Denny

Windlass

91 posts in this topic

You need more chain and more line!!

Yep - so for my new windlass, you already know about the bow, anchor roller I'm installing so I need that highly polished plow anchor I posted a pic for, I'm getting 250ft of line and 30 feet of 3/8" chain because I want to anchor in 100ft of water comfortably. Plus I've already made my own anchor retrieval system out of a cork bouy and 300ft or 1/4" nylon so I can pull it out by hand if it gets stuck in another lobster trap line or anything else for that matter. Plus that anchor popoff system that Todler posted on the Mods thread might be something I will consider.

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Denny, you've convinced me to go with Anchorlift to buy everything I need for my windlass setup except for the anchor roller and bow plate. The one I wanted pictured above which goes on the Chap 277ssx is not one that Anchorlift makes and the only way to find it was to go through Joe at Cecil Marine and he was able to get that to me. However, he's understaffed over there and has a lot on his plate that he can't even look up the exact Lewmar anchor to go with that Lewmar roller which is too bad because I wanted to match the exact one. However, since you had opened up this thread and posted the link to the Anchorlift site, I got in touch with them and told them what I wanted to do and the gentleman from Norway, Roy Ilrod was only too happy to help me with each part number and everything I need except the wiring harness since he wasn't sure what I needed. He recommended a different looking plow anchor that looks like this :Holding%20Pro%2015.jpg

But I told him I didn't like that style of plow anchor and preferred the standard one also in highly polished stainless steel and I'm sure he's going to accommodate me since he's been unbelievably helpful and willing to get me exactly what I need.

RSA10.jpg

So I wanted to thank you for opening up this thread last year around this time, maybe a bit later but here's a question for you:

Could you put out or lay out as much information as possible on the wiring? How did you connect the witches to the breakers and how do you tap power off of the battery? If you had to install a breaker (which I'm sure you did), how did you power that breaker from the battery? Which battery did you use, probably one of the house banks? What types of wires did you use? What was the wiring diagram you went by and did you have helm and bow switches?

I know I'm asking a lot but would appreciate any help if you feel like giving it out, especially the wiring schematic.

Thanks.

Hatem, I have the info, if you still need it. Denny.

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Hatem, I have the info, if you still need it. Denny.

Yes, please, Denny. Thanks. I did reply to your pm BTW. Not sure if you got it?

Iggy was kind enough to check in with me to help me with the wiring since I have NO CLUE, and he also threw in a little bit of ball-busting about being a builder and not knowing how to wire a windlass, pain in the $^&! :D

BTW, here is what Roy from Anchorlift Norway said in his last email - Denny and Iggy, after you guys read this, tell me what you think - if I should just go ahead and let him do all this he's talking about so the wiring installation is much easier?

Hi Hatem,

I have that anchor in Norway, it's a demo anchor that I have used in some test but looking good, can give you a good price.

For wiring, I can make all cables ready with terminal ends which is a bit complicated on the motor cabled, you need a special tool for that.

If you measure up the length from the battery to where you plan to have the solenoid and length from solenoid to windlass + length on the control cables from anchor locker to solenoid, solenoid to helm.

I can make with all necessary terminals so you only have to plugg inn on controls and screw on motor and solenoid.

We are only able to do this from my office, US don't have cable and tooling.

It will cost some extra in freight but save you a lot in installation.

Once I have the measure I know the cost.

Best Regards

Roy Ilerod

Technical Manager

Anchorlift Sales and Service

5 years warranty applies only to product purchase thru authorized dealer.

Here's the anchor and it looks good. Just gotta make sure it's the correct weight. And the hole to tie the quick release should be further down the main stem, there, way at that last elbow. I'll probably drill another hole there myself. All these plow anchors have that hole to connect a quick release at that spot and it's not far down enough on almost all of them.

anchorlift%20plow%20anchor_zpssrdnwvks.p

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What I think,

What is the cost?

You need to give him the distance from the battery to the contractor and then to the windless. This must include how you are going to snake it!

He must use marine wire.

Are you adding foot switches?

Distance from contractor to helm and foot switches.

Where are you mounting the breaker? Again, distances from breaker to battery.

Breaker must be ignition proof.

I would use cast aluminum copper lugs. I posted a link on these. The tined copper ones still corrode.

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What I think,

What is the cost?

You need to give him the distance from the battery to the contractor and then to the windless. This must include how you are going to snake it!

He must use marine wire.

Are you adding foot switches?

Distance from contractor to helm and foot switches.

What is "the contractor"? Including the snaking is no problem I can figure that out.

I'll be sure to ask him to be sure to use marine wire although I would find it hard to believe he wouldn't.

Yes I am adding foot switches remember we talked about that? "Spoiled" :)

No idea what the contractor is. Is that the same as the solenoid he's referring to?

Where are you mounting the breaker? Again, distances from breaker to battery.

Breaker must be ignition proof.

I would use cast aluminum copper lugs. I posted a link on these. The tined copper ones still corrode.

Doesn't the breaker get mounted on the breaker box with the other breakers or are we talking about something different that is much bigger?

I saw your link and if he uses something inferior, we'll change to those.

Trying to find out how Denny wired his from start to finish so I can get some sort of idea on how this whole wiring schematic is supposed to look like and what are the parts involved.

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The contractor is the relay box. You want the breaker mounted as close to the batteries as possible. It does not need to be mounted with the other breakers, no right or wrong there.

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Yes, please, Denny. Thanks. I did reply to your pm BTW. Not sure if you got it?

Iggy was kind enough to check in with me to help me with the wiring since I have NO CLUE, and he also threw in a little bit of ball-busting about being a builder and not knowing how to wire a windlass, pain in the $^&! :D

BTW, here is what Roy from Anchorlift Norway said in his last email - Denny and Iggy, after you guys read this, tell me what you think - if I should just go ahead and let him do all this he's talking about so the wiring installation is much easier?

Hi Hatem,

I have that anchor in Norway, it's a demo anchor that I have used in some test but looking good, can give you a good price.

For wiring, I can make all cables ready with terminal ends which is a bit complicated on the motor cabled, you need a special tool for that.

If you measure up the length from the battery to where you plan to have the solenoid and length from solenoid to windlass + length on the control cables from anchor locker to solenoid, solenoid to helm.

I can make with all necessary terminals so you only have to plugg inn on controls and screw on motor and solenoid.

We are only able to do this from my office, US don't have cable and tooling.

It will cost some extra in freight but save you a lot in installation.

Once I have the measure I know the cost.

Best Regards

Roy Ilerod

Technical Manager

Anchorlift Sales and Service

5 years warranty applies only to product purchase thru authorized dealer.

Here's the anchor and it looks good. Just gotta make sure it's the correct weight. And the hole to tie the quick release should be further down the main stem, there, way at that last elbow. I'll probably drill another hole there myself. All these plow anchors have that hole to connect a quick release at that spot and it's not far down enough on almost all of them.

anchorlift%20plow%20anchor_zpssrdnwvks.p

Hi Hatem, following up on your request, and my :Twocents: worth of info:

First off is a photo of how I wired mine. and a photo of the breaker, and helm switch that they provide me with, along with the ends for the wire. My main power run was in the neighbor of 25ft, so they recommended #4 AWG 600 V Marine Grade Boat Cable, with an 80 AMP Breaker. I ran the hot and the ground "direct" from my 31 series house battery, with the breaker close to the battery. Put the breaker in a place where you can see it, and get at it, if needs be. Being that my boat is only 23ft, I only needed a helm switch. That is why I bought the Windless, so I didn't have to crawl over my windshield.

It is nice that they will put your cables together for you.

However this will be like a plumbing job, you will start at one and work your way to the other end. You want this to be neat, if you are too long, now you might have a small birds nest some where, and if you are too short " OOPS ".

I love to tinker, so for me this was an adventure, and the hardest part was hiding the cables as I strung them along the maze.

If you have the time and like doing this sort of stuff, then go for it.

I just measured long and add in for the fudge factor, and then cut everything to fit.

Any good auto mechanic shop will have wire crimpers, do you know of one?

Also at one time a bought some stuff from West Marine, and they let me use theirs.

Measure twice, make templates, pre-fit, and only cut and drill once.

If there is anything I missed, or you need help with, let me know. Denny.

P.S. No, I did not get your P.M.

Just found your P.M.---Going to read it now.

IMG_0152_zpsawlkznwk.jpg

IMG_0161_zpsvfprfpbr.jpg

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Denny, thank you very much! That schematic is EXACTLY what I needed! Thanks for all the tips on the wiring, too. I have a small strategy on how to run the wires out of sight and it should work well. I might reconsider not having foot switches like you did. Now that I think of it, I shouldn't really need them since the whole idea is to do it from the helm in comfort and style. I only figured the foot switches added an option in case the anchor was stuck on something, then it can be operated while being able to view it from the bow. That was really the only reason for adding them as well, but now that you mentioned not having them, I might just get rid of them altogether.

Thanks again!

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Just to point out a few thing that Denny mentioned:

No matter what, you should be going to the bow. A chain stopper or a cable with a latching hook must be add. You do not want your anchor to deploy when trailering or under way.

See this link, it goes into some consideration before installing one. http://www.lewmar.com/cms/assets/1/home/lewmar_catalogue.pdf

Also, you must install a cleat in-line with the windless. Or A. make up a bridle between the 2 bow cleats. B. just use one of your bow cleats, but the boat will be off to one side. Meaning not in line with the rode.

Bigger point here is, you do not want your windless taking on the load from your anchor. Maybe on a very calm day, but not as a norm. So you will be going forward despite what you two (Denny and Hatem) think. ;)Or at least I hope you would?

The link to the lugs in my past post are compression. So NO tools needed other than a wrench and a screwdriver. Just tighen and add shrink tubing.

On the rode, you will need to splice the line onto the chain. You can not use a shackle.

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Thanks for that link, Ig. That is a good one from Lewmar and I had a tough time finding that.

As far as going forward, in my case it's not a big deal since it's a bowrider and can just walk up there and not climb over the cabin like Denny and worry about being topside with a low rail and possibly falling over if it's choppy or windy or whatever, but it's more so about having the foot switches up front or not. That's more what I was eluding to than actually going up to the front. And I would always tie off the rode on the boat cleats and not leave it straining the windlass, for sure. I remember several people referring to that very important step.

So would a remote control be better than foot switches? Tough to tell if it's doable but I think it would be - have the main switch at the helm an a separate remote control to operate from anywhere instead of the foot switches?

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Thats really up to you. The remotes, are you talking hardwired or wireless.

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Thats really up to you. The remotes, are you talking hardwired or wireless. Its really up to you.

Wireless, for sure. Hardwired doesn't really make much sense for the 276, I would think.

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Need Iggy's or Denny's or anyone else's input who's familiar with the best way (location) to set up these different components on the 276 so I can send the measurements of all the lengths between the different items to Anchorlift so they can make up all the wiring for me into a plug and play setup. They're going to supply the entire kicking kabutle to me and custom make all the wiring but they need the following, mainly the solenoid:

If you measure up the length from the battery to where you plan to have the solenoid

and length from solenoid to windlass

+ length on the control cables from anchor locker to solenoid,

solenoid to helm.

1) Not sure how big the solenoid is and where I should locate it on the 276? Does it need to be near the anchor locker and windlass?

2) If not, can I install it in the bilge or is that a bad place? Don't have too many other options TBH.

3) So all those measurements I need to get him are based on really where the solenoid ends up? Any ideas? How big is this solenoid?

4) Also, Denny, what you have described in your drawing below as "Motor" is that the windlass itself?

IMG_0152_zpsawlkznwk.jpg

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The contractor/solenoid should be mounted in a dry location. The engine compartment is fine, just some were so water can not drip on it. Yes the motor is the windless. Looking at the Lewmar manuals. There is only one POS wire from the battery and that goes to the breaker, than to the solenoid.

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Ok, great, thanks, Iggy. I wonder how big this Anchorlift solenoid is...and why is it also called a "contractor"? That's the kind of stuff that drives me crazy!

BTW, Denny's drawing IS SHOWING only one positive wire going from battery to breaker to solenoid. Were you looking at something else?

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Sorry, note he has 2 wires coming off the battery. First off, its not fused. But that wire is not needed if you wire it right. How is the wiring shown from the one you bought?

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Sorry, note he has 2 wires coming off the battery. First off, its not fused. But that wire is not needed if you wire it right. How is the wiring shown from the one you bought?

I haven't bought it yet, Iggy. See my post above with the blue text in it? That's the information Roy from Anchorlift needs from me in order for him to custom make all the wiring so I can just plug and play. He needs the dimensions of all the runs from all those items that he lists so he knows how much wire to cut and put together. He's clipping the ends and soldering and doing that shrink stuff and putting on connectors etc. so I can just plug them in and be done. I need to make the electrical part of this installation as easy and as professional as I can since (as I told you when we spoke lol :D) I'm not very electrically savvy! Need to dumb it down quite a bit, so that's what he's doing, hence why I asked where is the best place to put the solenoid so I can measure that distance he needs and give it to him.

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The "SOL" is about 4x4x4" give or take. Remember, the cables or on the large size and you need a route that they will fit.

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The "SOL" is about 4x4x4" give or take. Remember, the cables or on the large size (about 3/8") and you need a route that they will fit.

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The "SOL" is about 4x4x4" give or take. Remember, the cables or on the large size and you need a route that they will fit.

Yeah I already figured that part out - where the best area is to run the wires for the entire length of the boat from bilge to storage space to anchor locker and I found out that in that cabin space in front of the helm (it's about the size of the head just not as low) you can see along the side of the hull where Chaparral ran a lot of the wires from the battery in the bilge to the helm and even beyond towards to bow. They all run along the outside of the hull right against it and are hanging with clips. It's pretty neatly done so I'll just follow that line. That's where I'm thinking of putting the solenoid, also. That cabin is all carpeted and dry and actually pretty cozy lol, just a bit small. There's other ways to snake wiring under the floor, too, but I don't think I'll be going that route.

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Sorry, note he has 2 wires coming off the battery. First off, its not fused. But that wire is not needed if you wire it right. How is the wiring shown from the one you bought?

Hatem, that second red wire is coming from the helm switch, and it is needed to operate the windless. Also I did that drawing for my use, and it does have a fuse between the battery and the switch. I put my solenoid close to my windless .

Inclose are some photos of my installation. Click on the photo to access the others. Denny.

P.S. In my opinion pre-made is good only if it has been copied from one that has been done before.

To me it sounds like you are not sure as to where you want to put all the pieces.

Hope these photos help,

They should be able to give you the dimensions of all the pieces.

0809141652_zpsdef552ea.jpg

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That's awesome, Denny, Thanks for that information. This is really helpful as I'm slowly understanding things. You guys have to know that I am completely green when it comes to this kinda thing - Iggy was busting my balls BIG TIME the other day telling me what kind of a builder am I and I don't know how to wire a simple windlass on a boat! Imagine the nerve on that guy oh my goodness he was ripping into me I almost started crying my feelings were so hurt! lol :D J/K

So Denny, few questions -

1) I'm assuming the item in that picture with the chain coming out of it is the solenoid? It almost looks like the windlass itself but I know that's on top of the bow and is the stainless steel motor that pulls the chain and rode, correct?

2) What is the other item with the electrical connections to it on the right? Is that just another part of the solenoid just detached?

3) what is that black board that you mounted the solenoid on made of? Looks like some type of black leather covering a board?

Thanks for taking the time to do all this I really appreciate it. Hopefully this will help others as well as myself.

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Hahaha, I know you did. :)

This came from Roy today, from Anchorlift Norway. He's such a nice guy and speaks Norwegian English. Please let me know what you guys think.

For solenoid you must mount somewhere dry, not inside the anchor locker or near the windlass.

1, near the helm if a natural place there 2, near battery and battery main switch.

In my boat I have the solenoid in the engine room where I also have the battery and battery switch.

The positive heavy cables goes from battery switch, the negative cable goes from battery or ground plate to solenoid and from solenoid to windlass.

Control cable goes from solenoid to helm panel and from helm panel to switch near the windlass.

I have no idea what he's talking about. Which battery switch is he referring to when he says the heavy positive cables go from it? He's obviously not talking about hooking it up directly to the battery, right? He's not talking about any circuit breaker so his layout is different than Denny's, I think. Not sure what to do except let him make up all the runs and send me a diagram and connect it the way he says to do it.

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