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myers368

Water gushing out from under icemaker - 320 Signature

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When I turn on my water pump, water gushes out from under my cockpit icemaker and I get not water pressure throughout the boat. It's a 2003 320 Signature. Has anyone else had this problem or any thoughts/advice? I haven't pulled the icemaker yet, but have read elsewhere that it's really hard to get to the lines behind it. Not sure what to expect here.

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+1 on a disconnected hose.

I have a similar issue I just found as well. when I left the AC on over the past week and went on the boat this Saturday the cabin had about a 1" of water in it. you would think the cabin would have a drain in it like all other areas but no. we had to use sponges and towels to remove the water. The AC unit is under a stair which is glued down (I hope its not 5200) . The harsh winter either caused an AC hose to crack or is slightly loose. either way I will need to remove the stair and locate the issue. hope its just a fitting and not the AC unit itself.

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+1 on a disconnected hose.

I have a similar issue I just found as well. when I left the AC on over the past week and went on the boat this Saturday the cabin had about a 1" of water in it. you would think the cabin would have a drain in it like all other areas but no. we had to use sponges and towels to remove the water. The AC unit is under a stair which is glued down (I hope its not 5200) . The harsh winter either caused an AC hose to crack or is slightly loose. either way I will need to remove the stair and locate the issue. hope its just a fitting and not the AC unit itself.

Did you remember to leave the sump pump on to evacuate the condensate from the A/C? If not, that sump box can overflow and flood...not sure if the 327 drains condensate to a sump, but that's how the Sigs are built. Just a thought...

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good thought - I really don't know if condensate drains are connected to another drain or where it goes. it was very clean water in the cabin so condensate was probably the source. thanks I will look at that.

still don't understand why the cabin doesn't have a drain or a hole into the bilge. it could fill up 2 feet of water before the shower drain would be reached.

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Did you remember to leave the sump pump on to evacuate the condensate from the A/C? If not, that sump box can overflow and flood...not sure if the 327 drains condensate to a sump, but that's how the Sigs are built. Just a thought...

We have a 276 Sig. Haven't read or seen anything about leaving a sump pump on. Does anyone know if a 276 Sig has one and what do I need to leave on?

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We have a 276 Sig. Haven't read or seen anything about leaving a sump pump on. Does anyone know if a 276 Sig has one and what do I need to leave on?

Find your A/c unit and look for the hose leaving its drain pan. This hose will go to a sump pump, directly to a thru hull, or into the bilge (uncommon). Any drain on your boat that is below the waterline cannot gravity flow so they must be pumped overboard via a pump. Shower drains and condensate drains are commonly plumbed this way. This pump will have an on/off switch (helm).

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Find your A/c unit and look for the hose leaving its drain pan. This hose will go to a sump pump, directly to a thru hull, or into the bilge (uncommon). Any drain on your boat that is below the waterline cannot gravity flow so they must be pumped overboard via a pump. Shower drains and condensate drains are commonly plumbed this way. This pump will have an on/off switch (helm).

I have not been able to locate this switch on my 2008 250 Sig. I understood it to be a breaker and not a switch (see photo below). Is this different than the same year model 290 Sig or the 276 Sig? I'm not even sure where this breaker is located.

Right now my boat is an hour away and I left the "drying mode" on. It simply cycles the a/c for 30 minutes every 4 hours to keep the cabin dry. I am extremely nervous about this. First time I have left it on.

IMG_4829.jpg

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I have not been able to locate this switch on my 2008 250 Sig. I understood it to be a breaker and not a switch (see photo below). Is this different than the same year model 290 Sig or the 276 Sig? I'm not even sure where this breaker is located.

Right now my boat is an hour away and I left the "drying mode" on. It simply cycles the a/c for 30 minutes every 4 hours to keep the cabin dry. I am extremely nervous about this. First time I have left it on.

IMG_4829.jpg

Ok, so it seems on some Sigs, they wire the sump pump directly to a DC breaker (with no on/off helm switch). I'm not sure why they would vary this way, but empirically, it seems they do.

All of my DC breakers are of the "always on unless tripped" variety (unlike my AC breakers which are on/off/breaker type). If you have the same type of DC breakers, then presumably your sump pump is always powered (unless the breaker has tripped for some reason). That is, you have nothing to turn on manually.

Perhaps someone (CJ?) with a 270 will chime in and offer specifics for your boat...?

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That makes sense. I'm sure it's one of the push button breakers under the helm. I need to take a picture of it and study. I check them regularly and they're all on. So I hope I'm okay.

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I have not been able to locate this switch on my 2008 250 Sig. I understood it to be a breaker and not a switch (see photo below). Is this different than the same year model 290 Sig or the 276 Sig? I'm not even sure where this breaker is located.

Ok, so it seems on some Sigs, they wire the sump pump directly to a DC breaker (with no on/off helm switch). I'm not sure why they would vary this way, but empirically, it seems they do.

Same on my 2007Sig270 ... the sump pump does not have a helm switch, the pump power is always ON and is switched on and off by its own floter switch. The two other bilge pumps have switches at the helm in addition to floter switches. Keep in mind that the bilge pumps as well as a sump pump are or should be always ON. The switches at helm only override the floter switch and force the pump ON regardless of bilge water level.

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on the 327 (at least on mine) the sumps are always on - I need to check the condensate lines and where they drain. all the manuals on the 327 have pictures & part #'s except the AC unit - go figure. I think you guys are correct. the water in that is leaking is from the condensate pan and I am guessing is tied into the thru hull connection.

just don't understand why the cabin doesn't have a drain- its a low point where water can be trapped. if you leave the cabin door open by mistake and it rains or in this case the AC unit leaks into the cabin there is no place for the water to go!!. maybe on newer models they corrected this?

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on the 327 (at least on mine) the sumps are always on - I need to check the condensate lines and where they drain. all the manuals on the 327 have pictures & part #'s except the AC unit - go figure. I think you guys are correct. the water in that is leaking is from the condensate pan and I am guessing is tied into the thru hull connection.

just don't understand why the cabin doesn't have a drain- its a low point where water can be trapped. if you leave the cabin door open by mistake and it rains or in this case the AC unit leaks into the cabin there is no place for the water to go!!. maybe on newer models they corrected this?

Our 290 does not have a cabin drain either per se, however, there is a forward bilge that is beneath the visible fiberglass cabin liner, In this forward bilge, there is a forward bilge pump (and its also where the shower/ac condensate sump box + sump pump is located). If the cabin floods for some reason, water will make its way to this forward bilge via a floor hatch in the liner--not a real drain--but the water would ultimately be vacated from the cabin.

Likewise, if the sump box overflows because of malfunction or forgetting to turn on the helm switch, the forward bilge pump will vacate the overflow as they sit side-by-side in the forward bilge.

On the 327, it certainly sounds like a floor drain to the bilge would be a reasonable feature...

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just don't understand why the cabin doesn't have a drain- its a low point where water can be trapped.

Must be an oversight at the boat design/mold creation stage. A cabin sole w/out any drain to the bilge ... c'mon.

If you feel like you must have it ... just drill a nice hole in the aft part of the cabin sole, on the side where your boat lists most often. If you can reach under, install and seal in a drain, if not ... just finish the hole with poly resin and/or gelcoat. Inexpensive peace of mind.

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I agree, easy remedy - the hardest part is the water (condensate) leak that requires removing a stair attached by what looks like 5200 without destroying the stair.

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..the hardest part is the water (condensate) leak that requires removing a stair attached by what looks like 5200 without destroying the stair.

If your A/C is installed like mine, I believe it is installed minutes after the keel is laid. Everything is built around it with amazing disregard for the need to service it.

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The house voltage switch needs to left on when the AC is running so the sump has power. At least that is the way mine is.

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The house voltage switch needs to left on when the AC is running so the sump has power. At least that is the way mine is.

Do you mean the house battery selector? I have left my a/c in "moisture mode" for the first time this week. It's a setting where the a/c comes on for 30 minutes every 4 hours to keep the cabin dry. Since it operates on shore power, I left all battery selectors off. Does this mean the sump pump does not have power or is it hard wired like the bilge pumps? I have been very nervous this week.

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your sump should be wired the same as the bilge - that is how mine is wired. I can turn off batteries and no shore power but if the float lifts the sump both forward and bilge will operate. I would think all models of Chaps should be the same

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I would think all models of Chaps should be the same

Unfortunately, incorrect. As delivered by Chaparral, the only items wired direct to my batteries (ie pre-battery switch) are the 2 (forward and aft) bilge pumps and the trim pumps for the mains.

It appears Chaparrals are akin to snowflakes...no two are exactly alike. You'd hope otherwise, but...

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Yes the house battery switch should be on. On my 330 the sump pump is wired to the house batteries and is the battery switch is off the condensation from the AC overflows the sump and goes in the forward bilge. It took me awhile to figure out were the water was coming from.

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I suspect there is no drain in the cabin sole, to prevent bilge water, vapors and smells from getting into the cabin. There is a sump to evacuate water.

brick

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