Jump to content
JPW

Pulling 244 behind my RV issues

Recommended Posts

We take the 244 chap sunsesta (xtreme) with us camping. I have a class a diesel RV built on a freightliner chassis.

Been doing this for 4 years now. The long annual trip we take about 1k miles with the boat. I am a stickler for trailer maintenance and replace and/or repack bearings ever year.

I never had any issues towing with my Nissan armada but always seem to have issues with brakes when towing behind the RV. I don't tow with the Nissan very far but the issues I have with the RV on longer trips is overheating causes by excessive braking.

This SST trailer has a surge brake and dual axel disk brakes. When attached to the RV I am true level. The emergency brake lock wire has plenty of play. I just can't figure out why the brakes overheat.

This last trip after 100 miles I stopped and using thermal temp hubs were over250 deg. Then later in the trip after stopping and checking again the brakes went on again and I had a nasty overheat with the grease blowing off the brake buddy caps and I had to stop again. Brake dust everywhere. This time I took out the bleeder screws on the caliper and finished the trip with no brakes. No further heat issues. My RV did not notice the braking difference for normal driving but of course I want brakes on my trailer.

I know it is something with the surge piston but just wondering if these surge brakes just don't work well behind a large RV. Thinking I may have to switch to electric brakes. Any thoughts?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just going to add that I put new calipers on last year.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds to me like the brakes needed to be bled...what make are they? I had some issues with the Kodiaks, they seem to rust in place, and they were new!! No issues with UFP.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'd raise the hitch a bit so you are nose high, that way breaks will take more of a stop to be engaged.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Is it possible that your longer trips behind the motor home include more hills? Surge brakes will overheat easily on the downside of hills.

brick

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Surge brakes suck IMHO. I am getting a new trailer next year. Hydraulic over electric. Going to add some cooler holders and storage as well. Mine overheat as well. I went 350 miles today and the rear wheels were dark and covered in dust.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would love to hear about changing brakeing from surge to electric.. I know when towing my trailer behind my truck I can feel it disengage as I take off from a stop light..Im wondering if towing with the Class A there is the same amount of forward enertia to allow the brake piston assembly to go into a neutral position which relieves the pressure on the calipers...I prefer electric brakes because you can adjust the stopping power with the roller wheel.on the cab controller.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Surge brakes suck IMHO. I am getting a new trailer next year. Hydraulic over electric. Going to add some cooler holders and storage as well. Mine overheat as well. I went 350 miles today and the rear wheels were dark and covered in dust.

Your posts kill me as I read them in my head with Archer's voice. You could post the instructions for assembling a barbecue grill and it would still be funny in my head cause I be ad-libbing Archer's comments along the way.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a feeling we may have surge brakes on boat trailers rather than electric due to concerns about immersion in water?

I'd agree, electric is far superior. Love the electric brakes on our travel trailer.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes I think electric over hydraulic is the way I need to go. Surge brakes are fine for local but for any distance I can't rely on them anymore. I was so concerned about overheat it make me too stress and the drive was no fun.

Had these darn breaks lock up on my 400miles into this trip - going UP A HILL. New pads on this trip and you swear they had 20K miles on them already. Tons of brake dust.

I think that behind the RV for some reason the surge piston gets confused, or the fact that the RV does not rock or move like a truck does. The surge gets stuck on. I feel lucky I make it this time.

Any recommendations on trailers?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I switched to electric brakes on my trailer, and never looked back. My Dodge ram has a built in brake controller that works in tandem with the engine braking. With surge brakes the trailer brakes would lock up with any aggressive braking. Made emergency maneuvers just that much more tense.

I am not sure why people are worried about electro-magnets under water. If your wiring uses the proper terminations, there is no issues with corrosion. No different than a trolling motor. Just make sure you get backing plates that have a good corrosion protective coating on them. I got Dale backing plates that are galvanized and then e-coated. For the last three years I have not had to worry about lock ups, fluid maintenance, wheel cylinders leaking or locking, up, no master cylinder issues, etc. Not to mention With the brake controller I can set it so I can stop the truck full blast without any drama.

At the end of the day I think electric brakes handle water better than trying to keep water out of the hydraulics, of conventional brakes especially when they are submersed hot.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There are some E-over-H conversion kits out there.

I didn't do it this year but next year I will drive up to the Chattanooga, TN area and let Tennessee Trailers put E-over-H on my/their trailer for many of the reasons expressed in this thread.

I'm doing local trailering mainly - 15-25 miles one-way - but downhill towing is creating some problems and we've got some really bumpy transitions from roadway to bridge edges that get my trailer doing the hoochie coochie and the surge breaks do a freak out every now and then. I think the few hundred deer for the conversion is a worthwhile expenditure.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i know e-trailer sells a few of those E over H kits. Around 700 deer for parts. Install looks pretty easy, but then need to put electric controls in everything I own that tows. Also no way to get rid of the old actuator without some welding.

I don't have a lot of hillls where I tow. That seems to be the biggest issue for surge. Without that surge is actually pretty reliable.

Right now after doing my research thinking that my Actuator is getting old. It's one of those A-84 UFP Trailer Buddy. Looks like a quality actuator, but I did get this boat/trailer used and the guy I bought it from did tell me that while he took great care of the boat, he clearly neglected the trailer as it was only used for winter storage. I may just replace the actuator. That would be a :30min job.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes I welded my hitch solid when I went electric, you are correct. It is nice thought as there s less charing of the hitch now.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×