don't know where to go next.... other than the mechanic.... :(

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If you mean the safety lanyard at the throttle, yes, it's engaged properly. No power to the dashboard, trim inoperable, no power to either 12v "cigarette" lighters, but do have power to the sound system.

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Did you look for the fuse at the starter solenoid.

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Hey Tom, yes, but there was no fuse there, just the battery cable to the solenoid, which I traced other cables up from there to the red reset button what Bob mentioned earlier, which is what I think you're talking about. No luck with that either. Zero power to anything on the boat, except the sound system... which would not be a problem if all I plan to do is sit in the boat on my driveway....

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Odd

Really odd. Shorting the battery terminals creates the current thru the wrench. Not anything else. Voltage does not climb . It goes down. Then comes back up.

With the negative leads off.........No voltage or current flowed thru the wiring.

See if the battery has NO high current & voltage left from the short.

While blowing the horn continuously. Turn on the starter For the engine. If the horn weakens or stops ? The battery is ruined. Can happen.

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Only I can't blow the horn, there's no power to it. No power to anything but the sound system. But I had the switch turned to 1 for the battery that I "shorted" out, and had the stereo powered on, but there was no power to it. Then I connected that battery, I got power to the sound system so that battery is still working. But there's no current going to any other electrical "thing" on the boat other than that.

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Odd

Really odd. Shorting the battery terminals creates the current thru the wrench. Not anything else. Voltage does not climb . It goes down. Then comes back up.

With the negative leads off.........No voltage or current flowed thru the wiring.

See if the battery has NO high current & voltage left from the short.

While blowing the horn continuously. Turn on the starter For the engine. If the horn weakens or stops ? The battery is ruined. Can happen.

That was my point. I bet all your fuses are fine. Throw a charge into the battery over night. Very good point, "can you put a meter on the battery and watch it when you turn the key?" Just because the radio comes on, that does NOT mean you have enough current to start the engine.

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