Denny

Windlass

91 posts in this topic

That's awesome, Denny, Thanks for that information. This is really helpful as I'm slowly understanding things. You guys have to know that I am completely green when it comes to this kinda thing - Iggy was busting my balls BIG TIME the other day telling me what kind of a builder am I and I don't know how to wire a simple windlass on a boat! Imagine the nerve on that guy oh my goodness he was ripping into me I almost started crying my feelings were so hurt! lol :D J/K

So Denny, few questions -

1) I'm assuming the item in that picture with the chain coming out of it is the solenoid? It almost looks like the windlass itself but I know that's on top of the bow and is the stainless steel motor that pulls the chain and rode, correct?

2) What is the other item with the electrical connections to it on the right? Is that just another part of the solenoid just detached?

3) what is that black board that you mounted the solenoid on made of? Looks like some type of black leather covering a board?

Thanks for taking the time to do all this I really appreciate it. Hopefully this will help others as well as myself.

The windless is a 2 piece unit, one half is outside, and that is the shinny part you see on the deck.

The black part with the chain coming out of it is the motor.

The other piece with the wires attached is the solenoid.

The other large black piece is 3/4 inch star board, to reinforce the deck.

As far as where to mount the solenoid, I was told to mount it close to the motor, so I did.

Mine is in my anchor locker, but my is inside my cabin, so I am able to air it out, so moisture is not an issue for me.

Denny.

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The windless is a 2 piece unit, one half is outside, and that is the shinny part you see on the deck.

The black part with the chain coming out of it is the motor.

The other piece with the wires attached is the solenoid.

The other large black piece is 3/4 inch star board, to reinforce the deck.

As far as where to mount the solenoid, I was told to mount it close to the motor, so I did.

Mine is in my anchor locker, but my is inside my cabin, so I am able to air it out, so moisture is not an issue for me.

Denny.

:clapsmiley:

This is exactly how things need to be explained to me, piece by piece with easy and clear descriptions as if I'm 8 years old. Seriously, it's perfect, Denny. Thanks. Now I know the windlass is a 2-part unit which I never knew. I always thought the stainless steel part on the deck was the whole thing in one, including the motor but looks like there's another half. The dirty, not so clean and shiny half that does all the hard work. Makes total sense. I'm very grateful you're doing all this, Denny.

It's interesting because I need to do almost exactly what you did with that black, starboard piece. The one I have to put in is almost identical in size, cut and location and I need to fasten it to the bow tip just like you did here in this picture. Can you explain what you did for fastening all those bolts and nuts? What is under that where there 5 bolts are fastened to? Did you glass a piece of wood onto the hull and run those bolts through it?

0809141652a_zps7cdb86a4.jpg

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Hahaha, I know you did. :)

This came from Roy today, from Anchorlift Norway. He's such a nice guy and speaks Norwegian English. Please let me know what you guys think.

For solenoid you must mount somewhere dry, not inside the anchor locker or near the windlass.

1, near the helm if a natural place there 2, near battery and battery main switch.

In my boat I have the solenoid in the engine room where I also have the battery and battery switch.

The positive heavy cables goes from battery switch, the negative cable goes from battery or ground plate to solenoid and from solenoid to windlass.

Control cable goes from solenoid to helm panel and from helm panel to switch near the windlass.

I have no idea what he's talking about. Which battery switch is he referring to when he says the heavy positive cables go from it? He's obviously not talking about hooking it up directly to the battery, right? He's not talking about any circuit breaker so his layout is different than Denny's, I think. Not sure what to do except let him make up all the runs and send me a diagram and connect it the way he says to do it.

Sorry, but it does make sence other than the ground plate. He might be thinking that you already know that a breaker is a must have. Anything coming off the battery (other than starting) & a buss, must be fused or have a breaker. Its common sence in wiring.

Down load the manual on the model windless you are going to install. That alone will answer more questions for you.

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The windless is a 2 piece unit, one half is outside, and that is the shinny part you see on the deck.

The black part with the chain coming out of it is the motor.

The other piece with the wires attached is the solenoid.

The other large black piece is 3/4 inch star board, to reinforce the deck.

As far as where to mount the solenoid, I was told to mount it close to the motor, so I did.

Mine is in my anchor locker, but my is inside my cabin, so I am able to air it out, so moisture is not an issue for me.

Denny.

You might not need starboard. How thick is the deck already? Is the windless an option for your boat? If so, than it should be thick enough.

OH!! You should use dielectric grease on all your connections. This will keep then from rusting up on you.

Were you mount the solenoid as far as distance goes does not matter. What does matter is the "run if feet" of the wire. Again, the windless manual will go into this. But, the longer the run, the heaver the wire you will need.

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Sorry, but it does make sence other than the ground plate. He might be thinking that you already know that a breaker is a must have. Anything coming off the battery (other than starting) & a buss, must be fused or have a breaker. Its common sence in wiring.

So do I need to tell him that I don't have a breaker for this windlass and that I need a fuse?

Should I install the buss first? Would that make life much easier?

I'm installing the solenoid in that starboard cabin storage space in front of the helm. I figured that would be closer to the anchor locker and in a nice, dry place. I'll make a protective cover for it so nothing in the storage bumps into it. It'll end up being about 7ft away from the anchor locker (straight run) on the inner hull wall. That should work yes? The gauge wiring is probably why he's asking for all the measurements so he can see what size wire to make plus the lengths.

No, windlass was not an option for this boat and don't forget this is not a top of the deck windlass roller, it's cut out into the bow so it comes right into the anchor locker under the bow ladder which is why I need to install that same (almost exact) piece of starboard like Denny did to secure the stainless steel part of the windlass motor. I'm actually using 5/4 Azek board because it's a material I'm very familiar with (also less expensive than starboard) also made of PVC and very strong.

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You need a ignition proof breaker. A buss is not a bad thing to add as we talked about. Personaly, I would add one.

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:clapsmiley:

This is exactly how things need to be explained to me, piece by piece with easy and clear descriptions as if I'm 8 years old. Seriously, it's perfect, Denny. Thanks. Now I know the windlass is a 2-part unit which I never knew. I always thought the stainless steel part on the deck was the whole thing in one, including the motor but looks like there's another half. The dirty, not so clean and shiny half that does all the hard work. Makes total sense. I'm very grateful you're doing all this, Denny.

It's interesting because I need to do almost exactly what you did with that black, starboard piece. The one I have to put in is almost identical in size, cut and location and I need to fasten it to the bow tip just like you did here in this picture. Can you explain what you did for fastening all those bolts and nuts? What is under that where there 5 bolts are fastened to? Did you glass a piece of wood onto the hull and run those bolts through it?

0809141652a_zps7cdb86a4.jpg

What you are looking at is the underside of my deck where the roller plate and the windless are mounted.

That piece of starboard is about 30in long by 12in wide, I needed it to strengthen my deck.

The 5 bolts are holding my roller plate on.

Denny.

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Ah, ok, I see. That makes a lot more sense now. That's the bottom side of the starboard with the bolts anchoring the roller itself.

But you still didn't say how you fastened the starboard to the hull right at the pointy end of the bow, there, Denny? Is it just pinched to the fiberglass via the bolts? That's what it looks like. If so, that's brilliant, no need for any glue or glass or fasteners into the hull to hold that board in place.

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The roller plate and the windless bolts are what is holding the starboard in place, no need for glue.

One thing that I will stress is to make the hole that you cut in your boat a fuss larger then the opening in the windless that your anchor line goes through. Also that you sand it smooth, because as it happened to me your anchor line will hang up on it.

The other thing you might notice is that because your anchor line is new, it may slip a little when you first try to retrieve it.

After it has been in the water and the newness is gone, it will be fine.

Another thing I did was every 50ft I painted my line with red paint, so I would know how much line I had out.

I also painted a spot on my chain.

When it came through the second roller, I knew that my anchor was just about to break the surface, and I could baby it in.

Denny.

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The roller plate and the windless bolts are what is holding the starboard in place, no need for glue.

One thing that I will stress is to make the hole that you cut in your boat a fuss larger then the opening in the windless that your anchor line goes through. Also that you sand it smooth, because as it happened to me your anchor line will hang up on it.

The other thing you might notice is that because your anchor line is new, it may slip a little when you first try to retrieve it.

After it has been in the water and the newness is gone, it will be fine.

Another thing I did was every 50ft I painted my line with red paint, so I would know how much line I had out.

I also painted a spot on my chain.

When it came through the second roller, I knew that my anchor was just about to break the surface, and I could baby it in.

Denny.

Great advice, Denny, Thanks. The last part makes total sense about marking the line to know when it's ready to break the surface. Yeah, you don't want that hunk of steel swinging around rapidly before it gets back into its slot.

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The roller plate and the windless bolts are what is holding the starboard in place, no need for glue.

One thing that I will stress is to make the hole that you cut in your boat a fuss larger then the opening in the windless that your anchor line goes through. Also that you sand it smooth, because as it happened to me your anchor line will hang up on it.

The other thing you might notice is that because your anchor line is new, it may slip a little when you first try to retrieve it.

After it has been in the water and the newness is gone, it will be fine.

Another thing I did was every 50ft I painted my line with red paint, so I would know how much line I had out.

I also painted a spot on my chain.

When it came through the second roller, I knew that my anchor was just about to break the surface, and I could baby it in.

Denny.

Did you use your anchor a lot this season? We put about 140 hours on the boat lol but a lot of it was cruising and the only time I really need to use the new windlass anchor is if we've decided to stay on the hook in the sun for a few hours or if we've found a great spot to fish and I don't want to drift a lot. My goal is to be able to easily anchor in 100ft of water so I've been meaning to ask you if you use your Anchorlift a lot this year and if you had any problems with it? Thx.

EDIT: Instead of reading the whole thread again, did you get the bow, foot switches too or jut the helm on? I only got the later but am thinking of getting a remote control if it's available to reach the bow instead of drilling 2 more effing holes for the foot switches.

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I have a "Power Wench". He name is Katherine....

Did you use your anchor a lot this season? We put about 140 hours on the boat lol but a lot of it was cruising and the only time I really need to use the new windlass anchor is if we've decided to stay on the hook in the sun for a few hours or if we've found a great spot to fish and I don't want to drift a lot. My goal is to be able to easily anchor in 100ft of water so I've been meaning to ask you if you use your Anchorlift a lot this year and if you had any problems with it? Thx.

EDIT: Instead of reading the whole thread again, did you get the bow, foot switches too or jut the helm on? I only got the later but am thinking of getting a remote control if it's available to reach the bow instead of drilling 2 more effing holes for the foot switches.

Glad to here you are up and running with your girl's new toy. Yes I used it a lot. Not a lot of running hours, but a lot of fishing. I probably had it up and down 50 times. And every time I did, I got a little smarter as to how to set it and how to retrieve it. I only have the helm switch, I thought about getting the remote switch, or making a hard wired hand held switch, instead of a foot switch. Like I said I got smarter, so for now I'm staying with only the helm switch. I have marked the anchor road, at different depths, so I know how much road is out in relation to the water depth.

My water depths are no wheres near yours. Do you know how much line you need to set an anchor in 100ft. of water, with a ratio of 7 to 1.

My deep water is 35ft.

Lets say I'm in 20ft. of water, I will let out 25 to 30ft of road, line up my stern with the direction that the boat will drift to, and put it into reverse, with a little gas, this will line up my anchor. Then idling in reverse I will let out the amount of road that I want. When it is out, I will then give it a hard serge and set the anchor.

When I retrieve it I have the chain painted to a depth that will put the anchor just below the surface of the water. I put the boat in reverse with a little gas, this will clean the anchor and align it so it will seat without having to climb up on the bow and turning it if it is not lined up right. For me it is pretty much, push the button and it goes down, push it again and it comes up.

At my age it and my auto inflatable life jacket from Bass Pro are the 2 best pieces of safety equipment that I have. Denny.

IMG_1469_zpsvbsanzeo.jpg

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Glad to here you are up and running with your girl's new toy. Yes I used it a lot. Not a lot of running hours, but a lot of fishing. I probably had it up and down 50 times. And every time I did, I got a little smarter as to how to set it and how to retrieve it. I only have the helm switch, I thought about getting the remote switch, or making a hard wired hand held switch, instead of a foot switch. Like I said I got smarter, so for now I'm staying with only the helm switch. I have marked the anchor road, at different depths, so I know how much road is out in relation to the water depth.

My water depths are no wheres near yours. Do you know how much line you need to set an anchor in 100ft. of water, with a ratio of 7 to 1.

My deep water is 35ft.

Lets say I'm in 20ft. of water, I will let out 25 to 30ft of road, line up my stern with the direction that the boat will drift to, and put it into reverse, with a little gas, this will line up my anchor. Then idling in reverse I will let out the amount of road that I want. When it is out, I will then give it a hard serge and set the anchor.

When I retrieve it I have the chain painted to a depth that will put the anchor just below the surface of the water. I put the boat in reverse with a little gas, this will clean the anchor and align it so it will seat without having to climb up on the bow and turning it if it is not lined up right. For me it is pretty much, push the button and it goes down, push it again and it comes up.

At my age it and my auto inflatable life jacket from Bass Pro are the 2 best pieces of safety equipment that I have. Denny.

IMG_1469_zpsvbsanzeo.jpg

That's awesome but small correction and most likely my fault for not explaining it correctly, but I haven't installed the windlass just yet, so you know. She's all stored away and I won't be dealing with her until I pull her out early April provided we don't have a blistering winter and that will be the first thing I do. I found a great stainless steel guy who's actually going to modify the bow roller I got because he said it's not good to just bend those flanges as they could find their way back and that wouldn't be good once they are bolted into the boat. So he explained this terrific method that will allow the SS to bend easily, cool and then polish it to look better than what it looks like now so I'm happy to get that going and ready by next month.

I have close to 500ft of line and the anchoring at 100ft is only to help control the drifting over one of these great plateaus we plan to visit this summer, but most of the time we're in 60-75 or even lower depths. The 100 would be the maximum and I'm wondering it you can add additional line once you come to the end of the rode on the windlass, but something tells me that's a scary proposition unless you have the line secured prior to loosening the 250 feet I will be having on it.

I think Anchorlift supplies a hard-wired controller that you can take with you from the helm or anywhere safely stored to the bow. I like that idea, Denny, very much so because honestly, unless there is someone competent to watch the anchor coming up (especially out of the water, I prefer to be at the bow watching it than at he helm. Dropping it from the helm is fine but retrieving it is better IMO at the bow but no foot switches if I can avoid it. Good call on the hard wired controller.

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That's awesome but small correction and most likely my fault for not explaining it correctly, but I haven't installed the windlass just yet, so you know. She's all stored away and I won't be dealing with her until I pull her out early April provided we don't have a blistering winter and that will be the first thing I do. I found a great stainless steel guy who's actually going to modify the bow roller I got because he said it's not good to just bend those flanges as they could find their way back and that wouldn't be good once they are bolted into the boat. So he explained this terrific method that will allow the SS to bend easily, cool and then polish it to look better than what it looks like now so I'm happy to get that going and ready by next month.

I have close to 500ft of line and the anchoring at 100ft is only to help control the drifting over one of these great plateaus we plan to visit this summer, but most of the time we're in 60-75 or even lower depths. The 100 would be the maximum and I'm wondering it you can add additional line once you come to the end of the rode on the windlass, but something tells me that's a scary proposition unless you have the line secured prior to loosening the 250 feet I will be having on it.

I think Anchorlift supplies a hard-wired controller that you can take with you from the helm or anywhere safely stored to the bow. I like that idea, Denny, very much so because honestly, unless there is someone competent to watch the anchor coming up (especially out of the water, I prefer to be at the bow watching it than at he helm. Dropping it from the helm is fine but retrieving it is better IMO at the bow but no foot switches if I can avoid it. Good call on the hard wired controller.

Calm seas, 5 to 1 should hold. I would not untie the bitter end of your road, Murphy's Law might kick in.

Why do you have to reconfigure your rollers?

If you mark your chain, you will know how much you have left before the anchor hits the first roller.

For me climbing on my deck in 2 to 3's is no fun. That is why I developed a system that lets me do it all at the helm.

90% of my boating is done alone, my legs are a little shakier then they were 20 years ago. Denny.

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Calm seas, 5 to 1 should hold. I would not untie the bitter end of your road, Murphy's Law might kick in.

Why do you have to reconfigure your rollers?

If you mark your chain, you will know how much you have left before the anchor hits the first roller.

For me climbing on my deck in 2 to 3's is no fun. That is why I developed a system that lets me do it all at the helm.

90% of my boating is done alone, my legs are a little shakier then they were 20 years ago. Denny.

The flange on the nose roller if configured for a 277 ssx and that has a slightly sharper contour at the top where I'll be cutting the bow/keel to install it, so I need to sort of flatten out the flanges by about 3/8" and I got one side worked up pretty good and close but it was way too much work than what I want to do + it's cheap for this guy to do it professionally and even polish it.

I'm with you on not unhooking the end of the line off the windlass to add additional line but that was just a thought in case a rare scenario presented itself. I think either a wired or wireless remote is something to look into for sure.

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